Quiz. Tele lenses and stability on m4/3. Not IBIS or OIS.

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

Using fast shutter speeds with IBIS or OIS off.

Handheld for both lenses at 1/2500, ISO 400 and both set to F/5.6.

Focal length used is 300mm.

Which lens is more stable in the hands and easier to get a shot from with m4/3 .....

E-M10, Canon 100-300 F/5.6L, Weight: 710g. Beautiful sharp lens BTW. Highly recommended for a MF zoom.

Panasonic G2, Canon 300 F/2.8L, Weight: 2,310g. Can't fault it for IQ and now used on the E-M10

So which one is easier and more stable than the other at 300mm on m4/3.

All the best and some will know for sure, but could be interesting.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

jalywol · Jan 3, 2017

nzmacro said:
Using fast shutter speeds with IBIS or OIS off.

Handheld for both lenses at 1/2500, ISO 400 and both set to F/5.6.

Focal length used is 300mm.

Which lens is more stable in the hands and easier to get a shot from with m4/3 .....

E-M10, Canon 100-300 F/5.6L, Weight: 710g. Beautiful sharp lens BTW. Highly recommended for a MF zoom.

Panasonic G2, Canon 300 F/2.8L, Weight: 2,310g. Can't fault it for IQ and now used on the E-M10

So which one is easier and more stable than the other at 300mm on m4/3.

All the best and some will know for sure, but could be interesting.

Danny.

I think it depends on how much weight lifting one has been doing to prepare

.

Seriously though, I think the heavier one would be more stable hand held than the lighter one....if you can figure out how to support it with just your body.

-J

OzRay · Jan 3, 2017

I've always maintained that mass will help stabilize any lens/camera combination, so I'd rather the large lens than the lightweight.

Paul Auclair · Jan 3, 2017

Danny,

I have an FDn 300/4 L...great lens.

I've been curious about the 100-300L.

How do you find the sharpness of the zoom at 300 compared to your 300L prime(s)?

Also, seems common enough that zooms are better (sharpness-wise) at one end or the other. Have you noticed any noticeable differences (sharpness-wise) throughout the 100-300's zoom range?

Paul

glowingshutter · Jan 3, 2017

nzmacro said:
Using fast shutter speeds with IBIS or OIS off.

Handheld for both lenses at 1/2500, ISO 400 and both set to F/5.6.

Focal length used is 300mm.

Which lens is more stable in the hands and easier to get a shot from with m4/3 .....

... I can't say for sure, but I'd think neither one is more likely to give you motion blur than the other at 1/2500s. I could be wrong, but this seems well past 1/EFL rule.

The 100-300 might be easier to get the shot because you can zoom in and out so you can more easily track and frame the shot.

nzmacro said:
E-M10, Canon 100-300 F/5.6L, Weight: 710g. Beautiful sharp lens BTW. Highly recommended for a MF zoom.

Panasonic G2, Canon 300 F/2.8L, Weight: 2,310g. Can't fault it for IQ and now used on the E-M10

You couldn't pay me to carry this one around. I've become too attached to my fully articulating spine. ;-)

nzmacro said:
So which one is easier and more stable than the other at 300mm on m4/3.

All the best and some will know for sure, but could be interesting.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

OzRay · Jan 3, 2017

Pffft! My 90-250mm f2.8 weighs nearly a kilo more. Easy to carry around and handhold.

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

Paul Auclair said:
Danny,

I have an FDn 300/4 L...great lens.

I've been curious about the 100-300L.

How do you find the sharpness of the zoom at 300 compared to your 300L prime(s)?

Also, seems common enough that zooms are better (sharpness-wise) at one end or the other. Have you noticed any noticeable differences (sharpness-wise) throughout the 100-300's zoom range?

Paul

Hang on Paul, I'll drag out a few shots from it. Its not used much, but really only because of what I shoot and where, not because of IQ. No CA Paul and sharp as a tack at 300mm and I would say at all focal lengths. They broke the mold when they made that lens. Fluorite element is the secret to it. Ahhh where are we ......

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/56852037

The last shot was just a simple kit lens. The rest are with the 100-300 and always used wide open. On the NEX-7 those shots and a great lens for those subjects. It seems to be that way across the zoom range. Its mainly used for macro with a Raynox DCR-250 attached. In fact its all I use for macro now days.

On the NEX-7 and mainly at the 300mm end

and so on

Not many BIF's with it Paul. I do know exactly where it can be used on BIF's though and I'll do that this weekend depending on the weather and drop you a PM. Most of the time if I need 300mm I tend to go for the F2.8L.

Your 300 F/4L is another excellent lens. No fluorite, but highly corrected just the same. I recommend that lens a lot ;-)

All the best Paul and I'll have a crack this weekend. BTW, it doesn't take the 1.4x TC.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

OzRay said:
Pffft! My 90-250mm f2.8 weighs nearly a kilo more. Easy to carry around and handhold.

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

Do you honestly think I can't move my back !!

What about my arms and legs.

Oh dear oh me. How about a female I shoot with (Toya) using a Canon 7D MKII and a Sigma 150-600mm sport. Do you think she can't move her back as well.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

3dwag · Jan 3, 2017

nzmacro said:
Using fast shutter speeds with IBIS or OIS off.

Handheld for both lenses at 1/2500, ISO 400 and both set to F/5.6.

Focal length used is 300mm.

Which lens is more stable in the hands and easier to get a shot from with m4/3 .....

E-M10, Canon 100-300 F/5.6L, Weight: 710g. Beautiful sharp lens BTW. Highly recommended for a MF zoom.

Panasonic G2, Canon 300 F/2.8L, Weight: 2,310g. Can't fault it for IQ and now used on the E-M10

So which one is easier and more stable than the other at 300mm on m4/3.

All the best and some will know for sure, but could be interesting.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

I'm trying to imagine myself hand-holding that white lens...

In favor of the white lens, that one you are autofocusing with an adapter, correct? For that reason, plus how I think I'd be holding it to balance which would seem to be more like my cradling the more massive lens towards its larger diameter (forward) section with a small light camera attached, plus the increased mass of the lens, would all seem to conspire to yield the highest stability.

Especially with the zoom lens extended at 300mm, as I imagine holding it I would more likely be balancing the assembly by holding the lens with my right hand in about the middle, which would tend to be least stable by the entire assembly rotating about the balance point -- but then, I'd be needing to focus it so I can image my struggling to do that plus keeping the whole assembly still whilst simultaneously firing the shutter. This is also a lighter assembly, which would tend to not be as conducive to dampening out small movements and vibrations as the larger white 300mm lens.

So, I vote for the big white 300mm L.

--
-Dennis W.
Austin, Texas
http://www.pbase.com/3dwag/image/97156660.jpg

Messier Object · Jan 3, 2017

. . . with the camera held above shoulder height, pointing it up at the bird nest waiting for the chick to show itself ?

If more than 30 seconds I'll take the little one thanks.

Peter

3dwag · Jan 3, 2017

Messier Object said:
. . . with the camera held above shoulder height, pointing it up at the bird nest waiting for the chick to show itself ?

If more than 30 seconds I'll take the little one thanks.

Peter

Peter,

On second thought, I should change my answer above to the same as yours. I don't think that I could hold that big white lens in any position for more than about 20 seconds.

And, after all,

"the best lens is the one you can lift and hold for a while!"

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

Messier Object said:
. . . with the camera held above shoulder height, pointing it up at the bird nest waiting for the chick to show itself ?

If more than 30 seconds I'll take the little one thanks.

Peter

I would throw the 800 F/5.6 on a tripod and just wait Pete ;-)

The angle of view would be much better.

I wouldn't want to hold the lighter one up for 30 seconds either Pete. It starts to human shake at that length of time, IBIS or not. Maybe I need a gym membership

All the best Pete.

Danny.

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

3dwag said:
nzmacro said:

Using fast shutter speeds with IBIS or OIS off.

Handheld for both lenses at 1/2500, ISO 400 and both set to F/5.6.

Focal length used is 300mm.

Which lens is more stable in the hands and easier to get a shot from with m4/3 .....

E-M10, Canon 100-300 F/5.6L, Weight: 710g. Beautiful sharp lens BTW. Highly recommended for a MF zoom.

Panasonic G2, Canon 300 F/2.8L, Weight: 2,310g. Can't fault it for IQ and now used on the E-M10

So which one is easier and more stable than the other at 300mm on m4/3.

All the best and some will know for sure, but could be interesting.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

Click to expand...

I'm trying to imagine myself hand-holding that white lens...

In favor of the white lens, that one you are autofocusing with an adapter, correct? For that reason, plus how I think I'd be holding it to balance which would seem to be more like my cradling the more massive lens towards its larger diameter (forward) section with a small light camera attached, plus the increased mass of the lens, would all seem to conspire to yield the highest stability.

Especially with the zoom lens extended at 300mm, as I imagine holding it I would more likely be balancing the assembly by holding the lens with my right hand in about the middle, which would tend to be least stable by the entire assembly rotating about the balance point -- but then, I'd be needing to focus it so I can image my struggling to do that plus keeping the whole assembly still whilst simultaneously firing the shutter. This is also a lighter assembly, which would tend to not be as conducive to dampening out small movements and vibrations as the larger white 300mm lens.

So, I vote for the big white 300mm L.

--
-Dennis W.
Austin, Texas
http://www.pbase.com/3dwag/image/97156660.jpg

Both manual focus Dennis, but you are right ;-) Not a trick question, just had some interesting discussions in another thread is all.

Danny.

--
Flickr albums ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/124733969@N06/sets/
The need for speed ..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/130646821@N03/
Birds, macro, motor sports.... http://www.birdsinaction.com

Tony Collins · Jan 3, 2017

Despite what others have said, the greater mass won't provide more stability.

The greater mass means more force due to gravity, so the acceleration towards the ground will be JUST as fast as with a lighter lens.

Then your arm is going to have to counter that greater force. Muscles shake more when applying more force, and this gets worse as they get tired.

A lighter lens is always going to be more stable hand held if using muscle power to support it.

Of course - if you provide static support (EG on knees while sitting, or on a wall) then the heavier lens will resist side to side movement more, so may be more stable under those conditions.

--
Tony Collins

nzmacro · Jan 3, 2017

Tony Collins said:
Despite what others have said, the greater mass won't provide more stability.

The greater mass means more force due to gravity, so the acceleration towards the ground will be JUST as fast as with a lighter lens.

Then your arm is going to have to counter that greater force. Muscles shake more when applying more force, and this gets worse as they get tired.

A lighter lens is always going to be more stable hand held if using muscle power to support it.

Of course - if you provide static support (EG on knees while sitting, or on a wall) then the heavier lens will resist side to side movement more, so may be more stable under those conditions.

Brian Wadie · Jan 3, 2017

I know which is the more stable but I also know which one I couldn't hand-hold and they are the same

(its alright for you fit youngsters of course

)

OzRay · Jan 4, 2017

Tony Collins said:
Despite what others have said, the greater mass won't provide more stability.

The greater mass means more force due to gravity, so the acceleration towards the ground will be JUST as fast as with a lighter lens.

Then your arm is going to have to counter that greater force. Muscles shake more when applying more force, and this gets worse as they get tired.

A lighter lens is always going to be more stable hand held if using muscle power to support it.

Of course - if you provide static support (EG on knees while sitting, or on a wall) then the heavier lens will resist side to side movement more, so may be more stable under those conditions.

Not so. Newton's Second Law still applies.

Brian Wadie · Jan 4, 2017

"Despite what others have said, the greater mass won't provide more stability."

It does, by providing greater inertial damping

tt321 · Jan 4, 2017

Totally agree. But for me I am not able to hand hold either with an m43 camera with my motion sickness. I need an OVF to work with these kinds of lenses unstabilized.

Quiz. Tele lenses and stability on m4/3. Not IBIS or OIS.

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