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Om-D em10 Mark ii
- Thread starter Club44
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AFAIK, that is not possible on Olympus bodies, and it is a shame as I'm so used to that approach on DSLRs. However, I think the mindset with an EVF and mirrorless is different. Because you have a live preview and a live histogram, it is possible to do exposure adjustment (either with EC or in manual mode) with a great deal of control. Also, I think the matrix metering is somewhat biased to the AF point (like some DSLRs, but not all).
So, I think it is simply necessary to get used to that approach. Even though I don't have spot metering on a function button, I don't really have much problem capturing images that are well-metered, and that is even though the DR is much less than my DSLR. I guess I can't really complain.
Doug
So, I think it is simply necessary to get used to that approach. Even though I don't have spot metering on a function button, I don't really have much problem capturing images that are well-metered, and that is even though the DR is much less than my DSLR. I guess I can't really complain.
Doug
Ahhhh. Thank you so much, Doug for enlightening me. I am coming from a D700 (Getting too heavy) to M43 and am used to OVF which benefits greatly from a one touch access to spotmetering, but as you mentioned with EVF, one can just as quickly dial in the look one needs via EC or manual mode. Thanks again!!!AFAIK, that is not possible on Olympus bodies, and it is a shame as I'm so used to that approach on DSLRs. However, I think the mindset with an EVF and mirrorless is different. Because you have a live preview and a live histogram, it is possible to do exposure adjustment (either with EC or in manual mode) with a great deal of control. Also, I think the matrix metering is somewhat biased to the AF point (like some DSLRs, but not all).
So, I think it is simply necessary to get used to that approach. Even though I don't have spot metering on a function button, I don't really have much problem capturing images that are well-metered, and that is even though the DR is much less than my DSLR. I guess I can't really complain.
Doug
Only via AEL. You can assign AEL to a function button and choose spot metering for AEL (and keep using another metering type for ordinary non-AEL).
But you probably knew already and it wasn't a satisfactory solution? For me it's good enough.
Lettermanian
Veteran Member
Or, select all the settings you might normally use when shooting with spot metering, set it as a "Myset" (custom setting), and assign a function button to turn that Myset on or off. I haven't done this myself, but I assume it will work.
RedDog Steve
Veteran Member
One of the few things I miss from my film equipment is the spot/average metering function switch on Mamiya.
I came off Nikon DSLRs (D700 for many years, and D600 for the past couple), and always used Spot Metering assigned to the front DoF preview button and then the other front Fn button AE-hold. It works so well when you place the metering spot over a face when you have strong light conditions elsewhere, and it overcomes any matrix metering odd behavior that you can predict. I still miss that ability, but I have to admit that I don't really miss exposures, so I guess I should just get over it.Ahhhh. Thank you so much, Doug for enlightening me. I am coming from a D700 (Getting too heavy) to M43 and am used to OVF which benefits greatly from a one touch access to spotmetering, but as you mentioned with EVF, one can just as quickly dial in the look one needs via EC or manual mode. Thanks again!!!AFAIK, that is not possible on Olympus bodies, and it is a shame as I'm so used to that approach on DSLRs. However, I think the mindset with an EVF and mirrorless is different. Because you have a live preview and a live histogram, it is possible to do exposure adjustment (either with EC or in manual mode) with a great deal of control. Also, I think the matrix metering is somewhat biased to the AF point (like some DSLRs, but not all).
So, I think it is simply necessary to get used to that approach. Even though I don't have spot metering on a function button, I don't really have much problem capturing images that are well-metered, and that is even though the DR is much less than my DSLR. I guess I can't really complain.
Doug
Thank you. No, I didn't know this, can you please tell me how this can be done? Details of setting it up, please.
(See page no. in English pdf manual):
In custom menu E Exp/p/ISO -> AEL Metering: Choose spot metering (p.103)
Button Fn1 is already AEL button if not dedicated to something else (p.47: Locking the exposure (AE Lock)), or if you want AEL somewhere else: Assign AEL to a the button you want (p.64-65: Assigning functions to buttons (Button Function))
Check that custom menu A [AEL/AFL] are set to mode 1 or mode 2 for each focus mode (p.109)
With reservations: I have the E-M5-II. But the workings should definitely be the same.
Thanks a Billion!!!! You are awesome!
OK, I tried this again, and I'm rather amazed that when you use the toggle switch to move between Back Button AF (on Fn1) and AF on shutter half-press, it actually does the right thing! When the switch is down (BBAF), it behaves with matrix metering, but when the lever is up (AF on shutter half-press), it lets Fn1 switch between spot and matrix metering! It is quite brilliant.
I'm amazed at how all these features interact, but I think I'll switch my main settings banks to use this feature.
Thanks!
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You are referring to the em1 right? Since I dont think the em10 ii has that toggle switch?? or am I missing something?
I'm talking about the lever beside/around Fn1 on the E-M5 II. On a body without that lever, I guess the setting for AEL Metering indicated for M-AF or C-AF or S-AF would apply. Since I use the lever to change between M-AF (with AF-ON assigned to Fn1) or S-AF (with AF on shutter half-press), I guess the best of all worlds with the settings described above. It is fantastic!
Yes, I know it is almost impossible to follow these discussions about Olympus menus when the terminology gets so complicated and the logic is so complicated!!!
Club44: You've got it right. E-M10-II does not have this 'toggle switch' called Lever (a different one from the on/off lever) and this Lever has a Lever Function described in the manuals for cameras that have it. The E-M1 has got it (as you suggested), as does the E-M5 II. You can download their pdf manuals, search in them for 'Lever' with your pdf-reader and see for youself. And these levers are possibly described/commented on in the reviews for these 'Lever Function' cameras. Maybe you would like this option in a future camera. Or maybe not.
D Knisely: I guess this means that you at this time miss your Nikons a little bit less (I mean: When using words like 'best' and 'fantastic')? I've used that word fantastic myself when describing the E-M5 II, and more than once. (I'm fishing for Oly praise...)
RedDog Steve
Veteran Member
You should still be able to set AEL metering behaviour without the lever.I'm talking about the lever beside/around Fn1 on the E-M5 II. On a body without that lever, I guess the setting for AEL Metering indicated for M-AF or C-AF or S-AF would apply. Since I use the lever to change between M-AF (with AF-ON assigned to Fn1) or S-AF (with AF on shutter half-press), I guess the best of all worlds with the settings described above. It is fantastic!
Yes, I know it is almost impossible to follow these discussions about Olympus menus when the terminology gets so complicated and the logic is so complicated!!!
On the E-M10 it is Custom menu "E", AEL Metering.
Default is "Auto", and can be set to spot, average, and highlight or shadow.
The setting can also be stored in a MySet.
I'm not clear on what "Auto" is, maybe it follows the global setting ?
"Auto" means that AEL metering will use the same pattern that is currently selected/in use for the full time metering, rather than using the specific one selected for it if spot, average, highlight or shadow is chosen in the menu.You should still be able to set AEL metering behaviour without the lever.I'm talking about the lever beside/around Fn1 on the E-M5 II. On a body without that lever, I guess the setting for AEL Metering indicated for M-AF or C-AF or S-AF would apply. Since I use the lever to change between M-AF (with AF-ON assigned to Fn1) or S-AF (with AF on shutter half-press), I guess the best of all worlds with the settings described above. It is fantastic!
Yes, I know it is almost impossible to follow these discussions about Olympus menus when the terminology gets so complicated and the logic is so complicated!!!
On the E-M10 it is Custom menu "E", AEL Metering.
Default is "Auto", and can be set to spot, average, and highlight or shadow.
The setting can also be stored in a MySet.
I'm not clear on what "Auto" is, maybe it follows the global setting ?
Yes it gets complicated. I am going to study all this in depth. Thank you so so much for the invaluable info.I'm talking about the lever beside/around Fn1 on the E-M5 II. On a body without that lever, I guess the setting for AEL Metering indicated for M-AF or C-AF or S-AF would apply. Since I use the lever to change between M-AF (with AF-ON assigned to Fn1) or S-AF (with AF on shutter half-press), I guess the best of all worlds with the settings described above. It is fantastic!
Yes, I know it is almost impossible to follow these discussions about Olympus menus when the terminology gets so complicated and the logic is so complicated!!!
Gintaras B.
Veteran Member
Just wonder what you can do with a camera instead asking what camera can do for you.
I'm on the learning curve, so, I would never buy newest model. If you've "squeezed" everything from your older camera - time to go to newer model.
I'm always happy with camera/lense I have and I'm trying to learn to get better photos with. instead asking "what camera could make me get better photos"
Best camera - that has a "Masterpiece" button - I tell always to wannabees photographers.
I'm very amateur and was always satisfied with cameras I had or have. And my participation in challenges - quite good for me - an average.
LOL! Absolutely right.
I just bought the EM10 ii last week and am astonished at the level of customization it provides!
I am going to hold on to my D700 for those special times when I can afford the luxury of actually deal with the size and weight. The em10 will be my every day camera and for vacations. I am not a Pro.
I figured out how to assign SPOT to the AEL and Fn1 . So now when I click Fn1 , it automaticallt spot meters and locks! Which is exactly what I was after. With the D700 it was a 2 button operation (1 to activate spot and another to lock it).
I was patiently waiting for Nikon (waited 2 years) to produce a DX or M43 Mirrorless body but when I the DL series was announced I lost patience and pulled the trigger on the em10ii. and BOY AM I GLAD I DID!
I got the kit lens with the em10ii.
Now all I need is a 35mm ish (FF equivalent) fast prime. I am torn between the Oly 17mm f1.7 and the Pany 20mm f1.8.
Can anyone here help me with the decision?
Thanks
Also check out the remarkable Panasonic/Leica 15mm f/1.7. It is in a class by itself, and a much better alternative to a 35mm equivalent for me. Optically, it is stellar. I tried the Panasonic 20mm, and it is optically OK for a small cheap lens, but 40mm equivalent is odd to me. The Olympus 17/1.8 does not generally review as strongly as the other Olympus f/1.8 primes (like the 45 or 75, which I have). The same it true for the Olympus 25/1.8; other alternatives seem to be better or at least worth considering.
But, I can't recommend the Panasonic 15/1.7 highly enough, and there are a lot of other threads that reflect this viewpoint.
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