On the other hand, I've gotten used to simply dialing down the
exposure by about 1/2 stop, which solves almost every problem with
blown highlights for me. (sometimes with contrasty sky, I have to
dial down further, but I just check right after the shot and if
anything flashes, I tweak it down more and reshoot).
Does anyone set the custom function to allow exposure compensation
in third-stops? I basically want the camera to capture as nearly
as possible to its usual good overall exposure, while avoiding
blowouts.
--
[ e d @ h a l l e y . c c ]
Yes, I enable everything to be used in thirds. I find it gives me finer control from aperture and shutter timing, to exposure/flash exposure compensation. You get more and finer increments that result in more possible settings, which equals more control. I have set the custom function to 1/3 increments the day I got the camera and have never used it otherwise.
As far as using exposure compensation (EC), I used to dial in -1/3 to -2 stops depending upon the dynamic of the scene. In the last month though, I find that I don't use EC quite as much or as aggresively as I used to. Now in situations where I would have dialed in small amounts of -EC, I tend to not dial in any, and in situations where I would be more aggressive with -EC, I simply use minimal -EC (-1/3 or -2/3).
To enable me to do this, I simply rely on the way I meter the scene, and/or the metering mode I use. I generaly use evaluative metering, but will also use partial when I am mainly concerned with the subject, such as with portraits.
With evaluative metering, I will meter off a medium to lightest part of the scene depending on the oveall contrast/dynamic of the scene. I will then use levels curves in C1LE to balance the exposure by bringing up the shadows and midtones will maintaining the highlights.
When metering with partial, I will try to meter of an average brightness (or brighter area if contrasty) of my subject and use levels and curves to balance the exposure, but most times in this type of situation I do not find it necessary, as it is very minimal.
In the lion photo to provided as an example, I would guess that these highlights would be fairly simple to recover in C1LE (shooting RAW) as they do not seem to be severly blown. With the exposure warning on in C1LE(similar to the exposure warning on the 10D), I would simply pull down the upper most point (255,255) of the composite curve just to the point where/when the exposure warning dissappeared. It usually requires only the smallest adjustment, and most times the majority of the detail of the blown highlights, if not all, are maintained/recovered. If after making this adjustment, the midtones and shadows were brought down too much, I can simply lighten them within the curve or use levels.
I have had great success with these techniques, and since shooting exclusively in RAW since my 3000th (or so) exposure with my 10D (now approaching 8000), I have saved, recovered or otherwise enhanced several shots that may otherwise have been mistakes/trash.
I have never gone back to shooting jpegs, and I doubt I ever will. The latitude and flexiblity in post-processing RAW files is far too advantageous over that of jpegs for me to ever change. If not for the ability to adjust for and recover poor expousres, but also for the ability to finally tune white (gray) balance in C1LE. Depending on the type of photos I am dealing with, I often only use PS7 to resize and sharpen for web presentation or set up for printing. I only really use PS7 extensively when I am working on portraits or have to do reconstruction due to poor backgrouds and such.
Kevin V
--
Greatest words of wisdom:
First thing, RTFM!! When all else fails, RTFM again!! Then ask questions!
http://www.pbase.com/kevinv 
