RAW vs. JPEG

"I would be very interested to know how much practical difference it makes in terms of achievable image quality to compare a raw capture and a JPEG capture of a scene which have both been captured with exposures optimized for their respective capture format."
That's an odd thing to ask, as nothing substitutes first-hand experience.
 
Let's say that you're shooting at f/5.6 and 1/80 sec. With raw it'll for example be possible to shoot at ISO 800 without blowing highlights. With JPEG some highlights will maybe be blown at ISO 800, but not if reducing ISO to ISO 500.
But midtones in such a JPEG are now in need of editing, 'cause they are "underexposed". Try and see.

Next, there are no pure ISO-less cameras, intermediate ISO settings are often digital, and sometimes they are clipped from the next "even" ISO setting. Most of the current Canon cameras are fully ISO-dependent.
 
The thread link I posted originally on this thread demonstrates clearly that processed JPEGs are almost as good as processed RAW images
I would dispute that as nonsense.
Look for yourself. Example 12 in original size to get the toggle between ooc JPEG, processed JPEG, and processed RAW:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57617547
I looked and I went through most of what was posted to start the thread. I'm sticking with nonsense. The whole methodology is flawed from the start. In his comparisons he uses raw and JPEG files from the same exposure. If you're going to compare the best you can get from camera JPEGs versus the best you can get from a raw file you need to start with two different exposures. Just as in the example photos I posted. The camera ruined the JPEG because I correctly exposed the sensor for the raw file.

What's the point of comparing a camera JPEG or repaired camera JPEG with a raw file of the same exposure if that exposure isn't ideal for the raw file? In other words it's not a fair race if the raw file has to run with it's shoelaces tied together.
Wouldn't call it "nonsense". That's just how it works if you're shooting RAW+JPEG. And I'm pretty sure that pretty much everybody that goes from shooting JPEG only to RAW only or RAW+JPEG will shoot and expose exactly like they did before.
Then they doing so out of ignorance and the testing isn't valid. Again, it's a fact: shooting raw+JPEG, one is being mishandled severely for exposure and it's going to be the raw as the JPEG would look pretty awful otherwise and couldn't overcome the exposure fix on that data!
Agree that raw in some cases ( if shooting e.g. red flowers) will be "mishandled severely for exposure" if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' without blowing important highlights. In other cases it'll be much less severe, and it only happens if shooting at or close to base ISO.
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera. IN ALL CASES.
I wouldn't call e.g. 1/3 stop "severe", but let's not argue about that. ;-)
In low light, at higher ISOs, or maybe more accurately in situations where it isn't possible to fully saturate the sensor at base ISO, then it should be perfectly possible to use same exposure (f-stop and shutter speed) for raw and JPEG. Just shoot at an ISO where the JPEG highlights won't be clipped.
Same applies as above: Even in cases where low light forces you to underexpose the sensor, the ISO gain applied when creating the raw file will cause the camera processor to clip highlights in the JPEG if you managed to get the best possible (raw) exposure at the higher ISO setting.

You can't shoot raw + JPEG, get a 'correct' exposure for the JPEG OOC and not short change the raw file. How severe the difference is all depends on if you're interested in this:

best adjective: of the most excellent, effective, or desirable type or quality.
Let's say that you're shooting at f/5.6 and 1/80 sec. With raw it'll for example be possible to shoot at ISO 800 without blowing highlights. With JPEG some highlights will maybe be blown at ISO 800, but not if reducing ISO to ISO 500. It won't harm the raw file if reducing the ISO to ISO 500 for that too. The exposure will still be the same, f/5.6 and 1/80 sec. The sensor will still receive the same amount of light/photons as it did at ISO 800 (at least it won't harm the raw file if we assume that the sensor is 'ISO-less'...).
And let's assume the sensor is not ISO-invariant which is the case with pretty much everybody's cameras. And I regularly increase exposure 2/3 to 1 1/2 stops above the exposure that's ideal for a JPEG to get a best raw file. And again the word is BEST.
 
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera.
If you're really going to compare RAW and JPEG, you need to take separate images in both formats with the best exposure for both and then process them as best as possible with post processing software. That's the only comparison that makes any sense. And my guess is that the differences won't be that great.
Depends on what you want and what you're shooting. One more time I'm going to write this word and make it bold: BEST, any difference, even "not that great" will be less than best.

Let's see what happens when what you're shooting is a little demanding:

Here's the two files Nick doesn't have the expertise to create. He's welcome to them:

DSCF4643.RAF

Alley_jpeg.jpg

The difference between the exposures is 2/3 stop. The blue channel in the JPEG is still clipped but the red and green channels are not so if Nick is good he can recover the JPEG clipping. I could give you a JPEG that's 1 full stop less exposed than the raw without the blue channel clipped, but you really don't want to see that. Here's what this JPEG looks like SOOC:

814f91a02ee7478389405ee9edb19a94.jpg

And here's my processing of the raw file that received 2/3 stop more exposure:



a1e857335ebc4bf49aa321388b049f35.jpg





Go for it, process the JPEG, let's see how the shadows look when you open them up. The photo I took here could not be done at all shooting JPEG -- simply impossible.
Here's Nick's responses to some of your points that I put on his third thread in his series. The below quote from the third response pretty much says the same thing I say in the above paragraph.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57660128

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57660466

"I would be very interested to know how much practical difference it makes in terms of achievable image quality to compare a raw capture and a JPEG capture of a scene which have both been captured with exposures optimized for their respective capture format."

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57661805
Iliah beat me to this one: "I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format." Says it all.
 

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"I would be very interested to know how much practical difference it makes in terms of achievable image quality to compare a raw capture and a JPEG capture of a scene which have both been captured with exposures optimized for their respective capture format."
That's an odd thing to ask, as nothing substitutes first-hand experience.
"I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format. Perhaps someone who has the necessary expertise will produce some such pairs to allow this issue to be explored in practical terms rather than theoretically as has so far been the case?"

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57661805
 
"I would be very interested to know how much practical difference it makes in terms of achievable image quality to compare a raw capture and a JPEG capture of a scene which have both been captured with exposures optimized for their respective capture format."
That's an odd thing to ask, as nothing substitutes first-hand experience.
"I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format. Perhaps someone who has the necessary expertise will produce some such pairs to allow this issue to be explored in practical terms rather than theoretically as has so far been the case?"

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57661805
Bracketing and FastRawViewer is all that is needed.
 
Iliah beat me to this one: "I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format." Says it all.
It says he's inquiring and doesn't know it all.
 
Could you point me to Example 12, please?
It's the first image on the post linked below. It toggles between ooc JPEG, processed JPEG, and processed RAW when you look at it in original size.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57617547
I see, thank you. But the original raw seems to be not available.
That I don't know.

There's three threads on this series now and I haven't even begun to absorb it. And my specific question (best processed RAW vs. best processed JPEG) seems to be not front and center.
 
Iliah beat me to this one: "I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format." Says it all.
It says he's inquiring and doesn't know it all.
OK -- been there, done that and happy to help.
 
Iliah beat me to this one: "I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format." Says it all.
It says he's inquiring and doesn't know it all.
OK -- been there, done that and happy to help.
Thanks.

I appreciate your help. And I think your post with the two alley shots could provide the answer I'm looking for, though I'm not able to process the JPEG.

Part of my problem is the software choice for processing both JPEGs and RAW. I have E9, which is evidently fairly worthless for this kind of thing.
 
my specific question (best processed RAW vs. best processed JPEG) seems to be not front and center.
JPEG is already heavily processed in camera, re-processing is limited after that. How much is lost during the conversion to JPEG in a camera depends on the scene, in-camera JPEG processing engine, and JPEG settings.

A simple test would be to shoot low contrast text (similar to what DPR are using in their new studio scene, but adding snaps in different colours) and see how much underexposure you can recover from JPEG and from raw.
 
my specific question (best processed RAW vs. best processed JPEG) seems to be not front and center.
JPEG is already heavily processed in camera, re-processing is limited after that. How much is lost during the conversion to JPEG in a camera depends on the scene, in-camera JPEG processing engine, and JPEG settings.

A simple test would be to shoot low contrast text (similar to what DPR are using in their new studio scene, but adding snaps in different colours) and see how much underexposure you can recover from JPEG and from raw.
Can that be done with E9?
 
Iliah beat me to this one: "I should very much like to know the answer to this question, but unfortunately I lack the expertise to capture pairs of raw and JPEG images in which both captures are optimally exposed for their respective capture format." Says it all.
It says he's inquiring and doesn't know it all.
OK -- been there, done that and happy to help.
Thanks.

I appreciate your help. And I think your post with the two alley shots could provide the answer I'm looking for, though I'm not able to process the JPEG.

Part of my problem is the software choice for processing both JPEGs and RAW. I have E9, which is evidently fairly worthless for this kind of thing.
Time for better raw processing software. It doesn't have to cost: RawTherapp, and DarkTable are free. What came with the camera?
 
Part of my problem is the software choice for processing both JPEGs and RAW. I have E9, which is evidently fairly worthless for this kind of thing.
Time for better raw processing software. It doesn't have to cost: RawTherapy, and DarkTable are free. What came with the camera?
Thanks.

I have an FZ1000, but I don't know what it came with.
 
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera.
If you're really going to compare RAW and JPEG, you need to take separate images in both formats with the best exposure for both and then process them as best as possible with post processing software. That's the only comparison that makes any sense. And my guess is that the differences won't be that great.
Depends on what you want and what you're shooting. One more time I'm going to write this word and make it bold: BEST, any difference, even "not that great" will be less than best.

Let's see what happens when what you're shooting is a little demanding:

Here's the two files Nick doesn't have the expertise to create. He's welcome to them:

DSCF4643.RAF

Alley_jpeg.jpg

The difference between the exposures is 2/3 stop. The blue channel in the JPEG is still clipped but the red and green channels are not so if Nick is good he can recover the JPEG clipping. I could give you a JPEG that's 1 full stop less exposed than the raw without the blue channel clipped, but you really don't want to see that. Here's what this JPEG looks like SOOC:

814f91a02ee7478389405ee9edb19a94.jpg

And here's my processing of the raw file that received 2/3 stop more exposure:

a1e857335ebc4bf49aa321388b049f35.jpg

Go for it, process the JPEG, let's see how the shadows look when you open them up. The photo I took here could not be done at all shooting JPEG -- simply impossible.
Guess you're right that raw has the advantage here. Lifting shadows is one of the cases where it's nice to have the raw file. Though, wouldn't say that it's impossible to do if shooting JPEG. Most cameras have features like ADL (Nikon) or DRO (Sony) that'll lift the shadows in-camera before saving the JPEG. Or even better, you could use a HDR mode that automatically will shoot, merge and align several images in-camera. Not impossible that such a mode could give you a result with JPEG that's better than what's possible with a single raw exposure.
 
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera.
If you're really going to compare RAW and JPEG, you need to take separate images in both formats with the best exposure for both and then process them as best as possible with post processing software. That's the only comparison that makes any sense. And my guess is that the differences won't be that great.
Depends on what you want and what you're shooting. One more time I'm going to write this word and make it bold: BEST, any difference, even "not that great" will be less than best.

Let's see what happens when what you're shooting is a little demanding:

Here's the two files Nick doesn't have the expertise to create. He's welcome to them:

DSCF4643.RAF

Alley_jpeg.jpg

The difference between the exposures is 2/3 stop. The blue channel in the JPEG is still clipped but the red and green channels are not so if Nick is good he can recover the JPEG clipping. I could give you a JPEG that's 1 full stop less exposed than the raw without the blue channel clipped, but you really don't want to see that. Here's what this JPEG looks like SOOC:

814f91a02ee7478389405ee9edb19a94.jpg

And here's my processing of the raw file that received 2/3 stop more exposure:

a1e857335ebc4bf49aa321388b049f35.jpg

Go for it, process the JPEG, let's see how the shadows look when you open them up. The photo I took here could not be done at all shooting JPEG -- simply impossible.
Guess you're right that raw has the advantage here. Lifting shadows is one of the cases where it's nice to have the raw file. Though, wouldn't say that it's impossible to do if shooting JPEG. Most cameras have features like ADL (Nikon) or DRO (Sony) that'll lift the shadows in-camera before saving the JPEG. Or even better, you could use a HDR mode that automatically will shoot, merge and align several images in-camera. Not impossible that such a mode could give you a result with JPEG that's better than what's possible with a single raw exposure.
Guys

you show overexposed or underexposed RAW of JPEGs

I am not in this game. I try to expose correctly but I take 2000 JPEG pictures at the occasion therefore very little incentive for PP

I need to see the superior RAW exposed the best over the best exposed JPEG of the same frame.

Is it a crushing difference?

This is the question.



--
Old Greenlander
"I show the world the way I see it"
35 years of photography and still learning
 
I am the author about whom some comments have been made in this thread in relation to some posts that I made in another forum and assumptions and conclusions therefrom about my beliefs and competencies.

You might or might not be interested to know the following.

I have been shooting raw exclusively for some time because I believe I can get better results with raw. This is not just a matter of being able better to recover highlights and/or shadows, but involves more subtle differences in the rendition of textures and colours. (This matters a lot to me as I photograph a lot of botanical subjects.) I discussed these differences in this post in the referenced set of posts, based on what I saw as between the processed raw images, the processed JPEGs and the out of the camera JPEGs in the large number of animated 3-way comparisons that I posted.

I do not believe in "one-click" post processing for my own images. I always process them individually. The quoted text in this post is not from me.

I shot raw and JPEG solely for the purpose of the exercise, not because I have any intention of deriving my processed images from JPEG originals in future. I mentioned that I would be continuing to shoot raw in the pre-penultimate paragraph of the above linked post.

My use of batch processing during the exercise was initially to let me do some quick initial comparisons between some processed raw, processed JPEG and out of the camera JPEG images for the 1100 or so raw+JPEG test captures from the first phase of the exercise. Because of the (to me surprisingly good) results from the batch processing I became interested in batch processing from two perspectives:

Would batch processing be useful to at least some people who did not want to get involved in the details of post processing and/or raw file processing, but who might be able to get better results from a batch processed image, raw or JPEG, than from an out of the camera JPEG?

From the reaction I got to the examples I posted, the answer to that seems to be in the affirmative.

Would it be useful to me to use one or more batch processes in the early stages of my image processing workflow?

I often have to 500 to 1000 and sometimes more images to deal with from a day's and/or night's shooting. I shoot mainly close-ups and macros - up to 10:1 or so in full frame terms - and, like other macro shooters, I have a high failure rate. I also have a high repetition and similarity rate for successful shots. I under-expose a great deal (as in often, and by relatively large amounts) in order to preserve highlights in shots of invertebrates, which often have highly reflective surfaces which can defeat the best flash diffusers, to guard against colour and detail bleaching in natural light botanical shots of subjects with delicately coloured and/or textured petals, and/or to conserve flash battery power and/or reduce flash recycle time.

I am conservative in my exposures (as in, not exposing to the right) because I often have to work quickly when opportunities first arise, and continuously when capturing behavioural sequences or tracking moving subjects, during the course of which tracking the scene's reflectance etc can vary considerably with me having little and sometimes no time to make adjustments. In addition I may only have one opportunity to capture a shot because the act of shooting may cause the subject to exit the scene, or the subject may move away at any time irrespective of my activity.

With botanical subjects under-exposure is often more considered, being done on a scene-specific basis, based on reviewing on the LCD captured images of subjects which are susceptible to bleaching even before any channel is clipped (eg delicate pink petals) or channel clipping (eg bright red petals), but sometimes there may be a random element of exposure fluctuation as when photographing flowers in dappled sunlight beneath moving foliage, in which case I can decrease the probability of over-exposure by "under-exposing the average".

Being successful with the approach of reviewing captured images requires an appreciation, based on experience, of the relationship between what is seen on the LCD and how the (raw) files will respond to post processing. I do not make any use of the camera histogram or exposure meter. The conservatism in my exposures stems from my preference to have underexposed shots that I can massage up in post processing rather than risk over-exposed shots which have one or more channels blown and irretrievably lost details or colour integrity. I "play the probabilities"; that is, I don't underexpose enough to guarantee that I never get any bleaching or channel clipping, because of the implications that would have for retrievable image quality. I try to balance the probability of shots lost from bleaching or clipping against the issues of image recovery and rendering.

Especially because of the frequent under-exposure, the shots from a session need some processing in order to get them into a consistent state where I can see enough to assess which of them are likely to be useful and select them for inclusion in the next round of assessment/rejection. The evidence from the exercise suggests that batch processing can have a useful role for me in this regard.These might be batch processed JPEG images because the processed JPEG images are close enough in appearance to the processed raw files to act as surrogates for the raw files at this stage in the process, and useful in that role because they (batch) process significantly faster than the raw files, which is a consideration when dealing with large numbers of images.

The exercise also suggested that batch processing the raw files that emerge from the selection process may be useful as the first stage in the processing pipeline, prior to image-specific adjustments.

By the content and tone of various comments in this thread it appears that some of you have already come to settled conclusions about my ignorance and incompetence which, being settled, need no further discussion, but in case there are others who still have some lingering doubts on that score it may be helpful if I give you some additional information which should put the matter to rest once and for all. You may like to note that:
  • I use the smallest available aperture for most of my invertebrate photography, which as everyone (including me) knows means a considerable loss of detail from diffraction (and bear in mind that invertebrate photography is largely about detail);
  • by choice after extensive (and doubtless methodologically flawed) comparisons I, by choice, use a bridge camera with a small (1/2.3") sensor for the majority of my invertebrate photography apart from large and extremely small invertebrate subjects, for which I use an APS-C and micro four thirds camera respectively;
  • Having assessed the results I obtained from, and working practices I needed to use with, prime macro lenses including the Canon 100L Macro and the Canon MPE-65, I rejected prime macro lenses in favour of continuing to use close-up lenses on my interchangeable lens cameras. For the avoidance of doubt, with all my cameras, fixed and interchangeable lens, I am using relatively inexpensive, optically unsophisticated close-up lenses on the front of relatively inexpensive general purpose telephoto zoom lenses which are of course optically suboptimal;
  • I use auto-focus down to about 5:1 in full frame terms, which as many people know does not work for macros even at 1:1 or less magnification;
  • I use contrast detect focusing rather than (when available) phase detect focusing, even with moving subjects apart from birds in flight, for which I do use phase detect focusing; and
  • I use live view and the LCD rather than the viewfinder, even with my dSLR (Canon 70D).
 
What came with the camera?
Just found this thread. I don't understand this at all. What is it?

"While I prefer doing processing on my Mac, I used the camera RAW Processing and voila. I can see where this could be useful at times."

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/54271544

"The RAW to JPG option allows adjustments to Exposure, shadows, contrast, sharpness, various modes (vivid, B&W etc.), highlights, saturation and so on. In fact you'd have more dynamic range than what you'd get with JPGS."

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/54272809
 
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera.
If you're really going to compare RAW and JPEG, you need to take separate images in both formats with the best exposure for both and then process them as best as possible with post processing software. That's the only comparison that makes any sense. And my guess is that the differences won't be that great.
Depends on what you want and what you're shooting. One more time I'm going to write this word and make it bold: BEST, any difference, even "not that great" will be less than best.

Let's see what happens when what you're shooting is a little demanding:

Here's the two files Nick doesn't have the expertise to create. He's welcome to them:

DSCF4643.RAF

Alley_jpeg.jpg

The difference between the exposures is 2/3 stop. The blue channel in the JPEG is still clipped but the red and green channels are not so if Nick is good he can recover the JPEG clipping. I could give you a JPEG that's 1 full stop less exposed than the raw without the blue channel clipped, but you really don't want to see that. Here's what this JPEG looks like SOOC:

814f91a02ee7478389405ee9edb19a94.jpg

And here's my processing of the raw file that received 2/3 stop more exposure:

a1e857335ebc4bf49aa321388b049f35.jpg

Go for it, process the JPEG, let's see how the shadows look when you open them up. The photo I took here could not be done at all shooting JPEG -- simply impossible.
Guess you're right that raw has the advantage here. Lifting shadows is one of the cases where it's nice to have the raw file. Though, wouldn't say that it's impossible to do if shooting JPEG.
I would and it is.
Most cameras have features like ADL (Nikon) or DRO (Sony) that'll lift the shadows in-camera before saving the JPEG.
Yep, got the same function in the Fuji I used to take the photo above. Those functions are self-defeating. They get the "expanded DR" JPEGs by forcing an underexposure of the raw file. For example the DR function on my Fuji is disabled unless you raise the ISO above base. At that point as the camera meters, for example an exposure at ISO 400, the camera electronics withhold the ISO gain and in fact expose the sensor at ISO 200 forcing an underexposure -- the last thing needed!

In the above photo and in the photo of the truck I posted earlier I used every last bit of the 10 stops of DR my camera sensor can deliver. Those functions would have forced an underexposure and likewise forced a DR reduction in the sensor's capacity. Those photos are impossible shooting JPEG.
Or even better, you could use a HDR mode that automatically will shoot, merge and align several images in-camera. Not impossible that such a mode could give you a result with JPEG that's better than what's possible with a single raw exposure.
Do I have to dig up my high contrast direct-sun photos of cyclists going 30 mph. for you? I shoot exclusively raw because it's not only the best way, it's also the easy way.

I've seen some of those in-camera HDR functions. They make some really ugly stuff. The final result has to be brought down to a printable or displayable output range and automated software isn't going to do that without getting ugly. It's still limited to a single tone curve applied to the entire final image. Then you're left trying to repair the JPEG and it's already compressed 8 bit and you're screwed.

With still subjects I can shoot HDR raw if I want to and again do the processing right -- rarely needed with today's cameras. One well-exposed raw file brings it home.

Why try and make it hard when it's not?
 
Bottom line: In all cases, if exposing the JPEG 'correctly' so as not to blow highlights, the raw file will be exposed less than ideally. The exposure for the raw file will not be BEST. You can argue all day about what is severe or less severe; Bottom line: A best exposure for a raw file that makes best use of the sensor will result in a trashed JPEG from the camera.
If you're really going to compare RAW and JPEG, you need to take separate images in both formats with the best exposure for both and then process them as best as possible with post processing software. That's the only comparison that makes any sense. And my guess is that the differences won't be that great.
Depends on what you want and what you're shooting. One more time I'm going to write this word and make it bold: BEST, any difference, even "not that great" will be less than best.

Let's see what happens when what you're shooting is a little demanding:

Here's the two files Nick doesn't have the expertise to create. He's welcome to them:

DSCF4643.RAF

Alley_jpeg.jpg

The difference between the exposures is 2/3 stop. The blue channel in the JPEG is still clipped but the red and green channels are not so if Nick is good he can recover the JPEG clipping. I could give you a JPEG that's 1 full stop less exposed than the raw without the blue channel clipped, but you really don't want to see that. Here's what this JPEG looks like SOOC:

814f91a02ee7478389405ee9edb19a94.jpg

And here's my processing of the raw file that received 2/3 stop more exposure:

a1e857335ebc4bf49aa321388b049f35.jpg

Go for it, process the JPEG, let's see how the shadows look when you open them up. The photo I took here could not be done at all shooting JPEG -- simply impossible.
Guess you're right that raw has the advantage here. Lifting shadows is one of the cases where it's nice to have the raw file. Though, wouldn't say that it's impossible to do if shooting JPEG. Most cameras have features like ADL (Nikon) or DRO (Sony) that'll lift the shadows in-camera before saving the JPEG. Or even better, you could use a HDR mode that automatically will shoot, merge and align several images in-camera. Not impossible that such a mode could give you a result with JPEG that's better than what's possible with a single raw exposure.
Guys

you show overexposed or underexposed RAW of JPEGs

I am not in this game. I try to expose correctly but I take 2000 JPEG pictures at the occasion therefore very little incentive for PP

I need to see the superior RAW exposed the best over the best exposed JPEG of the same frame.

Is it a crushing difference?

This is the question.

--
Old Greenlander
"I show the world the way I see it"
35 years of photography and still learning
Just interested what do you do with your 2000 pics? Wedding photographer?

Ian
 

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