23mm f2 tips for very close up at f2

vegetaleb · Jan 2, 2017

So I got the 23mm f2 for Christmas and I am super happy with that lens.

I am not a clos-up under 30cm shooter, my mobile phone the HTC 10 can take beautiful and detailed photos at 5cm if I need it (and in DNG too) and has better results than the 23mm f2 and most probably the f1.4 wide open at so close range.

Though I am posting this little tutorial for people who will have occasional under 30cm photos with the 23mm f2.

You will not have the sharpest result above all lenses but you will definitely have a much better and usable photo. Perhaps Fuji will correct that in the 1st FW update of this lens.

Using Capture One and Raf

Under Sharpening tab:

-Amount: 170 to 180 (some people can go up to 250 if it doesn't oversharpen)

-Radius: 1.2

-Threshold: 0.5

NR tab:

-Luminance to 0 if ISO 200-400 and 25 if higher ISO

Clarity tab:

-Clarity: between 60 and 85 it depends on every single photo

-Structure: 10

HDR tab:

-Highlight: 50 to 100 depending on the photo, perhaps 0 for some

Saturation: Increase it as you will, personally 20 is good enough

Contrast: between 3 and 7

Sometimes you will have to decrease Exposure and boost shadows to decrease blown out areas like in the photo below

And here an example of before and after, taken at 20cm from Santa.

Crop 100% before (untouched)

Crop 100% After treatment:

deednets · Jan 8, 2017

vegetaleb said:
So I got the 23mm f2 for Christmas and I am super happy with that lens.

I am not a clos-up under 30cm shooter, my mobile phone the HTC 10 can take beautiful and detailed photos at 5cm if I need it (and in DNG too) and has better results than the 23mm f2 and most probably the f1.4 wide open at so close range.

Though I am posting this little tutorial for people who will have occasional under 30cm photos with the 23mm f2.

You will not have the sharpest result above all lenses but you will definitely have a much better and usable photo. Perhaps Fuji will correct that in the 1st FW update of this lens.

Using Capture One and Raf

Under Sharpening tab:

-Amount: 170 to 180 (some people can go up to 250 if it doesn't oversharpen)

-Radius: 1.2

-Threshold: 0.5

NR tab:

-Luminance to 0 if ISO 200-400 and 25 if higher ISO

Clarity tab:

-Clarity: between 60 and 85 it depends on every single photo

-Structure: 10

HDR tab:

-Highlight: 50 to 100 depending on the photo, perhaps 0 for some

Saturation: Increase it as you will, personally 20 is good enough

Contrast: between 3 and 7

Sometimes you will have to decrease Exposure and boost shadows to decrease blown out areas like in the photo below

And here an example of before and after, taken at 20cm from Santa.

Crop 100% before (untouched)

Crop 100% After treatment:

Possibly a tad too specialised for this forum? I use Capture One also but hardly ever tough the clarity sliders other than for selective sharpening of sky or wide areas of an arid landscape.

I also disagree with your assumption that the 23/2 needs software help. I treat my lens the same as any other and simply fail to see the issue. And had the 23/1.4 for a few years and therefore have a few thousand images on my computer.

vegetaleb · Jan 8, 2017

I use clarity for all my photos but not portraits in Capture 1 it helps reveal the microcontrast of the lens which is btw amazing on this 23mm f2. Microcontrast helps a lot in landscapes like you said but also for f2 photos that looks a tad smooth at 100% zoom.

Don't take me wrong I absolutely love this lens and I barely take photos at f2 less than 35cm but I posted this tutorial for people who complained about the f2 vs f1.4 at f2 lack of sharpness.

I took my niece portrait yesterday at 60cm f2 and the result was tack sharp out of the camera, though I always use this tutorial because C1 is not perfect for opening Raf automatically, it will lower the sharpness too much out of the box specially when you increase ISO, for clarity I don't use it with portraits because it will ''kill'' the skin

Sagi k · Jan 8, 2017

deednets said:
I also disagree with your assumption that the 23/2 needs software help. I treat my lens the same as any other and simply fail to see the issue. And had the 23/1.4 for a few years and therefore have a few thousand images on my computer.

If you fail to see the issue, it doesn't mean it's not there (and it definitely is) - I'm not hesitating to say that the lens is simply UNUSABLE from F/2-F/4 (and even 5.6!) when you try to shoot subjects closer than 35cm. My 23/1.4 provides amazingly sharp output at any range. I will not be surprised if Fuji will release a Mk II for this lens - the current design isn't good enough. the 35/2 suffers from the same phenomenon but it's not as bad as it is with the 23/2.

vegetaleb · Jan 8, 2017

Sagi k said:
Sagi k said:

I also disagree with your assumption that the 23/2 needs software help. I treat my lens the same as any other and simply fail to see the issue. And had the 23/1.4 for a few years and therefore have a few thousand images on my computer.

Click to expand...

If you fail to see the issue, it doesn't mean it's not there (and it definitely is) - I'm not hesitating to say that the lens is simply UNUSABLE from F/2-F/4 (and even 5.6!) when you try to shoot subjects closer than 35cm. My 23/1.4 provides amazingly sharp output at any range. I will not be surprised if Fuji will release a Mk II for this lens - the current design isn't good enough. the 35/2 suffers from the same phenomenon but it's not as bad as it is with the 23/2.

Do you actually own a 23mm f2 lens?

If not then I can understand your point, you paid 600 to 800$ (depending on the promotions) for a 23mm f1.4 and you won't accept the fact that the 450$ model can give very good (but not perfect) photos at under 35cm at f2.

f5.6?????? this is a proof you never owned this lens, it's a sharp as the f1.4 version at f5.6 so if it's not sharp enough then the f1.4 is also the same. At f6.4 to f9 the 23mm f2 outclass the f1.4 lens.

The 23mm f1.4 is slightly better at f2 to f2.8, though if you use this tutorial you can reach the f1.4 quality.

From f2.8 to f4 it's already 95% as good as the f1.4 lens.

Calling the 23mm f2 an unusable lens because of that is pathetic at best

olypan · Jan 8, 2017

Some idiot claimed there was a problem with this lens, expecting it to be sharp when tickling nostril hairs, we now have hand wringing leftie panic over the assumption this lens has a fault. Life after Internet forums eh.

georgehudetz · Jan 8, 2017

deednets said:
Possibly a tad too specialised for this forum?

Have to disagree here. I'm a little surprised you would say that, actually, with all the debating that happens on this forum relative to raw processors.

deednets said:
I use Capture One also but hardly ever tough the clarity sliders other than for selective sharpening of sky or wide areas of an arid landscape.

And for some of us that is quite often? I find it a useful tool, to be sure.

JS Burnie · Jan 8, 2017

I don't believe that the new f/2 lens "outclasses" the f/1.4 in terms of image quality/resolution at any aperture. Have a look at Lenstip and compare. The newer, slower lens is small and light and probably focuses a bit faster. And it's cheaper. I believe those are the aspects that make it attractive to some.

vegetaleb · Jan 8, 2017

JS Burnie said:
I don't believe that the new f/2 lens "outclasses" the f/1.4 in terms of image quality/resolution at any aperture. Have a look at Lenstip and compare. The newer, slower lens is small and light and probably focuses a bit faster. And it's cheaper. I believe those are the aspects that make it attractive to some.

Lenstip clearly shows the f2 lens is sharper in the center from f4 to f16. Starting f8 it's sharper in the center and equal to the f1.4 lens on the borders.

At f2 to f3.6 the f1.4 lens is slightly better.

At f2.8 the difference is very limited.

I want to add that there are definitely defective 23mm f2 units in the market, those are from the very first batches. Also please stop comparing a lens that is intended to be a monster of bokeh (f1.4) with the 23mm f2 every-time someone praise this lens in any forum there are some f1.4 radicals who come and begin to shoot on the f2 lens throwing bs things on this lens because they paid much more on the f1.4

We are all part of the same Fuji family here, if you are a bokeh only shooter then don't buy the f2, if you are a versatile or landscape shooter get the f2, it's definitely a super sharp lens from f4 to f9 and will give you pleasant results for f2 and f2.8.

Sometimes I feel like Sony PS4 vs xbox One fans threads when we open a topic on the 23mm f2 lens, if you see what I mean

23mm f2

23mm f1.4

Vic Chapman · Jan 8, 2017

vegetaleb said:
So I got the 23mm f2 for Christmas and I am super happy with that lens.

I am not a clos-up under 30cm shooter, my mobile phone the HTC 10 can take beautiful and detailed photos at 5cm if I need it (and in DNG too) and has better results than the 23mm f2 and most probably the f1.4 wide open at so close range.

Though I am posting this little tutorial for people who will have occasional under 30cm photos with the 23mm f2.

You will not have the sharpest result above all lenses but you will definitely have a much better and usable photo. Perhaps Fuji will correct that in the 1st FW update of this lens.

Using Capture One and Raf

Under Sharpening tab:

-Amount: 170 to 180 (some people can go up to 250 if it doesn't oversharpen)

-Radius: 1.2

-Threshold: 0.5

NR tab:

-Luminance to 0 if ISO 200-400 and 25 if higher ISO

Clarity tab:

-Clarity: between 60 and 85 it depends on every single photo

-Structure: 10

HDR tab:

-Highlight: 50 to 100 depending on the photo, perhaps 0 for some

Saturation: Increase it as you will, personally 20 is good enough

Contrast: between 3 and 7

Sometimes you will have to decrease Exposure and boost shadows to decrease blown out areas like in the photo below

And here an example of before and after, taken at 20cm from Santa.

Crop 100% before (untouched)

Crop 100% After treatment:

I'm not getting into the which lens is sharper thing but I have to say I don't see sharpness in either image shown here. Admittedly I don't know the subject which may not ideal as an example but I wouldn't find the after image acceptable even as a before image. Lot of purple edging too. Maybe choose a subject that has some obvious inherent sharpness rather than worn wood?

--
The sky is full of holes that let the rain get in, the holes are very small - that's why the rain is thin.
Spike Milligan. Writer, comedian, poet, Goon. 1918 - 2002

JS Burnie · Jan 8, 2017

OK, the f/2 has marginally more resolution at f/4 to f/8, in the centre. Otherwise the f/1.4 looks better, especially in the corners.

vegetaleb · Jan 8, 2017

JS Burnie said:
OK, the f/2 has marginally more resolution at f/4 to f/8, in the centre. Otherwise the f/1.4 looks better, especially in the corners.

The difference in the center in favor of the f2 is the same as the f1.4 on the borders, so either lens has a solid super sharp result, both lenses will be fantastic for landscape and street, personally I find the added value of the lighter,smaller and WR factors better for landscapes as I can do hiking or tourism for 2-3 hours in summer with the camera around my neck, and on the X-T10 the f1.4 is too big (this is my personal point of view).

I bought this camera (and later the X-T20) for its small retro look, a pancake or small lens is just perfect to complete this look, my xc 16-50 for example is already too big

walie007 · Jan 8, 2017

Sagi k said:
Sagi k said:

I also disagree with your assumption that the 23/2 needs software help. I treat my lens the same as any other and simply fail to see the issue. And had the 23/1.4 for a few years and therefore have a few thousand images on my computer.

Click to expand...

If you fail to see the issue, it doesn't mean it's not there (and it definitely is) - I'm not hesitating to say that the lens is simply UNUSABLE from F/2-F/4 (and even 5.6!) when you try to shoot subjects closer than 35cm. My 23/1.4 provides amazingly sharp output at any range. I will not be surprised if Fuji will release a Mk II for this lens - the current design isn't good enough. the 35/2 suffers from the same phenomenon but it's not as bad as it is with the 23/2.

I call bullcrap on this Mk II garbage, the lens on the x100 had the same characteristics, and fuji stuck with it for the S and T variants.

georgehudetz · Jan 8, 2017

Vic Chapman said:
Maybe choose a subject that has some obvious inherent sharpness rather than worn wood?

Interesting you would say that Vic. I've always felt that weathered (and even finely finished) wood to be a good test of micro-contrast. Perhaps it's the time I've spent working with wood, touching it with my fingers, etc. that gives me an appreciation for the detail that can be there. But a weathered piece of wood can have a tremendous amount of surface texture/character which can manifest in a photograph.

Now, neither of these brings out the true nature of that piece, but the second is much closer that the first, when viewed 100%, IMO.

Vic Chapman · Jan 8, 2017

georgehudetz said:
Vic Chapman said:

Maybe choose a subject that has some obvious inherent sharpness rather than worn wood?

Click to expand...

Interesting you would say that Vic. I've always felt that weathered (and even finely finished) wood to be a good test of micro-contrast. Perhaps it's the time I've spent working with wood, touching it with my fingers, etc. that gives me an appreciation for the detail that can be there. But a weathered piece of wood can have a tremendous amount of surface texture/character which can manifest in a photograph.

Now, neither of these brings out the true nature of that piece, but the second is much closer that the first, when viewed 100%, IMO.

Lydecker · Jan 8, 2017

But there is no doubt that the F2 has a close focusing issue. Check this review from 5:13 onwardz:

But yeah, just a issue that should not be overblown to gigantic proportions I think.

deednets · Jan 8, 2017

Lydecker said:
But there is no doubt that the F2 has a close focusing issue. Check this review from 5:13 onwardz:

But yeah, just a issue that should not be overblown to gigantic proportions I think.

Do you have the lens??

Found a Tiger Balm pot, note that the writing in the blue area is sharper than the one on the left, if I turn the pot a tad more, one of the areas will be oof.

Not enough subject isolation I guess?

I don't use this lens much at 20cm distance, not every lens in my book needs to be F1.4 and not every lens needs to be a demi-macro.

You saw this one?

Not good enough??

Note that if you take images at F2 and a distance of 20 or so cm from the front lens you will not get much in focus.

Here is one taken at F2:

Deed

vegetaleb · Jan 8, 2017

deednets said:
Lydecker said:

But there is no doubt that the F2 has a close focusing issue. Check this review from 5:13 onwardz:

But yeah, just a issue that should not be overblown to gigantic proportions I think.

Click to expand...

Do you have the lens??

Found a Tiger Balm pot, note that the writing in the blue area is sharper than the one on the left, if I turn the pot a tad more, one of the areas will be oof.

Not enough subject isolation I guess?

I don't use this lens much at 20cm distance, not every lens in my book needs to be F1.4 and not every lens needs to be a demi-macro.

You saw this one?

Not good enough??

Note that if you take images at F2 and a distance of 20 or so cm from the front lens you will not get much in focus.

Here is one taken at F2:

Deed

Totally agree

Here a very positive review of this lens http://charlenewinfred.com/2017/01/07/fujinon-xf-23mm-f2-another-lens-gorgeous-flare/

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23mm f2 tips for very close up at f2

vegetaleb

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deednets

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olypan

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