Need advice & help on getting rid of haze in landscapes in PP

Go to Color effects Pro 4 . . . FREE. It's a PS CC plug in. Select Tonal Contrast under Landscapes. Adjust sliders to taste. Only way to fly.

This took mere seconds. Not a great picture (I don't put those out). The saturation is a little much but was done for you to see the possibilities.

bdd5d02d2fb84bb086e24a20394ea4b1.jpg

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Steve Bingham
www.dustylens.com
www.ghost-town-photography.com
Latest postings are always at the bottom of each page.
 
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Clear view in DxO, or dehaze in ACR
 
Don't know how much this one can be "helped"
Don't know how much this one can be "helped"
c3e02a43d49d42649eed39b7aaf842a9.jpg

Most pictures can be saved in one or another way, but they might of course not fit everyones taste, too dark, too vibrant, too contrasty, too...something...if in doubt try B&W

Anyway, I did a quick play with On1 Photo10 whick I find quite brilliant these days. Selectively increased the contrast, darkened some, a little vignette, vibrance and some more...

You can also increase the in camera contrast, vibrance, sharpening and that will affect jpg out of the camera. DPP will also use those settings when it initially opens a raw from the camera

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http://rune.zenfolio.com/
 
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This thread is a great example of 'one program doesn't do it all'!

We all 'push' our favorite programs when in reality most programs can do 'most' things! Well sort of. But the key to this thread, and many others, is not just the program but more about knowing your program.

Some great ideas.

regards
 
ACR. One click on the pull down menu in ACR called fx click on dehaze and use slider to taste. I forgot about this simple trick! :) Getting old, I guess.
 
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Most of my photography is landscapes and scenic. If I don't own the software, I'll buy it.

Thanks in advance,

Kent
I'm getting off-tangent from your specific request for help in PP

For landscape, I use graduated ND filter to control the sky and background brightness / haze.

I seldom post process but when I do, I use Nikon Capture NX2. I use the "Color Point" to enhance the details, contrast, exposure to give the shot a pop. I don't know if Nikon Capture NX2 will work with Canon raw file.

 
Thanks "young" Jim. I'm "young" Kent at almost 75. DXO is on my "to get" list.

Kent
 
Canon software doesn't offer these fixes. I ask you to look at what the responders did to improve my landscape photos with the haze in the distance. They did a great job and I rest my case.

This is what I was looking for.

Kent
 
ACR, Topaz Clarity, selective color, curves, shadows/highlights



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We need to be careful with these sorts of adjustments. Unfortunately our environment is such that that blue 'haze' is all to common and is now a common component of our photos. So the question becomes - "is it 'realistic' to remove all the haze?"

Like shadows, is it realistic to open up our shadows so we can see everything and thus remove the dark spots that really were there?

Some of the above suggestions give excellent results. While others are simply removing that 'color cast' from the entire image. Before anyone uses any of the above suggestions I would urge caution about how much haze is actually removed. There is a danger with 'clever' software that we will eventually forget what we observed in preference to what we hoped we observed.

regards
 
I somewhat agree with you about making photos unrealistic. That's why I added the caption to the 3 boats photo that it should probably be left as is. I also think that what we see with our eyes doesn't have as much haze as what the photos show. Just my thoughts.

That's why I never use anything but "natural" when I combine exposure bracketed photos.

Thanks for your comments.

Kent
 
We need to be careful with these sorts of adjustments. Unfortunately our environment is such that that blue 'haze' is all to common and is now a common component of our photos. So the question becomes - "is it 'realistic' to remove all the haze?"

Like shadows, is it realistic to open up our shadows so we can see everything and thus remove the dark spots that really were there?

Some of the above suggestions give excellent results. While others are simply removing that 'color cast' from the entire image. Before anyone uses any of the above suggestions I would urge caution about how much haze is actually removed. There is a danger with 'clever' software that we will eventually forget what we observed in preference to what we hoped we observed.

regards
 
We need to be careful with these sorts of adjustments. Unfortunately our environment is such that that blue 'haze' is all to common and is now a common component of our photos. So the question becomes - "is it 'realistic' to remove all the haze?"

Like shadows, is it realistic to open up our shadows so we can see everything and thus remove the dark spots that really were there?

Some of the above suggestions give excellent results. While others are simply removing that 'color cast' from the entire image. Before anyone uses any of the above suggestions I would urge caution about how much haze is actually removed. There is a danger with 'clever' software that we will eventually forget what we observed in preference to what we hoped we observed.

regards
 
I live on the Beach, and our most frequent wind is Easterly. There is always a fine layer of salt in the air, especially if the surf is up! Sometimes people mistake it for fog. Removing it is a must for me, and Clear View does the job, as do other software's demonstrated here!

Warmest regards,
 
Is Clear View part of a software package? If so, which one? If not, do you have a link for it? I tried to find it on the internet and got a lot of "Clear View's" but none were close to removing haze.

Thanks,

Kent
 
"Is Clear View part of a software package? If so, which one?"

DxO
 
Thanks!

Kent
 
We need to be careful with these sorts of adjustments. Unfortunately our environment is such that that blue 'haze' is all to common and is now a common component of our photos. So the question becomes - "is it 'realistic' to remove all the haze?"

Like shadows, is it realistic to open up our shadows so we can see everything and thus remove the dark spots that really were there?

Some of the above suggestions give excellent results. While others are simply removing that 'color cast' from the entire image. Before anyone uses any of the above suggestions I would urge caution about how much haze is actually removed. There is a danger with 'clever' software that we will eventually forget what we observed in preference to what we hoped we observed.

regards
 

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