Reading mode: Light Dark

Sony A7 - Underexposure Issues

Go to last post
D

Doug Willis

Active member
Messages
58
Reaction score
19
Location
Melbourne, AU
I purchased a Sony A7 a few months ago and have been travelling Asia and Europe with it ever since new. Since day 1, I have noticed that shots are always usually a little underexposed. Highlights are exposed well, but shadow areas are always too dark and lack distinguishing detail. I expected after a while I would get used to the camera and be able to correct this. This has not been the situation. I still get poor detail in the shadows and a tendency to underexpose, even when I have sometimes added 2/3 to a full stop of additional exposure compensation. This is beginning to annoy me a little as this camera should provided accurate and good exposures in normal situations using an Auto mode.

Maybe I have the exposure settings incorrect, I think this camera as a multi point measuring meter which is meant to provide an average exposure. It always seems to be too contrasty or that there is not a smooth transition from deep shadow to bright highlight.

Has anyone else experienced this with the A7 and/or have suggestions about how to smooth out the extremes. I find myself using Lightrooms shadow compensation to bring up shadow detail on nearly every pic I take.

Help and advice needed.
 
I have the same problems with my A7S. The live images in the EVF look fantastic with great shadow detail. But soon as I check the same image in the LCD, blacks appear crushed and contrasty. When they are exported to my desktop they appear more like the LCD view and less like the well exposed images from the EVF.

Has anyone experienced this/solved it?
 
Many people seem to forget that the previews in the EVF/LCD is based upon OOC JPEG. If you import the RAW files and view in your computer LCD it will definitely look different
 
ZeneticX said:
Many people seem to forget that the previews in the EVF/LCD is based upon OOC JPEG. If you import the RAW files and view in your computer LCD it will definitely look different
Click to expand...
 
If you have DRO turn on, that it reduces exposure to maintain the highlights then boost the shadows. The result is that the raw file seems under exposed.
 
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
 
That's why I never used DRO Auto although that's the recommendation most of the time. I personally set it to Level 3, I feel that's the balanced level for previews on the camera and expectation for the RAW files.
 
Mathieu18 said:
If you have DRO turn on, that it reduces exposure to maintain the highlights then boost the shadows. The result is that the raw file seems under exposed.
Click to expand...
 
ZeneticX said:
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
Click to expand...
I've contemplated just going to histogram. It's also jpg based - right? Do you also find you have a little more latitude than the histogram indicates?
 
stevo23 said:
ZeneticX said:
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
Click to expand...
I've contemplated just going to histogram. It's also jpg based - right? Do you also find you have a little more latitude than the histogram indicates?
Click to expand...
Yes it's also jpeg based but at least it's closer to what you would expect from your RAW file most of the time, since the camera is able to reproduce the histogram based on the processing then theoretically the RAW file shouldn't be bad right?

and as mentioned above I usually set my DRO to LV 3, so the processing won't be too aggressive for the previews.


one thing to note is that I exclusively use C1 Pro, which is well known for it's highlight and shadow recovery.

--
ZEN Escapes
My Website
Facebook Page
 
Last edited:
stevo23 said:
ZeneticX said:
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
Click to expand...
I've contemplated just going to histogram. It's also jpg based - right? Do you also find you have a little more latitude than the histogram indicates?
Click to expand...
if you want to avoid guessing you need to use UniWB - that's the only way to get zebra/blinkies/histogram to show clipping in raw based on OOC JPG data (witin <= 1/3 EV precision)

for example I use on my A7R2 the following
OOC JPG settings to have proper zebra/blinkies indication for clipping in raw :
WB = UniWB
DRO/Auto HDR = D-Range Opt./DRO Lv5
Creative Style = Neutral (contrast -3, saturation -3, sharpness +3)
Color Space = sRGB /AdobeRGB theoretically shall be better, but sRGB works just fine/
Zebra = 100+

or the minimal set I suggest is (the rest is for taste) :
WB = UniWB
Creative Style = Neutral (contrast -3, saturation -3, ...)
Zebra = 100+

or for those who don't like greenish UniWB - Using "Picture Profile" settings to have proper zebra/blinkies indication for clipping in raw : ( http://helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/cover/level1_02.html )

Gamma = Cine3 (reason : allows ISO below 800 + curve itself)... Cine2 might be an option
Knee = Auto (may be manual for Cine3 = Point :105%, Slope +5)
Saturation = -32 (and removes green tint too with Setting Effect = ON)
Color Mode = S-Gamut

Color Phase = 0
Color Depth = 0s

Black Gamma = Wide/+7 (reason : darker areas = brighter)
Black Level = +15 (reason : darker areas = brighter)
 
ZeneticX said:
stevo23 said:
ZeneticX said:
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
Click to expand...
I've contemplated just going to histogram. It's also jpg based - right? Do you also find you have a little more latitude than the histogram indicates?
Click to expand...
Yes it's also jpeg based but at least it's closer to what you would expect from your RAW file most of the time, since the camera is able to reproduce the histogram based on the processing then theoretically the RAW file shouldn't be bad right?

and as mentioned above I usually set my DRO to LV 3, so the processing won't be too aggressive for the previews.
Click to expand...
Are you sort of using DRO as an aid to improve the accuracy of the in-camera histograms?
ZeneticX said:
one thing to note is that I exclusively use C1 Pro, which is well known for it's highlight and shadow recovery.
Click to expand...
I have it too, maybe I should use it more often.
 
stevo23 said:
I was under the impression that DRO didn't just reduce exposure but compressed highlights.
Click to expand...
In raw it just reduces the exposure. In JPEG, when the midtone and shadows are bumped, highlights need to be compressed - or clipped, if one is trying to be funny.
stevo23 said:
I'm pretty sure this is what's happening in Nikon
Click to expand...
Same for raw, and same for JPEG. Actually all those things are based on the same intellectual property.
 
exdeejjjaaaa said:
stevo23 said:
ZeneticX said:
Personally I never used zebras but I'm aware of their usefulness in highlights monitoring. I just rely on the histogram all the time, then use the exposure compensation dial to dial back if highlights get clipped. Works most of the time for me, and I'm a 100% RAW shooter.
Click to expand...
I've contemplated just going to histogram. It's also jpg based - right? Do you also find you have a little more latitude than the histogram indicates?
Click to expand...
if you want to avoid guessing you need to use UniWB - that's the only way to get zebra/blinkies/histogram to show clipping in raw based on OOC JPG data (witin <= 1/3 EV precision)

for example I use on my A7R2 the following
OOC JPG settings to have proper zebra/blinkies indication for clipping in raw :
WB = UniWB
DRO/Auto HDR = D-Range Opt./DRO Lv5
Creative Style = Neutral (contrast -3, saturation -3, sharpness +3)
Color Space = sRGB /AdobeRGB theoretically shall be better, but sRGB works just fine/
Zebra = 100+

or the minimal set I suggest is (the rest is for taste) :
WB = UniWB
Creative Style = Neutral (contrast -3, saturation -3, ...)
Zebra = 100+

or for those who don't like greenish UniWB - Using "Picture Profile" settings to have proper zebra/blinkies indication for clipping in raw : ( http://helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/cover/level1_02.html )
Gamma = Cine3 (reason : allows ISO below 800 + curve itself)... Cine2 might be an option
Knee = Auto (may be manual for Cine3 = Point :105%, Slope +5)
Saturation = -32 (and removes green tint too with Setting Effect = ON)
Color Mode = S-Gamut

Color Phase = 0
Color Depth = 0s

Black Gamma = Wide/+7 (reason : darker areas = brighter)
Black Level = +15 (reason : darker areas = brighter)
Click to expand...
Okay - I'm going to save this. I had tried to set up a UniWb in my A7 and got nothing helpful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top