one lens for both portrait and macro (Nikon DX)

neotanveer

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Hello,

first, let me state that i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.

Tanveer Ahsan
Bangladesh
 
Solution
... i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.
First a few points:

Macro lenses tend to be quite expensive. They tend to cost more than your current camera and lens together. In the current...
Hello,

first, let me state that i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.
The closest that I can think of in the Nikon DX 85mm f3.5 VR Micro.

Review

Note that "Micro" is what Nikon calls "Macro".

Probably not ideal for portraits, but the alternative FX 85mm f/1.8 is quite expensive and doesn't have VR. This lens would be hopeless for macro.
 
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Any lens can "do" portraits, it's all a matter of what you want and to what extent.

First choose the focal length. It doesn't have to be precise, just a rough estimate. If you're not sure, take a photo with your 35mm lens and then split it to four pieces of equal size. Each rectangle is the composition you would have with a doubled focal length -- i.e., 70mm. Use your photos and experience to see if you want something longer or shorter.

If you want to shoot macro with a 1:1 magnification, that really narrows down your options. There are some lenses in the 40-60mm range whose maximum relative aperture is f/2.8 or f/2, and some in the 85-105mm range with a maximum relative aperture of f/2.8 or smaller. There are also some longer lenses.
 
That's going to be tough. Another issue is that a clinically sharp macro lens might not be the best lens for portraiture, where a bit of softness might be desirable.

But you are fortunate that your camera can accept lenses that other Nikons cannot.

I would suggest these two old lenses, which together would probably cost you less than US$100:
  • Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/3.5
  • Nikkor 50 mm f/1.8 Series E
I own both and recommend them, but be aware that they will be fully manual on your camera: you'll have to manually focus and (I think) guess exposure.
 
Hello,

first, let me state that i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.

Tanveer Ahsan
Bangladesh
Would extension tubes help you? They can be cheap or expensive. Buy your portrait lens, then add extension tubes for macro work.

This is Part 1 of a 4-part tutorial that discusses macro lenses, close-up lenses, extension tubes, and reverse-mount lenses for macro work.

--
Lance H
 
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... i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.
First a few points:

Macro lenses tend to be quite expensive. They tend to cost more than your current camera and lens together. In the current catalogue, the only Nikon macro lens that costs less is the AF-S DX Micro-Nikkor 40mm f/2.8G. Since that lens is so close in focal length to your current lens, there wouldn't be much point in getting it for portrait work.

Macro lenses tend to be very sharp, but slow to autofocus. These are not necessarily the best attributes for a portrait lens. You should be aware that this is part of the compromise you will be making to save money.

There is no one ideal focal length for taking portraits. You can take portraits with your 35mm lens. On DX cameras like your D3300, I use focal lengths between about 18mm and 200mm to take portraits. The reason for the wide range of focal lengths is that not all portraits are framed the same. The focal length required depends on the distance from camera to subject, the orientation of the camera (long side of frame horizontal or vertical - called respectively landscape and portrait orientation), the aspect ratio of the final image (ratio of width to height) and the amount of the subject I want in the frame. For instance I would use 200mm for a tight head shot taken from about 3m distance (Just the head filling the frame in portrait orientation cropped for an 8" x 10" print). I might use 18mm for a group portrait of a cricket team standing/kneeling in two or three rows.

When taking portraits that are intended to be flattering of adult subjects, best results are usually obtained if the distance to the subject is over 2.5m. I tend to use 3m as a starting point and adjust forward or backward depending on the shape of the subject's face and its angle to the camera. Flatter faces or faces not perpendicular to the camera get a shorter distance than faces that are narrow or have prominent features directly facing the camera. A typical human head is about 30cm tall. For a head and shoulders shot from 3m in which the head was 1/2 the height of that same 8x10 frame, I'd use a 105mm lens on DX. For a head & shoulders shot in landscape orientation with the head again being 1/2 height of the frame, I'd use 85mm. Looser framings or shorter subject distances need a shorter focal length. In portrait orientation from 3m on DX, 85mm frames an area of about 55cm x 85cm (uncropped).

Some people like really shallow Depth of Field in their portraits, and think they need a very fast lens to achieve this. However, with the focal lengths and subject distances I use, I often find myself stopping down to f/4 or even as much as f/8 to get sufficient DoF to keep enough of the subject sharp. It's only when you use shorter focal lengths at portrait distances that you need a fast lens to get a shallow DoF. Macro lenses are usually stopped down quite a bit to get adequate DoF for small subjects. So you do not necessarily need a fast lens for your purposes.

With that and your budget limitations in mind, the most obvious macro lens for your purposes in Nikon's current catalogue is the AF-S DX Micro Nikkor 85mm f/3.5G ED VR. Two other possibilities are the AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED, and the AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.
 
Solution
That's going to be tough. Another issue is that a clinically sharp macro lens might not be the best lens for portraiture, where a bit of softness might be desirable.

But you are fortunate that your camera can accept lenses that other Nikons cannot.

I would suggest these two old lenses, which together would probably cost you less than US$100:
  • Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/3.5
  • Nikkor 50 mm f/1.8 Series E
I own both and recommend them, but be aware that they will be fully manual on your camera: you'll have to manually focus and (I think) guess exposure.

--
http://therefractedlight.blogspot.com
I used the 55mm Micro_Nikkor on a NEX-5N (an APS-C camera) for several years, and found it good for almost everything. Portraits, macro, landscapes, street ..

Naturally you have to focus manually. This was easy on the NEX, but I don't know how easy it is on your camera.



db78fd509c844166a2d14ac988e7aa6b.jpg
 
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As far as I can see from your gear list, you also have an 18-55mm zoom. You can use that for portraiture at the long end. The DoF may be a bit deeper than you wish, but there are other ways to make the subject pop than blurring the background.

For macro, the less expensive solution is screw-in close up lenses. They come in many levels of quality, but some are good; I hope someone will chime in with recommendations.

On my APS-C Canon I have used the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro for portraits. It has an FX(!) Nikon counterpart, which I would recommend if you must have a prime.

Normally, I don't like primes for portraiture, as I think the distance to the model should be determined by the interaction between photographer and model, not by the field of view of a lens.

Good luck and good light.
 
My choice would be either the Tamron 60mm or 90mm macro. These can be found very cheap used and are excellent for both macro and portraits. On DX I would get the 60 over the 90 because the focal length is more versatile and it has beautiful bokeh.
 
... i live in Bangladesh. Compared to the earnings, camera equipment are quite expensive here. therefore, i have to make every cent count. Currently I use Nikon D3300 and 35mm f1.8. and only use my cameras for travel, and family photos. I don't intend to ever work as a professional photographer.

Currently i am looking for a 2nd lens. for financial restriction, i am unable to buy one lens for portrait, and one lens for Macro. Therefore i'm looking for a lens that can do both. money is an issue, so the cheaper the better.

please advise as to which lens will be ideal for my need.
First a few points:

Macro lenses tend to be quite expensive. They tend to cost more than your current camera and lens together. In the current catalogue, the only Nikon macro lens that costs less is the AF-S DX Micro-Nikkor 40mm f/2.8G. Since that lens is so close in focal length to your current lens, there wouldn't be much point in getting it for portrait work.

Macro lenses tend to be very sharp, but slow to autofocus. These are not necessarily the best attributes for a portrait lens. You should be aware that this is part of the compromise you will be making to save money.

There is no one ideal focal length for taking portraits. You can take portraits with your 35mm lens. On DX cameras like your D3300, I use focal lengths between about 18mm and 200mm to take portraits. The reason for the wide range of focal lengths is that not all portraits are framed the same. The focal length required depends on the distance from camera to subject, the orientation of the camera (long side of frame horizontal or vertical - called respectively landscape and portrait orientation), the aspect ratio of the final image (ratio of width to height) and the amount of the subject I want in the frame. For instance I would use 200mm for a tight head shot taken from about 3m distance (Just the head filling the frame in portrait orientation cropped for an 8" x 10" print). I might use 18mm for a group portrait of a cricket team standing/kneeling in two or three rows.

When taking portraits that are intended to be flattering of adult subjects, best results are usually obtained if the distance to the subject is over 2.5m. I tend to use 3m as a starting point and adjust forward or backward depending on the shape of the subject's face and its angle to the camera. Flatter faces or faces not perpendicular to the camera get a shorter distance than faces that are narrow or have prominent features directly facing the camera. A typical human head is about 30cm tall. For a head and shoulders shot from 3m in which the head was 1/2 the height of that same 8x10 frame, I'd use a 105mm lens on DX. For a head & shoulders shot in landscape orientation with the head again being 1/2 height of the frame, I'd use 85mm. Looser framings or shorter subject distances need a shorter focal length. In portrait orientation from 3m on DX, 85mm frames an area of about 55cm x 85cm (uncropped).

Some people like really shallow Depth of Field in their portraits, and think they need a very fast lens to achieve this. However, with the focal lengths and subject distances I use, I often find myself stopping down to f/4 or even as much as f/8 to get sufficient DoF to keep enough of the subject sharp. It's only when you use shorter focal lengths at portrait distances that you need a fast lens to get a shallow DoF. Macro lenses are usually stopped down quite a bit to get adequate DoF for small subjects. So you do not necessarily need a fast lens for your purposes.

With that and your budget limitations in mind, the most obvious macro lens for your purposes in Nikon's current catalogue is the AF-S DX Micro Nikkor 85mm f/3.5G ED VR. Two other possibilities are the AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED, and the AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.
thank you very much for your valuable advice. out of the 2 lenses below, which one will you suggest for me?

1. Nikon 85mm f3.5 micro

2. Tamron 60mm f2 macro

thank you.
 
... out of the 2 lenses below, which one will you suggest for me?

1. Nikon 85mm f3.5 micro

2. Tamron 60mm f2 macro
That would depend on how you prefer to frame your portraits and on how many of your macro subjects tend to be animate.

From 3m, a 60mm lens on DX frames an area of about 1.2m x 0.8m. That's more than you need for head & shoulders portraits but is good for half-height portraits. An 85mm lens would be better for head & shoulder portraits. It's even a bit too short in portrait orientation, but very good in landscape orientation.

If your macro photography is going to be of insects and other small animals, a longer working distance is to be preferred, so as to reduce the chance of frightening your subjects. A longer working distance is also less likely you block light falling on the subject. The longer focal length gives a longer working distance.
 
[...]

thank you very much for your valuable advice. out of the 2 lenses below, which one will you suggest for me?

1. Nikon 85mm f3.5 micro

2. Tamron 60mm f2 macro

thank you.
I'd still suggest the Nikon 60mm f/2.8.

For portraiture, the 85mm is too dark, IMHO. I know it's a compromise, but nevertheless.

The Tamron have a few drawbacks according to photozone.de: vignetting wide open, barrel distortion and slow, noisy AF. One of the uses of a macro lens is for copy work, and even slight distortion will compromise that use. The vignetting may be insignificant two stops from wide open, but to me it's a sign of a construction being limited by price constraints. You may think that slow AF is insignificant for portraiture, but sometimes the expression you want to capture is there only for a short while, so you have no time to wait for focus.

These are my personal opinions and I'm in no way an authority on this matter. I am sure a lot of photographers get fine results with either of these lenses.

Good luck and good light.
 
[...]

thank you very much for your valuable advice. out of the 2 lenses below, which one will you suggest for me?

1. Nikon 85mm f3.5 micro

2. Tamron 60mm f2 macro

thank you.
I'd still suggest the Nikon 60mm f/2.8.

For portraiture, the 85mm is too dark, IMHO. I know it's a compromise, but nevertheless.
"Too dark" here could mean not letting in enough light or too deep a Depth of Field (DoF.)

At f/3.5 one could shoot at 1/250 (1 / (2 x crop factor x focal length) for critical sharpness) at base ISO in light as low as heavy overcast (best natural light for portraits IMO), and still have a third stop to spare.

If you meant "gives too deep a DoF" you must be used to shorter focal lengths, longer working distances and/or full frame sensors.

f/3.5 would give too much DoF on a 60mm but probably not on an 85mm. At 3m on DX, f/3.5 on 85mm gives a DoF of about 17cm, which is less than the depth of a typical human head. On DX from 3m using a 60mm you'll get twice that DoF. When shooting a H&S portrait with an 85mm lens I'll typically be at about f/4. From the same distance, I'd want f/2 on 60mm. For the same framing with 60mm I'd use f/4, but I'd have to shoot from 2.1m, which is too close for most adult subjects if you want a flattering perspective straight on.

A 60mm is a better choice than an 85mm only when one wants to shoot half-body or wider, IMO, and also IMO, f/3.5 is adequate for DoF when using an 85mm at a proper portrait shooting distance.
These are my personal opinions and I'm in no way an authority on this matter. I am sure a lot of photographers get fine results with either of these lenses.
Well, I'm not a pro, but I did learn from observing a couple of the best at work, and asking them questions.
 
A 60mm is a better choice than an 85mm only when one wants to shoot half-body or wider, IMO, and also IMO, f/3.5 is adequate for DoF when using an 85mm at a proper portrait shooting distance.
Everything you said is true, but not everyone has the same limits on acceptable focal lengths for portraits. If the lens is being used for casual portraits indoors, or other general photography then the wider faster lens may be preferable.
 

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