sdQ arboretum image

Carl Schofield

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sdQ with dust shield/hot mirror removed, 18-35 A lens with Kolari 72mm hot mirror filter. Processed in SPP 6.4 and Piccure+ 3.1. Full size original.







--
Carl
Website: http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/
 

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Carl,

Is this combo just to facilitate doing both IR and normal out in the field? How do the colors compare to the built in dust-protector? It looks good from what I can see.
 
Carl,

Is this combo just to facilitate doing both IR and normal out in the field? How do the colors compare to the built in dust-protector? It looks good from what I can see.
 
Carl,

Is this combo just to facilitate doing both IR and normal out in the field? How do the colors compare to the built in dust-protector? It looks good from what I can see.

--
Jim
Yes Jim, the dust shield/hot mirror is in storage. I carry the camera with 18-35 lens and an R72 IR pass filter and Kolari CC hot mirror filter so that I can switch between full color and 720 nm IR imaging just by changing filters. The Kolari filter gives slightly cooler images compared to the dust shield IR cut when using daylight or auto WB, but I use a custom white balance when shooting color and just switch the camera to monochrome mode for IR.

--
Carl
Website: http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/
Hello Carl,

Currently I have the SD1 Merrill with the hot mirror out and that seems an excellent idea compared to messing with it in the field.

Do you have a link to that exact Kolari lens filter please?

S'OK I found it:

http://kolarivision.com/product/kolari-vision-color-correcting-hot-mirror-filter-uvir-cut-filter/

The slope in the red region of the curve is a bit bothersome to this pedant. ;-) The B+W 486 looks more like the Sigma response and the Tiffen allows a bit of NIR through - have you tried either one?

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
 
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Carl,

Is this combo just to facilitate doing both IR and normal out in the field? How do the colors compare to the built in dust-protector? It looks good from what I can see.

--
Jim
Yes Jim, the dust shield/hot mirror is in storage. I carry the camera with 18-35 lens and an R72 IR pass filter and Kolari CC hot mirror filter so that I can switch between full color and 720 nm IR imaging just by changing filters. The Kolari filter gives slightly cooler images compared to the dust shield IR cut when using daylight or auto WB, but I use a custom white balance when shooting color and just switch the camera to monochrome mode for IR.
Hello Carl,

Currently I have the SD1 Merrill with the hot mirror out and that seems an excellent idea compared to messing with it in the field.

Do you have a link to that exact Kolari lens filter please?

S'OK I found it:

http://kolarivision.com/product/kolari-vision-color-correcting-hot-mirror-filter-uvir-cut-filter/

The slope in the red region of the curve is a bit bothersome to this pedant. ;-) The B+W 486 looks more like the Sigma response and the Tiffen allows a bit of NIR through - have you tried either one?
Hi Ted,

The 486 is an interference type filter and the Kolari is an absorption filter. The Sigma internal is closer in design to the 486, but I've found that the 486 on a lens does not cut enough IR and there is some leakage, particularly at the edges. I had a 486 on my lenses when using my Leica M8 that had a weak internal IR cut filter on the sensor and it did OK, but not as good as the Kolari absorption filter on my full spectrum converted Sony camera and the Sigma with dust shield removed.
Thanks Carl,

I've ordered a Kolari but am still a little concerned about that cool look - especially with the lower response of the Merrill bottom layer compared to other Sigmas. Could you tell me more about this "IR leakage", it's cause and it's effects, please?
Ted,

I think that all you need to do is make an in camera custom white balance using a neutral card as a target and that should take care of the cool look. I just made one custom white balance outside in daylight with the Kolari filter and use it whenever I'm shooting outdoors.
Thanks, I'll do that.
I think that the 486 is sensitive to the angle of light striking the filter and this can cause some color casting near the edges of the image.
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that . . .

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
Here are some examples that I shot this afternoon using the sdQ with both the Kolari CC and IR R72.

Kolari on 18-35, custom in camera white balance





Same file processed in SPP 6.4 using daylight white balance





A shot with the R72 IR pass filter, same custom white balance, but monochrome mode







--
Carl
Website: http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/
 

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Here are some examples that I shot this afternoon using the sdQ with both the Kolari CC and IR R72.

Kolari on 18-35, custom in camera white balance



Same file processed in SPP 6.4 using daylight white balance



Quite a difference, obviously due to the Kolari filter transmission characteristic. I wonder if the "cooler" in-camera WBs like Shade or Overcast would be more suitable than Daylight? Just a thought, especially Shade.

Guess I'll find out soon enough, eh?

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
 
This thread is an interesting read Carl. Thank you!

:)
 
Here are some examples that I shot this afternoon using the sdQ with both the Kolari CC and IR R72.

Kolari on 18-35, custom in camera white balance



Same file processed in SPP 6.4 using daylight white balance

Quite a difference, obviously due to the Kolari filter transmission characteristic. I wonder if the "cooler" in-camera WBs like Shade or Overcast would be more suitable than Daylight? Just a thought, especially Shade.

Guess I'll find out soon enough, eh?
Picked up the Kolari and the 486 from the Post Office yesterday. Up in the early hours to play indoors with them on the full-spectrum SD1M, with the 17-50mm EX DC set to 50mm focal length.

For me, shooting the SD1M sans dust-cover with filters other than the "traditional" 720nm is a new experience. So I shot the color-checker card to see how it looks with those filters.

The B+W 486 required the least correction to get the mid-gray patch looking, well, mid-gray. But, down the sides of the corrected shot, some green appeared. First time I've seen that oft-reported coloration.

The Kolari, not surprisingly, required quite severe correction and, even then, the L*a*b* color accuracy was quite a bit off compared to the 486. Per my comment quoted above, Overcast WB was closest, needing a mere +13C +7Y in SPP 5.5.3 to get gray. Lighting for both was a "warm" LED strip-light, for which I usually set Incandescent in-cam, so changing from that to Overcast is quite a hop! No green coloration with the Kolari though.

Next step is outside shots armed with the Kodak white/gray card and the color-checker card . . .

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
 
Here are some examples that I shot this afternoon using the sdQ with both the Kolari CC and IR R72.

Kolari on 18-35, custom in camera white balance



Same file processed in SPP 6.4 using daylight white balance

Quite a difference, obviously due to the Kolari filter transmission characteristic. I wonder if the "cooler" in-camera WBs like Shade or Overcast would be more suitable than Daylight? Just a thought, especially Shade.

Guess I'll find out soon enough, eh?
Picked up the Kolari and the 486 from the Post Office yesterday. Up in the early hours to play indoors with them on the full-spectrum SD1M, with the 17-50mm EX DC set to 50mm focal length.

For me, shooting the SD1M sans dust-cover with filters other than the "traditional" 720nm is a new experience. So I shot the color-checker card to see how it looks with those filters.

The B+W 486 required the least correction to get the mid-gray patch looking, well, mid-gray. But, down the sides of the corrected shot, some green appeared. First time I've seen that oft-reported coloration.

The Kolari, not surprisingly, required quite severe correction and, even then, the L*a*b* color accuracy was quite a bit off compared to the 486. Per my comment quoted above, Overcast WB was closest, needing a mere +13C +7Y in SPP 5.5.3 to get gray. Lighting for both was a "warm" LED strip-light, for which I usually set Incandescent in-cam, so changing from that to Overcast is quite a hop! No green coloration with the Kolari though.

Next step is outside shots armed with the Kodak white/gray card and the color-checker card . . .

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
Use the gray/white card outdoors to make an in-camera custom white balance with the Kolari filter on the lens. You should not need to make any manual adjustments in SPP, just be sure to use the custom WB setting in SPP that will use the one written to the file from the camera.

--
Carl
Website: http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/
 
Here are some examples that I shot this afternoon using the sdQ with both the Kolari CC and IR R72.

Kolari on 18-35, custom in camera white balance



Same file processed in SPP 6.4 using daylight white balance

Quite a difference, obviously due to the Kolari filter transmission characteristic. I wonder if the "cooler" in-camera WBs like Shade or Overcast would be more suitable than Daylight? Just a thought, especially Shade.

Guess I'll find out soon enough, eh?
Picked up the Kolari and the 486 from the Post Office yesterday. Up in the early hours to play indoors with them on the full-spectrum SD1M, with the 17-50mm EX DC set to 50mm focal length.

For me, shooting the SD1M sans dust-cover with filters other than the "traditional" 720nm is a new experience. So I shot the color-checker card to see how it looks with those filters.

The B+W 486 required the least correction to get the mid-gray patch looking, well, mid-gray. But, down the sides of the corrected shot, some green appeared. First time I've seen that oft-reported coloration.

The Kolari, not surprisingly, required quite severe correction and, even then, the L*a*b* color accuracy was quite a bit off compared to the 486. Per my comment quoted above, Overcast WB was closest, needing a mere +13C +7Y in SPP 5.5.3 to get gray. Lighting for both was a "warm" LED strip-light, for which I usually set Incandescent in-cam, so changing from that to Overcast is quite a hop! No green coloration with the Kolari though.

Next step is outside shots armed with the Kodak white/gray card and the color-checker card . . .

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
Use the gray/white card outdoors to make an in-camera custom white balance with the Kolari filter on the lens. You should not need to make any manual adjustments in SPP, just be sure to use the custom WB setting in SPP that will use the one written to the file from the camera.
Thanks Carl,

Today I did try for a Custom WB with the Kolari but the SD1 was in a bad mood and wouldn't take it. Came as a bit of a shock because the SD1 is better than all my other Sigmas as accepting some pretty odd-ball scenes as "custom".

--
"What we've got hyah is Failyah to Communicate": 'Cool Hand Luke' 1967.
Ted
 
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