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Nikon d750 images not sharp

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dineshonline

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I think there might be something wrong with the camera or the lens or the user? Please see example attached.

This is consistent with images in every scenario if you look at the images 1:1.

Some help please this is driving me nuts.

7d58cb19d377483ba05a5a1fc2d78a30.jpg



2ec9a6843d2a48b79588cbc44a05e5ea.jpg



887727d80a38464d9c7d55866f4b0fe4.jpg
 
dineshonline said:
I think there might be something wrong with the camera or the lens or the user? Please see example attached.

This is consistent with images in every scenario if you look at the images 1:1.

Some help please this is driving me nuts.
Click to expand...
I see where you're using an 18-200. This is a DX lens and you're only using the center of the sensor. It's also not that great a lens.

You should get a full-frame lens for the camera for starters.
 
Hmm Images look fine without using the loupe tool to zoom in. Once you zoom in however, It looks like there is some heavy noise reduction being done on the images creating a bit of "mushiness," similar to what's seen in JPEGS from other brands/sensor sizers. Are these JPEGs straight out of camera or Raw files you edited yourself?

I'd suggest playing with the RAW files (assuming you have them) and seeing if adjusting sharpening and clarity settings improves them any. Alternatively, adjust the picture settings in camera and see if you can improve sharpness/reduce NR.

Cheers!
 
dineshonline said:
I think there might be something wrong with the camera or the lens or the user? Please see example attached.

This is consistent with images in every scenario if you look at the images 1:1.

Some help please this is driving me nuts.

887727d80a38464d9c7d55866f4b0fe4.jpg
Click to expand...
I agree with Leonard. Using an average super zoom DX lens on a FF camera is the major problem. Then using F20 at ISO 2500 on the second image is compounding the problem. F20 is destroying the detail even if the ISO would be low, and the ISO2500 just makes it worse.

The image above isn't too bad, it just needs some editing. I did some on the image shown below. At least this one was shot at a good aperture and ISO.



608d6b355b3b427996a0ccd9e2fdd326.jpg
 
Not too bad to me really. I see no lens artifacts and such. The softness at 1:1 looks like typical image processing to me. They didn't go for over sharp halo rich look. They could have used a smaller radius in the sharpening tool if they processed the images.
 
Pointing the camera towards the sun wont help you resolve more detail. Especially when you are shooting in DX mode with a lens that isn't known for being the sharpest.
 
dineshonline said:
I think there might be something wrong with the camera or the lens or the user? Please see example attached.
Click to expand...
User and lens.

No need for the ISO setting to be as high as they are. Rather, set ISO to base when shooting landscapes and leave it there. Or use Auto-ISO from base.

No need for f/20 in the second image. This will give lots of diffraction blur.

Try to avoid shooting into the sun like that.

It is not at all clear where you are focussing. Pick somethign that catces teh eye in eh foreground.

If you are using a DX lens on a 24MP FX camera, you are only using about 10.7 of its 24 MP. That particular DX lens isn't sharp either.

How are you holding your camera?
dineshonline said:
This is consistent with images in every scenario if you look at the images 1:1.
Click to expand...
Nothing looks really sharp at 1:1. Start by evaluating sharpness with the image filling the screen.
dineshonline said:
Some help please this is driving me nuts.
Click to expand...
 
In addition to what everyone else wrote, also add sharpening to your photos, either in-camera or preferably on the computer.
 
I would start with picture profile it is called If I recall. SO is this SD, or Neutral, vivid etc.

Any internal changes to change images shot

What AF mode are you using. AF-S or AF-C or manual focus.

What metering mode are you using.

One image ISO is 2500, I think that is a bit too high for daylight, but with no ND filter you may need that..

Is your exposure compensation at Zero?

Anyway. Before saying this is the camera or lens you need to be sure exposure is correct.

When you do this put the camera in full auto exposure and see what the camera says is correct.

If you are handholding shutter speed should be 1/the focal length as a start. the Reciprocal shutter speed rule

If still a problem you need a different D750 and lens combo to see whats what.

*** Last 99% of D750's had that shutter recall. Run your serial number on the nikon site. You can also test this by setting your D750 to 1/8000 sec, AF-C and rapid fire. Turn the camera off for like 15 min or so. Turn the camera on and press the shutter if it locks up it has the shutter recall.
 
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For an 18-200 lens these aren't really that bad, especially for landscape. Take a picture with something in it, e.g. a building which fills the frame and then judge sharpness.
 
Hi, first of all using your camera in DX mode with the 18-200 is the correct way to go with this combination. Second, the 18-200 isn't as bad as these folks are making out. I shot close to 100,000 images with it and the only real weakness is from 150-200mm at distance. From 18-24mm there is some easily correctable distortion but the lens can be very sharp from 18-150mm, critically sharp close up. It makes a good poor man's macro.

#3 is not a bad image and your settings make sense.

#2 is a total wash, figuratively and literally. You are shooting straight into the sun which by itself can destroy all contrast, introduce flare and blow highlights around it. Your image suffers from all of this. ISO 2500 at 1/60 and f/20 all work against each other. If you must shoot into the sun as in this image use base ISO, f/6-f/8 for depth of field and adjust your shutter speed to where you just avoid the "blinkies". You should be able to bring them up on your rear screen when reviewing by scrolling up with the multi-selector (D750 people correct me if I am wrong, not familiar with the operation of this camera).

Make sure you are using a lens hood! Mandatory with this kind of photo to cut down on interior reflections. The flare destroys contrast which is one of the major signals our brains use to define sharpness.

#1 suffers from the sun causing flare and ghosting (the streaks of light behind the dark areas). Also a major area of the image is blown. One thing you might check is to make sure the front element of your lens is clean. A dirty lens augments all of the undesirable effects of flare and ghosting.

As others said an FF lens is desirable but if you don't have one you use what you have, right? You can get some good images with this combo but try to observe some of these suggestions and I think you will be happier with the results. Don't give up just keep trying,

--
Pete
 
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If you are using the 18-200, it is a great lens, for shotput practice.

Get another lens and that alone will improve pics.

--
Wishing You Good Light.
 
Last edited:
dineshonline said:
I think there might be something wrong with the camera or the lens or the user? Please see example attached.

This is consistent with images in every scenario if you look at the images 1:1.

Some help please this is driving me nuts.

7d58cb19d377483ba05a5a1fc2d78a30.jpg

2ec9a6843d2a48b79588cbc44a05e5ea.jpg

887727d80a38464d9c7d55866f4b0fe4.jpg
Click to expand...
..Beautiful pictures.. :-)

..Cheers..

--
Regards, John..
..down with naysayers!
[YI M1 camera, Olympus 17mm f/1.8 lens, firmware 3.0]
 
- 10 mp center portion of sensor is being used, so you're already strained for resolution
- A consumer DX superzoom, which is loaded with optical compromises, is being used on a full frame body for inexplicable reasons
- many of your shots are directly into the sun which destroys constrast and creates lots of flare
- lack of or poor post-processing
- very small apertures are further degrading sharpness by way of diffraction
 
Yes, that seems likely to be the case.
 
All of these could be taken at ISO 100 which would improve particularly the second picture. It's also likely the lens sweet spot would be at f8, definitely not f20.
 
The first one isn't so bad , even looking at 1.1 like you want us too. But others landscape-pistas can tell you better than me. :-)
 
romfordbluenose said:
All of these could be taken at ISO 100 which would improve particularly the second picture. It's also likely the lens sweet spot would be at f8,
Click to expand...
I have the lens. There is an argument to be made that the sweet spot is f/5.6 or so from 18mm to ~30mm, about f/8 from ~30mm to ~ 60mm and about f/11 about ~60mm.
romfordbluenose said:
definitely not f20.
Click to expand...
That's for sure.
 
Flare in the first two images. I would suggest taking some instruction by reading some books or taking some basic seminars on photography concerning proper capture practices (settings, composition and just photography 101).

Larry
 
Joseph K Boston said:
- 10 mp center portion of sensor is being used, so you're already strained for resolution
- A consumer DX superzoom, which is loaded with optical compromises, is being used on a full frame body for inexplicable reasons
- many of your shots are directly into the sun which destroys constrast and creates lots of flare
- lack of or poor post-processing
- very small apertures are further degrading sharpness by way of diffraction
Click to expand...
 
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