rsmithgi
Senior Member
Let me correct one thing, I didn't realize that Nikon how has a 70-200 F4 zoom. It was released after I made the switch to M43.
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I do not know how to reply. I do not know why to use C-AF - as an ignorant person, I never use it.
Recently I've traveled a little through AL and BC, and I took some, I guess similar to your request, photos. Of course, my photos are rather snaps, but I never felt deficiency of S-AF with small AF box. Here is a sample taken in Calgary (I have more of the same), and I firmly believe that you will do much better after few trials.
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Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
Recently I've traveled a little through AL and BC, and I took some, I guess similar to your request, photos. Of course, my photos are rather snaps, but I never felt deficiency of S-AF with small AF box. Here is a sample taken in Calgary (I have more of the same), and I firmly believe that you will do much better after few trials.
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Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
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yahoo2u
Leading Member
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No.
I have access to most cameras that come on the market.
The ones you see on my gear list are the ones i liked and paid for. ;-)
erichK
Veteran Member
In my limited experience shooting BIF and DIF (dogs in flight) IS end up blurring images at shutter speeds above about 1/500.
erichK
Veteran Member
Actually, your experiences here illustrate the problem that is driving me - and I am sure many others- crazy. The sheer, mutli-layer complexity of the menu system and almost endless configuration options make it very difficult to be sure one has everything set up right and FAR too easy to mess up by inadvertently changing one or more of them.
I note that even Friedman, whose book is quite good, gives up at a certain point (the little lever that also drove Wrotniak crazy).
erichK
Veteran Member
I suspect that you are wrong about the with the EM1ll. There are some examples of very good CAF on line now.
And apparently even tracking now works quite well. The manager of the last surviving photo store in Saskatoon (a city of almost 250,000 that once had four) and his wife are talented nature photographers. He just started using the three EM1ll's he bought for the two of them and confirms what you say about the AF. And also that the tracking is excellent. Perhaps not quite up to Nikon's latest, but very usable
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Paul Auclair
Guest
Yep...it's (C-AF) taking some that's for sure but I think when I come out of this tunnel I'll be at the right end (or at least close enough to it)
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Paul Auclair
Guest
again for your time and your thoughts about the theory of C-AF. what a trip.
I'm sure I can get out 'there' now with confidence to set up the camera accordingly and knowingly.
Fun
I'm sure I can get out 'there' now with confidence to set up the camera accordingly and knowingly.
Fun
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Paul Auclair
Guest
info on front page of this thread
https://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41804
and table of RAW EXIF PDAF and CDAF points here
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33943&highlight=focus+points
not my work just stumbled upon it.
Now I'm confused again...but at least I know what the variables are and which ones to experiment with now.
this is clipped from Friedmans guide "
"Lots of people walk in front of you from time to time, causing your camera’s focus tracking to become distracted. What you really want is for the camera to try to track the moving subjects in the parade, and to not be distracted if something appears in front of your camera briefly. That’s what this setting is for. When set to High, the camera will wait about 2 seconds before trying to refocus onto something a drastically different distance away."
Seems to me that Gary is suggesting that the High setting equates to a longer period of time before refocusing?
also
Loading…
www.dpreview.com
"Off would mean it will jump focus more easily. Low would mean it will hesitate before jumping. High would give you the most lag before the jump.
It doesn't make focus lock in C-AF any faster, it just means the focus won't jump as easily to something briefly coming between you and the subject once you have focus lock."
I'll be checking out the MENU bubble too.
great pics. I've admired them before too.And, some pics.
Thanks Rick.
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P
Paul Auclair
Guest
it's possible...
I guessed that you were positioned across the field and not actually on the field.
If the players are moving down the sidelines and across the field from your position then they are only closing a small amount of head on distance compared to the much greater lateral distance.
now these are excellent and I do remember seeing these shots before. purple player is definitely closing distance on camera at a much higher rate since camera is on same side of field and there is much less lateral distance to aid the camera. the camera(you) is working admirably in my opinion.
What kind of results are you getting? Are the conditions a lot different that this?
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Paul Auclair
Guest
Hi Simon,
I'm usually a S-AF (or full manual focus/old vintage lenses) shooter too and I never have had issues/complaints with Oly's S-AF with any of my many Oly bodies.
I simply want to use C-AF once in while and to have some consistent results. So far any good results have been a fluke more or less so...I decided to attempt C-AF enlightenment.
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Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
dientetex
Well-known member
Hi, Paul.
I've been shooting soccer with the 50-200 SWD. I use a combination of back button focus with C-AF, and S-AF, depending on my location on the field, player location, and distance to the players.
In my experience, C-AF works best when the action is relatively close, or when shooting diagonally across the field at farther distances, without the stadium background. Since I shoot mostly in portrait orientation, the C-AF will always want to grab the horizontal lines of the stadium seating. And at longer distances with more players cluttering the view, the C-AF is less effective.
Now good light really makes a difference, but during night games I try to keep the action close, with clean backgrounds with C-AF. I rarely take any across the field shots regardless of light or type of focus.....the exception being corner kicks, or action around the goal. I am interested to see the improvement of the Mark 2.
You did ask for settings, so 9 point grid, IBIS off (use monopod), release priority ON, shutter release lag SHORT, EVF frame rate HIGH, REC View OFF.
Paul
I've been shooting soccer with the 50-200 SWD. I use a combination of back button focus with C-AF, and S-AF, depending on my location on the field, player location, and distance to the players.
In my experience, C-AF works best when the action is relatively close, or when shooting diagonally across the field at farther distances, without the stadium background. Since I shoot mostly in portrait orientation, the C-AF will always want to grab the horizontal lines of the stadium seating. And at longer distances with more players cluttering the view, the C-AF is less effective.
Now good light really makes a difference, but during night games I try to keep the action close, with clean backgrounds with C-AF. I rarely take any across the field shots regardless of light or type of focus.....the exception being corner kicks, or action around the goal. I am interested to see the improvement of the Mark 2.
You did ask for settings, so 9 point grid, IBIS off (use monopod), release priority ON, shutter release lag SHORT, EVF frame rate HIGH, REC View OFF.
Paul
Just to show what an E-M1 Mk1 can do with CAF - quite impressive!
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58954162
When the operator knows the camera ... and the subject
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58954162
When the operator knows the camera ... and the subject
rsmithgi
Senior Member
A couple other words of encouragement. I had previously (starting almost 12 years ago) shot with Nikon low-end DSLRs (D70, D5000). In 2011, I was in between sons playing soccer (they are 9 years apart) and was using my D5000 less and less. I was often using a compact P&S digital camera. It was then that I decided to try M43, starting with a GF3. Soon, I was not using the D5000 at all and decided to switch to M43 fully with the purchase of a G3. Interestingly, it was the first time that I had ever owned two interchangeable lens cameras at the same time. From that point forward, I have owned a small camera (GF3, GX1, E-P5) and a larger camera with EVF (G3, E-M10, E-M1).
Once my younger son began playing more serious soccer in 2012, I realized that I needed to change the AF-S and time my shots more. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get some shots and I stayed with M43. Once I got the E-M1, it was back to the AF-C and I can say that I have been extremely happy.
Here is a portion of a sequence (first few and the last) from the first game I shot with the E-M1, just 1 week after buying a used one in London. It was a spur of the moment purchase because of the price ($580 US) and condition (less than 600 shutter clicks). I can say that shooting with the E-M1 feels just like shooting with a D5000 class DSLR.
I am confident that with a bit of practice, anyone can achieve the same results. I stumbled upon the settings (on this forum), and was lucky to have a set that worked for me right away.
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Paul Auclair
Guest
Mark2 is dogging my brain waves. This is why I want to get as best I can with Mk1 to determine if I can be perfectly satisfied with Mark1 or do I "need" mk2. if I can happily keep on trucking with the mk1 then I can add some glass instead (the 12-100/4, 25/1.2 are seriously tempting bits of gear).
Thanks again.
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Paul Auclair
Guest
thanks again for your time and thoughts. great camera work.A couple other words of encouragement. I had previously (starting almost 12 years ago) shot with Nikon low-end DSLRs (D70, D5000). In 2011, I was in between sons playing soccer (they are 9 years apart) and was using my D5000 less and less. I was often using a compact P&S digital camera. It was then that I decided to try M43, starting with a GF3. Soon, I was not using the D5000 at all and decided to switch to M43 fully with the purchase of a G3. Interestingly, it was the first time that I had ever owned two interchangeable lens cameras at the same time. From that point forward, I have owned a small camera (GF3, GX1, E-P5) and a larger camera with EVF (G3, E-M10, E-M1).
Once my younger son began playing more serious soccer in 2012, I realized that I needed to change the AF-S and time my shots more. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get some shots and I stayed with M43. Once I got the E-M1, it was back to the AF-C and I can say that I have been extremely happy.
Here is a portion of a sequence (first few and the last) from the first game I shot with the E-M1, just 1 week after buying a used one in London. It was a spur of the moment purchase because of the price ($580 US) and condition (less than 600 shutter clicks). I can say that shooting with the E-M1 feels just like shooting with a D5000 class DSLR.
I am confident that with a bit of practice, anyone can achieve the same results. I stumbled upon the settings (on this forum), and was lucky to have a set that worked for me right away.
the facilities your kids play on WOW they must feel like Champs playing on that field.
rsmithgi
Senior Member
We are very lucky to have great facilities. We also belong to a very good club. The club has good coaching and best of all opportunities for players at all levels. There is a good blend of playing to win with a focus on player development and good sportsmanship. My son joined an established team as a first time travel player at 12 years old. He was treated extremely fairly with the playing time and coaching needed to advance and a year later he was the team's leading scorer.
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Paul Auclair
Guest
C-AF with single, 9 point, or all points...pretty much holds the same with S-af.
i was reading threads from all ages of the EM1 and dealing with EM1 w/m4/3 and EM1 w/4/3 lenses. a jungle of info.
i've learned there are exif tools that show (X,Y, axis points) what AF point was used to capture and whether or not AF was ON or OFF for capture. there is a fella who posted what all the points were regarding the AF points on screen.
info on front page of this thread
https://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41804
and table of RAW EXIF PDAF and CDAF points here
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33943&highlight=focus+points
not my work just stumbled upon it.
yes, one setting i'll be adjusting often at the start of my 'practical' now that I now what it is and what it does.
I have the 50-200 which is my longest AF lens and I still use it at times so this is good to know.
I guess same as S-AF it will depend on what shutter speeds I have to use IBSI or not.
the one issue with High is that Focus Peaking is no longer available. I have M focus assigned to my AEL/AFL button. one press puts camera into manual focus with active peaking. another press puts camera back into whatever mode it was in before. very handy.
choices.
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