Super Zoom Test #1 Nikon 200-500mm. More advice please.

Obie303 · Nov 15, 2017

Ok, last week I was looking for some advice regarding wildlife tips for the Nikon D7200 and the Nikon 200-500mm. I picked up the lens yesterday and finally had a chance to play with the new lens today.

My first thoughts were this lens is HEAVY. I was expecting the weight, but when you put it around your neck and start walking around, it caught me off guard. So with that in mind, I scampered off to the back yard to snap a few shots. I was loosing daylight and by the time I made it outside, the sun had moved behind some trees and what little leaves there were, still were a concern.

I set my camera to auto ISO (as I read was a good idea). I selected a minimum ISO of 100 and a max at 2500. I left the aperture at 5.6 and set the shutter speed at 1/1000 for the first shots. I had matrix metering and AF-C selected. My first set was slightly over exposed so I set the shutter to 1/12500. The lens was set to M/A, Full, VR ON, and Normal. All of the images were taken at 500mm for this test.

I got a few shots (out of about 30) that were OK. I selected a few of the better shots. Who would have thought taking a picture of a little bird would be this difficult. I got more shots of feathery butts that I care to mention here. :-D

My first time out, I'm feeling OK with my test. I need to work on the weight of the lens for walking in the woods and focus points. I still had some softness in the pictures I want to address as well. Any help and advice to move forward would be appreciated.

Black capped Chickadee.

Chickadee and friend.

A mouthful.

drj3 · Nov 15, 2017

Why would your camera have overexposed the images at 1/1000, if you have auto ISO? At 1/1250 the ISO is at your maximum set point, at 1/1000 it should have simply reduced the ISO for a lower value with less noise. The images look somewhat noisier than I would expect for the D7200 at ISO 2500, so I think the images may actually be a little under exposed.

I assume your lens has stabilization, if so, I would have dropped the shutter speed somewhat to lower the ISO and reduce noise.

With a stationary target, you should be using a single focus point placed on the bird's eye/head, if possible. You will have a very shallow depth of field with 500mm on a crop sensor, so focus is critical.

Morris0 · Nov 15, 2017

drj3 said:
Why would your camera have overexposed the images at 1/1000, if you have auto ISO? At 1/1250 the ISO is at your maximum set point, at 1/1000 it should have simply reduced the ISO for a lower value with less noise. The images look somewhat noisier than I would expect for the D7200 at ISO 2500, so I think the images may actually be a little under exposed.

I assume your lens has stabilization, if so, I would have dropped the shutter speed somewhat to lower the ISO and reduce noise.

With a stationary target, you should be using a single focus point placed on the bird's eye/head, if possible. You will have a very shallow depth of field with 500mm on a crop sensor, so focus is critical.

Richard B99 · Nov 17, 2017

Just on carrying the 200-500... It sounded like you have it on a camera strap round your neck like with normal sized lenses. If so that’s not the way to go. The lens and camera really need to be carried with a strap attached to the lens foot. If you use a strap attached to the camera you are suspending the lens weight from the mount which isn’t great plus a strap round the neck is not good for you.

I’d suggest a wide strap sling style across a shoulder and attached to the lens foot with the lens and camera carried horizontally at your side. I use a Black Rapid strap. They do a left hand version where the camera sits on your left side. There you can swing it up using your left hand on the foot. That’s easier and quicker and puts no stress on the mount than swinging it up right handed holding the camera grip.

One other tip. If you have little experience of using really long lenses do consider using some support like a monopod. They really do make a big difference to your success rate.

(Other sling straps are available!)

BGD300V1 · Nov 17, 2017

If only to support the weight when not shooting.

Attaching to the lens instead of the camera is also excellent. I use Peak Design straps and put the attachment points on my big lenses so that I can use the strap in whatever configuration suits me at the time, or removes it entirely for tripod use.

Richard B99 · Nov 17, 2017

BGD300V1 said:
If only to support the weight when not shooting.

Attaching to the lens instead of the camera is also excellent. I use Peak Design straps and put the attachment points on my big lenses so that I can use the strap in whatever configuration suits me at the time, or removes it entirely for tripod use.

PeteQuad · Nov 17, 2017

They are just little loops. They can either go in the holes for the camera strap or into a hole in one of the corners of a square arca compatible shoe that screws in where a tripod would go.

PeteQuad · Nov 17, 2017

Calling that lens a superzoom is technically incorrect. Superzooms are the lenses that go from wide-angle to telephoto. This is just a normal telephoto zoom lens.

If you are using auto ISO, changing the shutter speed does not affect the exposure. For sitting still birds I would recommend starting at 1/1000 and then going down from there depending on your results. 1/800 is probably fine, and 1/640 and below will start to depend on how good the stabilization on that lens is. I have heard it is very good so you can probably get down a good bit from there with practice. If the bird is moving you need to go up from 1/1000.

Make sure to target the bird's eyeball when you focus. Everyone looks at the eye naturally so it is what you want to have in tightest focus.

Don't carry that combo on your neck or you will end up with neck issues. Get a shoulder strap.

Practice your noise reduction and sharpening when you get sharp photos. It will make a huge difference.

Overall the photos are looking nice to the naked eye; time to get out in the field and get some shots away from the feeder

.

BGD300V1 · Nov 17, 2017

If you get the slide or the slide light they come with a small Arca-Swiss plate with openings in the corner. My 200-500 has a Kirk Foot and I can put the tabs on the PD plate and mount it to the tripod socket at the rear of the kirk plate..

The slide light is similar but with a narrower strap.

If you get the smaller leash, there is a tripod socket anchor mount that come with it that would likely work but I would like a larger strap for a heavy lens.

You can actually buy the AS plate and anchor mount independently as you can the anchor cords. To give an idea of the size of the anchor mount, here it is on a Nikon V2.

--
My photo blog: http://birdsnbugs.com
RF Stock Portfolio - http://www.dreamstime.com/resp129611

NikonNature · Nov 17, 2017

First off, kudos. Practicing on backyard birds is a great way to hone your skills. You can do short sessions any time you want which is much better IMO than a few longer sessions with big gaps in between.

Onto your other issues... yes, get a shoulder strap (I use Black Rapid Sport) or a monopod. Get the weight off your neck.

Auto-ISO is fine, but it depends on what mode you are in. I'll assume Aperture priority since they are all at f/5.6. If you start at 1/1000 second and find they are over exposed, the solution is to use exposure compensation. Hold down the EC +/- button and scroll to minus .7 or whatever and take another shot. Then repeat adjusting the value as needed.

Shutter speed - While a perched bird may seem like a stationary target they are always shifting and twitching, especially their head, so 1/1000 is still a good starting point.

Richard B99 · Nov 17, 2017

Ok, understand, you attach them to the lens foot. I thought you had found a way to attach them to the lens itself. I couldn’t figure out how that would be possible!

I also have the Kirk foot with it’s built in Arca dovetail. I then use an Acratech Swift Clamp to lock it to the foot’s dovetail.

Acratech Swift Clamp.

PeteQuad · Nov 17, 2017

The Peak design one attaches in 2 places instead of one like a regular strap.

BGD300V1 · Nov 17, 2017

With enough duct tape anything is possible.

Morris0 · Nov 17, 2017

PeteQuad said:
Calling that lens a superzoom is technically incorrect. Superzooms are the lenses that go from wide-angle to telephoto. This is just a normal telephoto zoom lens.

If you are using auto ISO, changing the shutter speed does not affect the exposure. For sitting still birds I would recommend starting at 1/1000 and then going down from there depending on your results. 1/800 is probably fine, and 1/640 and below will start to depend on how good the stabilization on that lens is. I have heard it is very good so you can probably get down a good bit from there with practice. If the bird is moving you need to go up from 1/1000.

Make sure to target the bird's eyeball when you focus. Everyone looks at the eye naturally so it is what you want to have in tightest focus.

Don't carry that combo on your neck or you will end up with neck issues. Get a shoulder strap.

Practice your noise reduction and sharpening when you get sharp photos. It will make a huge difference.

Overall the photos are looking nice to the naked eye; time to get out in the field and get some shots away from the feeder .

1/100 should be easy

PeteQuad · Nov 17, 2017

I've heard that, but I didn't want to guess since some people stink at this for some reason (notably me). I am still relatively new to this (less than 2 years in), but I have trouble getting below 1/500 with my 150-600mm sigma. It's a little more reach, and I know the stabilization is not as good as the Nikon lens, but I keep hoping I can do better and fail, except for a few times where I feel I only got lucky. I am sure I just need more practice with my technique.

Morris0 · Nov 17, 2017

PeteQuad said:
I've heard that, but I didn't want to guess since some people stink at this for some reason (notably me). I am still relatively new to this (less than 2 years in), but I have trouble getting below 1/500 with my 150-600mm sigma. It's a little more reach, and I know the stabilization is not as good as the Nikon lens, but I keep hoping I can do better and fail, except for a few times where I feel I only got lucky. I am sure I just need more practice with my technique.

The usual reason for less than sharp at low shutter speeds and long stabilized lenses is jerking the shutter rather than squeezing it. This was done at 1/50 with the Sigma 150-600 Sport and hand held

Also, make sure your feet are spread a bit and that your forehead is firmly against the view finder.

Morris

PeteQuad · Nov 17, 2017

Another problem is that I don't have the muscle memory yet and I rarely get a chance to think since I am usually photographing birds that only give me a small window of time. But thanks for the advice and I will keep trying; like everything I am sure I will get better with practice.

Obie303 · Nov 18, 2017

Some really great advice. With regards the Black Rapid strap and attaching it to the foot of the lens, are there any concerns about the quick release failing? Is it common for photographers to use a safety strap as well?

For the cost of the straps (around $10 USD), it seems like a reasonable investment for that "just in case" moment.

BGD300V1 · Nov 18, 2017

PeteQuad said:
The Peak design one attaches in 2 places instead of one like a regular strap.

You could put two anchors on one point. One thing I like is that it leaves my A-S Mounting plate free for use on a monopod or tripod.

Morris0 · Nov 18, 2017

Obie303 said:
Some really great advice. With regards the Black Rapid strap and attaching it to the foot of the lens, are there any concerns about the quick release failing? Is it common for photographers to use a safety strap as well?

For the cost of the straps (around $10 USD), it seems like a reasonable investment for that "just in case" moment.

I've been using the Black Rapid Curve for a few years and the attachment lug is as tight as the day I put it on. I have a number of friends that use this system and none have reported any issue with losing. I have seen reports of issues and can not judge how common they are. As a security measure I added a drop of paint to the threads when I attached mine. This is an old machinists trick to keep a screw tight as the paint acts as glue yet will easily break free when you use a tool to loosen it.

No matter what method you use, you should be looking at your gear and making sure that all screws are tight on a regular basis, say one time a month.

Morris

Super Zoom Test #1 Nikon 200-500mm. More advice please.

Well-known member

Attachments

Forum Pro

Forum Pro

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Forum Enthusiast

Forum Enthusiast

Senior Member

Veteran Member

Senior Member

Forum Enthusiast

Senior Member

Forum Pro

Forum Enthusiast

Forum Pro

Forum Enthusiast

Well-known member

Senior Member

Forum Pro

Similar threads

Keyboard shortcuts