Following the temple scheme ...
The (East and West) Honganji are the principle temples of Shin Buddhism, which as a sect probably has the most colourful history in Buddhism. At one point, they managed to become, for practical purposes, one of the country's strongest daimyo, or warlords (a Buddhist sect as a warlord, yeah right) in all but name, within the warlord-driven politics of Japan. Their greatest day came when their base of Ishiyama Honganji, at the location of today's Osaka Castle, managed to resist a decade-long siege mounted by the leading warlord of the day who had the greatest military and political resources in the country at the time, and almost at any time in Japan's history. If we talked about 'equivalence' this would be equivalent to some sect organizing itself around Canterbury Cathedral and resisting a decade-long siege by Henry the 8th with the entire English military machine at the time bearing down on it, sort of. The battles around Ishiyama Honganji featured, for instance, the warlord-leader's thousands-strong regiments armed with muskets being comprehensively demolished by the monks' artillery.

Osaka Castle, left, East Honganji, top right, and West Honganji, bottom right.
The situation of East and West Honganji in Kyoto was finalized by Tokugawa Ieyasu, as one of the many master strokes of his long career. This act of splitting the sect more or less eliminated Shin Buddhism as a political, and especially military, force. The two temples are almost side by side but maintain a kind of Man City vs Man United (or is it Harvard vs MIT?) relationship, even today. The message on the front wall of the West temple extols the virtual of the True origin of the Shin Buddhism (Shin means true and Shin Buddhism is the short name for the "true school of clean earth Buddhism") and proclaims itself as the main temple. The message on the front wall of the East temple has an English version reading "today, life is living you". I guess if you are the real original branch you can afford to be namby-pamby whilst if you were the split out branch you have to cry true all the time?

Their walls and moats are no simple stylistic niceties but recall their martial heritage.

Permanent job.

Great spaces for quiet contemplation, in peace. Once you relinquish your military ambitions and leave organized violence behind, you might actually find peace.
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