Yes, it helps a lot! I need a fast/sharp 16mm lens for indoor/low light shooting, and was hoping someone would test it using Focus Magnifier (FM). I use DMF with FM 90% of the time with my Sony 70-300G lens for wildlife. I suppose I could do the same with the Sigma 16mm when shooting still subjects. If shooting indoors with moving people, I suppose I could be forced to use the 'Work Around' AF-C in those situations :-|
If anyone else could do the same test using AF-S with FM, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your time and testing of the lens, much appreciated!
AF-S with Focus Magnifier (where you place the cross-hair on the subject while in magnified view, then trigger AF) is 100% accurate on both the Sigma 30/1.4 and 16/1.4, at all apertures and focus distances I tested. Caveat - need enough contrast in order for it to focus at all, although same is true for all lenses in this mode.
My approach with this lens (and Sigma 30/1.4) is follows:
- AF-C by default (works 90% of time)
- If AF-C is hunting due to aperture too small etc, switch to AF-S. Usually I would already be outside the problem apertures so this is sufficient.
- If using EyeAF in AF-C and it hunts, I will switch to AF-S and use EyeAF at any aperture, as I have tested EyeAF is reliably accurate.
The above two settings cover 9% of the remaining 10%, so the below workarounds are quite rarely needed.
- If I am not using EyeAF and AF-C still hunts and it’s a problem aperture (eg for me, F1.6-F2 on 30/1.4 or F2.5-F2.8 on 16/1.4) OR if I want to use the LCD to focus rather than EVF, I switch to AF-S and use AF in Focus Mag.
- If in the above it cannot focus in AF in Focus Mag due to too low light / low contrast, OR Focus Mag is not practical as there is some subject movement,
I will either use AF-S with LCD to focus (if focus distance is close, pretty confident this is accurate), or as last resort (eg further away focus distance where LCD may be inaccurate) use a different aperture eg F2.2 instead of F2.5, or F3.2 instead of F2.8.