Should I sell my five month old canon 5D3 for a mirrorless?

Tehilla

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Hi!

Last week I was looking into a point and shoot camera to serve as a home cam. At a second thought, I'm now realizing that perhaps I could kill two birds with one stone and sell my new heavy, bukly, 5D III and buy a real good mirrorless instead. I only shoot kids, and by the end of a session I can hardly run after them with the canon + 85 1.8 lens. Not to mention with the Godox 860 flash I attach when it gets dark, which basically makes me feel like my I'm carrying a bag full of stones while getting up and down non stop. It's a pain, to say the least.

Q: Is it crazy to sell the 5D3 for a mirrorless around the same price? Is the image quality and speed that much less? Which mirrorless is the best? Will crop do? Or downgrading from full frame not ideal?
 
Before you convert to mirrorless camera be sure to trial as there is much hype surrounding mirrorless and much compromise in actual use, particularly coming from high end optical.

My favorite quote from one of these forums is that nobody brags about how much fun it is to use their Sony (referring to the full frame beasts).

I don't have a Sony FF but I do have a current model m43 dSLR. Because of its weight and size I use the mirrorless for my personal pursuits quite a bit but in actual use I frequently wonder why--that has nothing to do with image quality.

It is quite possible in the worst case scenario you will find the EVF execrable compared to full frame optical, the controls needlessly complex, the handling slow and the weight advantage not what you hoped for, particularly with longer and wider lenses. You may find the "flashies" to indicate over and underexposure further degrade the EVF and bear no relation to what the sensor can actually capture. You may find even with magnification and zebras manual focus is not what it should be. Battery life may not be what is promised and you may discover that the modified computer you call a camera is subject to its own electronic peculiarities.

Or you may find mirrorless a magical world or rainbows and unicorns and worth the financial beating you will take in the transaction.
 
Godox 860 flash
If you expect to continue using the flash, mirrorless or otherwise, then a DSLR is a good fit. Hooking a big flash up to a little mirrorless gets a little weird. You might try looking around for a Canon lens that is not as heavy as the 85mm.

Kelly Cook
 
Looks like his needs (or thoughts) have changed quite a lot since then, though. In that thread, he was asking about a small package to use when he doesn't want to grab his DSLR. Now he's looking for a full-on replacement to the DSLR, and is willing to pay more for it.
 
At a second thought, I'm now realizing that perhaps I could kill two birds with one stone and sell my new heavy, bukly, 5D III and buy a real good mirrorless instead.
Keep in mind that switching to a mirrorless system wouldn't necessarily yield significant weight reductions. The camera body would probably be a lot lighter, but you would still need to carry the lenses that you want to use, and those may or may not be smaller and lighter. To get smaller and lighter lenses, you will probably have to compromise in some areas: use a smaller sensor and/or a smaller maximum relative aperture, use primes instead of zooms, etc.
I only shoot kids,
I'm always amused that these phrases are only acceptable in photography circles :-P
and by the end of a session I can hardly run after them with the canon + 85 1.8 lens.
So, here is one example. If you want an equivalent kit (i.e., a combination that will give the same shallow depth of field you're currently getting with that lens wide open), you would need an 85mm f/1.8 on a Sony 35mm-format camera (a7-series or a9), or a 56mm f/1.2 lens with a Fuji X-series camera. The Sony lens is slightly bigger and longer than the Canon, and is roughly 50 grams lighter. The Fuji lens is slightly smaller and shorter, and is lighter by only 20 grams.

If you can compromise on that, however, you will get a smaller and lighter lens. The likes of the Fuji 50mm f/2, Sony 50mm f/1.8 (for APS-C), Olympus 45mm f/1.8 and Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7 all give a similar field of view on their respective cameras, but won't give as shallow a depth of field as your current lens when shot wide open.
Is the image quality and speed that much less?
You'll need to compare on a camera-to-camera basis, without drawing any conclusions on the type as a whole.
Which mirrorless is the best?
If you're looking for flagship material, these are your options:
  • Fujifilm X-T2
  • Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II
  • Panasonic GH5
  • Sony a7R II, a9 (35mm format) and a6500 (APS-C)
 
What do you expect from the switch?

Comparable full frame mirrorless cameras won't be much smaller and lighter if you attach proper lenses.

Comparable mirrorless cameras and lenses will be much more expensive if you want to use native glass (Sony in particular).

The lens selection will be significantly smaller if you want to use full featured native glass and want to avoid clumsy, unreliable adapter solutions.

Autofocus is improving but not up to DSLR level at this point with the exception of the Sony a9.

Battery life is worse with mirrorless cameras in general so you have to bring more batteries.

And most importantly, you already own a great, reliable, proven and versatile Camera and the matching lenses. Why burn money making a switch?
 
What do you expect from the switch?gh
I hope to get same high quality results whith lighter weight.
Comparable full frame mirrorless cameras won't be much smaller and lighter if you attach proper lenses.

Comparable mirrorless cameras and lenses will be much more expensive if you want to use native glass (Sony in particular).

The lens selection will be significantly smaller if you want to use full featured native glass and want to avoid clumsy, unreliable adapter solutions.

Autofocus is improving but not up to DSLR level at this point with the exception of the Sony a9.

Battery life is worse with mirrorless cameras in general so you have to bring more batteries.

And most importantly, you already own a great, reliable, proven and versatile Camera and the matching lenses. Why burn money making a switch?
Because carrying the 5DIII with a lens and when it gets dark the flash with a mini softbox on it is getting to be impossible for me. I come back home from photo session feeling weak and out of energy. I sometimes loose great shots because getting up and down every second takes effort time.

If sell the 5D III I can buy either the Sony 6500 or Fuji X-T2 and add a bit for the 85 1.8 lens. I'll also get the 20 mm 2.8 lens which should be great for serving as a good home cam and for causual traveling shoots.

What do the experts think about getting rid of trustworthy good old canon?

And do I need to sell my canon lenes or an adapter is just the same?
 
Hi - if you don't use the full AF capabilities of the 5D3 you could just swap to the 6D (mark1) which is 200g lighter with essentially the same image quality, and which you could adjust to working with fairly easily since you are already a Canon user. You would probably only save a few 100g more with the Sony by the time you factor in the weight of the EF adapter (plus you'll probably need extra batteries carried somewhere).

One other thing - if you carry your 5D3 around your neck try using a proper sling strap across you shoulder instead - that removes a lot of the burden of carrying it.

Alan
 
Hi!

Last week I was looking into a point and shoot camera to serve as a home cam. At a second thought, I'm now realizing that perhaps I could kill two birds with one stone and sell my new heavy, bukly, 5D III and buy a real good mirrorless instead. I only shoot kids, and by the end of a session I can hardly run after them with the canon + 85 1.8 lens. Not to mention with the Godox 860 flash I attach when it gets dark, which basically makes me feel like my I'm carrying a bag full of stones while getting up and down non stop. It's a pain, to say the least.

Q: Is it crazy to sell the 5D3 for a mirrorless around the same price? Is the image quality and speed that much less? Which mirrorless is the best? Will crop do? Or downgrading from full frame not ideal?
If weight is the main issue, why not sell the 5D3 and get a 6D2? You'll be able to stay in the Canon system, keep the lens you have, and get better image quality --- all while saving a couple hundred grams.

If you do go mirrorless, you can get a Fuji X-T2 (or X-T20) and a 50mm f/1.2. That combo will be very close to what you're getting with the 85mm f/1.8 on a FF. (It will be about 5mm shorter, but otherwise almost identical.) That is, if you can find one in stock...
 
Hi!

Last week I was looking into a point and shoot camera to serve as a home cam. At a second thought, I'm now realizing that perhaps I could kill two birds with one stone and sell my new heavy, bukly, 5D III and buy a real good mirrorless instead. I only shoot kids, and by the end of a session I can hardly run after them with the canon + 85 1.8 lens. Not to mention with the Godox 860 flash I attach when it gets dark, which basically makes me feel like my I'm carrying a bag full of stones while getting up and down non stop. It's a pain, to say the least.

Q: Is it crazy to sell the 5D3 for a mirrorless around the same price? Is the image quality and speed that much less? Which mirrorless is the best? Will crop do? Or downgrading from full frame not ideal?
If weight is the main issue, why not sell the 5D3 and get a 6D2? You'll be able to stay in the Canon system, keep the lens you have, and get better image quality --- all while saving a couple hundred grams.

If you do go mirrorless, you can get a Fuji X-T2 (or X-T20) and a 50mm f/1.2. That combo will be very close to what you're getting with the 85mm f/1.8 on a FF. (It will be about 5mm shorter, but otherwise almost identical.) That is, if you can find one in stock...
 
If you remember from a different post I started that at the same time I'm thinking of getting something lighter than the 5D III, I also desperately need a good point-and-shoot cam for home pics. After looking into this alot, it seems that if I get a good mirrorless such as the fuji, with the fuji FX 56 mm f/1.2 R for my professional work, and the 20 mm 2.8 lens for casual home shots, then I'm all set. Is that so? Or I'm imagining that a mirrorless around up to $2,000 will produce just as sharp, Bokeh, depth of feild and all like the 5D III?
In terms of bokeh and depth of field, you can get a very good approximation simply from the f-stop and crop factor.

Two full-frame cameras with 80mm f/1.8 lenses will give you the same depth of field.

To get exactly that same depth of field, you use a 50mm f/1.2 on a 1.5-crop-factor mirrorless like the Fuji.

So, comparing an 80mm f/1.8 full-frame and a 50mm f/1.2 crop-sensor, the only remaining variables are lens quality. Here I think you'll find that the Fuji lens blows the doors off the Canon 80mm. And in terms of low light, the Fuji X-T2 (or X-T20) will do better than the Canon 5Diii.

All said, I think you'll find the Fuji a step up in terms of image quality. What you give up is the Canon ecosystem.

There's also the matter of personal preference. If you have a way to rent or borrow a Fuji, I would start there.
 
Do you mention Fuji because of personal experience? Because the Sony's mirrorless like the 6500 are also real good...

Also - If I get the right lens will I be making up for the lack of full frame on the mirrorless? Or Full frame has other benefits that will make me regret selling the 5d3?
 
Do you mention Fuji because of personal experience? Because the Sony's mirrorless like the 6500 are also real good...
I mention Fuji for two reasons. One is personal experience. The other is that their lenses are unbeatable for the price.
Also - If I get the right lens will I be making up for the lack of full frame on the mirrorless? Or Full frame has other benefits that will make me regret selling the 5d3?
Yes. With the right lens, your crop sensor can do anything a FF can do. (Sometimes the lens doesn't exist, though. For instance, the standard 70-200mm f/2.8 Canon lens doesn't have any match in the Fuji world. You'd need a 47-133mm f/1.9. The closest you can get is the 40-140mm f/2.8, which is slower.)
 
Hi!

Last week I was looking into a point and shoot camera to serve as a home cam. At a second thought, I'm now realizing that perhaps I could kill two birds with one stone and sell my new heavy, bukly, 5D III and buy a real good mirrorless instead. I only shoot kids, and by the end of a session I can hardly run after them with the canon + 85 1.8 lens. Not to mention with the Godox 860 flash I attach when it gets dark, which basically makes me feel like my I'm carrying a bag full of stones while getting up and down non stop. It's a pain, to say the least.

Q: Is it crazy to sell the 5D3 for a mirrorless around the same price? Is the image quality and speed that much less? Which mirrorless is the best? Will crop do? Or downgrading from full frame not ideal?
 
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And in terms of low light, the Fuji X-T2 (or X-T20) will do better than the Canon 5Diii.
OP, rather than taking anyone's word for it, use the comparison tool: link

Keep in mind that, for the same depth of field, you would use a bigger relative aperture on the Fuji, by roughly one stop. So it would make more sense, for example, to examine ISO 6400 on the Canon against ISO 3200 on the Fuji, rather than the same ISO for both.
 
Also - If I get the right lens will I be making up for the lack of full frame on the mirrorless? Or Full frame has other benefits that will make me regret selling the 5d3?
I was sure I had linked to the article, but apparently I hadn't, so here it is: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care . I hope this clears some things up.

Don't think about this as a "lack of full frame." I detest the term "full frame," because it somehow implies that anything else is only partial. You could say that your DSLR "lacks Medium Format," that would be just as fair. These are simply differently sized slices of the same material.

One thing that often comes with a bigger sensor and the lens has no bearing on is the dynamic range the sensor is capable of capturing. But that is only necessarily true if the sensors are identical except for their size, and, of course, depends on the ISO you use. Here's a comparison of the cameras you're interested in: link . Notice that the a6300 is selected and not the a6500; that is because the latter hasn't been tested by Bill Claff, the man behind that useful chart and website, but I doubt it's much different than the a6300.
 
Do you mention Fuji because of personal experience? Because the Sony's mirrorless like the 6500 are also real good...

Also - If I get the right lens will I be making up for the lack of full frame on the mirrorless? Or Full frame has other benefits that will make me regret selling the 5d3?
Some full frame fans feel that the FF images have more crispness, especially straight out of the camera. Of course this also depends on lens quality, and the care in setting up the shot. A smaller sensor can also result in a crisp image, but post processing skill will come into play.

Kelly
 
Do you mention Fuji because of personal experience? Because the Sony's mirrorless like the 6500 are also real good...

Also - If I get the right lens will I be making up for the lack of full frame on the mirrorless? Or Full frame has other benefits that will make me regret selling the 5d3?
Some full frame fans feel that the FF images have more crispness, especially straight out of the camera. Of course this also depends on lens quality, and the care in setting up the shot. A smaller sensor can also result in a crisp image, but post processing skill will come into play.
I think this is misleading. Smaller sensors can produce the exact same image as larger sensors (crisp, contrasty, sharp, vivid, whatever) if they have the right lens attached. This is the point of equivalence.

I don't see any way in which identical images --- one from a FF camera, one from a crop --- would require different degrees of processing.
 
In terms of bokeh and depth of field, you can get a very good approximation simply from the f-stop and crop factor.
bokeh is largely lens-dependent, there are many factors at play, it's not predictable like dof is.
Two full-frame cameras with 80mm f/1.8 lenses will give you the same depth of field.

To get exactly that same depth of field, you use a 50mm f/1.2 on a 1.5-crop-factor mirrorless like the Fuji.

So, comparing an 80mm f/1.8 full-frame and a 50mm f/1.2 crop-sensor, the only remaining variables are lens quality. Here I think you'll find that the Fuji lens blows the doors off the Canon 80mm. And in terms of low light, the Fuji X-T2 (or X-T20) will do better than the Canon 5Diii.

All said, I think you'll find the Fuji a step up in terms of image quality.
fuji 56/1.2: $999

canon 85/1.8: $369

sigma 85/1.4: $1199

that sigma lens is faster on ff than the fuji 56/1.2 is on crop, and it has better p.q., for only $200 more.

ff always has the best lens selection... if you don't want overpriced fuji lenses, the canon 85/1.8 is a much better buy.

--
dan
 
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