Reasonably priced manual macro lens for MFT

third son

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I have an EM5II that I would like to use for macro and focus stacked images (sometimes together). Are there any reasonably priced, sharp macro lenses I could adapt to this body? I bow to the collective wisdom of this group.

Thanks for any insight!
 
I have an EM5II that I would like to use for macro and focus stacked images (sometimes together). Are there any reasonably priced, sharp macro lenses I could adapt to this body? I bow to the collective wisdom of this group.

Thanks for any insight!
 
Olympus OMD EM5II. Sorry I forget this forum covers many different cameras. My Bad :-(
 
You can use the old 90mm Vivitar Series 1 macro lens (in any mount with a proper adapter) or a Kiron 105mm macro lens. Those old lenses were fantastic! Tack sharp and they can be had for a song. They do 1:1 natively and they give you a lot of working distance, so you're not on top of your subject.
 
In the USA, you might consider this OM 50mm f3.5 macro for about $50 (shipping extra) from KEH.com. They stand by their goods, so if they say EX (excellent) condition, it really is.


Otherwise, there's plenty of old manual focus 50mm macros from other makers in this price range. I've shot Olympus since 1972, and think OM means quality. Nikon and Canon FD are also great, but the OM adapters are simpler, with no moving parts. Figure $15 for an adapter.

I'm tempted to buy one of the above lenses from KEH, but I already have the Zuiko 35mm f3.5 AF macro ($159).
 
Any of the old manual focus 55 & 105mm micro Nikkors are excellent and can be found for less than or not much more than $100.
 
Keep in mind though that 50mm macros of that era focused only to 1/2 lifesize without extension tubes. Additionally, the 50's varied in image quality, whereas the 90-105 macros were very consistent across the board and you'd be hard pressed to find an old macro lens in that focal range that wasn't exceptional. Additionally, the 90-105mm macros went all the way to lifesize magnification without extension tubes.
 
Keep in mind though that 50mm macros of that era focused only to 1/2 lifesize without extension tubes. Additionally, the 50's varied in image quality, whereas the 90-105 macros were very consistent across the board and you'd be hard pressed to find an old macro lens in that focal range that wasn't exceptional. Additionally, the 90-105mm macros went all the way to lifesize magnification without extension tubes.
That's good to know. Always glad to be corrected and learn something when I am wrong.

But the OP and I myself are using 2X crop sensors. Wouldn't that compensate for the lesser magnification when 50mm macro's were used for film?
 
I have an EM5II that I would like to use for macro and focus stacked images (sometimes together). Are there any reasonably priced, sharp macro lenses I could adapt to this body? I bow to the collective wisdom of this group.

Thanks for any insight!

--
-Paul
For cheap, you can get a 2x macro converter .......the better ones are something like 7 elements and give variable macro from 1:1 (aprox with a 50mm lens) to 2x.

If you use a wider lens you get greater than 1:1 full macro.

Most legacy 50mm lenses are pretty good stopped down where you would use these for macro.

You can also reverse a lens onto the for even greater variable macro so with one of these (which can be very cheap), a 50mm legacy lens (also can be very cheap) a reversing ring for the lens (which you could also use on the lens by itself reversed) and a mount adapter you get all sorts of combinations...

Even the better 2x macro converters are not too expensive but there are also cheaper 5 element ones and others no doubt and even 3x macro converters that are similar except when used as a teleconverter gives 3x so 50mm becomes 150mm.
 
+1. I have a 55/2.8 micro AI-S. Besides being a good macro lens, it's also an excellent all round 55mm lens - small, light and very sharp from wide open. It work well with extention tubes like the Nikon PK-13. BTW, this combo can also be used with a Nikon ES-1 Slide copier for digitalizing old slides and negatives (with a full frame digital camera). Much cheaper than a film scanner.
 
Keep in mind though that 50mm macros of that era focused only to 1/2 lifesize without extension tubes. Additionally, the 50's varied in image quality, whereas the 90-105 macros were very consistent across the board and you'd be hard pressed to find an old macro lens in that focal range that wasn't exceptional. Additionally, the 90-105mm macros went all the way to lifesize magnification without extension tubes.
That's good to know. Always glad to be corrected and learn something when I am wrong.

But the OP and I myself are using 2X crop sensors. Wouldn't that compensate for the lesser magnification when 50mm macro's were used for film?
Yes and no. Lifesize is lifesize regardless of the sensor size. So, whereas lifesize in 35mm equivalent would mean taking a shot of a 36mm object, which would fill the frame, in 4/3, the magnification would be the same, but you would only see 18mm of the object. So, it seems as though you're getting a lot greater magnification because you're cropping, but all you're doing is cropping.
 
I would start with one of the classic film era 50-55mm macro lenses, as suggested. Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Minolta, Olympus, etc. In my experience, these macro lenses do quite well with digital sensors.
 
Asahi (Pentax) Takumar 50mm and 100mm macro lenses in M42 - excellent quality as always from this series of lenses. At least 50 years old and can be had in as new condition - that says a lot for their build quality.
 
I have an EM5II that I would like to use for macro and focus stacked images (sometimes together). Are there any reasonably priced, sharp macro lenses I could adapt to this body? I bow to the collective wisdom of this group.

Thanks for any insight!
 
Many thanks to everyone who added to this conversation! Certainly many options which is a good thing!
 
Keep in mind though that 50mm macros of that era focused only to 1/2 lifesize without extension tubes. Additionally, the 50's varied in image quality, whereas the 90-105 macros were very consistent across the board and you'd be hard pressed to find an old macro lens in that focal range that wasn't exceptional. Additionally, the 90-105mm macros went all the way to lifesize magnification without extension tubes.
That's good to know. Always glad to be corrected and learn something when I am wrong.

But the OP and I myself are using 2X crop sensors. Wouldn't that compensate for the lesser magnification when 50mm macro's were used for film?
Yes and no. Lifesize is lifesize regardless of the sensor size. So, whereas lifesize in 35mm equivalent would mean taking a shot of a 36mm object, which would fill the frame, in 4/3, the magnification would be the same, but you would only see 18mm of the object. So, it seems as though you're getting a lot greater magnification because you're cropping, but all you're doing is cropping.
True.

If the pixels are smaller on the smaller sensor, you may be able to record finer details on the subject, at the same on-sensor magnification. (I say "may" because diffraction often limits the resolution of detail.)
 
Keep in mind though that 50mm macros of that era focused only to 1/2 lifesize without extension tubes. Additionally, the 50's varied in image quality, whereas the 90-105 macros were very consistent across the board and you'd be hard pressed to find an old macro lens in that focal range that wasn't exceptional. Additionally, the 90-105mm macros went all the way to lifesize magnification without extension tubes.
That's good to know. Always glad to be corrected and learn something when I am wrong.

But the OP and I myself are using 2X crop sensors. Wouldn't that compensate for the lesser magnification when 50mm macro's were used for film?
Yes and no. Lifesize is lifesize regardless of the sensor size. So, whereas lifesize in 35mm equivalent would mean taking a shot of a 36mm object, which would fill the frame, in 4/3, the magnification would be the same, but you would only see 18mm of the object. So, it seems as though you're getting a lot greater magnification because you're cropping, but all you're doing is cropping.
True.

If the pixels are smaller on the smaller sensor, you may be able to record finer details on the subject, at the same on-sensor magnification. (I say "may" because diffraction often limits the resolution of detail.)
I beleive it plays out like this:

Suppose I want to take a picure of a 36mm object. When I'm done I want the object to cover the entire image, and I shall display it at the full size of my computer screen.

With a 35mm Full Frame 16MP camera, I want a 1:1 magnification so the image covers the long edge of the sensor, 36mm with 4899 pixels. So, 4899/36 = 136 pixels per mm of the the object.

With an M43 16MP camera, I choose just under a 1/2x magnification (48%) so that the image covers the long edge of the sensor, 17.3mm with 4619 pixels. So 4619/36 = 128 pixels per mm of the object

Considering only the number of pixels and object detail, the resolution of object detail is slightly less for M43 due to the aspect ratio. If the example had been for a smaller 16MP sensor with a 3:2 aspect ratio (as for APSC sensors), the number of pixels on the long edge would be the same, and resolution of object detail would be the same.

However dynamic range and noise are also affect detail resolution. These factors are dependent on sensor technology, selected ISO, and the crop factor of the sensor. Different conclusions can be shown depending on what factors you decide to hold constant.

Assume the same sensor technology, pixel count, object lighting, object distance and field of view. To hold the same field of view, the focal length must be in proportion to the crop factor.

If you hold the F stop of the lens constant,the shorter lens will have a smaller entrance pupil. Light collected is determined by the area of the entrance pupil. The smaller sensor will have less light (and less light per pixel) due to the smaller entrance pupil of the shorter lens. The smaller sensor will produce a noisier image with less dynamic range. At higher ISOs, this will degrade the resolution of detail.

If you hold the depth of field constant (often an important consideration for macrophotography), the smaller sensor will have the same size entrance pupil as the larger sensor. The smaller sensor will thus get the same amount of light, (per pixel and over the whole sensor) as the larger sensor. Here the dynamic range and noise should be similar for the two cameras.
 
I have an EM5II that I would like to use for macro and focus stacked images (sometimes together). Are there any reasonably priced, sharp macro lenses I could adapt to this body? I bow to the collective wisdom of this group.

Thanks for any insight!
 
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Just throwing another two options in there! I have found both these lenses to have a nice balance in terms of size and weight - being 50mm and slower than some modern macro lenses, they are compact and both very sharp in my experience. The OM lens in particular is light and balances nicely on Micro 4/3 bodies - I use a Panasonic GX7. For me, 50mm also makes a good focal length with the crop factor though I guess that will depend on what you like to shoot and how far away you need to be.
 

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