Best 200/4 for action?

I was about to hit "Buy Now" on an M42 Vivitar 200/3.5 when I had the thought.....
There are several Vivitar 200/3.5 versions available. I hope it is not the one I have:

I used it on a Nikon D50 some years ago after having it in a box for so many years, because I had never liked it. Resolution wise it is not so bad, but it can have muggy colors due to CA and other issues when used wide open.
agreed, that lens is weak sauce.

my copy had the same problems that you posted here; it just never really sharpens up, and i couldn't process my way out of it in post.

there are so many other good alternatives... for example, if you are using sony, and you need af, the 100-200 minolta af lens works pretty well: http://www.dyxum.com/reviews/lenses/Minolta-AF-100-200mm-F4.5_review60.html
 
Very interesting, but here is my I.Q. ratings, at full aperture, based on personal experience with these lenses:

1. Leica 180/3.4 Apo: 100

2. Canon 200/4.0 New FD: 90

3. Nikon 200/4.0 AIs: 85

4. Pentax 200/4.0 A: 80

5. Pentax 200/4.0 M: 75

Close to what you wrote, except for the Canon, a lot better than you think - you should try it.

As for larger apertures, I used 3 lenses, and they are more or less equivalent: Leica 180/2.8 (latest non Apo), Pentax 200/2.8 FA*, Tamron 180/2.5 SP Adaptall-II.
 
Two or three of these came with 67mm filter rings; the rest in 62mm or 58mm. I own one 67 with a built-in tripod ring and three 62s. Only the 67 gave me satisfying sharpness.: "AUTO VIVITAR TELEPHOTO 200mm 1:3.5 No. 3711378" in FD mount, adapted to Micro Four Thirds. The serial number 37xxxxx means it was made by Tokina.
A short report of this lens can be found here . You are perfectly correct, of the many 200/3.5 lenses only one or two can compete against brand names. Even that one could have CS nearly everywhere wide open. Well, Vivitar could have sold many lemones since the late 1979s.

CS
 
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I've been getting more confident with my MF tracking ability with teles and I wanted to know what the best 200/4 was as far as focus throw smoothness. I can do OK with my MC 135/2.8 now but it's a hair stiff and not quite long enough for what I want to do. How is the FD 200/4? I loved the focus action on all the FDs I had. Are push/pull focus lenses good for action?
 
Two or three of these came with 67mm filter rings; the rest in 62mm or 58mm. I own one 67 with a built-in tripod ring and three 62s. Only the 67 gave me satisfying sharpness.: "AUTO VIVITAR TELEPHOTO 200mm 1:3.5 No. 3711378" in FD mount, adapted to Micro Four Thirds. The serial number 37xxxxx means it was made by Tokina.
A short report of this lens can be found here . You are perfectly correct, of the many 200/3.5 lenses only one or two can compete against brand names. Even that one could have CS nearly everywhere wide open. Well, Vivitar could have sold many lemones since the late 1979s.

CS
While that Vivitar lens, the Series One AF (autofocus), does indeed use a 67mm filter, it was introduced at least a decade after the manual-focus 67mm Vivitar that I have.
 
Two or three of these came with 67mm filter rings; the rest in 62mm or 58mm. I own one 67 with a built-in tripod ring and three 62s. Only the 67 gave me satisfying sharpness.: "AUTO VIVITAR TELEPHOTO 200mm 1:3.5 No. 3711378" in FD mount, adapted to Micro Four Thirds. The serial number 37xxxxx means it was made by Tokina.
A short report of this lens can be found here . You are perfectly correct, of the many 200/3.5 lenses only one or two can compete against brand names. Even that one could have CS nearly everywhere wide open. Well, Vivitar could have sold many lemones since the late 1979s.

CS
While that Vivitar lens, the Series One AF (autofocus), does indeed use a 67mm filter, it was introduced at least a decade after the manual-focus 67mm Vivitar that I have.
 
The Canon 200/4.0 FD New has an excellent I.Q., already wide open.

The focusing is a mixed bag: it allows a very good minimum distance - 1.5m - but is very direct and very light (internal). It is 'fast' but it requires small accurate movements, takes a while to be used to it.

And in general, all 180/200 f4.0 are challenging to focus on Micro Four Third - they are the equivalent of 400 mm lenses! Should be easier on APS-C or FF cameras. (?)
 
And in general, all 180/200 f4.0 are challenging to focus on Micro Four Third - they are the equivalent of 400 mm lenses! Should be easier on APS-C or FF cameras. (?)
Yeah, I considered this 5 hours ago, when I ordered a 200/4 (Konica Hexanon) for $90 shipped. I have only one camera body, and it's not stabilized. If the 200 proves too hard to focus, I'll either forgo using anything longer than 100mm or buy a Super Takumar 150/4. In truth, I already own a 150.4--a vintage Olympus Pen FT. But my Hexanon 100/2.8 and vintage Pen F 100/3.5 deliver sharper images at the same magnification so I never use it.
 
Agreed. The nFD 200 F4 is my favorite long distance street photography lens. Not as big, easy to focus, out in daylight where fast lenses are not needed is perfect for long standoff style of street photography. Also, small filter sizes are nice.

If you are looking to have great glass with a tiny bit of a premium, you should also look at the 80-200 F4L. Specifically the L push pull version. I have not tried the non L 2 touch version. My 80-200 F4L is a beast in a tiny package. If you are a pixelpeeper then the F4L is for you. Sharp as a pin and focuses very fast. Pus pull may be a turn off for some, but for street it is a godsend if you want to go from portrait to long in a flash. However, it does cost somewhere between 250-300 though. Got mine in Japan for a good price.
 
I'm thinking pretty hard about the 80-200L. At the shutter speeds I use I could definitely get away without stabilization, and it would work pretty well with an A6000. The single ring for focus + zoom sounds awesome too. If the IQ is good wide open it's worth the price IMO.
 
Are you talking about the Pentax M300/4.0 or A 300/4.0?

Did you use it? How is the I.Q. at full aperture?

I could be interested in that lens.
 
This is the best lens I have ever tried. Period. When I tried it out in Japan, I knew I had to buy it. With tourist tax reduction I got it for a very good price. But it did have some scratches and minor middle haze, but you get amazing results such as this one I took a few minutes ago:



Those leaves are so sharp, you can use it as a katana blade!
Those leaves are so sharp, you can use it as a katana blade!

That was shot wide open at F4. Stepping down will only get better. I almost swear that every aperture setting is sharp. At F32 I don't see much diffraction. It is indeed bigger and more expensive than the 200 F4 but this is a very good investment. Again, the image taken above was taken with a lens with mild haze that mildly affects contrast and some scratches that could also have minor effect on some sharpness but this lens is amazing and I'd jump on it when you see it at a good price.
 
Several decades ago, the Novoflex Noflexar 200mm f/3.8 would have possibly fit that description best. There's one for sale at http://www.ebay.com/itm/171781051841 right now (for more money that I'd be willing to pay, though)... I cannot say much about image quality, though, except that Novoflex lenses, although mostly implementing rather simple optical designs, used to have a good reputation. But it probably won't be the best choice if compactness matters...

Cheers,
Robert
 
Are you talking about the Pentax M300/4.0 or A 300/4.0?

Did you use it? How is the I.Q. at full aperture?

I could be interested in that lens.
I had Pentax 300 and Nikon 400. But it's not new. Donno how many hand ever held them. But the IQ is still good at 1 stop down.



IMO, full aperture IQ is rarely the strong point of these ancient big monsters. Nor their weight.

They were built to last, and they really can. Some even can pass the photographer's life.

Have to sale it because of the weight :( Still missing them.
 
Does anyone know how the FDn 200/4 compares to the FD 80-200L?
 
I've got both, so I'll head out and do some shooting so I'll show you.
 

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