Metering difference

I think if you are serious to photography, don't buy this one.

300D is just like a toy.
Can anyone explain the real metering diff between 300D and 10D? I'm
now startign to have a hard time justifying $500 for the metering
diff and a plastic body. I don't think the ISO3200 nor the extra
consecutive frames will make much of a difference to me. My problem
is that the lenses I want come over a grand - that $500 would go a
long way towards lenses. After 6 mo of waiting to buy the D10 I'm
finally ready and I can't imagine anything else. Now the 300D comes
along and I"m scared that I'll miss out on something! What will the
extra $ get me for real?

Thanks!
Lonnit
 
I think if you are serious to photography, don't buy this one.

300D is just like a toy.
It's the photographer that makes the camera, not the camera that makes the photographer.

This is the modern-day Canon AE-1 of cameras. And many a fine photo were taken with trusty little AE-1's in there day. (The AE-1, as you will recall, was a plastic camera, too. And it's one of the best selling SLR cameras of all time.)

Would you consider someone who bought a venerable Nikon FM3A a less than serious photographer? No. In fact, a camera like an FM3 used to be the choice of serious photographers. And yet the 300D can do so much more and achieve such a higher potential than a simple FM3A. And believe it or not, the 300D will probably last just as long. I have a Rebel going on almost 10 years without a hitch.

By the way, the FM3A with a 45/2.8 lens (which is pretty slow for a 50mm prime) sold as a kit sells for $900 new at B&H. There is no autofocus, let along AI Servo. There is no FEC. There is no 3fps. There isn't even any partial meter or evaluative meter; all you get it simple center-weigted metering. And you still have to buy film for it. Makes the 300D sound like a bargain, doesn't it?

At the end of the day, put that "toy" 300D in the hands of any skilled photographer and he'll take photos that'll knock your socks off. And short of taking it to Iraq, it'll can serve that photographer well for a good long time.
 
Just when I thought I had you mesmerized by my charms. LOL. I
knew I shouldn't have shown you that pic of me. ;)
Yeah, you said you shouldn't post it and then you went and did! LOL!
You're pushing it, baby! ;)
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and
tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
Honest, it wasn't me.

Well, unless you liked the pic. Then, yeah, it was me. LOL.
Yeah, you said you shouldn't post it and then you went and did! LOL!
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
I forgot that they have sample pages available on Amazon to read.
Geez, what a book! I've learned so much already from jsut reading
the pages available on Amazon! I'm in the process of ordering right
now. I'm just picking out a couple books for the kids to hit the
$25 free shipping! LOL!

Thanks again for the recco!
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
I was thinking the cactus would be covering the right hand side and the sky would occupy the left, but I guess I forgot about the left hand horizon.
How are you going to get a GND filter to only apply to the sky and
not to the cactus as well?
How come? I've never tired this, but go to manual, meter on the
cactus, set the shutter and aperature, stick on the filter, and
shoot. I think it should work. What am I missing?

That said, your Photoshop idea might give a more interesting pic.
But the two would be different.
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and
tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
By george I think I've got it!!! Do I?

Ok, I read on the Amazon excerpt that 'stops' are just doubled from on to the next. f stops were completely meaningless to me before. I knwew that 2.8 was a big opening letting more light in and that 22 was small, letting less light in, and that I could use that to adjust my depth of field. I also made the logical assumption that slower shuttter speeds let more light in. However thanks to your link to Amazon I learned all about the pricipal of doubling! Now I know that my aperture and shutter speeds are directly related mathematically - if I increase the aperture one stop then I have to slow the shutter speed by one stop to let the same amount of light in. Now I can change my depth of field and instantly know not only to change the shutter speed, but exactly what to change it to! Cool!

So now I get to thinking - ok, let's say I want a picture of a guy on a bicycle going by and auto would set this exposure to f5.6 at 1/125 of a second. I want the mountains in the distance a blur. So I open up the lens nice and wide for a shallow depth of field to f2.8. That means I've increased the amount of light let in thru my wider opening, by 2 stops. Now 1/125 of a second is too long an exposure, so I have to increase my shutter speed by 2 stops to compensate, so I go to 1/500. Correct so far?

That's all I could get from the book on Amazon so I'll have to read the rest when it arrives upon my doorstep! But, I think it put me on track to figure out the rest. I'm figuring that this doubling thing is working pretty nicely so I'm going to assume it continues...

Ok, Now I decide that this guy is really flying fast! If I shoot him at 1/500 he's going to come out blurry. So I need a faster shutter. I want to increase my shutter to 1/1000 but if I do that I'd have to open my lens further to let in more light, but I can't. So, - oh please let me be right! - I say ok, I need to change to a faster film! I was using ISO 200 so how about I switch to ISO 400. Now I can freeze him and maintain my shallow depth of field! Did I do it or do I have a dark blurry blob? LOL!

Ok, If that was right I can even take it a step further - That's one reason why pros have extra bodies - so they can load them with different speed film. If I didn't have an extra body with me with the other film though, I could change my lens to a faster one, right?!! Did I, did I, did I do it? HUH??!!!!!!

Lonnit wondering if I'll be proud or humiliated!!!!! LOL!
 
Yes, this book is for you. But you've probably already figured out 50% of what it's going to teach you, just from those few pages!

Unless my math is wrong, your examples are correct.

OK, that was your first lesson. Remember, I was gonna start teaching, right? That'll be $50, please. ;)

PS -- with the digital camera, you don't need the multiple bodies. You can just dial in the ISO you want. One of the REALLY NICE things about digital.
By george I think I've got it!!! Do I?

Ok, I read on the Amazon excerpt that 'stops' are just doubled from
on to the next. f stops were completely meaningless to me before. I
knwew that 2.8 was a big opening letting more light in and that 22
was small, letting less light in, and that I could use that to
adjust my depth of field. I also made the logical assumption that
slower shuttter speeds let more light in. However thanks to your
link to Amazon I learned all about the pricipal of doubling! Now I
know that my aperture and shutter speeds are directly related
mathematically - if I increase the aperture one stop then I have to
slow the shutter speed by one stop to let the same amount of light
in. Now I can change my depth of field and instantly know not only
to change the shutter speed, but exactly what to change it to! Cool!

So now I get to thinking - ok, let's say I want a picture of a guy
on a bicycle going by and auto would set this exposure to f5.6 at
1/125 of a second. I want the mountains in the distance a blur. So
I open up the lens nice and wide for a shallow depth of field to
f2.8. That means I've increased the amount of light let in thru my
wider opening, by 2 stops. Now 1/125 of a second is too long an
exposure, so I have to increase my shutter speed by 2 stops to
compensate, so I go to 1/500. Correct so far?

That's all I could get from the book on Amazon so I'll have to read
the rest when it arrives upon my doorstep! But, I think it put me
on track to figure out the rest. I'm figuring that this doubling
thing is working pretty nicely so I'm going to assume it
continues...

Ok, Now I decide that this guy is really flying fast! If I shoot
him at 1/500 he's going to come out blurry. So I need a faster
shutter. I want to increase my shutter to 1/1000 but if I do that
I'd have to open my lens further to let in more light, but I can't.
So, - oh please let me be right! - I say ok, I need to change to a
faster film! I was using ISO 200 so how about I switch to ISO 400.
Now I can freeze him and maintain my shallow depth of field! Did I
do it or do I have a dark blurry blob? LOL!

Ok, If that was right I can even take it a step further - That's
one reason why pros have extra bodies - so they can load them with
different speed film. If I didn't have an extra body with me with
the other film though, I could change my lens to a faster one,
right?!! Did I, did I, did I do it? HUH??!!!!!!

Lonnit wondering if I'll be proud or humiliated!!!!! LOL!
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
Yes, this book is for you. But you've probably already figured
out 50% of what it's going to teach you, just from those few pages!
That's fine with me - I can't wait to devour the other 50%!
Unless my math is wrong, your examples are correct.
I'm flying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, the light bulb has finally gone off! I can't believe it's that simple and yet it took this long to discover the secret! Man, all those wasted and missed shots!

See I told you I just eat up that tech stuff! I read it last night after 1am. This morning I woke up early, couldn't sleep with all this running thru my head! I had the revelation that I could extend the concept into film speed and lenses and it was over - all I could do was run examples in my head. Oh, and then it dawned on me precisely how I should have had my settings the other night when I totally blew the exposure on a picture of my mother in law and sister in law. I had been fooling around with trying to grab a candlit pict of her while we sang Happy Birthday. When we moved to the living room I was trying to do the blown shot near a bright lamp. Totally blew it - but now I know EXACTLY what I should have done! Sooo cool!
OK, that was your first lesson. Remember, I was gonna start
teaching, right? That'll be $50, please. ;)
Wait a minute bud, class didn't start - you only gave me the materials lists so far!!!!;) LOL!!!!! Besides, that $50 is needed for a 50mm prime! LOL! See I have to tellyou prime b/c that seems to be your soft spot! LOL!
PS -- with the digital camera, you don't need the multiple bodies.
You can just dial in the ISO you want. One of the REALLY NICE
things about digital.
Exactly! Sooo convenient!

Thanks again!
Lonnit, on cloud 9!
By george I think I've got it!!! Do I?

Ok, I read on the Amazon excerpt that 'stops' are just doubled from
on to the next. f stops were completely meaningless to me before. I
knwew that 2.8 was a big opening letting more light in and that 22
was small, letting less light in, and that I could use that to
adjust my depth of field. I also made the logical assumption that
slower shuttter speeds let more light in. However thanks to your
link to Amazon I learned all about the pricipal of doubling! Now I
know that my aperture and shutter speeds are directly related
mathematically - if I increase the aperture one stop then I have to
slow the shutter speed by one stop to let the same amount of light
in. Now I can change my depth of field and instantly know not only
to change the shutter speed, but exactly what to change it to! Cool!

So now I get to thinking - ok, let's say I want a picture of a guy
on a bicycle going by and auto would set this exposure to f5.6 at
1/125 of a second. I want the mountains in the distance a blur. So
I open up the lens nice and wide for a shallow depth of field to
f2.8. That means I've increased the amount of light let in thru my
wider opening, by 2 stops. Now 1/125 of a second is too long an
exposure, so I have to increase my shutter speed by 2 stops to
compensate, so I go to 1/500. Correct so far?

That's all I could get from the book on Amazon so I'll have to read
the rest when it arrives upon my doorstep! But, I think it put me
on track to figure out the rest. I'm figuring that this doubling
thing is working pretty nicely so I'm going to assume it
continues...

Ok, Now I decide that this guy is really flying fast! If I shoot
him at 1/500 he's going to come out blurry. So I need a faster
shutter. I want to increase my shutter to 1/1000 but if I do that
I'd have to open my lens further to let in more light, but I can't.
So, - oh please let me be right! - I say ok, I need to change to a
faster film! I was using ISO 200 so how about I switch to ISO 400.
Now I can freeze him and maintain my shallow depth of field! Did I
do it or do I have a dark blurry blob? LOL!

Ok, If that was right I can even take it a step further - That's
one reason why pros have extra bodies - so they can load them with
different speed film. If I didn't have an extra body with me with
the other film though, I could change my lens to a faster one,
right?!! Did I, did I, did I do it? HUH??!!!!!!

Lonnit wondering if I'll be proud or humiliated!!!!! LOL!
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and
tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
Hehe. No, the only reason I had primes in that picture was because the guy didn't think I owned the primes.

Unfortunately, I have a soft spot for LENSES.

My current collection:

24/1.4
35/1.4
50/1.4
50/1.0
85/1.2
135/2
200/1.8
400/4 DO IS
500/4 IS
16-35/2.8
24-70/2.8
70-200/2.8 IS
100-400 IS
28-135 IS

Whew! And that doesn't count the 1.4x-II and 2x-II teleconverters!

Sounds like you're gonna enjoy the book.

Too bad you weren't here on the forum a few years ago (when the D30 was released). There were SO many more informative posts about technical issues back then (a lot fewer people, and typically pretty bright and friendly) that good threads didn't get drowned out as much. You'd have learned a lot.

You would've loved guys like KarlG . . . excellent for understanding DOF.

Now you'll have to settle for learning from me. LOL.
Wait a minute bud, class didn't start - you only gave me the
materials lists so far!!!!;) LOL!!!!! Besides, that $50 is needed
for a 50mm prime! LOL! See I have to tellyou prime b/c that seems
to be your soft spot! LOL!
--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

'Since we can't keep crime in check, why don't we legalize it and tax it out of business?' -- Will Rogers
 
Hehe. No, the only reason I had primes in that picture was because
the guy didn't think I owned the primes.

Unfortunately, I have a soft spot for LENSES.

My current collection:

24/1.4
35/1.4
50/1.4
50/1.0
85/1.2
135/2
200/1.8
400/4 DO IS
500/4 IS
16-35/2.8
24-70/2.8
70-200/2.8 IS
100-400 IS
28-135 IS
That 100-400 sounds like lots of fun! I'm making 300 my cutoff point. When I was using my old SLR I had an 80-200 but was always aggravated by it falling short. I dont' want to do that this time.

What do you shoot with the 500?
Whew! And that doesn't count the 1.4x-II and 2x-II teleconverters!
Shooting nosehairs on the man in the moon?
Sounds like you're gonna enjoy the book.
You know it!
Too bad you weren't here on the forum a few years ago (when the D30
was released). There were SO many more informative posts about
technical issues back then (a lot fewer people, and typically
pretty bright and friendly) that good threads didn't get drowned
out as much. You'd have learned a lot.
I'm sure I'll learn much. Look how far I've come in a week! :) I think my final decision is the 10D with a canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 ll USM (about $200?) and a canon DF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (about $400). -I'd really like that 2nd one to be a bit faster but this is about all the budget is going to allow. I'm trying to cover the range of wide angle thru 300. The 28-105 gives me a perfect range for everyday shooting. The other will be great when I really need to get in close.
You would've loved guys like KarlG . . . excellent for
understanding DOF.

Now you'll have to settle for learning from me. LOL.
LOL! Personally I've been having a great time here. The people here and at 10D are super. I even had a blast a few mo ago when a bunch of us tried our hand at photoshop-salvaging a potentially good pict for someone. I love it over there too! Honestly, I couldn't get thru this buy without this forum! Oh, and of course the reviews!!! Yeesh! Now that is an enormous body of work in itself! I was soooo impressed. It was after reading the 10D review back in March that I started hanging out here. I dropped off b.c. I didn't get the camera yet, but now that I'm ready to buy I'm back to stay! :)

Thanks again!
Lonnit
 
..that will allow you to progress as a photographer more easily. If you have had the 10D in mind for so long and purchase the 300D you will always wonder if you have done the right thing. There are inflexible options on the 300 that MIGHT hold you back. However if you feel you will be satisfied with that then pay $500 less for the 300.

Personally I would go for the 10D. I did and lov its flexibility.

M
Can anyone explain the real metering diff between 300D and 10D? I'm
now startign to have a hard time justifying $500 for the metering
diff and a plastic body. I don't think the ISO3200 nor the extra
consecutive frames will make much of a difference to me. My problem
is that the lenses I want come over a grand - that $500 would go a
long way towards lenses. After 6 mo of waiting to buy the D10 I'm
finally ready and I can't imagine anything else. Now the 300D comes
along and I"m scared that I'll miss out on something! What will the
extra $ get me for real?

Thanks!
Lonnit
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top