Exposure

most cameras these days feature sophisticated multi point reading sensors for establishing the light falling at various positions on the sensor, these readings are then subjected to a complicated algorithm to establish the correct exposure. So often, we then have to apply exposure correction to get things right. Does this mean multi point exposure readings are a waste of time and, if we need to apply an input, we would be better off taking a basic reading and, using our past experience, decide on the correct exposure for the particular scene?
I think you're pretty much spot on.


For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.


Nevermind though.. cameras with more and more dynamic range are mostly being used by those who don't know how to meter, or don't care to, and would just rely on the cameras push capability to save their shots.


Same goes for autofocus and.. eventually composition.

Set and forget your camera, and Sony's Hypercomp (TM) feature will take the best shot for you, and automatically assign copyright to the coders who made the algorithm.
 
As gollywop notes, ETTR works swimmingly.

Shadow-lifting is a breeze with a Nikon/Sony sensor.

No need for geeky meter readings in select spots.
 
most cameras these days feature sophisticated multi point reading sensors for establishing the light falling at various positions on the sensor, these readings are then subjected to a complicated algorithm to establish the correct exposure. So often, we then have to apply exposure correction to get things right. Does this mean multi point exposure readings are a waste of time and, if we need to apply an input, we would be better off taking a basic reading and, using our past experience, decide on the correct exposure for the particular scene?
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
Nevermind though.. cameras with more and more dynamic range are mostly being used by those who don't know how to meter, or don't care to, and would just rely on the cameras push capability to save their shots.
That is a weird statement. For every other sensible photographer cameras with more and more DR, are more and more suitable to deal with high DR scenes without burning highlights or darken shadows. This has absolutely nothing to do with knowing how to meter because if you shoot a scene that exceeds the camera's DR, no metering knoledge will help you.
Same goes for autofocus and.. eventually composition.
So for you, autofocus is only useful for people who do not know how to focus manually? I've been using manual focus for many years and thanks god I don't have to do it anymore except for some particular cases.

You know, I've passed the age to tell everyone, hey look at me, I'm a great photographer, I use only manual focus...

And btw, what about composition?
Set and forget your camera, and Sony's Hypercomp (TM) feature will take the best shot for you, and automatically assign copyright to the coders who made the algorithm.
There is much more in photography than just getting the exposure 'right' and there is nothing wrong to do it in auto mode. Just bear in mind that even if you can perfectly master manual exposure, that just makes you a better technician. To become a better photographer, you need much more than that.

My wife shoots many of her photos in P mode. That didn't disturbed her fron being awarded as a fellow of the Royal Photography Society, (FRPS) which is the highest distinction given in the UK for outstanding photography excellence.

Also some of her photos were chosen by the British Media Achives as part of the U.K. Art collection. And she shoots in P mode.

So maybe it is time to get off your high horse and to understand that people who think and work differently than you, are not necessarily ignorants.

Cheers

Moti

--
http://www.musicalpix.com
 
Last edited:
Yeah but aren't there heaps of potential issues with doing it this way?
As gollywop notes, ETTR works swimmingly.
Doesn't ETTR with most DSLR cameras require you to take the photo first to view the histogram? So it's not a single shot affair, which brings it half way (time and effort wise) towards just metering properly or bracketing. Both of which will give you (in most situations) a better result because -----> Even if you have live view and have a live histogram, or check the histogram after a shot, it's still a histogram based on the JPG rendering of the image, not the raw. So it's not really an accurate representation of what a RAW shooter will be working with.
Shadow-lifting is a breeze with a Nikon/Sony sensor.
It's a breeze with any camera until you underexpose too much. Something you need to meter for first to be certain won't occur. Have you not encountered a scene that has more range than your camera can handle?.. even with it's push capability?
No need for geeky meter readings in select spots.
For you.. yet..
 
Yeah but aren't there heaps of potential issues with doing it this way?
As gollywop notes, ETTR works swimmingly.
Doesn't ETTR with most DSLR cameras require you to take the photo first to view the histogram?
Yes, it is true that ETTR is easier and surer with mirrorless, LV exposure indicators. However, even with a DSLR, one can hit ETTR the first time in a great majority of cases using the spot-metering method, in which you spot-meter and lock exposure on the brightest part of the scene, add 2-1/2 to 3 EC (depending on how well the spot-meter area fits the brightest part), compose, and shoot. This method is described in detail in ETTR Exposed.
So it's not a single shot affair, which brings it half way (time and effort wise) towards just metering properly or bracketing.
I used this method very successfully with my D300 and rarely had to retake the shot. It was very fast and effective. But there is no doubt that life in this regard is far better with my E-M5II.
Both of which will give you (in most situations) a better result because -----> Even if you have live view and have a live histogram, or check the histogram after a shot, it's still a histogram based on the JPG rendering of the image, not the raw.
This is true . . .
So it's not really an accurate representation of what a RAW shooter will be working with.
but, as I explain above, this need not be true.
Shadow-lifting is a breeze with a Nikon/Sony sensor.
It's a breeze with any camera until you underexpose too much. Something you need to meter for first to be certain won't occur.
No need to meter for it first. You just take the shot ETTR and it either works or it doesn't.
Have you not encountered a scene that has more range than your camera can handle?.. even with it's push capability?
This is a silly point since such a scene, by your very definition of its having more range than your camera can handle, cannot be taken properly by any means or exposure method, at least as a single shot. It certainly could be taken using HDR methods.

--
gollywop
http://g4.img-dpreview.com/D8A95C7DB3724EC094214B212FB1F2AF.jpg
 
Last edited:
most cameras these days feature sophisticated multi point reading sensors for establishing the light falling at various positions on the sensor, these readings are then subjected to a complicated algorithm to establish the correct exposure. So often, we then have to apply exposure correction to get things right. Does this mean multi point exposure readings are a waste of time and, if we need to apply an input, we would be better off taking a basic reading and, using our past experience, decide on the correct exposure for the particular scene?
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
It's exactly what I was taught, and what I've read in every book on the subject. Slide film having ~5-stops range requires the same consideration as a Nikon D810 having ~14 stops range. ie. There is a limit to the capture range and it should be observed.
Nevermind though.. cameras with more and more dynamic range are mostly being used by those who don't know how to meter, or don't care to, and would just rely on the cameras push capability to save their shots.
That is a weird statement. For every other sensible photographer cameras with more and more DR, are more and more suitable to deal with high DR scenes without burning highlights or darken shadows. This has absolutely nothing to do with knowing how to meter because if you shoot a scene that exceeds the camera's DR, no metering knoledge will help you.
Yes, It is a very weird statement which is in response to very weird admissions from photographers like Lord Brain above who says 'No need for geeky meter readings in select spots' when you, I and every photographer I've studied with was taught that meter readings are important in particular for select spots that might be over or under exposed. Also statements from him saying that 'intuition' is a suitable way to ensure subject brightness range.
Same goes for autofocus and.. eventually composition.
So for you, autofocus is only useful for people who do not know how to focus manually? I've been using manual focus for many years and thanks god I don't have to do it anymore except for some particular cases.

You know, I've passed the age to tell everyone, hey look at me, I'm a great photographer, I use only manual focus...

And btw, what about composition?
I think you understood me wrong. I was sarcastically mocking those who don't see the importance in certain things.

On top of the Lord Brain comments (which I believe is a method a lot of new photographers rely on) there was a comment from Rishi some time ago where he welcomed more advanced auto focus in cameras because he didn't want to think about focus while taking photos.
I'm of the strong mindset that selective/deep focus is a primary element of composition that can be used effectively to draw the eye through the frame and/or in the telling of a story.

My statement had nothing to do with auto vs manual focus, nor auto focus in general. But rather the hyper advanced and complicated autofocus options available in consumer level cameras that so many people seem to nit pick as if they want their camera to do everything for them. Not saying everyone is like this, but there is a trend.

I hope the background/context helps to explain why I made that statement.
Set and forget your camera, and Sony's Hypercomp (TM) feature will take the best shot for you, and automatically assign copyright to the coders who made the algorithm.
There is much more in photography than just getting the exposure 'right' and there is nothing wrong to do it in auto mode. Just bear in mind that even if you can perfectly master manual exposure, that just makes you a better technician. To become a better photographer, you need much more than that.

My wife shoots many of her photos in P mode. That didn't disturbed her fron being awarded as a fellow of the Royal Photography Society, (FRPS) which is the highest distinction given in the UK for outstanding photography excellence.

Also some of her photos were chosen by the British Media Achives as part of the U.K. Art collection. And she shoots in P mode.

So maybe it is time to get off your high horse and to understand that people who think and work differently than you, are not necessarily ignorants.
Lol, I'm not sure if you thought I was being serious or not. I was being sarcastic. I agree with what you say and people can do things differently if they wish. I use P mode and auto mode and all that when I know they are appropriate. But those modes and methods don't absolve the importance of knowing what is going on behind the scenes, because the camera isn't always going to get it right.

My high horse is pretty much just as high as the basic fundamentals of photography.


If someone doesn't 'WISH' to know these things, that's fine. One can always work around their own limitations.
But when they say there is 'NO NEED' to know these things, then it's a statement that encourages ignorance to everyone that is reading it.

My opinion. From whatever high horse, rocking horse or straight jacket position you see me in.
Cheers

Moti
 
Thanks for the link to "ETTR Exposed." I am going to read it. I stand to learn a thing or two.
 
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
That is not always necessarily true.

With ETTR, if you have a (no/lo contrast) "gray" card, you could increase EC until the "gray" card is WHITE, (just at saturation), and then change the BRIGHTNESS in PP back to "gray".

That is only a theoretical, but would give you the lowest noise.
 
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
That is not always necessarily true.

With ETTR, if you have a (no/lo contrast) "gray" card, you could increase EC until the "gray" card is WHITE, (just at saturation), and then change the BRIGHTNESS in PP back to "gray".

That is only a theoretical, but would give you the lowest noise.
Yes. When shooting raw, you make the photo look exactly the way you want it to look during raw processing, not during the exposure. As such, you want to present to your raw processor with the raw data that contain the best possible information. When possible, such data come from ETTR, but otherwise from a maximal exposure subject to your shooting constraints (DoF, motion/camera-shake blur, shadow needs, unwanted clipping avoidance).

In any event, the exposure resulting in the best raw information corresponds to nothing 'exactly the way you want it to look' until it undergoes the desired raw processing.

I would suspect Moti's statement is made more in the context of obtaining the desired results from an OOC JPEG, where it could indeed have more relevance.

--
gollywop

http://g4.img-dpreview.com/D8A95C7DB3724EC094214B212FB1F2AF.jpg
 
Last edited:
After many years of cerebral computation and dial fiddling, I lately prefer shooting raw with Multi metering, and just click up or down on the EV dial if needed. It seems much less complicated. My camera's exposure and processing algorithms seem to hold detail everywhere, while suggesting shutter speed and aperture appropriate to detected subjects. If/when I want to fiddle for better expression, the dials and buttons are there. Life's good!

--
The older I get, the better I was.
 
Last edited:
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
That is not always necessarily true.

With ETTR, if you have a (no/lo contrast) "gray" card, you could increase EC until the "gray" card is WHITE, (just at saturation), and then change the BRIGHTNESS in PP back to "gray".

That is only a theoretical, but would give you the lowest noise.
Yes. When shooting raw, you make the photo look exactly the way you want it to look during raw processing, not during the exposure.
Exactly right! . And the presets one creates could produce that, or very close from the get-go. The 'defaults' of most raw processors, out of the box are not expecting to be provided an optimal exposure for raw! So it looks 'too light, over exposed' but of course it's not.

The original ETTR article on Luminous Landscape used a term called 'normalizing' which is just that; setting the raw converter so it's initial rendering of ETTR or better, optimal exposure from raw doesn't look 'too light and over exposed' because again, it's not.

Optimal exposure for raw, or what some call ETTR isn't over exposed. It doesn't look too light if the rendering settings in any raw processor are set for that kind of proper exposure of the data.
 
Yeah but aren't there heaps of potential issues with doing it this way?
As gollywop notes, ETTR works swimmingly.
Doesn't ETTR with most DSLR cameras require you to take the photo first to view the histogram?
No. The camera histogram is a big fat lie in terms of the raw data (unless it's providing you a histogram of the raw which is possible in some cases).

This is just like shooting film in the old days. You test the exposure and development and set both for ideal results. Bracket the raws. Examine the actual raw histogram using something like Rawdigger. Compensate as necessary.
So it's not a single shot affair, which brings it half way (time and effort wise) towards just metering properly or bracketing.
IF you can bracket, do so; no harm. But that's not always possible. If you're shooting portraits, sports or fast moving action etc. Get it right the first time after understanding the raw data and exposure unique to your capture system. Just like film.
Even if you have live view and have a live histogram, or check the histogram after a shot, it's still a histogram based on the JPG rendering of the image, not the raw. So it's not really an accurate representation of what a RAW shooter will be working with.
IF the Histogram is based on the JPEG, it's a big fat lie, yes!

Histograms lie all the time (or people read into them attributes that have nothing to do with the image).

--
Andrew Rodney
Author: Color Management for Photographers
The Digital Dog
http://www.digitaldog.net
 
Last edited:
in the real world it probably does not matter how many points are sampled as after more than four or five give or take the change in over all exposure is becoming imperceptible. It is still an averaging reading and in the end should be very little different than the old fashioned averaging meter which favored the center or some such.

for any of a number of neophyte shooters who ask my advice and let me say up front I am not a teacher of photography, I recommend taking your digital camera off auto and set it to full manual if possible, and turn off or ignore any meter settings besides ISO and go shoot using the sunny sixteen rule or some other not metering paradigm for eyeballing exposure. Once you have realized that for the vast majority of situations you really do not even need a meter you will also know when your meter is not giving you the exposure that is needed for the scene in front of you.

In this modern day and age we depend more and more on devices like built in metering and never understand that the meter is only an aid.

also understanding what the meter is actually measuring is good to know and will help you know when your meter is not telling you the exposure that is best for the image.

most if not all meters are set to measure the light falling on it as though it were what is commonly referred to as eighteen percent gray. Simply this means if you shot a pure white wall using the meter in your camera the wall will be gray. if you shoot a black wall with your camera using the meter is will be the same gray.

which in the real world means you must be aware of what in your image the meter is measuring.

--
John aka bosjohn21
I still carry my Kodak grey card with me. The modern equivalent is the expo filter which, despite being intended for colour temperature measurements, can be used to take incident light measurements. A good starting point, l always think.
 
Last edited:
Most "mirrorless" cameras have live histograms before exposure.

Most also have "zebras" so you literally can see every pixel and can adjust EC where highlights are at saturation level you want. (ETTR)

All before the exposure.

This data is directly off the image sensor so can be more accurate than a separate sensor you have to "trust" to be accurate.
The histogram and "blinkies" displayed by mirrorless cameras are not derived directly off the image sensor. They are derived from the output of the camera's JPEG processing software and as such do not do a good job of accurately displaying the sensor exposure.
And why would it not do an excellent job if your output is going to be JPEG anyway ???
Because my output is typically a print from an RGB photo that is not and never was a JPEG. When my output is a JPEG it's a JPEG that I create from the raw file so my goal is always the best raw file (I'm better at making a JPEG than the camera). The simple point remains; the histogram and zebras displayed by the camera are not derived directly off the sensor.

As such my experience with nearly all cameras is that I get the best raw file by exposing more than the camera histogram would indicate. In other words when the camera software clips the highlights in the camera JPEG, and that's indicated by the histogram, that does not mean the highlights are likewise clipped in the raw file -- two different exposures.

An option exists to set the camera WB to unity in order to improve the accuracy of the camera histogram, but this is pretty much a hack. The fact that photographers nonetheless keep doing it (UniWB) is supporting evidence that the simple point above in bold is correct.
IF you are working in RAW, you could set your zebra to 110%+ or higher and thus allow your JPEG's to blow with the confidence you can still recover in RAW.

It still provides a more-accurate way than relying on the cameras "guesses" from separate sensors that can't identify specific (small) areas.
I think it's more a 6 in one 1/2 dozen in the other situation. You have two alternatives that in both cases give you a measuring method that is a simulation or "soft proof" of the real thing and both have some degree of fudge factor to deal with. The camera metering system isn't the sensor and has to be tested and interpreted in order to serve well -- we can learn to do that. Likewise the histogram and zebras are also not derived directly from the sensor and have to be tested and interpreted in order to serve well -- we can learn to do that.
The direct visual feedback when making exposure/WB/focus is a much faster and more accurate method that virtually eliminates the need for bracketing, (albeit sometimes I do that also).
It is not direct visual feedback and that's the problem. It's software interpreted visual feedback and it is not showing you what the sensor will record. It's showing how the camera software will take the sensor recording and process it. That difference can be pretty substantial. There are things you can do with the camera settings to minimize that difference, but unless you're going UniWB the fudge factor remains.
The direct visual feedback also makes (for beginners) LEARNING exposure/WB much easier/faster.
With

After exposure, most mirrorless have "blinkies" which again indicate saturated pixels.
 
in the real world it probably does not matter how many points are sampled as after more than four or five give or take the change in over all exposure is becoming imperceptible. It is still an averaging reading and in the end should be very little different than the old fashioned averaging meter which favored the center or some such.

for any of a number of neophyte shooters who ask my advice and let me say up front I am not a teacher of photography, I recommend taking your digital camera off auto and set it to full manual if possible, and turn off or ignore any meter settings besides ISO and go shoot using the sunny sixteen rule or some other not metering paradigm for eyeballing exposure. Once you have realized that for the vast majority of situations you really do not even need a meter you will also know when your meter is not giving you the exposure that is needed for the scene in front of you.

In this modern day and age we depend more and more on devices like built in metering and never understand that the meter is only an aid.

also understanding what the meter is actually measuring is good to know and will help you know when your meter is not telling you the exposure that is best for the image.

most if not all meters are set to measure the light falling on it as though it were what is commonly referred to as eighteen percent gray. Simply this means if you shot a pure white wall using the meter in your camera the wall will be gray. if you shoot a black wall with your camera using the meter is will be the same gray.

which in the real world means you must be aware of what in your image the meter is measuring.
 
Using transparency material installed in me the mindset of carefully considering what exposure ( shutter speed/aperture the balance between dof requirements and subject movements ) to select and composing the image to include what I wanted and to ensure what I did not want was excluded, I am old but I still work this way before making my raw exposure.
 
in the real world it probably does not matter how many points are sampled as after more than four or five give or take the change in over all exposure is becoming imperceptible. It is still an averaging reading and in the end should be very little different than the old fashioned averaging meter which favored the center or some such.

for any of a number of neophyte shooters who ask my advice and let me say up front I am not a teacher of photography, I recommend taking your digital camera off auto and set it to full manual if possible, and turn off or ignore any meter settings besides ISO and go shoot using the sunny sixteen rule or some other not metering paradigm for eyeballing exposure. Once you have realized that for the vast majority of situations you really do not even need a meter you will also know when your meter is not giving you the exposure that is needed for the scene in front of you.

In this modern day and age we depend more and more on devices like built in metering and never understand that the meter is only an aid.

also understanding what the meter is actually measuring is good to know and will help you know when your meter is not telling you the exposure that is best for the image.

most if not all meters are set to measure the light falling on it as though it were what is commonly referred to as eighteen percent gray. Simply this means if you shot a pure white wall using the meter in your camera the wall will be gray. if you shoot a black wall with your camera using the meter is will be the same gray.

which in the real world means you must be aware of what in your image the meter is measuring.

--
John aka bosjohn21
I still carry my Kodak grey card with me. The modern equivalent is the expo filter which, despite being intended for colour temperature measurements, can be used to take incident light measurements. A good starting point, l always think.
First, a gray card isn't a product at all useful for color temp measurements. A spectroradiometer is!

Next, if you're working with raw data, a spectrally neutral non specular white is much better. That's due to the data encoding of raw data. You can use a gray card but if you end up with color shifts, it is because it wasn't intended for raw capture where half of all the data takes up the first stop of highlights.

A great product for taking incident readings you always have is your hand! Meter off that, open one stop. But again, this isn't going to ensure ideal exposure for raw (ETTR). The meter's were not created for that task unfortunately.

--
Andrew Rodney
Author: Color Management for Photographers
The Digital Dog
http://www.digitaldog.net
You misread my post. The expo filter, not the grey card, is used to set the camera white balance, which it does very well. The Kodak grey card is, on the reverse side, an 18% white card but I have never heard it called a Kodak white card, and again does a good job of establishing a middle point for exposure calculation, similar in reflective quality to your hand example. The expo filter performs a similar function to the old Weston invercone and allows one to measure the lightbfalling on the subject rather than the reflective method normal meter resdings use.
 
Last edited:
If you're shooting raw, try ETTR and forget the meter.

If you're shooting JPEG, it can't help you as much, but it can a little under certain cicumstances.

See ETTR Exposed.

--
gollywop

http://g4.img-dpreview.com/D8A95C7DB3724EC094214B212FB1F2AF.jpg
So we are back to "expose for the shadows and leave the highlights to look after themselves" for negative work and "expose for the highlights and leave the shadows to look after themselves" in reversal work.
I'm not sure about "back to," but ETTR tends, in all but excessively large DR scenes, to work better than exposing for the middle and letting both the highlights and shadows look after themselves.
I think it works particularly well for raw in scenes with a very high range. The shadows come out very dark in the JPG, but lift nicely from the raw file.

Low contrast scenes give plenty of leeway on exposure, with ETTR just giving a bit less noise, but high contrast scenes are critical.
After all, you've got to expose for something – and let everything else "look after themselves." With today's cameras, within reason (3 or 4 EV, depending), shadow pushing during raw processing can be extremely effective. But clipped significant highlights are lost forever. So you decide what you want to expose for.
You would have thought some enterprising exposure meter firm would have produced a meter which displays a histogram and is able to measure various angles of view.
Yes, you would think. Unfortunately, the required histogram is that of the raw data, and this highly desirable and much requested feature doesn't appear to be on the radar of any of the principal manufacturers.
An ETTR auto-exposure algorithm would be nice to have. But all these things depend on some PhD student in a university writing a paper with a good algorithm, which then might get licensed by the people who sell processing chips to camera companies.
 
in the real world it probably does not matter how many points are sampled as after more than four or five give or take the change in over all exposure is becoming imperceptible. It is still an averaging reading and in the end should be very little different than the old fashioned averaging meter which favored the center or some such.

for any of a number of neophyte shooters who ask my advice and let me say up front I am not a teacher of photography, I recommend taking your digital camera off auto and set it to full manual if possible, and turn off or ignore any meter settings besides ISO and go shoot using the sunny sixteen rule or some other not metering paradigm for eyeballing exposure. Once you have realized that for the vast majority of situations you really do not even need a meter you will also know when your meter is not giving you the exposure that is needed for the scene in front of you.

In this modern day and age we depend more and more on devices like built in metering and never understand that the meter is only an aid.

also understanding what the meter is actually measuring is good to know and will help you know when your meter is not telling you the exposure that is best for the image.

most if not all meters are set to measure the light falling on it as though it were what is commonly referred to as eighteen percent gray. Simply this means if you shot a pure white wall using the meter in your camera the wall will be gray. if you shoot a black wall with your camera using the meter is will be the same gray.

which in the real world means you must be aware of what in your image the meter is measuring.
 
I think you're pretty much spot on.

For all the algorithms and chips and blah blah blah inside a camera these days, it still doesn't compensate for an ideal exposure. You still have to tell it via preset that you're in the snow, or that you're shooting fireworks etc. For those who are not familiar with this concept of 'ideal' or 'correct' exposure, it's when the image captured falls within the brightness range of the cameras sensor or the film emulsion.
This is what they teach students in basic school. If you are a photographer, than you should know that correct exposure is the amount of exposure necessary to makes the photo look exactly the way you want it to look.
That is not always necessarily true.

With ETTR, if you have a (no/lo contrast) "gray" card, you could increase EC until the "gray" card is WHITE, (just at saturation), and then change the BRIGHTNESS in PP back to "gray".

That is only a theoretical, but would give you the lowest noise.
It would, but noise is not such a problem with recent sensors as it was a few years ago.

Handling very contrasty scenes is still a problem.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top