If the image circle is too small then you have 2 options with IBIS, have a sharp center and blurry out of focus edges or have the entire image blurry and out of focus, I know what I would choose. What would you choose??
This is the logical fallacy known as the false dilemma.
Exactly
There are other options to have sharp images and clearly many of us aren't challenged with achieving them. With the high ISO capability of these cameras, fast lenses, and good form, I am just not losing images to camera shake. There are also tripods, monopods, and flashes. It is a non-issue for me. I realize that others may have different shooting situations, but don't assume it is an issue for everyone. I rarely encounter a situation where I can't get a decent exposure.
Rich
--
"I would be an historian as Herodotus was." -Charles Olson
http://photos.herodot.us
why would we want IBIS ? to be able to shoot handheld at VERY low shutter speeds right?
OK
how can we achieve that?
1) use aperture and ISO to have a reasonable shutter speed
2) same with additional help from IS if glass is long
3) same as 1 or 2 with additional help from IBIS.
The more help the better we could think.
STEP back
now it gets interesting
There are two types of scenes (roughly)
A: scenes with motion (that we want to freeze)
B: scenes without motion (that we want to freeze)
So for TYPE A:
in my experience most motion needs shutter speeds faster than ( lets be conservative) 1/30th of a second.
IBIS and IS do not help to reduce shutter speeds. so we need iso and aperture to get the minimal required shutter speed. we only need some extra stabilization if the focal length is larger than lets say 1.5 than the inverse shutter speed we need to stop the motion ( so for a 400 mm lens lets say between 1/30th and 1/600th of a second) to stop motion and be able to shoot handheld. for a motion stopping slow shutter speed faster than 1/30th we need roughly 4 stops of help at the max. from OIS or IS for 400mm lens.
for shorter lenses the help we need quickly reduces ( 200 mm only 3 stops, 100 mm maybe 2)
and for standard lenses and wide-angle lenses we do not really need help when shooting motion.
AND THIS is very very slow moving objects!!! for faster moving objects we do need less help from OIS or IBIS, but more from ISO and aperture!!!!
For the longer lenses at least unto 400mm we have a good solution in the form of OIS so in this case do not need an additional IBIS
For situations that we can not crank up the iso enough or open up the aperture further we have NO solution but to buy a faster lens or buy a camera with better high ISO performance.
now type B: Scenes without motion:
All the static situations we would be able to shoot motion according to scene A are no problem without IBIS.
What remains are STATIC situations that are to dark to be shot with a shutter speed faster than 1/(1.5*focal length) with 1/30th of a second with the given camera (+ maybe IS).
how can we solve this problem:
three solutions:
S1:buy a similar ( or better) camera with IBIS
S2: invest in faster lenses ( if available)
S3:buy a camera with higher ISO performance ( if available)
WHAT would help me best?
S1: will help me with certain static situations
S2: will help me certain static situations AND with movement ( however there is a limit to the speed of lenses ( at least with most budgets, and weight consideration etc.)
S3:will help me in ALL situations
Oh well actually the combination of three, off course will push it the furthest.
Looking at this, I think handheld shooters are helped most effectively if Fuji (or whatever sensor/camera maker) invests in good quality high ISO performance as it will solve more handheld issues then IBIS wil ever do. and looking at what the d810's and a7s II 's of this world can deliver ISO wise i cannot imagine i would ABSOLUTLY NEED IBIS in a body very often.
(Have been shooting a triathlon during the night , fellow photographers were able to stop motion ( cyclists) with long glass with their d810's and a7s' in moonlight no help from IBIS there.)
IMHO the situations that IBIS seriously can help are the situations that I would personally already have grabbed a tripod, monopod, beanbag or something like that. because it is either static content that is not going anywhere and I have all the time or the lens is so long that i find it to heavy to shoot handheld.
Ok what do i want to say with this lengthy post?
Can IBIS be useful? yes certainly
Can it work perfectly? yes sure, that has been proven by several successful camera's
does IBIS degrade image quality? In general, not necessarily. for X mount yes (according to Fuji)
But if Fuji (or any camera maker) needs to invest in ISO and IBIS, what will bring most value to me ( and I think most shooters)? That is clearly ISO , as that solves the problems that IBIS also solves.
the same if i spend my money on gear. I rather pay extra for ISO then for IBIS, because ISO solves the problems IBIS solves and more.
So for me I would rather not have Fuji spend their money on IBIS.
Would i NOT buy a camera because it has IBIS, no of course not (unless i can't switch it off when i think needed)
Kees