mFT to FF and/or potentially back to mFT? (or 2 systems 2 jobs?)

Don't forget time.

Are you going to buy a whole set of FF lenses at once ...or will it some years to build the set?

Remember the original Canon 5D? 12.5 Megapixels, 3200 iso maximum (when extended).

For each sensor size, the standards keep advancing. Only start a move to 35mm FF if the quality of todays 35mm FF is not good enough for you, and you need the increased quality that will be on offer by the time you have migrated.

Todays 35mm FF quality, is only the quality of tomorrows m43 systems.
Don't assume that the technological progress we've seen in the past will continue at the same pace. The sensors of today are remarkably close to perfect.
From what I've read, the only tech on the horizon that could yield a substantial improvement is the organic sensor being developed by Panasonic (and Oly? Fuji?), which could realize about one stop more sensitivity. It might also deliver a global shutter, which would eliminate rolling shutter and enable use of flash with e-shutter. This is still probably at least two years away from commercial application.
 
Don't forget time.

Are you going to buy a whole set of FF lenses at once ...or will it some years to build the set?

Remember the original Canon 5D? 12.5 Megapixels, 3200 iso maximum (when extended).

For each sensor size, the standards keep advancing. Only start a move to 35mm FF if the quality of todays 35mm FF is not good enough for you, and you need the increased quality that will be on offer by the time you have migrated.

Todays 35mm FF quality, is only the quality of tomorrows m43 systems.
Don't assume that the technological progress we've seen in the past will continue at the same pace. The sensors of today are remarkably close to perfect.
From what I've read, the only tech on the horizon that could yield a substantial improvement is the organic sensor being developed by Panasonic (and Oly? Fuji?), which could realize about one stop more sensitivity. It might also deliver a global shutter, which would eliminate rolling shutter and enable use of flash with e-shutter. This is still probably at least two years away from commercial application.
 
In terms of general sensors (including the best of FF), yes, they are pretty close. However, in context to MFT, there's still plenty of tech that have yet to hit most MFT cameras (GH5S might be first one to have it): BSI, dual gain, copper wiring.
I think there's still the unknown factor of graphene. They can make nearly everything out of it, including the wiring. It's very conductive so it will be interesting if they can get it into cameras.
 
Don't assume that the technological progress we've seen in the past will continue at the same pace. The sensors of today are remarkably close to perfect.
Don't think so.

Leica had practically demonstrated in their B&W camera years ago that just remove Bayer out, the base ISO increases from 100 to 320.

Current sensor's QE is also far from 90%. Noise is still being the plaque.

Another consideration. Sensor chip can not work alone. The supporting chips are not less important than it. However, it's "out of sight, out of mind".

.......

Even if all the chips (sensor included) are perfect, the software is not. It slowly crawls, can't speed up. Proper and good softwarse make different.

Btw, softwares include those that being embedded in the chips too.

..

If you had shot raw, you may observe that processing the old raw with new (camera engine) may give you more DR, less noise, better color, etc. Software development require sciences and lot of imaginations (day dreams may be included :-) )
 
Im sure this has been beaten to death, im curious if anyone has already been down this path already.

Ive had this nagging thought, partially GAS, partially thinking about the future that I shouldnt be investing in mFT glass and should be trying to move towards another format.

After spending a ton of time reading about equivalence, mFT has its merits, at least for tele and the corresponding glass when it comes to size and weight, but I was just looking at the A7 II/III a few days ago and for $3300, you can pick up a A7III + 24-105 F4. you get all the benefits of full frame, but its basically the size of an EM5.2+12-100 F4 and slightly heavier.

Maybe im misinterpreting things, but based on this equivalence comparison, FF has a big advantage

• 6D (FF) at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/200, ISO 1600
• D500 (1.5x) at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• 80D (1.6x) at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• EM5II (mFT) at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 400

2 aperture stops and 2 ISO stops for the same area of view.

http://www.josephjamesphotography.com/equivalence

Do any of you have a FF for shorter FL and mFT for more telephoto options?
If you go Canon, especially the 6D, you are NOT getting 2 stops on ISO performance. You get 1 stop over an EM5ii, and zero extra stops over an EM1ii:

http://www.photonstophotos.net/Char...s OM-D E-M1 Mark II,Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II

Also, the 80D gives you zero performance IQ-wise over the EM5ii.
That graph is about DR { and a very specific definition of it } nothing to do with noise if you look at the 6D the noise performance is competitive with other FF cameras its problems is low ISO DR

d0a567d4b4944ed98fb1385af13991bb.jpg

Actually with regards to the 80D you do gain markedly with regards to base ISO shadow DR , due mainly to the too high base ISO we are forced into with m43 { which boils my blood :-) } . For someone shooting for maximum image quality using base ISO which makes up the vast majority of what I shoot the advantage is very real

80D VS E-M1II DR

5d8c79d066964eea9a8f8f0737fe1d96.jpg

With regards to high ISO I agree 100% with you, there is zero gain with the 80D

467b3aed70bb41189e350fa79884643f.jpg

--
Jim Stirling
“Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.” John Adams
 
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Im sure this has been beaten to death, im curious if anyone has already been down this path already.

Ive had this nagging thought, partially GAS, partially thinking about the future that I shouldnt be investing in mFT glass and should be trying to move towards another format.

After spending a ton of time reading about equivalence, mFT has its merits, at least for tele and the corresponding glass when it comes to size and weight, but I was just looking at the A7 II/III a few days ago and for $3300, you can pick up a A7III + 24-105 F4. you get all the benefits of full frame, but its basically the size of an EM5.2+12-100 F4 and slightly heavier.

Maybe im misinterpreting things, but based on this equivalence comparison, FF has a big advantage

• 6D (FF) at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/200, ISO 1600
• D500 (1.5x) at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• 80D (1.6x) at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• EM5II (mFT) at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 400

2 aperture stops and 2 ISO stops for the same area of view.

http://www.josephjamesphotography.com/equivalence

Do any of you have a FF for shorter FL and mFT for more telephoto options?
you've got it right. Your 2 stops statement really says everything you need to know comparing m43 to FF.
Really? Unless you are saying that this is the only advantage of FF, I beg to differ. What about size, weight, ergonomics etc?
The size weight and ergonomics depends very much on the camera lens combo you choose. Where you can find a m43 lens fast enough or a FF lens slow enough to be equivalent the lens sizes are very similar
The 12-100 f4 on m43 would equate to a 24-200 f8 in FF
From a depth of field perspective, yes. The maximum available aperture is still f4 from an exposure perspective. I think this needs making clear to avoid confusion.
Robbie this has been explained literally hundreds of times here and in numerous articles including a very good one from DPreview. It is not just DOF the critical factor is total light gathered.The end result an image is what matters a P&S with a tiny sensor would give you the same shutter speed aperture combo at a given ISO as an E-M1 II , however just as with m43 and FF the end result is not the same.

I really wish that every incorrect statement about equivalence made by the defenders of the faith here . Was automatically transferred to the Photographic Science and Technology Forum where a wide selection of genuinely expert posters would quickly show the errors
. Going the other direction to equal the FF 24-105 f4 on m43 the lens would need to be a 12-52.5 f2
...to obtain the same DOF.
And gather the same total light
Don't get confused by those that try to throw a bunch of unnecessary or just plain wrong factors into the equation.
Quite!
It really isn't complicated at all.
I'm sorry, but this does require an understanding of how different sensor sizes accept light and therefore impact noise as well as affecting things such as lens size. If it were all that easy to understand, folks around here wouldn't get so hot under the collar about it.
It is extremely basic if you want to create equivalent images . You just need the following , same diagonal AOV lens , same DOF and the important one same total light gathered. The reasons so many are rabidly against it is that they perceive it as some criticism of their gear choices

I have the Sony 24-105mm F/4 and it would do the exact same job as a 12-52.5mm F/2 , that is same diagonal AOV, same DOF control , and same total light gathered { assuming you need to raise the FF ISO , as opposed to using a slower shutter speed }
Also remember you can always crop a larger sensor down to the size of a smaller one. A FF camera can have the exact same FOV of m43 (or APSC) for any given FL any time it wants to. Just use a correspondingly sized area of the sensor.

In the end the camera system and how it interacts with you is very important, but it is helpful to know how to correctly compare systems using different size sensors.
Quite.
Just another piece of info to make a intelligent buying decision.

Good luck.
 
Im sure this has been beaten to death, im curious if anyone has already been down this path already.

Ive had this nagging thought, partially GAS, partially thinking about the future that I shouldnt be investing in mFT glass and should be trying to move towards another format.

After spending a ton of time reading about equivalence, mFT has its merits, at least for tele and the corresponding glass when it comes to size and weight, but I was just looking at the A7 II/III a few days ago and for $3300, you can pick up a A7III + 24-105 F4. you get all the benefits of full frame, but its basically the size of an EM5.2+12-100 F4 and slightly heavier.
You're comparing the size and weight of a 200mm EFL lens to a 105mm EFL lens. The Oly has almost twice the reach. How big is the Sony lens that can match it?
The Sony 24-240mm is only 2.5mm longer :-)
Is it a constant f4? If not, apples to oranges.
Oh please save that nonsense
No need to be rude.
for the gullible newcomers, as you well know a 24-240mm FF F/3.5 - 6.3 will give the exact same AOV , DOF control and total light gathering as a m43 12-120mm F1.8-3.2 . So you are right to be apples to apples it would need to be a constant F/8.
I do know that.
And yet you are still happy to promote nonsense

""Is it a constant f4? If not, apples to oranges.""

My "apples to oranges "comparison would share the same diagonal AOV, offer the same DOF control and most importantly gather the same total light
Why don't you pop over to the Photographic Science and Technology Forum with your F/4 on m43 compared to F/4 on FF opinion and see how that works out
Take a look at the original post. The OP was comparing two constant f4 lenses. That's all.
Perhaps instead of promoting disinformation you could have explained why F4 lenses on different formats have very different results
Just because equivalence discussions have been all but banned from here does not change reality :-) The fly in the ointment being that the Sony is by all accounts not very good though I don't know if it gets better at F/8 . Again hands down I would still take the Oly
Though I would much rather have the Oly :-) As I mentioned above you can shoot the 24-105mm in APS mode on my A7Rii and get an 18mp file at a FF effective 157.5mm
The Oly gives you 200mm EFL, so apples to oranges again.
I know I was just pointing out that the higher MP Sony camera allow more flexibility in cropping.
I know you were. And the comparison is still not apt.
Well I would take a 24-105mm FF F/4 at 42mp and stretched out to 157.5mm in 18mp APS mode over a FF equivalent 24-200mm F/8 at 20mp but each to their own :-)

Maybe im misinterpreting things, but based on this equivalence comparison, FF has a big advantage

• 6D (FF) at 50mm, f/5.6, 1/200, ISO 1600
• D500 (1.5x) at 33mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• 80D (1.6x) at 31mm, f/3.5, 1/200, ISO 640
• EM5II (mFT) at 25mm, f/2.8, 1/200, ISO 400

2 aperture stops and 2 ISO stops for the same area of view.

http://www.josephjamesphotography.com/equivalence

Do any of you have a FF for shorter FL and mFT for more telephoto options?
I switched from 35mm- and APS-format to MFT four years ago. I'm not going back. Here's how I got there.

How to Get Small - Part Four - Why I Switched to Micro Four Thirds Cameras

FWIW, I shoot corporate events and portraits professionally and have done a lot of personal travel and scenic photography in recent years. Increase travel, lots of hiking, and a case of bursitis in my right shoulder were the main reasons for switching, but I found lots of other reasons to stay with MFT.
 
You keep posting those ridiculous shadow boosting comparisons.

To explain again to people reading and who will be mis-led by these poor DPR tests. The 80D is set to ISO 100, 1/160 and F5.6, so it has a physically larger aperture setting and a longer shutterspeed. This means it starts off with two more stops of "total light".

Once you boost both 5 stops you are basically comparing the Olympus boosted 7 stops to the Canon Boosted 5 stops.

When you look at the comparison with the Olympus boosted 3 stops, or even 4 stops vs the Canon it really looks much better for the Olympus, and this is no surprise, because we have equaled the demand on the sensor.

It would actually look even better if you were to expose the Olympus at ISO 200 1/160 f5.6 then boost 4 stops and check shadow noise. Even letting the Canon have a larger aperture size, the Olympus would probably look better.
 
Even sooner.... how about OPF CMOS sensors?
 
Don't assume that the technological progress we've seen in the past will continue at the same pace. The sensors of today are remarkably close to perfect.
Don't think so.

Leica had practically demonstrated in their B&W camera years ago that just remove Bayer out, the base ISO increases from 100 to 320.
Yes, if you can capture the three components at each location in place of the Bayer, you capture the same light currently captured by a 35mm FF with a sensor the size of m43.
Current sensor's QE is also far from 90%. Noise is still being the plaque.

Another consideration. Sensor chip can not work alone. The supporting chips are not less important than it. However, it's "out of sight, out of mind".

.......

Even if all the chips (sensor included) are perfect, the software is not. It slowly crawls, can't speed up. Proper and good softwarse make different.

Btw, softwares include those that being embedded in the chips too.

..

If you had shot raw, you may observe that processing the old raw with new (camera engine) may give you more DR, less noise, better color, etc. Software development require sciences and lot of imaginations (day dreams may be included :-) )

--
Flashes of my Memory.
 
Damn.... I need to keep up!
 
You keep posting those ridiculous shadow boosting comparisons.
It is only ridiculous if using m43 with the latest Canon APS sensor and particularly any of the APS cameras using Sony sensors it is simply a non-issue as there are no severe penalties for doing so . And yes I agree of course it is an extreme example to show just how big a difference is possible. I do not need to push shadows quite this far but in real life use , with landscapes I often need to push shadows to balance an exposure due to the typically large DR of the scene
To explain again to people reading and who will be mis-led by these poor DPR tests. The 80D is set to ISO 100, 1/160 and F5.6, so it has a physically larger aperture setting and a longer shutterspeed. This means it starts off with two more stops of "total light".
If you bother to read before attacking I specifically stated that m43 is handicapped by the too high base ISO believe me I have been lusting after a much lower true base ISO m43 camera for years .

" with regards to base ISO shadow DR , due mainly to the too high base ISO we are forced into with m43 { which boils my blood }"

If you are shooting for maximum image quality in any format you will be when possible using their respective base ISO . I shoot whenever possible at 100 ISO on Sony FF, at 64 ISO on my D810 meanwhile I am forced to use 200 on my GX8 and GH4
Once you boost both 5 stops you are basically comparing the Olympus boosted 7 stops to the Canon Boosted 5 stops.
Again the cameras are using their respective base ISO settings , which is exactly how I would use them in real life. If m43 had a true base ISO of 50 the gap with APS would be closed , with 25 ISO the gap with FF would be closed . We cannot avoid the current size disadvantage in sensor size , however we could certainly stop exacerbating it by using a higher base ISO than larger sensors.
When you look at the comparison with the Olympus boosted 3 stops, or even 4 stops vs the Canon it really looks much better for the Olympus, and this is no surprise, because we have equaled the demand on the sensor.

It would actually look even better if you were to expose the Olympus at ISO 200 1/160 f5.6 then boost 4 stops and check shadow noise. Even letting the Canon have a larger aperture size, the Olympus would probably look better.
I have made my point about shooting at the respective base ISO to achieve the best results in any system. This is perfectly reasonable and hardly controversial. I would love a m43 camera with a true 50 heck even 25 base ISO { if they throw in a few more MP better still :-) } . We have an excellent selection of fast lenses and the best IBIS on the market available to us so a lower base ISO would be easy to take advantages of certainly for most scenarios I shoot

I am sorry that again offence is being taken for what is a not unreasonable point. I can easily see the consequences of the 200 base ISO using my own gear. I will be making no further comments regarding this

--
Jim Stirling
“Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.” John Adams
 
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You keep posting those ridiculous shadow boosting comparisons.
It is only ridiculous if using m43 with the latest Canon APS sensor and particularly any of the APS cameras using Sony sensors it is simply a non-issue as there are no severe penalties for doing so . And yes I agree of course it is an extreme example to show just how big a difference
To explain again to people reading and who will be mis-led by these poor DPR tests. The 80D is set to ISO 100, 1/160 and F5.6, so it has a physically larger aperture setting and a longer shutterspeed. This means it starts off with two more stops of "total light".
If you bother to read before attacking I specifically stated that m43 is handicapped by the too high base ISO believe me I have been lusting after a much lower true base ISO m43 camera for years .If you are shooting for maximum image quality in any format you will be when possible using their respective base ISO . I shoot whenever possible at 100 ISO on Sony FF, at 64 ISO on my D810 meanwhile I am forced to use 200 on my GX8 and GH4
Actually the EM1.2 has a base ISO of 64 if you care so much about shadow noise.
Once you boost both 5 stops you are basically comparing the Olympus boosted 7 stops to the Canon Boosted 5 stops.
Again the cameras are using their respective base ISO settings , which is exactly how I would use them in real life. If m43 had a true base ISO of 50 the gap with APS would be closed , with 25ISO the gap with FF would be closed . We cannot avoid the current size disadvantage ins sensor size , however we could certainly stop exacerbating it by using a higher base ISO than larger sensors
When you look at the comparison with the Olympus boosted 3 stops, or even 4 stops vs the Canon it really looks much better for the Olympus, and this is no surprise, because we have equaled the demand on the sensor.

It would actually look even better if you were to expose the Olympus at ISO 200 1/160 f5.6 then boost 4 stops and check shadow noise. Even letting the Canon have a larger aperture size, the Olympus would probably look better.
I have made my point about shooting at the respective base ISO to achieve the best results in any system. This is perfectly reasonable and hardly controversial. I would love a m43 camera with a true 50 heck even 25 base ISO { if they throw in a few more MP better still :-) } . We have an excellent selection of fast lenses and the best IBIS on the market available to us so a lower base ISO would be easy to take advantages of certainly for most scenarios I shoot

I am sorry that again offence is being taken for what is a fair point. I can easily see the consequences of the 200 base ISO using my own gear.
Here is a better comparison using your cameras of choice.

Shadow noise with the EM1.2 & 80D at ISO 100 both boosted 4 stops:

a86a2a08d05a4a4087869eab72a355a5.jpg



So, again, the comparison you keep posting is completely misleading, even when looking at reality, say ISO 200 vs ISO 100

This noise doesn't look anything like the DPR tests does it? But this is their own samples ISO 200 vs ISO 100 shadows boosted to 100% and Exposure boosted 2 stops
This noise doesn't look anything like the DPR tests does it? But this is their own samples ISO 200 vs ISO 100 shadows boosted to 100% and Exposure boosted 2 stops

But what about highlights?

Well, it is quite clear in this ISO 200 vs ISO 100 test the Olympus has better highlight rolloff which will mean better highlight recovery or the ability to overexpose the shot to help the shadow noise.
Well, it is quite clear in this ISO 200 vs ISO 100 test the Olympus has better highlight rolloff which will mean better highlight recovery or the ability to overexpose the shot to help the shadow noise.

Considering you signature you are sticking to the base iSO argument it seems without having ever checked yourself to see how well ISO 64 performs. The truth is you get about the same DR in total, with much better shadows. So it is an intelligent extended ISO and seems to perform as the box states.
--
Jim Stirling
“Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passion, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.” John Adams
 

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You keep posting those ridiculous shadow boosting comparisons.
It is only ridiculous if using m43 with the latest Canon APS sensor and particularly any of the APS cameras using Sony sensors it is simply a non-issue as there are no severe penalties for doing so . And yes I agree of course it is an extreme example to show just how big a difference is possible. I do not need to push shadows quite this far but in real life use , with landscapes I often need to push shadows to balance an exposure due to the typically large DR of the scene
To explain again to people reading and who will be mis-led by these poor DPR tests. The 80D is set to ISO 100, 1/160 and F5.6, so it has a physically larger aperture setting and a longer shutterspeed. This means it starts off with two more stops of "total light".
If you bother to read before attacking I specifically stated that m43 is handicapped by the too high base ISO believe me I have been lusting after a much lower true base ISO m43 camera for years .

" with regards to base ISO shadow DR , due mainly to the too high base ISO we are forced into with m43 { which boils my blood }"

If you are shooting for maximum image quality in any format you will be when possible using their respective base ISO . I shoot whenever possible at 100 ISO on Sony FF, at 64 ISO on my D810 meanwhile I am forced to use 200 on my GX8 and GH4
Not following this logic. When you need base ISO, wouldn't that be in a situation where highlights were the issue? And why not compare extended (which as pointed out above shows comparable results)?

What he says is true: the results in the shadows are because your comparison gives 2 stops more light to the FF sensor (before even factoring in the crop factor), not because of ISO and doesn't properly reflect the dynamic range. This needs to be pointed out very clearly or it's extremely misleading.
 
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This post provoked me to do some math,... And, I was also thinking about this topic a while ago, mainly regarding low-light photography.

Assumptions for calculations:
  1. both sensors have got same resolution,
  2. image light gathering ability scales linearly with surface area of a pixel,
  3. IQ is same for same amount of light gathered for each of the sensors.
Therefore, FF has got 2x bigger width and 2x bigger height. That makes it able to gather 4x more light per pixel.
for the gullible newcomers, as you well know a 24-240mm FF F/3.5 - 6.3 will give the exact same AOV , DOF control and total light gathering as a m43 12-120mm F1.8-3.2 . So you are right to be apples to apples it would need to be a constant F/8.
I do know that.
And yet you are still happy to promote nonsense

""Is it a constant f4? If not, apples to oranges.""

My "apples to oranges "comparison would share the same diagonal AOV, offer the same DOF control and most importantly gather the same total light
Why don't you pop over to the Photographic Science and Technology Forum with your F/4 on m43 compared to F/4 on FF opinion and see how that works out
Take a look at the original post. The OP was comparing two constant f4 lenses. That's all.
Perhaps instead of promoting disinformation you could have explained why F4 lenses on different formats have very different results
Scenario 1: keep same AoV and DoF

I have framed my shoot perfectly (keep AoV), and I can't lower DoF, because some subjects, or parts of subjects, would get blurred. For my "current" scene on MFT, it is f/4.0 and 14mm (28mm effective).

So, with FF I would have to take a shoot with f/8.0 and 28mm FL to maintain same DoF. As I have a twice smaller apperture (higher f-number), I have 4-times less amount of light passed on sensor. But, as sensor is capable of gathering 4-times more light, then it's a tie regarding IQ, if assumptions apply.

Given the size of FF cameras, MFT wins!

Scenario 2: want the fastest shutter speed, and the lowest ISO, possible

I'm shooting a moving subject in low light. I don't need a big DoF, as practically current shutter speed introduces already a bit of blur to the moving subject, and also very high ISO adds another blur (caused by post-processing needed, because of noise). My shoot is taken with f/3.5, SS 1/160, ISO 3200.

So, with equivalent FF lens I would have more DoF (don't care now), with f/3.5. But, FF gathers 4-times more light, that means, I can lower ISO to 800 to achieve same exposure. Quite a hell less of a noise!

Or, I can use faster shutter speed 1/250 and use ISO 1250 to achieve same exposure. Less motion blur, and still much less amount of a noise.

In this scenario, FF definitely wins!
 
This post provoked me to do some math,... And, I was also thinking about this topic a while ago, mainly regarding low-light photography.

Assumptions for calculations:
  1. both sensors have got same resolution,
  2. image light gathering ability scales linearly with surface area of a pixel,
  3. IQ is same for same amount of light gathered for each of the sensors.
Therefore, FF has got 2x bigger width and 2x bigger height. That makes it able to gather 4x more light per pixel.
Same resolution isn't a good assumption, but it really doesn't make any difference in the calculations.
Scenario 1: keep same AoV and DoF

I have framed my shoot perfectly (keep AoV), and I can't lower DoF, because some subjects, or parts of subjects, would get blurred. For my "current" scene on MFT, it is f/4.0 and 14mm (28mm effective).

So, with FF I would have to take a shoot with f/8.0 and 28mm FL to maintain same DoF. As I have a twice smaller apperture (higher f-number), I have 4-times less amount of light passed on sensor. But, as sensor is capable of gathering 4-times more light, then it's a tie regarding IQ, if assumptions apply.

Given the size of FF cameras, MFT wins!
Completely agree.
Scenario 2: want the fastest shutter speed, and the lowest ISO, possible

I'm shooting a moving subject in low light. I don't need a big DoF, as practically current shutter speed introduces already a bit of blur to the moving subject, and also very high ISO adds another blur (caused by post-processing needed, because of noise). My shoot is taken with f/3.5, SS 1/160, ISO 3200.

So, with equivalent FF lens I would have more DoF (don't care now), with f/3.5. But, FF gathers 4-times more light, that means, I can lower ISO to 800 to achieve same exposure. Quite a hell less of a noise!

Or, I can use faster shutter speed 1/250 and use ISO 1250 to achieve same exposure. Less motion blur, and still much less amount of a noise.

In this scenario, FF definitely wins!
I think you meant to say the FF lens would have less DoF.

No, you can't lower the ISO without changing either the aperture or shutter speed. But because the FF gathered more light for the same parameters due to the longer FL, the noise at ISO 3200 will be less than for MFT.
 

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