Have I outgrown my E-M1? Low light - Moving subjects

So to get the same effect with E-M1, you need a 10mm focal length at around f/4.5, 20 seconds at ISO 3200. Any modern MFT body with Sony sensor would produce roughly the same result as his Pentax.

Your E-M1 will have trouble going up against Pentax because of poor handling of dark current noise that's common for Panasonic sensors. Not to mention possibility of PDAF pixels showing up. But you should still get a usable output, although it might require more time spent in post.

Still, with a scene like that, I would do it differently. I would take one shot wide open calculated for the stars, and another shot for the ground, with the same exposure, but stopped down for maximal DoF. Then merge in post.

EDIT: refer to Martin's post above for actual calculations.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

You are an experienced photographer who wants to push further your photography.

Nothing to see with noobs who blame the gear for their lack of technique.

All those techniques told in this thread are very valuable, and some can be even more efficient if applied to a better tool for the job.

Yes, it's painful to change system. But sometimes it can be rewarding.

On the other hand, it can be rewarding to learn better techniques to overcome weaknesses of your current system.

Good luck in your choice, I hope it will make you happy, that's what counts.

As you asked, here are some examples similar to your pictures taken with FF cameras :

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/56678045
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55265412
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57450802

--
Cheers,
Frederic
http://www.azurphoto.com/
 
Last edited:
I think you need 2 cameras at least, not just one. I have tried about everything there is and that seems to be the inevitable outcome. As you can see I have a Canon 1D MK III for wildlife and sports but it is only 10mp and just doesn't cut it for feather detail for me anymore. But it can flat out track what you want it too! YMMV.
You have summed up my quandary quite well. I'm not made of money either but as I grow into photography I find myself bumping up against the limits of the E-M1 more and more.

I need help deciding which way to go (grow) from here.
Sometimes I also find myself wanting more too, but have to draw a line because of the expense involved in changing systems, so I kept my Nikon D7100 which I still find to be a capable camera for action and birding and my E-M1 serves me well for most other types of photography. I purchased quite a few high end 4/3 lenses for the E-M1 after I discovered how good the phase detection AF is on the Olympus, and also purchased the Tamron 150-600mm for the Nikon, but even so, I am always looking for better, but will continue to resist.
 
As a photographer who is still learning, like others of us, you have been given lots of good advice. A number of videos and detailed suggestions have been made including by me.

Equipment depends on your particular goals. Certain lenses and cameras do things better than others. Bob Tullis has pointed out why he likes FF for low light photography, one of his specialties. That's fine.

If you have mastered your camera and have decided that you want to specialize in an area where FF is a better tool, use it. Maybe your photographic vision has shifted. That does not mean you have "outgrown" your EM1. Maybe you need to "outgrow" your club president if you are making his priorities your own. The question is, what is your photographic vision?

F.
 
"As for those settings of f/2.8 and ISO 400 that were recommended to you - they wouldn't have worked for what I personally wanted to accomplish. I wanted more depth of field in my image than f/2.8 could have provided wit the focal length of my lens and the focusing distance to the subject. I wanted the salt formations to be in focus from the near foreground through the distant middle ground and the mountains to not be too soft. For me f/6.7 was barely acceptable for my desired depth of field. I also didn't want a shutter speed longer than 20 seconds if possible in order to avoid unreasonably elongated stars in the sky. My ISO needed to be 6400 in order to accommodate my desired values of 20 seconds of exposure at f/6.7. The camera was a Pentax K-5 IIs and the lens was a 15mm prime."
OK, so the thing you need to get your head around is that his settings are for his camera. Your camera has a smaller sensor, so you have to adjust the settings to match.

You know that 15mm on his Pentax is not the same as 15mm on your EM1. His crop is 1.6, yours is 2, so that's a difference of 1.6 / 2 = 0.8. So,
1.5/2 = 0.75
FOV - his 15mm x 0.8 = 12mm for you.
15 x 0.75 = 11.25mm (really negligibly wider than 12mm)
But you know that a 12mm lens does not give the same DOF as a 15mm. In fact you must multiply the f/number by 0.8 too, so

DOF - his f/6.7 x 0.8 = f/5.2 for you.
f/6.7 x 0.75 = f/5
Which leaves ISO to make the exposure work. You've reduced two corners of the exposure triangle by 0.8 so you need to balance the last one by 0.8 squared, so

ISO - his ISO 6400 x 0.8 x 0.8 = ISO 4000 for you.
And ISO 6400 x 0.75 x 0.75 = 3600

All in all, about a third or a fourth of a stop difference with 1.6x

So, technically, you should have gotten pretty similar results.
Make sure "noise reduction" is enabled (the camera will spend 20 seconds taking the photo and 20 seconds doing a dark frame subtraction to reduce hot pixels) and you should get something fairly comparable to his photo AFAIK (assuming I did the maths right - would have been easier if he had been shooting FF!).
 
Regarding your examples, the first one is quite nice, but the second have some basic flaws, like shooting f:8. You want to shoot stars wide open.
Yup. As long as the lens doesn't have any particular flaws like excessive coma when wide open. But in this case, it does look like massive user error has contributed to the poor results in more than one example.

That doesn't preclude the general gist of the discussion though.

You need all the light you can get.
The E-M1 is no king of low light photography, but is way ahead of what was available a few years ago, including FF DSLRs,
Hmmm. How many years are we talking about here? I have a feeling if you compared a 9 year old D3/D700 against a current EM1, the Nikon would still be noticeably better at astro stuff.

so is all about technique. Yes you can get a far better image with a FF DSLR or a Sony FF mirrorless, but at what cost in money and size/weight?
Interesting comment. I generally agree (although now I think about it, its NOT all about technique. Its about technique AND the right gear!), but lets look at an example of the problem in what to buy.

A large percentage of star shots that people want to take involve capturing a large swathe of the sky (get a large chunk of the milky way in for example) and often with also some land based content to give it context. Lots of people like a wide 14mm (in 35mm FF terms) type of lens. Its one of the reasons the 14-24mm f2.8 nikkor is so popular. It is however pretty chunky, and its not cheap.

This necessitates a wide angle lens. Now as an olympus shooter, you do have the new fast fisheye as an option, but a fisheye is rather restrictive, so most people would rather a rectilinear option. The Oly 7-14/2.8 is probably your best bet.

The Nikon lens is £1450. Phew. And its 970g. Double phew.

The Oly is £830 and 'only' 534g. Much nicer.

But the Nikon lens fits on a FF body that will give you considerably cleaner results. And it will be immediately noticeable at the settings needed for things like 20 sec ISO6400 shots. Equivalence can't save you here as you'll be shooting both systems wide open at f2.8 and the shutter speed will be limited to how long it takes for stars to streak. In this case, as FF sensor WILL give you noticeably better results.

So how much are you willing to pay for that extra quality FF will unquestionably give you in this particular scenario.

Not easy to answer. Especially as the Panasonic 7-14 f4 is cheaper (£740), considerably lighter at only 300g (why was it people started using MFT in the first place?) and 'only' gives up one stop penalty for this. Yet a number of people ARE prepared to pay the difference both in cost and weight for this. It seems to be worth it to them. Strange that so many will stop there though.

The other fly in the ointment of ultimate decision though is that the FF shooter has another choice. The 14mm f2.8 samyang prime. Its just as wide. Just as fast. Optically excellent. Low coma. Costs £270 and weighs a bit LESS than the Oly 7-14. Yet on the FF body, you would still get the superior noise performance without giving up anything else.

Wow. And its £560 CHEAPER than the Oly !!

All of a sudden a nice NEW Canon 6D at £1100 or a Nikon D610 at £999 to hang it off seems a much more attractive option when you factor the lens costs into things. Buying a second hand FF body even more so (especially with a load of FF mirrorless Sony's on ebay)

For most astro stuff, this is one of the situations where you are pushing up against the limits of ALL systems. Any weakness is going to show and you've basically got three options. You've either got to:

1. Accept the limitations (but don't deny they exist!!) and do what you can with what you've got

2. Don't shoot that type of image in the first place. Shoot something else.

3. Or buy some gear that will give you better results. And since you can't currently get a 7mm f1.4 MFT lens, that pretty much means looking at a FF setup.

Honestly, if one is thinking of doing astro seriously, picking up a 14mm 2.8 samyang and say a second hand FF body is a very, VERY compelling option. I don't understand why more people here don't consider it, especially when the conversation starts to get around to buying some pretty expensive mft lenses!

 
Since the conversation is still going I'm going to start another thread.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top