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The A1 looks nice but..... and other reasons to keep your D7xx

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uglyren

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I'm writing this partially to make D7xx owners feel better but mainly to make myself feel better ! :)

What does the A1 really offer you over the D7xx?

CCD IS? How do you even know if it works well? If you really needed IS you'd have bought a DLSR with super long teles and all that wonderful stuff. At only 200mm good technique, a tripod or taking multiple shots in continous mode will improve your results.

Same lens. You'll still be pulling hairs out of your head trying to find TCs, WAs and filters that work with it!!

More DOF? Some may praise the increase in DOF to F11. Sorry but I need a decrease in DOF. You all know you'd kill for F2.0 or lower. If I've lost you with the DOF talk then your fine with what you have already and you should stop reading now and go out to practice a little.

Same CCD. Some people have speculated that the CCD is not the same because it supports a progressive scan mode but so did the Oly E20 (same sony 2/3 as D7xx) . They used it to achieve the 1/18000 shutter speed and the A1 now supports 1/16000th. Guess what though? The E20 was limited to 2.5 mp at that shutter speed. Will the A1 be the same?

The A1 needs a propriatary battery now. Sorry but nothing is more convieniant than AAs. If you need more juice for your D7xx buy a DPS 9000 and keep your AAs for backup.

I'll give it credit for faster AF. With 11 point auto focus it's hard to argue that it will not be fast. Still judging from past behaviour, Minolta could tweak existing D7xx AF speed with a firmware upgrade.

Noise reduction? Easy firmware update. Besides on the rare occasion that you actually see noise in your pictures rather than in 100% crop examples you saw on the internet you can easily fix it with neatimage. (Please Oracles of noise, no flaming!! :) )

A camera is like a lover. If you choose carefully in the first place you should be able to maintain a long happy relationship. If you frequently change partners you will never find true happiness. Make a comittment and get to know your camera for awhile your photography will only benefit.

Garnet
 
uglyren said:
I'm writing this partially to make D7xx owners feel better but
mainly to make myself feel better ! :)

What does the A1 really offer you over the D7xx?

CCD IS? How do you even know if it works well? If you really
needed IS you'd have bought a DLSR with super long teles and all
that wonderful stuff. At only 200mm good technique, a tripod or
taking multiple shots in continous mode will improve your results.

Same lens. You'll still be pulling hairs out of your head trying
to find TCs, WAs and filters that work with it!!

More DOF? Some may praise the increase in DOF to F11. Sorry but
I need a decrease in DOF. You all know you'd kill for F2.0 or
lower. If I've lost you with the DOF talk then your fine with what
you have already and you should stop reading now and go out to
practice a little.

Same CCD. Some people have speculated that the CCD is not the same
because it supports a progressive scan mode but so did the Oly E20
(same sony 2/3 as D7xx) . They used it to achieve the 1/18000
shutter speed and the A1 now supports 1/16000th. Guess what
though? The E20 was limited to 2.5 mp at that shutter speed. Will
the A1 be the same?

The A1 needs a propriatary battery now. Sorry but nothing is more
convieniant than AAs. If you need more juice for your D7xx buy a
DPS 9000 and keep your AAs for backup.

I'll give it credit for faster AF. With 11 point auto focus it's
hard to argue that it will not be fast. Still judging from past
behaviour, Minolta could tweak existing D7xx AF speed with a
firmware upgrade.

Noise reduction? Easy firmware update. Besides on the rare
occasion that you actually see noise in your pictures rather than
in 100% crop examples you saw on the internet you can easily fix it
with neatimage. (Please Oracles of noise, no flaming!! :) )

A camera is like a lover. If you choose carefully in the first
place you should be able to maintain a long happy relationship. If
you frequently change partners you will never find true happiness.
Make a comittment and get to know your camera for awhile your
photography will only benefit.

Garnet
Click to expand...
Garnet,

You certainly make some good points, but with digital cameras being a fairly new industry and with technology changing so rapidly we have a few problems to confront.

I really love my D7i, but a few things really irritate me. Focusing, dynamic range etc. If thay have overcome those irritations, why shouldn't I move to the A1? I should be that much closer to a real relationship.

Besides, If you want Minolta to stay in business, you must buy their products. Do we get our monies worth? I think so - I have taken more pictures in one year with the D7i (over 12000) than I have with all my film cameras put together(40yrs 20 or more cameras). I have also enjoyed photography more than ever before!

Yes Thanks Minolta - I will support you - I will buy your new camera!

My D7i will get passed on to one of my children to enjoy!

http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
 
Jim Gregerson said:
uglyren said:
I'm writing this partially to make D7xx owners feel better but
mainly to make myself feel better ! :)

What does the A1 really offer you over the D7xx?

CCD IS? How do you even know if it works well? If you really
needed IS you'd have bought a DLSR with super long teles and all
that wonderful stuff. At only 200mm good technique, a tripod or
taking multiple shots in continous mode will improve your results.

Same lens. You'll still be pulling hairs out of your head trying
to find TCs, WAs and filters that work with it!!

More DOF? Some may praise the increase in DOF to F11. Sorry but
I need a decrease in DOF. You all know you'd kill for F2.0 or
lower. If I've lost you with the DOF talk then your fine with what
you have already and you should stop reading now and go out to
practice a little.

Same CCD. Some people have speculated that the CCD is not the same
because it supports a progressive scan mode but so did the Oly E20
(same sony 2/3 as D7xx) . They used it to achieve the 1/18000
shutter speed and the A1 now supports 1/16000th. Guess what
though? The E20 was limited to 2.5 mp at that shutter speed. Will
the A1 be the same?

The A1 needs a propriatary battery now. Sorry but nothing is more
convieniant than AAs. If you need more juice for your D7xx buy a
DPS 9000 and keep your AAs for backup.

I'll give it credit for faster AF. With 11 point auto focus it's
hard to argue that it will not be fast. Still judging from past
behaviour, Minolta could tweak existing D7xx AF speed with a
firmware upgrade.

Noise reduction? Easy firmware update. Besides on the rare
occasion that you actually see noise in your pictures rather than
in 100% crop examples you saw on the internet you can easily fix it
with neatimage. (Please Oracles of noise, no flaming!! :) )

A camera is like a lover. If you choose carefully in the first
place you should be able to maintain a long happy relationship. If
you frequently change partners you will never find true happiness.
Make a comittment and get to know your camera for awhile your
photography will only benefit.

Garnet
Click to expand...
Garnet,
You certainly make some good points, but with digital cameras being
a fairly new industry and with technology changing so rapidly we
have a few problems to confront.
I really love my D7i, but a few things really irritate me.
Focusing, dynamic range etc. If thay have overcome those
irritations, why shouldn't I move to the A1? I should be that much
closer to a real relationship.
Besides, If you want Minolta to stay in business, you must buy
their products. Do we get our monies worth? I think so - I have
taken more pictures in one year with the D7i (over 12000) than I
have with all my film cameras put together(40yrs 20 or more
cameras). I have also enjoyed photography more than ever before!

Yes Thanks Minolta - I will support you - I will buy your new camera!

My D7i will get passed on to one of my children to enjoy!

http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
Click to expand...
Jim

Your right, the industry is changing quickly but should we have to pay for R&D every 6 months? There will always be something "better" coming out.

Minolta has to keep inventing reasons (mostly marketing hype) for us to buy their products. Problem is some of these so called improvements may have people believing they can pay for better images when better technique may be all they need.

I'm 100% with you on the AF and dynamic range issues but if it's really a problem for you then buy a DSLR not an A1. A 2/3 ccd with contrast AF will A ) never focus as fast as a DSLR ccd and B) never have the same dynamic range or low noise properties. If you could afford to change cameras every year then you can afford to invest in a good dslr. A D7xx type camera will always be a compramise when compared with a dslr. But it's a compramise I can afford and live with for awhile.

I bought my D7I last Aug knowing something better would come out shortly. I paid $1400 cdn + tax. This is a hell of alot to pay for a camera by the average persons standards. I could torture myself thinking about why I need the latest Tech. Instead I choose to think about why I don't.

Winters are cold here in Montreal so I really only used my D7i this summer and last fall. In that time I've taken some excellent and some not so excellent photos. Friends and family are amazed at the quality of pictures I take. Would me spending more money amaze them even more? I don't think so. What they don't realize about my pictures is that for every great shot they see, I took 20 others of the same subject at various angles and settings until I nailed it! As my technique improves I'll take even less to get it right.

If you can afford to upgrade then go for it but do it for the right reasons not because Minolta has a good marketing team.

Cheers
Garnet
 
Garnet,

Don't be affraid to use your D7i in the winter. Just don't keep it out in cold for more than 1/2 hr or so depending on temp at a time and do't let it get wet.



No I can't afford a DSLR - there is a big difference in $1000 US and $3000 or more for a DSLR. Besides I really like the 28 to 200mm lens and ease of use of the D7i.

The A1 may have it's roots in the D7 group but as far as I can see it is a quantum leap in new technology to add to the single carryover - that beautiful 28 to 20mm lens. I think Minolta did all the right things to keep me from jumping to a dslr.

In my search for a good dslr I noticed, that to cover the 28 to 200 range and macro, I would have to buy 2 lenses and go through the extra pain of changing lenses. There is that long lens range I would like to have 400mm + but that may be only 5% of my shooting needs - the 28 to 200 covers 90 to 95% of my needs. If I was a pro shooting wildlife or airshows, maybe it would be different.

I see the ad conver is 14bit - this should increase the dynamac range, probably my biggest beef. Maybe we don't really need a dslr

--
http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
 
uglyren said:
I'm writing this partially to make D7xx owners feel better but
mainly to make myself feel better ! :)

What does the A1 really offer you over the D7xx?

CCD IS? How do you even know if it works well? If you really
needed IS you'd have bought a DLSR with super long teles and all
that wonderful stuff. At only 200mm good technique, a tripod or
taking multiple shots in continous mode will improve your results.
Click to expand...
Humm:

I went to Antarctica with a Minolta 9 with lenses from a 21-35 zoom through a 300mm/2.8 with matched TCs. I also took a Kenyon Labs KS-8 stabilizer platform. I used this platform on both the 300/2.8 and the 80-200 zoom.

I also tried a friend's Canon 500/f4 IS lens mounted on EOS-1V body.

A lot of people talk about handholding very long teles with IS but let me tell you handholding a 500EOS-1v combo to photgraph birds/penguins etc is not easy. Most of the time he had that lens on a tripod (in which case the IS is switchedoff) or a Monopod where there may be limitations. The same was true with me. I used the stabilizer platform to get pictures of birds in flight and with a 300mm + 2x TC to get penguins on an ice flow. Trying to track Birds in flight with a narrow field of view witha very heavy lens/body combo is nota recipt for success. Out of about 5 rolls of films , I got maybe 10 that were decent and about 3 that were really solid
I'll bet 80% of the 2400 images I took was with the 80-200/2.8 zoom

Where IS IMO does shine is with lightweight lens such as the 100-300/400 zoom at the F4-5.6 range and 70-200 premium fast zooms becuase these are manageable. Now thses are very manageable weight wise and are far easier to track birds in flight with.

It does strike me that with a TCON-17(?) on the A1 you would have a 400/3.5 stablized lens that is really lightweight. I seriously could have lived with that

That would be a serious plus, IMO

Just some thoughts
Tim
 
Jim Gregerson said:
I see the ad conver is 14bit - this should increase the dynamac
range, probably my biggest beef. Maybe we don't really need a dslr
Click to expand...
Hi Jim,

Just a remark:

The conversion bit depth has nothing to do with the dynamic range of the sensor. When going from 12 to 14 bit you (we?, maybe even I?) are simply getting more precission in A to D conversion, i.e. the dynamic range of the sensor (exposure range) is just expressed in more (4*) numbers...

I think this is a common misbelief in the digital era!

Dynamic range can be evaluated in a different way. A scene with known dynamic range can be captured, and checked for detail. When detail is lost in the bright or dark area's, the limits of the sensor are reached...

Of course, A/D conversion accuracy will help in getting the most from the available dynamic range.

Just my two (euro-) cents,

Greetings,
Auke Nauta
 
Tim:

I have an Oly B-300 (TCON-17 equivalent) and using basic camera hold techniques w/my &7Hi get sharp pics at f3.5 at 1/200. Also you only get about 340 not 400mm with this TC...
Timothy S Broadley said:
It does strike me that with a TCON-17(?) on the A1 you would have a
400/3.5 stablized lens that is really lightweight. >
Click to expand...
 
Garnet:

I agree w/your points. I've had a D7Hi for about 8 mos. and see nothing that would make me switch to the A1. The IS will add little to a 28-200mm lens. On my Olympus 2100UZ it's great as with the B-300 TC I can go from 35 to 646mm w/o camera shake.

I can't recall a blurred 200mm D7Hi photo so far, and the other features largely are incidental for me unless the EVF and A/F speed are dramatically
improved.

A nice camera, but not enough of an improvement for me to upgrade.

John
 
Auke Nauta said:
Jim Gregerson said:
I see the ad conver is 14bit - this should increase the dynamac
range, probably my biggest beef. Maybe we don't really need a dslr
Click to expand...
Hi Jim,

Just a remark:
The conversion bit depth has nothing to do with the dynamic range
of the sensor. When going from 12 to 14 bit you (we?, maybe even
I?) are simply getting more precission in A to D conversion, i.e.
the dynamic range of the sensor (exposure range) is just expressed
in more (4*) numbers...

I think this is a common misbelief in the digital era!

Dynamic range can be evaluated in a different way. A scene with
known dynamic range can be captured, and checked for detail. When
detail is lost in the bright or dark area's, the limits of the
sensor are reached...

Of course, A/D conversion accuracy will help in getting the most
from the available dynamic range.

Just my two (euro-) cents,

Greetings,
Auke Nauta
Click to expand...
Sorry I got that from a Kodak Sensor tech report.

Dynamic range is sometimes characterized
by the number of gray levels in a
camera system which is a measure of
how much contrast an image can display.
An 8-bit digital system can produce
256 gray levels, whereas a 10-bit
system can provide 1024 gray levels.

Of course I understand that the CCD must also support 14 bit, which I don't know yet, I hope it does.
--
http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
 
Jim Gregerson said:
Sorry I got that from a Kodak Sensor tech report.

Dynamic range is sometimes characterized
by the number of gray levels in a
camera system which is a measure of
how much contrast an image can display.
An 8-bit digital system can produce
256 gray levels, whereas a 10-bit
system can provide 1024 gray levels.
Click to expand...
Hi again, Jim!

I'm sorry but this is simply not true.

The number of gray levels has nothing to do with the dynamic range of the imaging sensor.

I'll try to clarify this with an example:

Suppose our imaginary sensor has a dynamic range of '3 log(Exposure)'.

What this means is that the maximum difference in light intensity the sensor is capable of recording is a factor of 1000 (10^3). Or, if you want, we can expres this range in f-stops, which would amount to nearly 10 (2^10=1024).

Next, this analogue signal must be converted to a digital one by the A/D converter. Suppose we have an 8-bit A/D converter. Let's futher suppose we have an analogue signal (representing the full dynamic range of the sensor) ranging from 0 to 1023 mV.

The 8 bit conversion means we can use 2^8=256 steps to describe this voltage range.

This means each digital step (20 to 21, or 243 to 244) represents approximately 4 mV. The total voltage range is thus digitised with an accuracy of 4 mV.

Now, let's assume we replace the A/D converter with a -more accurate- 12 bit version. This 12-bit conversion means we can use 2^12=4096 steps to describe the same voltage range. So now, each digital step represents not 4 but 0.25 mV.

The voltage range is now digitised more accurately (2^4=16 times), yet the voltage range itself did not change at all!

Sensor dynamic range would only increase by re-design, increasing the log E range.

I hope this helps...

Greetings,
Auke

P.S. Don't believe everything that's written down.....
 
All this sounds good, but I will wait for the DSLR if and when it comes out. I love my 7i, and I don't see any reason to loose alot of money on something that is only a slight improvement over what I have.

But it is fun to see all the rantings over the A1. Hey Phil you only had a few hours with the prototype, how come you haven't answered all the million of questions on it ye, give Phil a chance.
uglyren said:
I'm writing this partially to make D7xx owners feel better but
mainly to make myself feel better ! :)

What does the A1 really offer you over the D7xx?

CCD IS? How do you even know if it works well? If you really
needed IS you'd have bought a DLSR with super long teles and all
that wonderful stuff. At only 200mm good technique, a tripod or
taking multiple shots in continous mode will improve your results.

Same lens. You'll still be pulling hairs out of your head trying
to find TCs, WAs and filters that work with it!!

More DOF? Some may praise the increase in DOF to F11. Sorry but
I need a decrease in DOF. You all know you'd kill for F2.0 or
lower. If I've lost you with the DOF talk then your fine with what
you have already and you should stop reading now and go out to
practice a little.

Same CCD. Some people have speculated that the CCD is not the same
because it supports a progressive scan mode but so did the Oly E20
(same sony 2/3 as D7xx) . They used it to achieve the 1/18000
shutter speed and the A1 now supports 1/16000th. Guess what
though? The E20 was limited to 2.5 mp at that shutter speed. Will
the A1 be the same?

The A1 needs a propriatary battery now. Sorry but nothing is more
convieniant than AAs. If you need more juice for your D7xx buy a
DPS 9000 and keep your AAs for backup.

I'll give it credit for faster AF. With 11 point auto focus it's
hard to argue that it will not be fast. Still judging from past
behaviour, Minolta could tweak existing D7xx AF speed with a
firmware upgrade.

Noise reduction? Easy firmware update. Besides on the rare
occasion that you actually see noise in your pictures rather than
in 100% crop examples you saw on the internet you can easily fix it
with neatimage. (Please Oracles of noise, no flaming!! :) )

A camera is like a lover. If you choose carefully in the first
place you should be able to maintain a long happy relationship. If
you frequently change partners you will never find true happiness.
Make a comittment and get to know your camera for awhile your
photography will only benefit.

Garnet
Click to expand...
 
I have no doubt; sorry I thought the TCON-17 was a 2x

I guess was I was comparing to was the weight on a Minolta 9 with a 300m/2.8 and a stablizer platform is 16 pounds approximately. The Canon EOS-1v with the 500/f4 IS on it was around 13/14 Lbs as I recall

I got sharp photos with the 300/2x combo and the stabilizer at 1/90s and 1/60s but tracking animals was difficult because of the weight and the inertia. I would over shoot with ease. I was simply trying to compare very long/fast teles on a DLSR with a A1 and a Tele add on.

Much easier with a 340/2.8 IS combo , I think at 1/60s and below
John Macri said:
I have an Oly B-300 (TCON-17 equivalent) and using basic camera
hold techniques w/my &7Hi get sharp pics at f3.5 at 1/200. Also you
only get about 340 not 400mm with this TC...
Timothy S Broadley said:
It does strike me that with a TCON-17(?) on the A1 you would have a
400/3.5 stablized lens that is really lightweight. >
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Tim:

I defintely agree that a 340/2.8 at 1/60s requires IS. Or a really good monopod...

John
Timothy S Broadley said:
I got sharp photos with the 300/2x combo and the stabilizer at
1/90s and 1/60s but tracking animals was difficult because of the
weight and the inertia. I would over shoot with ease. I was simply
trying to compare very long/fast teles on a DLSR with a A1 and a
Tele add on.

Much easier with a 340/2.8 IS combo , I think at 1/60s and below
John Macri said:
I have an Oly B-300 (TCON-17 equivalent) and using basic camera
hold techniques w/my &7Hi get sharp pics at f3.5 at 1/200. Also you
only get about 340 not 400mm with this TC...
Timothy S Broadley said:
It does strike me that with a TCON-17(?) on the A1 you would have a
400/3.5 stablized lens that is really lightweight. >
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Jim Gregerson said:
Garnet,
Don't be affraid to use your D7i in the winter. Just don't keep it
out in cold for more than 1/2 hr or so depending on temp at a time
and do't let it get wet.
Click to expand...
Do you have any specific reasons for using it so sparingly in the cold?

I am looking to upgrade my Sony 505v this fall, and have had no problems using it for several hours at -10F or even on the tripod for over an hour at -20F (low-20sC).



--
http://www.pbase.com/staci
 
Auke Nauta said:
Jim Gregerson said:
Sorry I got that from a Kodak Sensor tech report.

Dynamic range is sometimes characterized
by the number of gray levels in a
camera system which is a measure of
how much contrast an image can display.
An 8-bit digital system can produce
256 gray levels, whereas a 10-bit
system can provide 1024 gray levels.
Click to expand...
Hi again, Jim!

I'm sorry but this is simply not true.
The number of gray levels has nothing to do with the dynamic
range of the imaging sensor.

I'll try to clarify this with an example:

Suppose our imaginary sensor has a dynamic range of '3 log(Exposure)'.
What this means is that the maximum difference in light intensity
the sensor is capable of recording is a factor of 1000 (10^3). Or,
if you want, we can expres this range in f-stops, which would
amount to nearly 10 (2^10=1024).

Next, this analogue signal must be converted to a digital one by
the A/D converter. Suppose we have an 8-bit A/D converter. Let's
futher suppose we have an analogue signal (representing the full
dynamic range of the sensor) ranging from 0 to 1023 mV.

The 8 bit conversion means we can use 2^8=256 steps to describe
this voltage range.

This means each digital step (20 to 21, or 243 to 244) represents
approximately 4 mV. The total voltage range is thus digitised with
an accuracy of 4 mV.

Now, let's assume we replace the A/D converter with a -more
accurate- 12 bit version. This 12-bit conversion means we can use
2^12=4096 steps to describe the same voltage range. So now, each
digital step represents not 4 but 0.25 mV.

The voltage range is now digitised more accurately (2^4=16 times),
yet the voltage range itself did not change at all!

Sensor dynamic range would only increase by re-design, increasing
the log E range.

I hope this helps...

Greetings,
Auke

P.S. Don't believe everything that's written down.....
Click to expand...
==============================================
AUKE: I hope this helps:

This is what Minolta says about it - Refering to the A1:

Another key to clearer colors is Minolta CxProcess II. By balancing several factors, this exclusive algorithm yields vivid colors that faithfully reflect your impression of the scene. CxProcess II operates on highly refined 14-bit color data, which provides impeccable detail in shadow and highlight areas, plus remarkably subtle gradations

CxProcess II is an exclusive image processing technology that produces exceptionally clear images. Its key characteristics include:

Color processing with extra-fine control over tone curves to ensure greater shadow and highlight area detail.
Increased saturation for color reproduction that is lucid, not dull.
Smooth edge processing to makes high-resolution images look even sharper.

Optimized contrast for more distinct detail in the light and dark areas of your images.

Compared to the original CxProcess (in blue), the new CxProcess II (in yellow) strikes a stronger balance among several factors by which image quality is judged. Images appear more life-like than ever as a result of this balance.

http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
 
staci said:
Jim Gregerson said:
Garnet,
Don't be affraid to use your D7i in the winter. Just don't keep it
out in cold for more than 1/2 hr or so depending on temp at a time
and do't let it get wet.
Click to expand...
Do you have any specific reasons for using it so sparingly in the
cold?

I am looking to upgrade my Sony 505v this fall, and have had no
problems using it for several hours at -10F or even on the tripod
for over an hour at -20F (low-20sC).



--
http://www.pbase.com/staci
Click to expand...
Staci,
Not really other than the colder it gets the more the batteries don't like it.

That's just my opinion - I am not an expert nor do I stay out in the cold for long periods to test them.

--
http://www.showtelinc.com/aphoto2.htm
Jim Gregerson
 
Jim Gregerson said:
Not really other than the colder it gets the more the batteries
don't like it.
That's just my opinion - I am not an expert nor do I stay out in
the cold for long periods to test them.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I figured they would work about the same, but since I don't know anything about Minoltas, I wanted to check to make sure you weren't going to say the lcd becomes unusable or the zoom mechanism is unoperable or something along those lines.

Batteries crapping out I'm used too.

--
http://www.pbase.com/staci
 
Jim Gregerson said:
Auke Nauta said:
...
Click to expand...
...
Click to expand...
You are both wrong and right regarding dynamic range.

For a pure linear A/D conversion, the maximum possible
dynamic range is determined by the number of bits. In
this case 14 bits gives 4 times the possible dynamic range
of 12 bits.

But ... 8 bit images are not linear coded ... you use
some gamma to compress the range.

Therefore, a gamma 1.8 8 bit picture, has actually a
greater theoretical dynamic range than a 12 bit
linear.

Roland
 
Maybe I'm totally wrong here, but isn't the..# of bits only part of the picture.. for example, let's pretend a scene has, i don't know, 10 stops of info from light to dark (i'm just making that # up). And let's say the dynamic range of the ccd can only show 2 stops worth of difference (the auto exposure would choose the best 2 stops to capture and everything above would be pure white and everything below would be pure black... and say it can then show 4000 grey levels in those 2 stops... ...let's say vs a 8 bit A/D that can only show 256 levels, but can capture a 8 stop range.. this probably makes not sense but does anyone get what i'm getting at?
Roland Karlsson said:
Jim Gregerson said:
Auke Nauta said:
...
Click to expand...
...
Click to expand...
You are both wrong and right regarding dynamic range.

For a pure linear A/D conversion, the maximum possible
dynamic range is determined by the number of bits. In
this case 14 bits gives 4 times the possible dynamic range
of 12 bits.

But ... 8 bit images are not linear coded ... you use
some gamma to compress the range.

Therefore, a gamma 1.8 8 bit picture, has actually a
greater theoretical dynamic range than a 12 bit
linear.

Roland
Click to expand...
 
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