Compatibility of Nikon D500 and new Tamron SP150-600 G2 Lens?

GDocBirder

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I've been thinking about the D500 and the Tam. G2 lens. I understand (from the Tamron EU page which has a pull down of all compatible cameras) that there may be a compatibility issue with the new lens and the D500. Something about needing to be an AF lens as the camera has no internal AF motor? Has anyone else heard this or know what the situation is? Thanks
 
I tried mode 3 briefly, but it didn't seem to matter much. I know Tamron claims the 4.5 stops of stabilization is for mode 3, but I read a review somewhere that said mode 1 was actually better. Unfortunately, the viewfinder is pretty shaky in mode 3. I think the review said that could've been the reason why they didn't get as many keepers. Hopefully, some of the professional review sites write about this lens soon. I'm surprised there aren't more out yet.
 
I tried mode 3 briefly, but it didn't seem to matter much. I know Tamron claims the 4.5 stops of stabilization is for mode 3, but I read a review somewhere that said mode 1 was actually better. Unfortunately, the viewfinder is pretty shaky in mode 3. I think the review said that could've been the reason why they didn't get as many keepers. Hopefully, some of the professional review sites write about this lens soon. I'm surprised there aren't more out yet.
Mode 3 is definitely the way to go for two reasons. First off, it's better (my G2 gets about a 50% hit rate with a D500 at 1/40th of a second for me, vs 1/100th with my G1, and 1/200th with my old Siggy 150-500). Secondly, the shakiness of the viewfinder allows you to directly see how steady your technique is. My #1 issue with my G1's VC was that you had no idea if you were steady or not because the viewfinder image was rock solid (the G2's mode 1 does the same). The steadier you are, the more effective VC/VR will be.

I'll still use mode 1 most of the time because the steady view makes putting the AF point on target much easier, but when I want the maximum stability (from the VC and myself), mode 3 is the way to go. Most of the things I shoot (critters, birds, planes) don't hold still, so such slow shutter speeds aren't a good idea anyway. I'm also curious to try mode 2 out on fast-moving airplanes, hopefully the VC will stabilize along the full motion and not just shut off stabilization along the panning direction.

Sorry to hear about your issues with your lens's VC. Mine works great. I honestly did not expect to get that kind of improvement over the G1.

Another thing I like about Mode 3 is that there is no "settle" time. All of my other Tammy VC lenses require a half second or more of VC-on time (half-press the shutter) to fully stabilize, otherwise you degrade your image. Haven't tested the G2's Mode 1, but the mode 3 simply doesn't stabilize until the shutter opens, so it should be immune from this typical Tamron VC issue.

Good to hear your comments on the IQ (that it's largely a wash). I'll take the greater range with similar IQ over 1/3rd of a stop at the long end any day :) (plus the faster F stop at the wide end kind of makes up for it IMO). I also like that as Tamron refines their firmware and VC logic, I can download their updates, a big improvement from the G1, and finally matches the Sigma lenses in that regard.

I've been reviewing my images of my G1 at 600mm and F/6.3. One thing I'm seeing in the new lens vs those images were the lack of "haze" or fuzziness that I saw on the G1 (and the similarly-designed Sigma 150-500 it replaced). One of my shots of a hummingbird at 1600th of a second actually looked as sharp at F/6.3 as my typical shots are at F/9 on the G1.

This is all based on only a few dozen test shots I've taken. Hopefully I'll get a chance soon to do a more thorough shoot so I can really tell if it's noticeably better than the G1, but I do like the lack of haze/fuzziness at close distance shooting wide open at 600mm.
 
I just got the TAP-in Console and still trying to figure how to use it to do AF fine tuning... How does the Camera fine tuning affect this? I don't quite get this ! Any help/explanation would be appreciated.

BTW check my latest post on side by side comparison of the G1 and G2:

 
All good points. It's a good lens for sure. I probably just prefer the Nikon since I've gotten so used to it. The Tammy does appear sharp wide open if appropriate shutter speeds are used. As for the VC issue, it's not a huge deal since I've gotten sharp shots with it at 1/30 or so handheld, it's just a matter of taking several shots to make sure at least one is good. Shooting in continuous, high speed mode helps. Anyway, good luck with it and enjoy!

Here's one wide-open example from this afternoon:



16d7dce085cc47818b9f34cd5022a571.jpg
 
All good points. It's a good lens for sure. I probably just prefer the Nikon since I've gotten so used to it. The Tammy does appear sharp wide open if appropriate shutter speeds are used. As for the VC issue, it's not a huge deal since I've gotten sharp shots with it at 1/30 or so handheld, it's just a matter of taking several shots to make sure at least one is good. Shooting in continuous, high speed mode helps. Anyway, good luck with it and enjoy!

Here's one wide-open example from this afternoon:
Looks ok to me.


--
Alan.
Great photography is about depth of feeling, not depth of field.
- Peter Adams
Believe in Karma.
 
I just got the TAP-in Console and still trying to figure how to use it to do AF fine tuning... How does the Camera fine tuning affect this? I don't quite get this ! Any help/explanation would be appreciated.

BTW check my latest post on side by side comparison of the G1 and G2:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58450680
I would not trust afft with the D500. I use FoCal and compared to afft the results can be wildly different. FoCal is repeatable and afft is not for me under the same testing environment.

My understanding of the dock is that you can fine tune at 4 focal lengths and distances. This will compensate for any kind of focus shift from near to far. However to make it work honest you need a good repeatable fine tuning procedure..
 
Those side-by-side photos you just uploaded are great for comparison. The Tamron definitely looks to have better image quality!
Thanks. It's tricky to compare handheld shots. So far, a few of the Nikon ones look better, but to be honest, I think more of the Tamron shots are sharper. VR seems to be better on the Nikon, though. I guess I will take this out and see if I can get some better shots in the field. Tough decision as to whether I should keep or not.

The last two shots of that AC unit in my album are a good example. I fired off 3 or 4 shots, and I think all the Nikon's were keepers. One of the Tamron's was blurred. BUT, the Tamron seems sharper. Look at the white label near the lower-right corner. The Tamron version appears sharper to me.
Thanks for doing this!

I think the Nikon looks sharper in pretty much all images. But the focus seems to be different in some of the images so it's a bit hard to compare.

Maybe some shots of a tripod with both lenses at 500mm?

Again, thanks for sharing your findings.
 
I would not trust afft with the D500. I use FoCal and compared to afft the results can be wildly different. FoCal is repeatable and afft is not for me under the same testing environment.
I hate to take this thread off topic, but I'd like to discuss FoCal with you, Kris. So, I'll start a new thread and put a pointer here .
My understanding of the dock is that you can fine tune at 4 focal lengths and distances. This will compensate for any kind of focus shift from near to far. However to make it work honest you need a good repeatable fine tuning procedure..
Exactly. Normally, I'd use the Lens Align system, but if FoCal works better, then that is the way I'd like to go.

thanks

Kerry
 
No prob. Yeah, it was tough to compare because I think the focus points were slightly different in each shot. To me, both lenses seemed sharp enough, but I just wasn't having good luck with the Tamron VC. I'm a bit spoiled by Nikon because VR on the 200-500 is probably the best I've seen.

Unfortunately, I decided not to keep the lens, but I'm sure others will do further testing. I was testing under the normal conditions I shoot these lenses: wide open (usually) and handheld (almost always), but it would be good to see some more precise testing done from a tripod.
 
I decided to go with the Nikon 200-500mm solely because I didn't want to spend time adjusting focus and pixel-peeping to verify if my adjustments in tap-in console were correct. If not for this criteria, I nearly went mad in trying to decide between these excellent lenses.
 
I decided to go with the Nikon 200-500mm solely because I didn't want to spend time adjusting focus and pixel-peeping to verify if my adjustments in tap-in console were correct. If not for this criteria, I nearly went mad in trying to decide between these excellent lenses.
So your 200-500 has no focus shift at various distances or focal lengths?
 
I decided to go with the Nikon 200-500mm solely because I didn't want to spend time adjusting focus and pixel-peeping to verify if my adjustments in tap-in console were correct. If not for this criteria, I nearly went mad in trying to decide between these excellent lenses.
I agree. I've never messed with focus fine tuning on any of my Nikon lenses. To be honest, I'm a little afraid I'd make things worse. IMO, a lens (especially an expensive one) should be acceptably sharp right out of the box.

In my very limited experience with the Tamron, it was sharp enough for me without any tweaking.
 
Any updates on how the new Tamron performs? I have waited several weeks on getting the Nikon 200-500, but I am about to just go ahead and purchase it. Doesnt seem like I can go wrong with it and Tamron G2 doesnt seem to be overly impressing anyone?
 
I've been waiting for some professional reviews of the G2, but haven't seen any yet.
 
No prob. For the same price or less, I would buy the Nikon, too (I did) =) Surprisingly, the difference between 500 and 600mm really isn't significant, even on a crop-sensor camera.
 

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