wow thanks jim, there very well may be times when i would use that option, for example if i know im not going to take a lot of shots on a certain occassion
that's a fantastic option
thanks for pointing it out
feivel
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should i work in adobeRGB?
- Thread starter feivel
- Start date
that's a fantastic option
thanks for pointing it out
feivel
feivel,
It seems you may be slightly confused about color management between devices. The camera, screen and print output are all different devices and you are striving to get the best output from the camera and/or screen to your printer. Rather than go into a long drawn out discussion on color management I would suggest that you learn how to soft proof in Photoshop as a good start. Also, your devices need to have profiles that give you a starting baseline so that you won't have to guess.
As an example, for my Canon cameras (D30,10D), I have custom profiles that I use in C1 Pro. I can then tell C1 what I want my output to like for web, Adobe RGB, print, etc. Because my system from camera to screen to whatever printer I use is calibrated, I always know to a fair degree how my images will look based on output. I stick with AdobeRGB throughout as I am very familiar with how it fits into my workflow.
No specific color spacing will give optimal output unless all device characteristics are understood and incorporated into the workflow as such.
Hope this don't confuse,
VG
PS...The swan histo color space may be YOUR best bet....hehehehehe
It seems you may be slightly confused about color management between devices. The camera, screen and print output are all different devices and you are striving to get the best output from the camera and/or screen to your printer. Rather than go into a long drawn out discussion on color management I would suggest that you learn how to soft proof in Photoshop as a good start. Also, your devices need to have profiles that give you a starting baseline so that you won't have to guess.
As an example, for my Canon cameras (D30,10D), I have custom profiles that I use in C1 Pro. I can then tell C1 what I want my output to like for web, Adobe RGB, print, etc. Because my system from camera to screen to whatever printer I use is calibrated, I always know to a fair degree how my images will look based on output. I stick with AdobeRGB throughout as I am very familiar with how it fits into my workflow.
No specific color spacing will give optimal output unless all device characteristics are understood and incorporated into the workflow as such.
Hope this don't confuse,
VG
PS...The swan histo color space may be YOUR best bet....hehehehehe
I'm not at all confused about color management, just ignorant, and prefer to stay that way
you have no idea how happy that makes me
nope, still ignorant, but i appreciate your efforts to reform me
that's the answer i was longing for,
so to summarize i should do everything in s(swan)RGB, and then all will be OK!
Bill Richardson
Senior Member
--You are going to love the 10d. I decided to shoot in sRGB because there is a loss of a couple of functions in the 10d if you shoot in RGB but I am still experimenting.
Bill Richardson
Barrington, IL (USA)
i plan to shoot in sRGB also, would like to have the freedom to mess with the parameters especially the sharpness, dont want to rely on photoshop for every pic
what lenses did you get?
feivel
feivel,
The in camera parameters are a joke actually. If you shoot in RAW, it doesn't matter what the parameter settings are as these only affect JPEGs. The parameter settings in RAW are determined by the conversion software.
As to lenses, I've got the 200mm f1.8 and I don't leave home without it as most of my stuff is shot with it. If you got the money for lenses, stick with the L's. The 17-40, 28-70 and the 70-200 (IS or not) are all good choices. If not, probably the most versatile all around Canon non-L lens is the 28-135mm IS. It's the closest thing to an L that I've seen and used. Another good low end but sharp and contrasty lens is the 50mm 1.8 at around 60-70 bucks. Some of the 75-300mm low enders do pretty good as well for a zoomer.
Go to photodo.com for some lens MTF charting as they are fairly accurate as to real use.
HTH,
VG
The in camera parameters are a joke actually. If you shoot in RAW, it doesn't matter what the parameter settings are as these only affect JPEGs. The parameter settings in RAW are determined by the conversion software.
As to lenses, I've got the 200mm f1.8 and I don't leave home without it as most of my stuff is shot with it. If you got the money for lenses, stick with the L's. The 17-40, 28-70 and the 70-200 (IS or not) are all good choices. If not, probably the most versatile all around Canon non-L lens is the 28-135mm IS. It's the closest thing to an L that I've seen and used. Another good low end but sharp and contrasty lens is the 50mm 1.8 at around 60-70 bucks. Some of the 75-300mm low enders do pretty good as well for a zoomer.
Go to photodo.com for some lens MTF charting as they are fairly accurate as to real use.
HTH,
VG
Just a comment about the 10D.
I was originally miserable with the focus issue. Then I reread the manual. I found that (1) if I used only the center focus point (settings choice), (2) had good light, and (3) did some in-camera sharpening, the results were/are wonderful. Obviously, a decent lens is a must. I'm very pleased now.
The focus issue has been discussed ad nauseam on the 10D forum, frequently with personal attacks and jibes. They provided much heat but shed little light. I'm sure some units were not up to par, but before throwing up one's hands, an exercise in patience and experimentation is worth the effort (at least for me) and is sometimes (even) helpful.
The 10D is not an Instamatic; there is a learning curve, to be sure, but (it seems to me) after a while, amazing pictures will just "pour out" of the camera.
The above is just my personal reflection/experience and opinion... "works for me" - so please no attacks on the focus issue.
BTW, the retouching forum is scads more interesting these days than the 10D forum.
= rb
I was originally miserable with the focus issue. Then I reread the manual. I found that (1) if I used only the center focus point (settings choice), (2) had good light, and (3) did some in-camera sharpening, the results were/are wonderful. Obviously, a decent lens is a must. I'm very pleased now.
The focus issue has been discussed ad nauseam on the 10D forum, frequently with personal attacks and jibes. They provided much heat but shed little light. I'm sure some units were not up to par, but before throwing up one's hands, an exercise in patience and experimentation is worth the effort (at least for me) and is sometimes (even) helpful.
The 10D is not an Instamatic; there is a learning curve, to be sure, but (it seems to me) after a while, amazing pictures will just "pour out" of the camera.
The above is just my personal reflection/experience and opinion... "works for me" - so please no attacks on the focus issue.
BTW, the retouching forum is scads more interesting these days than the 10D forum.
= rb
jeanette...
Leading Member
This sounds like a good move. Once you learn working with the setting in camera, you'll be extremely happy with the results in Photoshop. I do a lot less fixing shooting with the custom settings and using PS to play with. By the way, I may have been confusing you because I never call the custom settings sRGB and that's what they are. I prefer to think of them as custom settings. I do always refer to these settings as "in camera, " so I don't get confused with PS Color Management.
jeanette...
--
'Communication is the cornerstone to understanding.'
Jeanette Butler
http://www.communityzero.com/pug
http://www.pbase.com/maxie6
jeanette...
--
'Communication is the cornerstone to understanding.'
Jeanette Butler
http://www.communityzero.com/pug
http://www.pbase.com/maxie6
that's my plan!
hang around for a while, if nothing else you'll discover that there are no personal attacks here, the most civil forum around
feivel
I don't have a 10D or am I planning to get one, but your comments are appreciated. Since I lurk all boards occassionally and have read some of what you mention, on the camera. I think you have a good summary of what has occurred there and with the exception of those cameras that needed a factory fix, it seems the brighter of the users figure it out and the images they get are among the best available now.
--
Kent
http://www.pbase.com/kentc
Bill Richardson
Senior Member
--I do switch to Adobe RGB when processing and printing. After you get it, try my editing action. It is working well for me and I will send it to you. I got the 17-40L which acts as a 27-64mm and is a great lens. I got the 200 2.8f too which is sharp but not flexible. I ordered the 100-400 too and had to send it back for a replacement due to focus problems. The images are smoooooooooth!
Bill Richardson
Barrington, IL (USA)
..and this chart says it all, really:
I use a 10D (excellent camera, btw!), and AdobeRGB offers a wider colorspace and captures a tonality that sRGB simply doesn't have.
Choking the color space down from the get go is a shame, imo.
I use a 10D (excellent camera, btw!), and AdobeRGB offers a wider colorspace and captures a tonality that sRGB simply doesn't have.
Choking the color space down from the get go is a shame, imo.
Thomas Niemann
Senior Member
Well, not quite all. How do you display the extra colors? On a monitor? On a photographic print? A bit of a problem here.
In my case, I couldn't see any difference in the final outcome, and went with the simpler workflow (sRGB).
I don't want to start a "workspace war" here. All I'm saying is try both, and if you see a difference in the final product, by all means use aRGB. If not, consider sRGB.
Thomas Niemann
http://epaperpress.com
In my case, I couldn't see any difference in the final outcome, and went with the simpler workflow (sRGB).
I don't want to start a "workspace war" here. All I'm saying is try both, and if you see a difference in the final product, by all means use aRGB. If not, consider sRGB.
--
Thomas Niemann
http://epaperpress.com
Ed Rotberg
Senior Member
Since I was moving over from (on the film side) A Pentax system, I had to start from scratch with lenses. I'm a nut about availabl light, and try to avoid flash whenever possible. My budget allowed me to get 3 good lenses which are:
Sigma 15-30MM 3.5-4.5 EX
Canon 50MM f1.4
Canon 70-200 2.8L IS
The two Canon lenses are incredibly sharp and contrasty and the Sigma is no slouch either! I am exremely pleased with my lens choices. This is after shooting over 700 shots on my recent vacation to Ireland/Scotland. The photos are incredible and the only problems were operator error
My next lens will probably be the Canon 100MM f2.8 Macro USM, followed by some "big glass" -- either a 400MM f4.0 or 500MM f4.0 hopefully with IS. I'll probably have to see my car to buy that one though :-(
= Ed =
--
= Ed Rotberg =
'A waist is a terrible thing to mind'
Sigma 15-30MM 3.5-4.5 EX
Canon 50MM f1.4
Canon 70-200 2.8L IS
The two Canon lenses are incredibly sharp and contrasty and the Sigma is no slouch either! I am exremely pleased with my lens choices. This is after shooting over 700 shots on my recent vacation to Ireland/Scotland. The photos are incredible and the only problems were operator error
My next lens will probably be the Canon 100MM f2.8 Macro USM, followed by some "big glass" -- either a 400MM f4.0 or 500MM f4.0 hopefully with IS. I'll probably have to see my car to buy that one though :-(
= Ed =
--
= Ed Rotberg =
'A waist is a terrible thing to mind'
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