Adios Canon. Hola Nikon. Lens recommendations?

That would explain why I never seen banding before. I don't shoot past 3200 ISO.

As far as smoothness of the zoom ring my are very smooth but I also use all 3 lenses a lot.
 
Great job walking with that camera! And excellent photos!!

I find it hard to manage one-day hiking trips with my D7100 and 24-85 VR. I know that D800 is significantly heavier than the D7100.

Good job.
 
Of all the recommendations on this thread, the Nikon 35mm and 85mm F/1.8 lenses are my choice for FF camera.

I use 50/1.8 for portraits on D7100 but I don't like the 50mm focal length on FF for my taste. If adding a wide-angle, I would suggest the 20/1.8 over 28/1.8.

I do use Tamron 70-200/2.8 VC. Its IQ is excellent... on par with Nikon if not better, and a lot more affordable. When it comes to AF speed, it is not the best. My experience is with D7100 and I don't know about D750.

These should cover most situations that you mentioned:

20/1.8

35/1.8

85/1.8

Nikon 70-200/F4 or Tamron 70-200/F2.8

Good luck.
 
Albert Silver said:
My home is not small, but I cannot imagine a 70-200 being the ideal lens indoor, since it isn't a hangar, and the space is all broken up into rooms. :-)
I tried it lately, it does work. But of course this kind of a lens is bought for other stuff, too. Next summer my boy is going to school, aka larger indoor rooms where plays and sports happen.
Member said:
Have you considered a few good primes instead for indoors? Only you would know what focal length fits, but do remember you can crop if the framing is not perfect. Indoors it is unlikely you would be cropping more than 50% even in a worst-case scenario. A good 35 or 50 should do the trick I would imagine.
Sure, I am using a 50/1.4G that I bought used for a price in between a new 50/1.8G and 50/1.4G. I am contemplating getting a 85/1.8G, but it's likely better to put that money into a 70-200/2.8 instead.

I still own my Olympus E-M5 + 45/1.8, too. And even its 90/3.6 equivalent DoF can be too shallow to catch them moving and leaves little room to put more than one in a shot without stopping down further. Fortunately they keep still sometimes...



But then they often don't even when the feet are not moving. Then a bit of Photoshop's anti lens-blur sharpening might be needed to rescue a 1/200s shot.



Yes, the 24 mp sensor of the D750 allows for quite some cropping, too. Which also helps with stuff like minimum focus distance and allowing the kids some breathing room when you don't have a longer lens attached.



The TTL-BL flash mode of the built-in flash is great for filling about only one stop of flash on top of the ambient. Unfortunately I cannot get my SB-700 to behave anywhere near the same (especially in combination with exposure compensation control).

--
Red flash eyes save lives and eye-sight!
Retinoblastoma - Wikipedia
 
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My home is not small, but I cannot imagine a 70-200 being the ideal lens indoor, since it isn't a hangar, and the space is all broken up into rooms. :-)
I tried it lately, it does work. But of course this kind of a lens is bought for other stuff, too. Next summer my boy is going to school, aka larger indoor rooms where plays and sports happen.
Have you considered a few good primes instead for indoors? Only you would know what focal length fits, but do remember you can crop if the framing is not perfect. Indoors it is unlikely you would be cropping more than 50% even in a worst-case scenario. A good 35 or 50 should do the trick I would imagine.
Sure, I am using a 50/1.4G that I bought used for a price in between a new 50/1.8G and 50/1.4G. I am contemplating getting a 85/1.8G, but it's likely better to put that money into a 70-200/2.8 instead.

I still own my Olympus E-M5 + 45/1.8, too. And even its 90/3.6 equivalent DoF can be too shallow to catch them moving and leaves little room to put more than one in a shot without stopping down further. Fortunately they keep still sometimes...



But then they often don't even when the feet are not moving. Then a bit of Photoshop's anti lens-blur sharpening might be needed to rescue a 1/200s shot.



Yes, the 24 mp sensor of the D750 allows for quite some cropping, too. Which also helps with stuff like minimum focus distance and allowing the kids some breathing room when you don't have a longer lens attached.

Yes, I do sympathize. I just acquired a Tamron 35 f/1.8, and while I am not struggling with the idea of 'zooming with my feet', sometimes my feet are just not fast enough, and cropping is the only recourse I have.

(Beautiful children BTW)
 
Of all the recommendations on this thread, the Nikon 35mm and 85mm F/1.8 lenses are my choice for FF camera.

I use 50/1.8 for portraits on D7100 but I don't like the 50mm focal length on FF for my taste. If adding a wide-angle, I would suggest the 20/1.8 over 28/1.8.

I do use Tamron 70-200/2.8 VC. Its IQ is excellent... on par with Nikon if not better, and a lot more affordable. When it comes to AF speed, it is not the best. My experience is with D7100 and I don't know about D750.
I use the Tamron 70-200 on a D300 and a D700, and the AF speed is just fine, for me. I shoot fast-moving sports, like bicycle racing and football, and it's seldom missed anything, even when the subject is coming right at me. Indeed, when I tried the Tamron and the Nikkor 70-200 f4 at the store, I found the Tamron faster and more accurate, with less hunting, which was one of the reasons I bought it over the Nikkor.
These should cover most situations that you mentioned:

20/1.8

35/1.8

85/1.8

Nikon 70-200/F4 or Tamron 70-200/F2.8

Good luck.
Sam
 
Thanks for the input Sam.

It never bothered me because I don't shoot really fast action, but your statement makes me curious.

I'll try my Tamron 70-200/2.8 on my friend's D750. That way I can decide if the Tamron needs to go for repair (still lot of warranty left) or my D7100 (out of warranty long time ago).

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the input Sam.

It never bothered me because I don't shoot really fast action, but your statement makes me curious.

I'll try my Tamron 70-200/2.8 on my friend's D750. That way I can decide if the Tamron needs to go for repair (still lot of warranty left) or my D7100 (out of warranty long time ago).

Thanks.
Satyaa,

You're quite welcome! Just to provide an example or two, these were taken on the 15th at a high school mountain bike race, which I shoot every year.



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Quite often, I use this lens for these events, as well as for some college football games.

Sam

--
Sam B.
D200, 16-85mm, 35-135mm, Sigma 10-20 f3.5 N8008s, Gitzo 2531, Induro DM-01 ballhead
Certified Texas Master Naturalist
Proud WSSA Member #260!
www.flickr.com/photos/sibeardjr
www.doormouse-editions.com
 
I also use this lens, primarily for horseback riding and never have banding issues. I love it. Samples:





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my dogs for good measure.
my dogs for good measure.



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Nice photos, Sam and Phantom.

I took out my Tamron 70-200/2.8 this afternoon and tried again on my D7100... just to get a sampling of what the success rate would be.

It is not that I got any out of focus photos or bad shots. All the shots I got were very good.

The problem was how many I did not get. Very often, the camera won't expose the shot when it thinks that there is no focus. When that happens, I don't see the solid white dot in the left bottom corner of the viewfinder. The left/right triangles around it keep flickering and sometimes the AE-F/L appears there.

That's why I say that its "AF speed is not the best". Once it nails focus, there is no complaints about the results.

I do not have the same issue with 85mm/F1.8. I tried in outdoor daylight and well-lit indoor conditions. My Sigma 18-35/1.8 nailed focus quickly under the same conditions.

Definitely something to test on one or two other cameras and then send it to Tamron for a check-up.

Thanks.
 
Satyaa,

Indeed, I would check on at least one other camera first, and if possible, on something a bit higher up Nikon's chain of cameras, i.e., a D300, D700, D8x0, or similar. There may be an issue with the D7100 and this lens that I'm not aware of.

Good luck, and keep us informed,

Sam
 
I've been a hobbyist photographer for the last 30 years of my life. Started out with a 35mm SLR when I was 14 years old and I was hooked. Switched to digital with the Canon 10D and I'm currently using an SL1.

I felt sure my next camera would be a mirrorless (Fuji XT-1 or XT-2 later in the year) but after doing countless hours of research, I made an about-turn and bought a new Nikon D750 ($1299 on ebay) this morning. I've read so many amazing reviews of this camera, I just could not refuse it at that price.
$1299 sounds grey market by a mile. I'd be sure if it even matters to you you are getting a Nikon USA product. If it makes no difference then sure good deal.
I'll be selling all my Canon gear - an SL1, 100mm macro, 50mm 1.4, 17-55mm f/2.8, 55-250mm and a few other bits and pieces.

Which D750 lenses would you recommend for:

- portraits
- fast-moving kids and pets in and around the home
- landscape
- street photography
To be honest the Fuji XT-1 could have easily met these needs and I shoot both the D750 and XT-1. The D750 is mainly for extensive TTL flash needs and accessories that Fuji does not have.
I want to get back to using more primes than zooms. I definitely want a 35mm in my arsenal.
Really looking forward to getting back to full-frame. I miss my old 35mm Fujica STX-1n.
Fuji has amazing Prime lenses all of them and now with the rebate is the perfect time to get into Fuji X
I won't be buying them all at once. I want to start out with just one prime for at least a few months and really get to know the camera well. Which prime should it be?

Thanks for your help.
The D750 is to make money with photography or I never would have sold several Fuji X lenses to defray the cost of Nikon. I had 6 Fuji X lenses and kept the 16-55 mm 2.8. Either way Fuji X still has lens options for the APS-C sensor that Nikon does not even offer, namely F 2.8 zooms and Fuji glass in the crop sensor I would say better than Nikon for apples to apples.

As long as you think you spent your money the best way and works for you it is the right choice, but shooting Nikon, Fuji X and even Panasonic micro 4/3's that in some performance AF ways and video for the moment is better than Fuji, Fuji still has a wow factor for a hands on photographer.

Shooting Fuji X is like shooting a manual film camera in a way I see even more creative than using my D750. My shooting and lighting methods are the same across systems.

Just keep in mind there are only so many times you can shoot the same subject matter before it gets boring. Fuji X is the most portable and versatile and I know 100% I will leave my D750 home in a heartbeat and travel with the Fuji X, so worth it! No problem leaving Nikon at home in part to size, weight bulk for hobby and fun photography. If I am working then sure I take my DSLR kit etc...

If Fuji can get the flash technology and external battery power and some minor improvements for critical AF like shooting at wedding speed, and quick candids at events etc then I will be more than happy to dump out of Nikon faster than you can say mirrorless killed the DSLR.
 
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Kids move fast, the Nikon primes usually focus slowly; a 24-70 is better on that
Get a 50mm f/1.4. That has been the standard 35mm lens for at least 60 years. That part is easy. The hard part is deciding whether to get the:
  • Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D @ $269 [B&H]
  • Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G @ $447 [B&H] [only AF with screw-drive bodies]
  • Sigma 50mm f/1.4 HSM Art @ $949 [B&H]
  • Zeiss 55mm f/1.4 Otus @ $3990 [B&H] [manual focus]
The Nikkor D or the Sigma Art would be my choices.
The 1.8g is faster with focus and sharper. Why bother with a 2.5 times more expensive 1.4g? (I own it [the 1.4g], and probably wouldn't buy it again if both g's were available at time of purchase).
 
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I've been a hobbyist photographer for the last 30 years of my life. Started out with a 35mm SLR when I was 14 years old and I was hooked. Switched to digital with the Canon 10D and I'm currently using an SL1.

I felt sure my next camera would be a mirrorless (Fuji XT-1 or XT-2 later in the year) but after doing countless hours of research, I made an about-turn and bought a new Nikon D750 ($1299 on ebay) this morning. I've read so many amazing reviews of this camera, I just could not refuse it at that price.

I'll be selling all my Canon gear - an SL1, 100mm macro, 50mm 1.4, 17-55mm f/2.8, 55-250mm and a few other bits and pieces.

Which D750 lenses would you recommend for:

- portraits
- fast-moving kids and pets in and around the home
- landscape
- street photography

I want to get back to using more primes than zooms. I definitely want a 35mm in my arsenal.
Really looking forward to getting back to full-frame. I miss my old 35mm Fujica STX-1n.

I won't be buying them all at once. I want to start out with just one prime for at least a few months and really get to know the camera well. Which prime should it be?

Thanks for your help.
i'm a bit late here but find it interesting the majority seems to push towards 50mm. there is a strong bias towards 50mm vs 35mm in photography in general imo and for good reason but the choice is radically different and should be yours. there are pros & cons going towards either, regardless of what lens brand, and aperture speed you'll select. 35mm is certainly the most versatile choice but 50mm especially at 1.4 is imo a whole other universe as far as isolation & light/speed goes. it's basically a more "creative" lens but demands much further control/skill. for street photography it's kind of ideal because you can compose at a much further distance then 35mm, allowing you to be stealth/remote from your subject. But i know pros that prefer 35mm because they have no issue getting in your face with the subject and therefore enjoy the versatility of selecting to be either close or further away. it really depends on you're style of shooting. 50mm definitely has the advantage for portraits (portrait pros will even often suggest 85mm) and street photog if you're into stealthy/remote shooting situations. but for landscape/fast moving kids 35mm will allow much better flexibility. In the end if you got a DSLR it's to have imo several lens choices. so either go for a zoom that covers both ranges or get a prime combo of either 28/35-50mm or 35/50-85mm.
 
Sooo... after much deliberation I got the Nikon 85mm f/1.8G. Haven't had a chance to play with it much yet, but did get a few cute photos today of my 7-month old son. I'm still learning the camera (and will be for a while.... tough (and often frustrating) switch from such a long time with Canon!!). But I was pretty happy with these shots (straight out of the camera, captured in jpg). The camera and lens are both amazing pieces of equipment - I just have a lot of learning to do!



7 months old. First time on a swing.  He had a blast!
7 months old. First time on a swing. He had a blast!



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Staring contest.  He won.
Staring contest. He won.



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sure what to make of your new camera, Dad!
 
Your new camera and lens are back-focusing. Look closely and you will see in 3-of-4 shots that the eyes are not in sharp focus...but things beyond the eyes are in focus. The other shot appears blurred?
 
Your new camera and lens are back-focusing. Look closely and you will see in 3-of-4 shots that the eyes are not in sharp focus...but things beyond the eyes are in focus. The other shot appears blurred?
I don't see it.
 
Really? There is only one stationary shot and to me, that looks in focus. The others are on a swing and at the bottom of a slide. He was moving a million miles a minute and I was pretty happy to get some pretty sharp shots. Not perfect I agree, but I really can't blame the equipment. Like I said, I've been using Canon all my life and I feel like a newbie with a Nikon having just taken a few hundred shots so far. Anyway, thanks for your input.
 
Really? There is only one stationary shot and to me, that looks in focus. The others are on a swing and at the bottom of a slide. He was moving a million miles a minute
It's not the speed that hurts af accuracy in this case. It's the change of speed (acceleration or deceleration). The AF focusing system assume constant subject speed to predict where the subject will be when the shutter is opened. The prediction is required due to the delay because of moving the mirror etc.
 

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