3D Tracking

skutters

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Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers,. keV.
 
Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers.
There's no difference between tracking a subject around a (stationary) screen and tracking a moving subject.

In any case, I wouldn't expect Nikon 3D to do a very good job; certainly the D7100 does not perform well in this mode, particularly on a crowded footy field. YMMV, so let us know how you go. You might find that using maybe 9-Point central AF zone and tracking the subject yourself will give a better result.

Sony Lock-On and tracking works particularly well, and there a various ways of acquiring a subject to track. I love it; tracking will even continue when a subject (briefly) leaves the frame.
 
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Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers.
There's no difference between tracking a subject around a (stationary) screen and tracking a moving subject.

In any case, I wouldn't expect Nikon 3D to do a very good job; certainly the D7100 does not perform well in this mode, particularly on a crowded footy field. YMMV, so let us know how you go. You might find that using maybe 9-Point central AF zone and tracking the subject yourself will give a better result.

Sony Lock-On and tracking works particularly well, and there a various ways of acquiring a subject to track. I love it; tracking will even continue when a subject (briefly) leaves the frame.
Yeah I have always used Dynamic AF for my sport shooting just wondering when I would ever use 3 D tracking is it really useable.
 
Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers.
There's no difference between tracking a subject around a (stationary) screen and tracking a moving subject.

In any case, I wouldn't expect Nikon 3D to do a very good job; certainly the D7100 does not perform well in this mode, particularly on a crowded footy field. YMMV, so let us know how you go. You might find that using maybe 9-Point central AF zone and tracking the subject yourself will give a better result.

Sony Lock-On and tracking works particularly well, and there a various ways of acquiring a subject to track. I love it; tracking will even continue when a subject (briefly) leaves the frame.
Yeah I have always used Dynamic AF for my sport shooting just wondering when I would ever use 3 D tracking is it really useable.
It works really well in scenerios were your ability to pan is limited (on a tripod for example) and the target is high contrast and the background/foreground relatively uniform (like a airshow or eagels in flight). In those kind a setups, it can be very effective vs the standard dynamic AF-Area modes
 
Yeah I have always used Dynamic AF for my sport shooting just wondering when I would ever use 3 D tracking is it really usable.
You could try some experiments under standard conditions to see what works best. I've put the D7100 and Sony a6000 through their paces by tracking a car driven by a willing family member. When AF is OK, the results are nearly as good as tripod-mounted resolution tests. (I mounted a section of a res. chart on the front of the car and corrected for distance).

I'm only familiar with the D7100, but it sounds as though the much older D300 has about the same capability. It seems that setting up for 3D tracking on the D300 isn't totally straightforward, whereas it's a readily available option on the D7100.
 
Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers.
There's no difference between tracking a subject around a (stationary) screen and tracking a moving subject.

In any case, I wouldn't expect Nikon 3D to do a very good job; certainly the D7100 does not perform well in this mode, particularly on a crowded footy field. YMMV, so let us know how you go. You might find that using maybe 9-Point central AF zone and tracking the subject yourself will give a better result.

Sony Lock-On and tracking works particularly well, and there a various ways of acquiring a subject to track. I love it; tracking will even continue when a subject (briefly) leaves the frame.
Yeah I have always used Dynamic AF for my sport shooting just wondering when I would ever use 3 D tracking is it really useable.
It works really well in scenerios were your ability to pan is limited (on a tripod for example) and the target is high contrast and the background/foreground relatively uniform (like a airshow or eagels in flight). In those kind a setups, it can be very effective vs the standard dynamic AF-Area modes
 
From my own experience with D7100...

The 3D Tracking worked well with isolated subjects, such as a dog running across. When there are many subjects moving closely, such as players in a basketball game, it tends to jump from one to another. I would not use it in such confusing situations.

For my son's basketball games at his High School gym, I ended up using single-point with AF-C.

I mostly used 50/1.8 and 35/1.8 lenses for those games because the gym was not very big and the 70-200 lens was too long.

Thanks.
 
With my D7200, my experiences are similar to the results noted below. I set up the camera for back button focusing and used the AF-C, which seemed to be a good combination. Hold the back button down, and you have AF-C active, let it go and the focus is locked. Search the forum or YouTube and you'll find a good deal of info how to use back-button focus.

From my own experience with D7100...

The 3D Tracking worked well with isolated subjects, such as a dog running across. When there are many subjects moving closely, such as players in a basketball game, it tends to jump from one to another. I would not use it in such confusing situations.

For my son's basketball games at his High School gym, I ended up using single-point with AF-C.

I mostly used 50/1.8 and 35/1.8 lenses for those games because the gym was not very big and the 70-200 lens was too long.

Thanks.

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With my D7200, my experiences are similar to the results noted below. I set up the camera for back button focusing and used the AF-C, which seemed to be a good combination. Hold the back button down, and you have AF-C active,
That's what I don't understand: isn't it the same as to half press the shutter when in AF-C? As long as you keep the shutter half pressed, the camera tracks the subject. And you full press to take the picture. And I know you can set the camera to release priority or focus priority.

There is something I don't understand with BBF... Maybe it's easier to hold the back button down while following the subject, instead of half pressing the shutter?

Thank you for any clarification about that.
let it go and the focus is locked. Search the forum or YouTube and you'll find a good deal of info how to use back-button focus.
 
With my D7200, my experiences are similar to the results noted below. I set up the camera for back button focusing and used the AF-C, which seemed to be a good combination. Hold the back button down, and you have AF-C active,
That's what I don't understand: isn't it the same as to half press the shutter when in AF-C? As long as you keep the shutter half pressed, the camera tracks the subject. And you full press to take the picture. And I know you can set the camera to release priority or focus priority.

There is something I don't understand with BBF... Maybe it's easier to hold the back button down while following the subject, instead of half pressing the shutter?
BBC is kind of best of both AF-c and AF-s

1. Easier to lock focus
If you are shooting something like a series of portraits of a person, and you want them composed off-center, back-button AF makes it super-easy to take as many pictures as you want. Focus on your subject by pressing the rear button (more on which button later in this article). Once in-focus, take your thumb off the rear button. Re-compose the shot to move your subject off-center. Shoot as many pictures as you like. With focus activation removed from the shutter button, you now can fire any time you like, and remove your index finger from the shutter button after a shot is taken. No matter what, the camera makes no effort to re-focus when you press the shutter button half-way down again.
2. critical timing becomes simpler to manage. For example, if you were shooting a speaker at a podium, he or she might periodically look up or make a gesture that would be an ideal instant to capture. If you’ve focused with back-button AF, your index finger is free to shoot at the decisive moment. There are no worries about holding your finger half-way down and waiting, waiting, waiting in that position for your subject to do something interesting.
3. Less risk of focus errors with moving subjects
For sports photographers and others taking action pictures, back-button AF lets you stop focus whenever something might interfere with the moving subject you’re tracking — without requiring you to stop shooting. In sports, for instance, it’s common for a referee or another player to come between the camera and an athlete being photographed. With back-button AF, it’s easy to momentarily pull your thumb off the rear button, and you can still keep shooting by pressing the shutter button fully. The camera instantly stops focusing when your thumb comes off the back button. Once the obstruction is out of your way, you can immediately pick-up your primary subject by pressing your thumb on the back button again.
4. Easier over-riding of AF with full-time manual focus
Many Nikon lenses have a neat feature called full-time manual focus*. Even if the lens’s AF/MF switch is in the AF position, these lenses allow the shooter to instantly adjust focus manually by simply turning the focus ring on the lens. There’s no need to first move the switch to MF.
With back-button AF, this becomes a nearly foolproof feature. Use the autofocus whenever you like by pressing the rear button with your right thumb. Shoot whenever you like by pressing the shutter button. And if you want to touch-up focus, or totally over-ride what the AF is doing, just pull your thumb off the rear button and turn the ring. No matter how many pictures you shoot, pressing the shutter button will not cause the AF to try to kick-in and re-set the focus you just adjusted manually.
5. Easier macro and close-up focusing
Many times, you’ll find that it’s actually easier to get consistently sharp close-up pictures of small objects by pre-focusing, and then moving yourself forward or backward until you see the critical sharp focus appear in your viewfinder. Once again, with back-button AF active, you can use the AF to get within general range (press the rear button with your thumb, then take your thumb off the button), and move a little bit to get things critically sharp. Most important, you can then shoot freely, without AF trying to re-focus each time you touch the shutter button. Finally, touching-up focus with the full-time manual focus feature on certain Canon lenses is simple and quick, and the autofocus never fights you by trying to un-do what you just adjusted.
6. Another way to control the effects of focus point bias in matrix metering.
Thank you for any clarification about that.
let it go and the focus is locked. Search the forum or YouTube and you'll find a good deal of info how to use back-button focus.
 
With my D7200, my experiences are similar to the results noted below. I set up the camera for back button focusing and used the AF-C, which seemed to be a good combination. Hold the back button down, and you have AF-C active,
That's what I don't understand: isn't it the same as to half press the shutter when in AF-C? As long as you keep the shutter half pressed, the camera tracks the subject. And you full press to take the picture. And I know you can set the camera to release priority or focus priority.

There is something I don't understand with BBF... Maybe it's easier to hold the back button down while following the subject, instead of half pressing the shutter?
BBC is kind of best of both AF-c and AF-s

1. Easier to lock focus
If you are shooting something like a series of portraits of a person, and you want them composed off-center, back-button AF makes it super-easy to take as many pictures as you want. Focus on your subject by pressing the rear button (more on which button later in this article). Once in-focus, take your thumb off the rear button. Re-compose the shot to move your subject off-center. Shoot as many pictures as you like. With focus activation removed from the shutter button, you now can fire any time you like, and remove your index finger from the shutter button after a shot is taken. No matter what, the camera makes no effort to re-focus when you press the shutter button half-way down again.
2. critical timing becomes simpler to manage. For example, if you were shooting a speaker at a podium, he or she might periodically look up or make a gesture that would be an ideal instant to capture. If you’ve focused with back-button AF, your index finger is free to shoot at the decisive moment. There are no worries about holding your finger half-way down and waiting, waiting, waiting in that position for your subject to do something interesting.
3. Less risk of focus errors with moving subjects
For sports photographers and others taking action pictures, back-button AF lets you stop focus whenever something might interfere with the moving subject you’re tracking — without requiring you to stop shooting. In sports, for instance, it’s common for a referee or another player to come between the camera and an athlete being photographed. With back-button AF, it’s easy to momentarily pull your thumb off the rear button, and you can still keep shooting by pressing the shutter button fully. The camera instantly stops focusing when your thumb comes off the back button. Once the obstruction is out of your way, you can immediately pick-up your primary subject by pressing your thumb on the back button again.
4. Easier over-riding of AF with full-time manual focus
Many Nikon lenses have a neat feature called full-time manual focus*. Even if the lens’s AF/MF switch is in the AF position, these lenses allow the shooter to instantly adjust focus manually by simply turning the focus ring on the lens. There’s no need to first move the switch to MF.
With back-button AF, this becomes a nearly foolproof feature. Use the autofocus whenever you like by pressing the rear button with your right thumb. Shoot whenever you like by pressing the shutter button. And if you want to touch-up focus, or totally over-ride what the AF is doing, just pull your thumb off the rear button and turn the ring. No matter how many pictures you shoot, pressing the shutter button will not cause the AF to try to kick-in and re-set the focus you just adjusted manually.
5. Easier macro and close-up focusing
Many times, you’ll find that it’s actually easier to get consistently sharp close-up pictures of small objects by pre-focusing, and then moving yourself forward or backward until you see the critical sharp focus appear in your viewfinder. Once again, with back-button AF active, you can use the AF to get within general range (press the rear button with your thumb, then take your thumb off the button), and move a little bit to get things critically sharp. Most important, you can then shoot freely, without AF trying to re-focus each time you touch the shutter button. Finally, touching-up focus with the full-time manual focus feature on certain Canon lenses is simple and quick, and the autofocus never fights you by trying to un-do what you just adjusted.
6. Another way to control the effects of focus point bias in matrix metering.
Thank you for any clarification about that.
let it go and the focus is locked. Search the forum or YouTube and you'll find a good deal of info how to use back-button focus.
 
Someone suggested it would be worth it so I gave it an honest try. I set the camera up and it took about a week or two to become second nature. Now it's the only way I focus. I can't go back. BBF just gives me way more options and tools
 
Hi, Looking to have a go at shooting some rugby this weekend, I have never used 3D Tracking and was wondering if it would work for following a player running with the ball. Or is more for when the camera is more stationary and it follows a subject around the screen. Cheers,. keV.
As others said 9pt dynamic AF-C will likely be better. Play with A3 -focus tracking with lock on. I set it to off for the water skiing as I shoot from the tow boat, everything is in constant motion. You may want it on for rugby and play with the timer, it will keep locked on player A if player B crosses player A's path.

Where I have great success with 3D is portrait type work at shallow DoF. AF-C, A3=off, and 3D will lock on an eye and keep it in focus if you or the subject moves a little.
 
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