Is the K1 for (me) ?

... I recently wrote to Pentax and asked them if the stabilization function in the camera would work with the samyang 24mm 1.4 on the K1 and they said that they didn't know because they don't test third party lenses. They even told me i could fry the camera if I connect an incorrect lens.

I just asked about this same issue with same lens but for a sony A mount for my A77II camera.

What i have been told is: "A-mount camera does not support input the focal length manually."

In another thread I was recently told that "the beauty" of the pentax incamera stabilization is that I can plug that samyang lens and SR will kick in to provide even lower shutter speeds for low light, that's the whole point.

For some reason, I get the strange feeling that I'm being misinformed here and I might be getting misleading inaccurate information regarding the use of the manual focus samyang lens along with the Pentax SR true function.

I'm not sure how Pentax SR works, and around here there are not that many stores that carry pentax, along with samyang Pentax mount, so is difficult for me to try it myself and see what it actually does at lower shutter speeds. I'm really not sure if any of you here have this samyang lens and can verify that in-camera stabilization does work indeed. Otherwise I feel it will be pointless for me to consider buying the K1 because after all, the SR with the "ANY" lens idea is one of the main features that was drawing me towards a Pentax body.

So, what are you guy's answer to this?
 
... I recently wrote to Pentax and asked them if the stabilization function in the camera would work with the samyang 24mm 1.4 on the K1 and they said that they didn't know because they don't test third party lenses.
It will work. The camera asks for the focal length when booting up with an unknown lens. You just give the nearest focal length.
They even told me i could fry the camera if I connect an incorrect lens.
That is a strange reply. What kind of wrong lens would that be?
 
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... I recently wrote to Pentax and asked them if the stabilization function in the camera would work with the samyang 24mm 1.4 on the K1 and they said that they didn't know because they don't test third party lenses. They even told me i could fry the camera if I connect an incorrect lens.

I just asked about this same issue with same lens but for a sony A mount for my A77II camera.

What i have been told is: "A-mount camera does not support input the focal length manually."

In another thread I was recently told that "the beauty" of the pentax incamera stabilization is that I can plug that samyang lens and SR will kick in to provide even lower shutter speeds for low light, that's the whole point.

For some reason, I get the strange feeling that I'm being misinformed here and I might be getting misleading inaccurate information regarding the use of the manual focus samyang lens along with the Pentax SR true function.

I'm not sure how Pentax SR works, and around here there are not that many stores that carry pentax, along with samyang Pentax mount, so is difficult for me to try it myself and see what it actually does at lower shutter speeds. I'm really not sure if any of you here have this samyang lens and can verify that in-camera stabilization does work indeed. Otherwise I feel it will be pointless for me to consider buying the K1 because after all, the SR with the "ANY" lens idea is one of the main features that was drawing me towards a Pentax body.

So, what are you guy's answer to this?
my sigma 17-50 is working almost perfectly with the SR of k5sii. k3ii .

though i dont have any samyang lenses
 
I can't see why Samyang lenses won't be working on K1 while they're working fine on current Pentax bodies. I have already a Samyang 500/f8 and it's working on my K5/5IIs.
 
I can't see why Samyang lenses won't be working on K1 while they're working fine on current Pentax bodies. I have already a Samyang 500/f8 and it's working on my K5/5IIs.
 
Batdude wrote: So SR does work/ kick in?
Of course it does. It has been working with third-party lenses since SR was first introduced in 2006 on the K100D. All it needs is to know what focal length the lens is, since that affects how much the sensor moves in response to camera shake. When you power on the camera after mounting a lens the focal length of which the camera does not know, it prompts you to enter the focal length. Then you're good to go. Half-press the shutter button, wait for the hand to appear in the viewfinder (this indicates that shake reduction is now operational), and fully press the shutter button.

Even if you swap lenses without powering off the camera, you can go into the menu to enter the focal length, if the focal length of the currently-mounted lens is unknown.

The only time that SR does not work is in certain drive modes, such as timer and MLU, or if you explicitly turn it off in the menu. (Movie SR is different.)

Countless forum members have been using it with third-party and old Pentax lenses (that don't tell the camera what focal length they are) for 10 years.

Its effectiveness on the K1 is CIPA rated to five stops. YMMV depending on your own personal technique.
 
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Batdude wrote: So SR does work/ kick in?
Of course it does. It has been working with third-party lenses since SR was first introduced in 2006 on the K100D. All it needs is to know what focal length the lens is, since that affects how much the sensor moves in response to camera shake. When you power on the camera after mounting a lens the focal length of which the camera does not know, it prompts you to enter the focal length. Then you're good to go. Half-press the shutter button, wait for the hand to appear in the viewfinder (this indicates that shake reduction is now operational), and fully press the shutter button.
Okay fantastic. Good to know that. I guess pentax tech support don't know what the heck I'm talking about, either that or a machine emailed me back with that strange indirect answer.

And I guess maybe my sony 's IBIS does not support this lens. I will have to look more into this one as well.
Even if you swap lenses without powering off the camera, you can go into the menu to enter the focal length, if the focal length of the currently-mounted lens is unknown.

The only time that SR does not work is in certain drive modes, such as timer and MLU, or if you explicitly turn it off in the menu. (Movie SR is different.)

Countless forum members have been using it with third-party and old Pentax lenses (that don't tell the camera what focal length they are) for 10 years.

Its effectiveness on the K1 is CIPA rated to five stops. YMMV depending on your own personal technique.
Thank you very much.
 
Would you please talk more on this "second virtual focal point".
 
... I recently wrote to Pentax and asked them if the stabilization function in the camera would work with the samyang 24mm 1.4 on the K1 and they said that they didn't know because they don't test third party lenses. They even told me i could fry the camera if I connect an incorrect lens.
The answer is as expected and perfectly true for all OEMS not just Pentax.

Pentax will never warrant or give any acknowledgment any 3rd party lens will work with their equipment because they have no control over the quality of the PK back engineering and you can be certain Samyang did not pay a royalties for interface data.

As electrical signals are passed from lens <> body it is possible for a lens to damage a body (though very unlikely)

Irrelevant of the body in use you should be asking your 3rd party manufacturer what insurance they can give their lens will work correctly , And what insurance they have against loses.!

In reality all users accept this risk and happily use 3rd party lens on OEM bodies but make no mistake the risk is the users and the 3rd party not the OEM!.

Take Tamron for example many of their lens do not pass correct distance data on PK mount this leads to incorrect flash exposures and Pentax use distance data to work out flash power.

Or Sigma where they added sub codes for incorrect Lens ID's when duplicating Pentax existent lens ID's ... This mean for these lens a body might well configure SR to 50mm when the Sigma lens in use is 300mm

Or the Sigma HSM implementation that will not work with a Pentax HD converter ... Despite Sigma claims of 100% pk compatibility their response was 'we have not intention of resolving' and removed said item from sale (Sigma 70-200 OS hsm f2.8).

Neither of the above scenarios will cause any error but will result in substandard images
 
An APS-C camera is good enough for almost anyone. Actually, a FourThirds camera and sometimes even a one inch camera is good for many (most?) photographers.

There is nothing with an FF camera that makes you a better photographer - really.

Moreover, it is big and expensive and need bigger and more expensive lenses to get the same FOV.

So, why get it?
  1. The sensor area is more than twice as big. This means, potentially, that you can get much more resolution and gradiation and dynamic range. You can get technically better raw data for your images!
  2. You might have a bunch of FF lenses and no camera body to match.
  3. You might think big is beautiful (i.e. better). Mounting a mega large super tele weighting 6.5 kilo is better balanced with a beefy camera body.
  4. The VF is bigger and/or brighter. Now, FF DSLR in general have chosen brighter. They are only 0.7x magnification. So, bigger you do not get :(
  5. Shallower DOF. A 85 mm F1.4 on an FF is a beautiful portrait lens. For APS-C you will need a 55 mm F1.0. And for FourThirds a 35 mm F0.7. The 85 mm F1.4 is probably of a much higher quality ... and probably also cheaper.
  6. Nostalgia?
  7. Some reasons that I have missed ..
 
An APS-C camera is good enough for almost anyone. Actually, a FourThirds camera and sometimes even a one inch camera is good for many (most?) photographers.

There is nothing with an FF camera that makes you a better photographer - really.

Moreover, it is big and expensive and need bigger and more expensive lenses to get the same FOV.

So, why get it?
  1. The sensor area is more than twice as big. This means, potentially, that you can get much more resolution and gradiation and dynamic range. You can get technically better raw data for your images!
  2. You might have a bunch of FF lenses and no camera body to match.
  3. You might think big is beautiful (i.e. better). Mounting a mega large super tele weighting 6.5 kilo is better balanced with a beefy camera body.
  4. The VF is bigger and/or brighter. Now, FF DSLR in general have chosen brighter. They are only 0.7x magnification. So, bigger you do not get :(
  5. Shallower DOF. A 85 mm F1.4 on an FF is a beautiful portrait lens. For APS-C you will need a 55 mm F1.0. And for FourThirds a 35 mm F0.7. The 85 mm F1.4 is probably of a much higher quality ... and probably also cheaper.
  6. Nostalgia?
  7. Some reasons that I have missed ..
 
An APS-C camera is good enough for almost anyone. Actually, a FourThirds camera and sometimes even a one inch camera is good for many (most?) photographers.

There is nothing with an FF camera that makes you a better photographer - really.

Moreover, it is big and expensive and need bigger and more expensive lenses to get the same FOV.

So, why get it?
  1. The sensor area is more than twice as big. This means, potentially, that you can get much more resolution and gradiation and dynamic range. You can get technically better raw data for your images!
  2. You might have a bunch of FF lenses and no camera body to match.
  3. You might think big is beautiful (i.e. better). Mounting a mega large super tele weighting 6.5 kilo is better balanced with a beefy camera body.
  4. The VF is bigger and/or brighter. Now, FF DSLR in general have chosen brighter. They are only 0.7x magnification. So, bigger you do not get :(
  5. Shallower DOF. A 85 mm F1.4 on an FF is a beautiful portrait lens. For APS-C you will need a 55 mm F1.0. And for FourThirds a 35 mm F0.7. The 85 mm F1.4 is probably of a much higher quality ... and probably also cheaper.
  6. Nostalgia?
  7. Some reasons that I have missed ..
 
True with large sensor = lower viewing magnification = higher perceived DR/smooth graduation and bokeh

this will always be true

we need 8x10 plate cmos :D

The other thing I think is true but cant find corroborative evidence is that the larger the reflecting mirror the greater the graduation in phase so the more positive AF drive should be.

--
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My Photo Stream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awaldram/
1x.com
http://1x.com/artist/awaldram/wall
 
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... I recently wrote to Pentax and asked them if the stabilization function in the camera would work with the samyang 24mm 1.4 on the K1 and they said that they didn't know because they don't test third party lenses. They even told me i could fry the camera if I connect an incorrect lens.

I just asked about this same issue with same lens but for a sony A mount for my A77II camera.

What i have been told is: "A-mount camera does not support input the focal length manually."

In another thread I was recently told that "the beauty" of the pentax incamera stabilization is that I can plug that samyang lens and SR will kick in to provide even lower shutter speeds for low light, that's the whole point.

For some reason, I get the strange feeling that I'm being misinformed here and I might be getting misleading inaccurate information regarding the use of the manual focus samyang lens along with the Pentax SR true function.

I'm not sure how Pentax SR works, and around here there are not that many stores that carry pentax, along with samyang Pentax mount, so is difficult for me to try it myself and see what it actually does at lower shutter speeds. I'm really not sure if any of you here have this samyang lens and can verify that in-camera stabilization does work indeed. Otherwise I feel it will be pointless for me to consider buying the K1 because after all, the SR with the "ANY" lens idea is one of the main features that was drawing me towards a Pentax body.

So, what are you guy's answer to this?
SR will work just fine, you input the focal length when you turn the camera on with the lens attached.

Samyang lens also support aperture coupling, so you can see and set the aperture from the camera, and use all modes, like with a Pentax-A lens.

You also get focus confirmation and catch-in-focus, though (probably) only with the central AF point.

It's understandable a Pentax rep doesn't want to guarantee compatibility with a Samyang lens, but going as far as saying it might fry your camera is going too far. After all, Pentaxes are designed to be compatible with old manual-era lenses.

I'm also looking at the Samyang 24/1.4, though Samyang is disproportionately more expensive here than it is in the US. The US price would be a non issue, but here for a few hundred more I can get the 24-70. A very different lens, but quite a bit more versatile.

I currently shoot a K5 and my manual lenses include a Samyang 8mm fish-eye, pentax A 50/1.2, Pentax 50/2.0, Pentacon 135mm f/2.8 M42, Pentax A* 200mm f/4 macro, Sigma 400mm f/5.6 APO, and several lenses used with an adaptor, including 3 Pentax 67 lenses and a 500mm apo telescope with K-mount adaptor. SR works with all of them.
 
Same for me

Though I should point out your two points are mutually exclusive

You cant have 'aperture Equivalence' and 'extra light gathering'
Thanks for pointing out, yes cant double gain!
Also the required increases in focal length to achieve the same magnification factor almost completely negates ISO gain

i.e if you using 300 F4 on APS-C you will need to use 450 F5.6 on FF
Ah.. didn't think of it in terms of increasing focal length. I applied it in reverse->
If I get a 70-300 f4-5.6 on my FF then the equivalent of it in APSC would be 200 f3.73 which will be quite expensive to get!
Only for those focal lengths where 'equivalent ' apertures are available at same price point will you see the higher SNR a FF lens can deliver.

With the release of the Sigma 18-35 and 35-100 f1.8 the last advantages of FF over aps-C are under threat,
This has got me thinking now :-)
If I went with a 17-50/2.8 from Tamron, I might get the low light for indoors and get the 55-300 Pentax for outdoors. I would then retain my K5II that I like very much :-)

Again, thanks a lot awaldram for this deep technical insight..
 

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