How to focus a Tamron 15-30 for edge to edge sharpness?

boviscopophobic

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Hello all, I'm currently evaluating two copies of a Tamron 15-30mm, one purchased and another rented for comparison. For my purposes (storm photography), I'm mostly interested in infinity performance at 15mm. Multiple online reviews stated that this lens has a fairly flat field and is sharp edge to edge, but this is not what I'm experiencing.

To test, I mounted the camera on a tripod, VC off, remote release, EFCS, etc. I used Live View autofocus to acquire focus on a distant white tower in the center of the image. Sorry about the haze, but that's what I had to work with. To mitigate any possible focus shifting, I refocused every time I changed aperture.

I ran through a series of apertures from f/2.8 through f/11. The results were consistent in all cases: good sharpness and a large depth of field in the center, but as you move left or right from the center you get a smeary mess, especially past the APS-C image circle. Stopping down improves the smeary edges somewhat, but never brings them into sharp focus. What does come into the DOF is the row of foreground trees along the bottom edge. It's as if there's a "runway" of sharp focus extending from the center bottom edge, up past the focus point and through to the mountains behind.

Given that both copies of the lens behave in the same way, I imagine this behavior is not a defect. How, then, are people getting images that are sharp edge to edge? Do you have to manual focus for the edges and then let the DOF handle the center? This is a rather more deliberate procedure than would be practical for my needs.

P.S. I have another aperture series (not included here) of a row of trees at about 50 yards distance, which is not affected by haze but shows similar field curvature. So the haze isn't the cause of the smeary edges here.

f/2.8
f/2.8

f/11
f/11
 
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Hello all, I'm currently evaluating two copies of a Tamron 15-30mm, one purchased and another rented for comparison. For my purposes (storm photography), I'm mostly interested in infinity performance at 15mm. Multiple online reviews stated that this lens has a fairly flat field and is sharp edge to edge, but this is not what I'm experiencing.

To test, I mounted the camera on a tripod, VC off, remote release, EFCS, etc. I used Live View autofocus to acquire focus on a distant white tower in the center of the image. Sorry about the haze, but that's what I had to work with. To mitigate any possible focus shifting, I refocused every time I changed aperture.

I ran through a series of apertures from f/2.8 through f/11. The results were consistent in all cases: good sharpness and a large depth of field in the center, but as you move left or right from the center you get a smeary mess, especially past the APS-C image circle. Stopping down improves the smeary edges somewhat, but never brings them into sharp focus. What does come into the DOF is the row of foreground trees along the bottom edge. It's as if there's a "runway" of sharp focus extending from the center bottom edge, up past the focus point and through to the mountains behind.

Given that both copies of the lens behave in the same way, I imagine this behavior is not a defect. How, then, are people getting images that are sharp edge to edge? Do you have to manual focus for the edges and then let the DOF handle the center? This is a rather more deliberate procedure than would be practical for my needs.

P.S. I have another aperture series (not included here) of a row of trees at about 50 yards distance, which is not affected by haze but shows similar field curvature. So the haze isn't the cause of the smeary edges here.

f/2.8
f/2.8

f/11
f/11
I would compare it to a similar lens that is known good. Have you done similar shots with say a 15mm fixed lens and had different results? Did you focus on the same objects in with both lenses at the same FL? Are the smeary corners in focus on the other lens or are they merely blurry but not smeary?

It could be that the corners are Out Of Focus, especially the lower corners (which usually contains objects closer to the camera)? It could be bad bokeh in nearer OOF objects. Its hard to tell if you corners are in focus to begin with unless you have it hooked up to a tablet and can pixel peep on the corners.

In my view, the best test of a WA lens would be standing on top of a building and focusing on a window on a taller building next to you. Even then, the distance between the sensor and the windows on the edge of the photo is still much more than the distance to the center of focus.

My guess is that the corners are out of focus and the bokeh present is not as nice as other lenses have. Yes, I have this same experience, but I have written it off to bad bokeh, but I could be wrong.

--
 
I guess you should focus by hand and a little closer, this usually gets corners into focus (for ultra-wides), trading some center sharpness for acceptable corners.

That's what I do with Samyang 12mm fisheye and was doing with Nikkor 14-24/2.8
 
Looks like the corners are out of focus. I think conventional wisdom is to focus 1/3 of the way into the scene. There is a definite learning curve to UWA lenses as I and many others have learned. Maybe check out some tutorials on how to best use them? Or shoot the ole brick wall.
 
Looks like the corners are out of focus. I think conventional wisdom is to focus 1/3 of the way into the scene. There is a definite learning curve to UWA lenses as I and many others have learned. Maybe check out some tutorials on how to best use them? Or shoot the ole brick wall.
 
Never owned a wide angle that didn't start to degrade at the corners. If I try to keep it level it will improve but most of my scenics tend to be tilted down or up which will show distortion of the lens more. My Tamron is far from perfect but still does well for its self.

 
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Looks like the corners are out of focus. I think conventional wisdom is to focus 1/3 of the way into the scene. There is a definite learning curve to UWA lenses as I and many others have learned. Maybe check out some tutorials on how to best use them? Or shoot the ole brick wall.
 
At 15mm, depth of field in the middle is at least double that at the edges. Thus, even with a flat field, you can get the center nice and sharp, and have the edges fuzzy. To combat that, I focus near the edge.

I own the 15-30, and have photographed the stars at f/2.8 and 15mm. Stars were points to the corners. But that was true only if I focused in the outer regions.

IMO, the 15-30 is one of the flattest 15mm lenses I have used, at least my copy is. But you can't get around Ultrawide depth of field issues! :)
 
At 15mm, depth of field in the middle is at least double that at the edges. Thus, even with a flat field, you can get the center nice and sharp, and have the edges fuzzy. To combat that, I focus near the edge.

I own the 15-30, and have photographed the stars at f/2.8 and 15mm. Stars were points to the corners. But that was true only if I focused in the outer regions.

IMO, the 15-30 is one of the flattest 15mm lenses I have used, at least my copy is. But you can't get around Ultrawide depth of field issues! :)
You're absolutely right on all counts, which is why I stack...and suggested the OP try it also.
 
At 15mm, depth of field in the middle is at least double that at the edges. Thus, even with a flat field, you can get the center nice and sharp, and have the edges fuzzy. To combat that, I focus near the edge.

I own the 15-30, and have photographed the stars at f/2.8 and 15mm. Stars were points to the corners. But that was true only if I focused in the outer regions.

IMO, the 15-30 is one of the flattest 15mm lenses I have used, at least my copy is. But you can't get around Ultrawide depth of field issues! :)
+1
 
I just ordered the Tamron 15-30mm lens and I have been reading up on it a fair bit online as I wait for it to arrive. From what I gather, this lens is really not optimized for 15mm (it's actually 15.8mm) but rather for ~24mm. If your primary concern is having the sharpest possible approx. 15mm lens, I would suggest instead purchasing a 'Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 UMC' prime lens.

Remember that while much is in focus with a UWA lens, not everything will be. If you are focusing at infinity, expect the ground beneath your feat to be out of focus.
 
Remember that while much is in focus with a UWA lens, not everything will be. If you are focusing at infinity, expect the ground beneath your feat to be out of focus.
And on top of that, the out-of-focus areas are a little smeary on this lens, so the "ugly" making you think you have a bad lens, is merely OOF, maybe "nissin bokeh".
 
I just ordered the Tamron 15-30mm lens and I have been reading up on it a fair bit online as I wait for it to arrive. From what I gather, this lens is really not optimized for 15mm (it's actually 15.8mm) but rather for ~24mm. If your primary concern is having the sharpest possible approx. 15mm lens, I would suggest instead purchasing a 'Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 UMC' prime lens.

Remember that while much is in focus with a UWA lens, not everything will be. If you are focusing at infinity, expect the ground beneath your feat to be out of focus.
I would disagree with this. Although I'm sure you have some basic data/information to back up that statement. I also don't believe my copy is any better than all the others.

My Tamron 15-30mm is amazing at 15mm. Its amazing wide open. If it wasn't then it would not have found a place in my camera bag. I've owned 2 of the Nikon 14-24mm lenses. The Tamron is an amazing lens.

:)
 
I wouldn't bother with brick-wall tests, bricks are too big and are less demanding a subject compared with distant tree line and foliage. What can look like an acceptable sharpness from a wall can look unimpressive on distant views.

The haze in these shots is no helping at all, so I would run tests on clear day. Also field curvature could be coming into play. I would run a test by focusing at 1/3rd in from the edge of the frame so as take into account any curvature especially as the depth of field at 15mm could hide the calibration of the lens.

With each LV focus take images of the horizon at the top, middle and bottom of the frame without touching/change the focus.

Good luck.

--
Dave's clichés
 
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Hello there!

Well, I know that your discussion about the Tamron 15-30 happened more than a year ago...but I just bought mine 2 months ago and I'm having the same issue! None of the people that replied to your discussion actually understood what was going on. I've been shooting for years, and I replaced my Nikon 18-35(new version) with the Tamron. Most of the landscapes I've taken had to be focused at infinity, carefully reviewing the image on the LCD (I own a Nikon D800E)...did you ever figure it out? Was it a problem with the lens?

I look forward for your reply and thanks for your time,

Silvio
 
I just ordered the Tamron 15-30mm lens and I have been reading up on it a fair bit online as I wait for it to arrive. From what I gather, this lens is really not optimized for 15mm (it's actually 15.8mm) but rather for ~24mm. If your primary concern is having the sharpest possible approx. 15mm lens, I would suggest instead purchasing a 'Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 UMC' prime lens.

Remember that while much is in focus with a UWA lens, not everything will be. If you are focusing at infinity, expect the ground beneath your feat to be out of focus.
I'm not sure where you're getting your information.


I have the Rokinon 14mm. Its a good lens, but the only value it offers over the Tamron 15-30mm is that it is lighter.

The Tamron is sharper at 15mm, has less coma, less CA, less vignetting, less distortion. The Rokinon doesn't compare in any measurable way to the Tamron.

My Nikon 14-24 was a LEGENDARY lens and one of the reasons I am still a Nikon shooter to this day. I've sold my Nikon 14-24 and kept the Tamron after comparing the two.

The Tamron 15-30mm is my favorite wide angle zoom lens. I've used them all (Including the Canon 11-24mm).

Yes. The Tamron 15-30mm is truly that good.
 
Hi Silvio,

My eventual conclusion was that some degree of field curvature is just a fact of life with this lens, and getting the best overall sharpness across the frame probably requires manually focusing for the edges.
 
Looks like a bad copy. My copy (now sold) is sharp edge to edge wide open. You can also see right corner is slightly more blurry than left corner, suggesting centering issue. I had to go through many copies to find a good one. Sample variation shows up on high res bodies.
 

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