Please examine this sharpness test on my new Rokinon 16mm/f2

Rudy Pohl

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Hi There,

After a year of giving up trying I broke down and bought another Rokinon ultra-wide angle lens, the Rokinon 16/f2.

I did a preliminary sharpness test by shooting a flat screen of aluminum mesh screen, critically focusing on the center and then checking throughout the frame, especially in the corners.

I have cropped a section of the center and laid it onto the upper right corner. It looks to me that the corner is very unsharp compared to the center.

- What is your opinion?

- What do you think the issue, simply a soft corner or decentered lens? Note that the right=hand corners are noticeably sharper than the left side.

- Do you think I should send the lens back to the store?

Thanks,
Rudy

Center/corner sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2
Center/corner sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2

Here is the entire frame 6000 x 4000 pixels shot on a Nikon D5500

Sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2
Sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/rudypohl/
 
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Hi Rudy, I've seen worse. Another way that I've tested this is to take an infinity focused landscape shot which I've then repeated with the view framed the same but with the camera inverted. Alternatively frame something - I use the pylons across the road from my house - so that it is located in the same relative position in each of the four corners of consecutive images, and compare those. I've had two lenses replaced after this sort of test, and one was a Loxia 21 - the NZ Zeiss agents were very good about it.

-John
 
Hi Rudy, I've seen worse. Another way that I've tested this is to take an infinity focused landscape shot which I've then repeated with the view framed the same but with the camera inverted. Alternatively frame something - I use the pylons across the road from my house - so that it is located in the same relative position in each of the four corners of consecutive images, and compare those. I've had two lenses replaced after this sort of test, and one was a Loxia 21 - the NZ Zeiss agents were very good about it.

-John
Thanks John,

so disappointing as this is my fourth Rokinon attempt in a year... 3 last year, all with problems.

Rudy
 
Hi Rudy, looking again, are you sure that this isn't field curvature? You don't say what aperture that you shot at, but I would also compare with an image focused on the corner. And if your intended use is astro, I'd be doing it at infinity, ie, close to your intended us.

-John
 
Hi Rudy, looking again, are you sure that this isn't field curvature? You don't say what aperture that you shot at, but I would also compare with an image focused on the corner. And if your intended use is astro, I'd be doing it at infinity, ie, close to your intended us.

-John
Hi John,

Yes, I'm with you on this. I have 30 days to send it back and this was just my first preliminary test. I will try various other tests including on real stars (assuming we ever see them again here in my lifetime). This lens will only be used for Milky Way landscapes and if I can make the left side "almost" as good as the center and left side in post processing then I may very well end up keeping it.... we'll have to see.

Rudy
 
As it turns out I did not have the flat screen mesh exactly parallel to the camera's sensor and so the entire left side was slightly out of focus.

I redid the test as accurately as I could without having any precise way to ensure that they were parallel this time except by sight. The results this time were much much better. I think I might be keeping this lens provide the actual field test on real stars work out well. Have a look....



Rokinon 16mm/f2  - aperture = f2.0
Rokinon 16mm/f2 - aperture = f2.0



--
 
Hi There,

After a year of giving up trying I broke down and bought another Rokinon ultra-wide angle lens, the Rokinon 16/f2.

I did a preliminary sharpness test by shooting a flat screen of aluminum mesh screen, critically focusing on the center and then checking throughout the frame, especially in the corners.

I have cropped a section of the center and laid it onto the upper right corner. It looks to me that the corner is very unsharp compared to the center.

- What is your opinion?

- What do you think the issue, simply a soft corner or decentered lens? Note that the right=hand corners are noticeably sharper than the left side.

- Do you think I should send the lens back to the store?

Thanks,
Rudy

Center/corner sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2
Center/corner sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2

Here is the entire frame 6000 x 4000 pixels shot on a Nikon D5500

Sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2
Sharpness test - Rokinon 16/f2
Rudy, If that was the degradation I had in the corner, it would not bother me that much. If you want it to be perfect, then you'll need to be paying premium prices. Even with a premium price, it is a rare lens that is close to perfect. In fact some premium lenses are not that good in the corners. Stars and window screens are tough tests.

That's not to say some Rokinon copies are better than others. So you'll need to decide what is good enough, given the price. Also the vendor may put a limit on the number of times you can swap lenses. Any returned lens would be an open box (reduced price) for future sale.

--
Best Regards,
Russ
 
Hi Russ,

If read my post just above yours you'll see that I did the test incorrectly and when I redid it properly the results were wonderful!!!!

I also did some coma tests on this lens and those results were also very good. Looks like I was belly-aching a bit too early... shame on me!

Rudy
 
The results this time were much much better. I think I might be keeping this lens provide the actual field test on real stars work out well.
That result looks really good. As a follow up it would be fun seeing your stellar lens test photo.

good luck and have fun
 
The results this time were much much better. I think I might be keeping this lens provide the actual field test on real stars work out well.
That result looks really good. As a follow up it would be fun seeing your stellar lens test photo.

good luck and have fun
Hi TJ,

Yes, I'm pretty pleased with the second set of results, I can work this level of sharpness making up for any lack in post processing. My indoor coma tests also yielded good results for coma in the corners so I am hopefully this could be the lens I've been waiting for.

Once we finally get a clear night, with or without the Moon, I will do a bunch of tests using my Star Adventurer tracker so that I will have nice round stars to examine rather than even minimally trails stars that come from static tripos shots. I will post them here when I get them.

Rudy
 
Looks pretty good to me Rudy. Can't wait for some of those epic farm-scapes.
 
Rudy! I wish I'd known you wanted this lens, I mighta given it to you. I recently sold mine after being listed for some time. It was a new one they sent me as my first was decentred.

Agreed, you want it for stars, test on stars.

Don't make me regret getting rid of that little thing:)

nate
 
Rudy! I wish I'd known you wanted this lens, I mighta given it to you. I recently sold mine after being listed for some time. It was a new one they sent me as my first was decentred.

Agreed, you want it for stars, test on stars.

Don't make me regret getting rid of that little thing:)

nate
Hi Nate,

Yea, too bad we didn't know what the other was doing... oh well c'est la vie!

I did manage to get the thing on sale for $130 Canadian off the reg price, ended up paying $450 for it which will be all well and good if it does the job. I will continue working on my 35mm mosaic pano technique this season, but I want a fast ultra-wide with good coma control and sharpness for shooting single frame wide Milky Way.... here's hoping.

Rudy
 
Rudy! I wish I'd known you wanted this lens, I mighta given it to you. I recently sold mine after being listed for some time. It was a new one they sent me as my first was decentred.

Agreed, you want it for stars, test on stars.

Don't make me regret getting rid of that little thing:)

nate
Hi Nate,

Yea, too bad we didn't know what the other was doing... oh well c'est la vie!

I did manage to get the thing on sale for $130 Canadian off the reg price, ended up paying $450 for it which will be all well and good if it does the job. I will continue working on my 35mm mosaic pano technique this season, but I want a fast ultra-wide with good coma control and sharpness for shooting single frame wide Milky Way.... here's hoping.

Rudy
I'm in the same boat. I want to get the Sigma 35 1.4 this year to do some pano/mosaic images because of the increased detail and better perspective it will bring. Another wrinkle going against my 16 f/2 is that a lens that wide and fast will struggle with interference filters like UV/IR around the edges of the frame. So, the 35 is very likely in my future.

The 16 is a great lens, though. I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being the sharpest lens you own at nearly any aperture and you end up doing daytime landscapes with it as well.

I even used it hand-held when I needed to photograph really large objects in a dim hangar.
 
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Rudy! I wish I'd known you wanted this lens, I mighta given it to you. I recently sold mine after being listed for some time. It was a new one they sent me as my first was decentred.

Agreed, you want it for stars, test on stars.

Don't make me regret getting rid of that little thing:)

nate
Hi Nate,

Yea, too bad we didn't know what the other was doing... oh well c'est la vie!

I did manage to get the thing on sale for $130 Canadian off the reg price, ended up paying $450 for it which will be all well and good if it does the job. I will continue working on my 35mm mosaic pano technique this season, but I want a fast ultra-wide with good coma control and sharpness for shooting single frame wide Milky Way.... here's hoping.

Rudy
I'm in the same boat. I want to get the Sigma 35 1.4 this year to do some pano/mosaic images because of the increased detail and better perspective it will bring. Another wrinkle going against my 16 f/2 is that a lens that wide and fast will struggle with interference filters like UV/IR around the edges of the frame. So, the 35 is very likely in my future.

The 16 is a great lens, though. I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being the sharpest lens you own at nearly any aperture and you end up doing daytime landscapes with it as well.

I even used it hand-held when I needed to photograph really large objects in a dim hangar.
Hi Eric,

Nice image in the hanger. Regarding mosaics, I have struggle with them for two entire Milky Way and I'm still no bloody good at them, and I'm not normally photographically or technically challenged. It just seems that one thing or another messes them up so that I end up with nothing.

The 16/2 is a backup solution so that as I continue working on my mosaic shooting I will know that before the end of my session I can haul out my Rokinon and still come away from the evening with a nice usable image. This is especially the case for the next few months when the Milky Way will still be low enough in the sky that I can get a full arch composition which is my aim.

I live in an unbelievably light-polluted area and to get a location that will allow a full arch comp is extremely hard to find... if we head too far east of Ottawa, since the MW is in the eastern sky, we head right into the Montreal light dome. Anyways, all together there's not much room for error and not much time for messing around if you want to come away with a full arch, especially in February where it is visible for less than an hour and really only decent for half that.

Rudy
 
Rudy! I wish I'd known you wanted this lens, I mighta given it to you. I recently sold mine after being listed for some time. It was a new one they sent me as my first was decentred.

Agreed, you want it for stars, test on stars.

Don't make me regret getting rid of that little thing:)

nate
Hi Nate,

Yea, too bad we didn't know what the other was doing... oh well c'est la vie!

I did manage to get the thing on sale for $130 Canadian off the reg price, ended up paying $450 for it which will be all well and good if it does the job. I will continue working on my 35mm mosaic pano technique this season, but I want a fast ultra-wide with good coma control and sharpness for shooting single frame wide Milky Way.... here's hoping.

Rudy
I'm in the same boat. I want to get the Sigma 35 1.4 this year to do some pano/mosaic images because of the increased detail and better perspective it will bring. Another wrinkle going against my 16 f/2 is that a lens that wide and fast will struggle with interference filters like UV/IR around the edges of the frame. So, the 35 is very likely in my future.

The 16 is a great lens, though. I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being the sharpest lens you own at nearly any aperture and you end up doing daytime landscapes with it as well.

I even used it hand-held when I needed to photograph really large objects in a dim hangar.
Hi Eric,

Nice image in the hanger. Regarding mosaics, I have struggle with them for two entire Milky Way and I'm still no bloody good at them, and I'm not normally photographically or technically challenged. It just seems that one thing or another messes them up so that I end up with nothing.

The 16/2 is a backup solution so that as I continue working on my mosaic shooting I will know that before the end of my session I can haul out my Rokinon and still come away from the evening with a nice usable image. This is especially the case for the next few months when the Milky Way will still be low enough in the sky that I can get a full arch composition which is my aim.

I live in an unbelievably light-polluted area and to get a location that will allow a full arch comp is extremely hard to find... if we head too far east of Ottawa, since the MW is in the eastern sky, we head right into the Montreal light dome. Anyways, all together there's not much room for error and not much time for messing around if you want to come away with a full arch, especially in February where it is visible for less than an hour and really only decent for half that.

Rudy
Light pollution is a menace.

I think you could grab an image with the 16 first, then spend some time experimenting with the 35. That way you would feel pretty good through the rest of the shoot that you got something.

I'm with the other commentators though - I think a much better test is going to be at distance. The face of a large building with some details or sharp lines would work well. I tested my 16 f/2 against the side of my house.
 
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