D7200 blurry photos on 18-140

Omer Jan

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I recently got a D7200 and didn't start using it right away. I picked it up every now and then and took photos here and there, mostly on Aperture priority mode. My concern is none of the images are sharp at 100% focus. I did the af fine tune but the images seem to be sharpest at default so no problems there.

I've shot handheld, on the tripod, at high shutter speeds. I shot at full auto to determine whether it was some setting i was making wrong.

Please see the attached pictures and tell me what's wrong:



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I have no idea. I never used JPEG on it. From RAW I get what I want.
 
  1. WPMChan wrote:
I have no idea. I never used JPEG on it. From RAW I get what I want.

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Victor
Bucuresti, Romania
Me too.

I am always happy with what I got from my D5600, be it with the AFP 18-55 or with my AFS 18-140. I am a JPEG shooter and has been happy with the JPEG I got. I am still learning how to get better results out of RAW.

If Karoly is not happy with what he got from his D5600, he should look for another camera. I just wish that he will find one that he likes eventually.
We will give another chance for the Nikon because we bought for Christmas and it was a nice gift. If the spring will come we will try it outside in sunny weather and also avoid that nasty shutter speed range (1/60s-1/250s)

I tried a Pentax K-70 in a shop compared with the Nikon D5600 and wow the Pentax can goes up to 102400 and approx. half of the noise than the Nikon D5600 for sure. Nice sharp, crystal clear pictures, no soft photos, no shutter shock, no blurry images. I am so impressed of the Pentax images. If until summer our Nikon will not give expected results the Pentax K-70 is the clear winner. Pentax is also a strong competitor for full frame Nikons! Pentax K-70 has AF micro adjustment, double wheel (front-back), temperature in K if white balance not correct, pentaprism viewfinder, 1/6000s shutter speed, pixel shift, body stabilization, weather sealed body, etc. fantastic.
 
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  1. WPMChan wrote:
I have no idea. I never used JPEG on it. From RAW I get what I want.

--
Victor
Bucuresti, Romania
Me too.

I am always happy with what I got from my D5600, be it with the AFP 18-55 or with my AFS 18-140. I am a JPEG shooter and has been happy with the JPEG I got. I am still learning how to get better results out of RAW.

If Karoly is not happy with what he got from his D5600, he should look for another camera. I just wish that he will find one that he likes eventually.
We will give another chance for the Nikon because we bought for Christmas and it was a nice gift. If the spring will come we will try it outside in sunny weather and also avoid that nasty shutter speed range (1/60s-1/250s)

I tried a Pentax K-70 in a shop compared with the Nikon D5600 and wow the Pentax can goes up to 102400 and approx. half of the noise than the Nikon D5600 for sure. Nice sharp, crystal clear pictures, no soft photos, no shutter shock, no blurry images. I am so impressed of the Pentax images. If until summer our Nikon will not give expected results the Pentax K-70 is the clear winner. Pentax is also a strong competitor for full frame Nikons! Pentax K-70 has AF micro adjustment, double wheel (front-back), temperature in K if white balance not correct, pentaprism viewfinder, 1/6000s shutter speed, pixel shift, body stabilization, weather sealed body, etc. fantastic.
Good Luck. Sounds like you have found your perfect camera.
Thank you sir, it seems to very promising.
 
Pentax has a slightly worse sensor (based on K3-II as K-70 was not tested).


Pentax throws a lot in their entry level cameras (even the OVF is better) to entice buyers. Unfortunately their market share remains very small.

As you just received the camera with the kit lens (maybe you have a lemon, more likely in mass produced kit lenses) I would try to exchange the kit lens if possible.
 
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Pentax has a slightly worse sensor (based on K3-II as K-70 was not tested).

https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Com...ax-K-70-versus-Pentax-K-3-II___1139_1098_1026

Pentax throws a lot in their entry level cameras (even the OVF is better) to entice buyers. Unfortunately their market share remains very small.

As you just received the camera with the kit lens (maybe you have a lemon, more likely in mass produced kit lenses) I would try to exchange the kit lens if possible.

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Victor
Bucuresti, Romania
Thank you so much for your and others help I appreciate it. I am not intend to get rid of our Nikon immediately like you said maybe we have to try with other lenses also. How it is possible that all the photos with flash almost all are good? I tried different shutter speeds like 1/60s, 1/80s, 1/100s, 1/125s, 1/160s and 1/200s. Although a very few times can be visible that vibration but outside without flas was really terrible blurry focused on the building. On Saturday or Sunday I will go for 2 sellers and try their Tamron 70-300 VC USD lenses. I think I will take a lot pictures as I can (I hope the weather will be fine) at 24mpixel at different shutter speeds and look back carefully at home. I will not buy it just test it how it performs. Any suggestions are welcome.

I saw many Pentax K-70 photos and are extremely needle ultra smooth sharp especially with the new Pentax 55-300 PLM electronic aperture control lens. Yes, Pentax switched to electronic aperture control like Canon did in the past in 1986. In my eyes it is a super iedea instead of the "old fashion" mechanical.
 
With flash you have good light and an exposure time of 1/800 s to 1/1000 s (at full power) within the range where the flash light overpowers the ambient light. As those photos are OK then the culprit is likely your technique rather than the lens. You may try to turn off the VR and see if it improves the quality. There may also be VR the culprit as the blur from defective VR is mitigated by the short exposure time (or fast shutter speed if you like) of the flash. I hope you have warranty to exchange the lens.

Remember that good light = good photo.
 
With flash you have good light and an exposure time of 1/800 s to 1/1000 s (at full power) within the range where the flash light overpowers the ambient light. As those photos are OK then the culprit is likely your technique rather than the lens. You may try to turn off the VR and see if it improves the quality. There may also be VR the culprit as the blur from defective VR is mitigated by the short exposure time (or fast shutter speed if you like) of the flash. I hope you have warranty to exchange the lens.

Remember that good light = good photo.

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Victor
Bucuresti, Romania
I tried and without VR really improved. I think around shutter speed 1/200s if I use flash the VR is not important, can switch off.

I have bought an old Nikon 50mm f1.8 AI-s lens and I mounted it. Everything working only in Manual Mode. No TTL flash metering, no exposure confirmation even Live View Mode is not working instead show the video settings.

I have an issue that is cannot be described. In the Viewfinder I focus smoothly on the object on the center and shoot with flash. The photo in the Viewfinder looks crystal clear and sharp, excelent, but when I look back the photo at the center is completely out of focus but around like slightly above and under is sharp. Normally lenses always sharp in the center and soften towards the edges, but here has something. What could be the problem?

See attached photo below. The last 2 photos is the lens.

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It seems that your lens has some issues with centering and VR. As this is the cheapest lens possible I would try to exchange showing one shot with VR and another without VR and a shot of a newspaper that is perpendicular to the camera.
 
It seems that your lens has some issues with centering and VR. As this is the cheapest lens possible I would try to exchange showing one shot with VR and another without VR and a shot of a newspaper that is perpendicular to the camera.

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Victor
Bucuresti, Romania
This is a full MF lens from 1985 and doesn't have any VR. I removed from the camera put back again and now seems to be good.
 
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Sorry! I missed the part with the lens. It seems the lens is not centered correctly. You cannot really judge the the sharpness in the OVF.
 
This AI-s type manual lens is good for some situations although with some kind of limitations that in the meantime I realized. fx. in Live View Mode is not really Live View Mode shooting is in Video Mode but lets to take photos. The annoying is that don't let lower shutter speed below 1/60s but I don't know why. Does somebody has experience with AI-s lens on D5xxx bodies? As I can see Nikon made some restrictions/compatibility issues that allows only on higher like 7xxx models.
 
Agree with this...you should go to the local Nikon dealer and try out your 5600 with a different lens...and maybe the lens on another body taking with you the SD card and compare when you get home....
 
This AI-s type manual lens is good for some situations although with some kind of limitations that in the meantime I realized. fx. in Live View Mode is not really Live View Mode shooting is in Video Mode but lets to take photos. The annoying is that don't let lower shutter speed below 1/60s but I don't know why. Does somebody has experience with AI-s lens on D5xxx bodies? As I can see Nikon made some restrictions/compatibility issues that allows only on higher like 7xxx models.
Video Mode won't let you shot slower than 1/60s because the frame rate is 60 fps (for 1080p 60fps setting). Video mode is designed to allow you to set the shutter speed faster than 1/60s so you can to decrease the blur in moving objects or when you pan the camera. Some people like the blur, some don't.

You can take also take videos without switching to Video Mode in setup. Then the camera will adjust the shutter speed and exposure automatically.

To see the full natural sharpness of your lens/camera you should take a photo in Live View. Take the same scene in Live View and also through the Viewfinder (like you have been) and post of few results if you can. The comparison with Live View will tell you if you really have an issue with your lens.
 
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To see the full natural sharpness of your lens/camera you should take a photo in Live View. Take the same scene in Live View and also through the Viewfinder (like you have been) and post of few results if you can. The comparison with Live View will tell you if you really have an issue with your lens.
I made a big test to see is there any mechanical vibration due to mirror flip or the so called shutter shock issue. Photos are without any edition.

- Camera Nikon D5600, lens is AF-P 18-55 f3.5-5.6

- Wired shutter remote MC-DC2

4 Methods:

- Viewfinder, viewfinder + shutter delay (mirror lockup)

- Live View Mode, Live View Mode + shutter delay (mirror lockup)

Test was on sturdy tripod, shutter speeds from 1/2000 - 1/10s, only ISO was changed until 1/50s, below 1/50s lighting was changed in the room.

- Focus Mode: AF-S

- AF Area Mode: Single, center focus point

- Aperture: f8

- Focal length: 55mm

- VR: OFF

- Noise reduction: OFF

- Jpeg size: 6000x4000 (24mpixel)

- Jpeg type: Fine

- Camera sharpenig: 8

Viewfinder : DSC_2025-DSC_2034 1/400s - 1/50s

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Live View Mode: DSC_2051-DSC_2060 1/400s - 1/50s

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The conlusions are (best way to detect the vibration where the lines start goes from the middle of the square center of the photos, also number 18 )

At Viewfinder Mode a very small vibration enter at 1/320s and goes down continuously to 1/100s, at 1/80s almost gone, but 1/60s again visible and stay there down to 1/10s. After I repeated with VR ON. Result is improved a lot, vibrations was only recognizable at 1/200s, 1/160s, 1/125s, 1/100s, 1/60s, 1/50s, 1/20s the rest are CLEAR.

At Live View Mode the vibration also enter at 1/320s but smaller, worse is 1/60s again visible, like in Viewfinder Mode. I can tell that Live View Mode is almost CLEAR from vibration except 1/60s.

Above 1/320s it means from 1/400s is completely gone, all the photos doesn't have any vibration up to shutter speed 1/2000s this is 100% guarranteed both Viewfinder and Live View Mode.

Viewfinder and Live View Mode with shutter delay 90% of the vibrations are gone.

Worse speed is 1/60s that was always visible during all the 5 tests.
 
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Most of the time soft images are user error. I have a D90, D 7100 and D7200. The D90 is sharp, so is the D7100 and the D7200 is noticeably sharper even in the previews. For more discussion on this, google Thom Hogan.

You have to set up the camera right. If you have a camera on a tripod and don't use a remote release, you will introduce blur unless you are really good at releasing the shutter. You have to set the auto-focus right; set it so you set the focus point. Use the AF-on button to focus your camera, not the shutter release button.

There is technique involved in getting sharp images; if you don't have the technique, you won't get sharp pictures, period.
 

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