Fujifilm XT-2 Color Problem

n/t

Are you shooting RAW or JPG? Any filter in front of your lens?

You should be able to see on the camera screen that the colors are wrong, prior to shooting, and you can try correcting this by shifting the White Balance.

White balance - light is bluer at high altitude even on mountains and is why film users used skylight 1A, 1B filters. You can change the white balance in-camera - or in post if shooting raw.

Atmospheric haze and dirty scratched windows can cause the blur but it may also be that the camera is focusing on the window rather than through it - especially if the window is scratched/dirty not really clear. Get the lens as close to the window as possible (without touching - vibration) and as square to it as you can. Manual focus if necessary.

Vic

--
The sky is full of holes that let the rain get in, the holes are very small - that's why the rain is thin.
Spike Milligan. Writer, comedian, poet, Goon. 1918 - 2002

levelchange said:

Hi everyone

I used to use Nikon D300s before I got my Fujifilm XT-2.I am adapting my new camera and I encountered some problems that I couldn't solve.Usually I take plane pictures from above and ground.On ground I have no problem but in the air I have.Am I doing something wrong ? Thanks for helping.

Click to expand...

Besides what Vic already mentioned:

levelchange said:

Taken with fuji 10-24

Here are some examples



In this photo the colors seems very bad .

Click to expand...

'Bad' in what way? Do the colors not match what you see with your own eyes?

levelchange said:

When i took same shots with my Nikon D300s it is much better.

Click to expand...

Likewise, do these D300 colors match better what you see with your own eyes? And if so, is that what you're striving for?

Maybe you could show a picture taken with the D300, so that we can better see what it is you're referring to.

levelchange said:

Also in this photo sharpness very different my Nikon D300s.

Click to expand...

In image 1, you're using f/22, which will suffer (tremendously) from diffraction, so no wonder sharpness can suffer here.

In images 1 and 3, you're using ISO400. Although minor, ISO200 would give you slightly better pictures.

And again, show us an image from the D300, so that we can compare.

Generally, sharpness can be adjusted. But keep in mind that there are two basic types of sharpnesses: intrinsic sharpness, which relates to the quality of the hardware (lens, sensor resolution, etc.). At 24mm, you likely won't get the best sharpness from the 10-24mm lens (and certainly not at f/22). And then there is sharpness as a result of image processing. Here you can play around with the sharpness settings in the Fuji. Perhaps it is as simple as having stronger sharpness set in the D300 compared to the X-T2.