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Don't You think E-PL5 need some constant negative exposure compensation?
- Thread starter Oleksak
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- olympus pen e-pl5
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OrdinarilyInordinate
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What JPEG settings are you using? iEnhance gives a bit brighter results. What metering mode are you using? . If spot or center and not average (ESP) , there can easily be overexposure. Maybe you accidentally turned on hi-key metering? Check the metering first, then color settings.
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I don't use it
ESP
No spot, no centered
I You mean spot metering mode marked HI - No
OrdinarilyInordinate
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Hmm! How about gradation and highlights/shadows settings?
Are you using a manual mode? Perhaps shutter speed us too slow for the aperture and iso setting, or something like that? Would it still overexpose in P mode with auto ISO?
Are you using a manual mode? Perhaps shutter speed us too slow for the aperture and iso setting, or something like that? Would it still overexpose in P mode with auto ISO?
Normal
default setting
No. Aperture priority mainly
It's hardly possible if exposition works correctly. But I assume this is the point.
did not test, but it is an idea
traveler_101
Senior Member
-.3 is my standard on e-p5
am I not alone?
aponce
Active member
I use -. 3 to -. 7 on both my M10, & P3. I base it on what I see in the histogram.
addlightness
Senior Member
-0.7 on my EM10 for outdoor; -1.0 to -1.3 indoor depending on lighting.
Interestingly, it's -0.3 on my GM1.
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RedDog Steve
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Guy Parsons
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By contrast I found that the Pens were the first cameras where I dd not need to have a constant -0.3 EV correction, that goes for E-PL1 x 2, E-P3, E-PL5 x 2, E-P5 x 2. So all 7 bodies behave much the same and do not need EV correction for most shots. Occasionally of course some correction is needed but that is the exception. Most times I just shoot as-is and rarely need to twiddle correction.
In my case blinkies, settings at 0,255 and when the live view blinks a bit, the review image blinks less and the raw file has no overloaded channels. The jpeg is Natural, Saturation, Contrast and Sharpness all at -1 and gradation normal to get those blinkie results.
I found that Silkypix V5 is a good tool to judge exposure as it can test the image and apply the needed EV to fix the white as white, so in the early days I used it a lot to check what the camera was doing. Even at default camera settings it often seemed to need a little more exposure, often needing plus 0.3 and even up to plus 1.0 at times. So for my use, if anything, the exposure of those cameras was being a little safe, I could probably set plus 0.3 EV as permanent offset and get some better results.
Slight pause........ just now I ran 10 random raw files from my E-P5 that were just holiday snaps taken at default, inside/outside, totally random stuff, and the list of EV correction that Silkypix found was all plus with numbers of 0.32, 0.38, 1.05, 0.32, 0.50, 0.41, 0.73, 0.08, 0.61, 0.27.
The Silkypix help file says this about that tool...
Exposure bias can be performed automatically by clicking the Automatic exposure bias button.
The algorithm for automatic exposure bias in SILKYPIX® detects an object and analyzes its colors in detail. While restricting brightness and washed-out colors, it performs strong that employs the best of our image processing technology in order to utilize the ability to reproduce colors on your monitor or printer.
This is a quick way to getting the perfect exposure for your images, even if you underexpose your pictures a little. Slight underexposure is typical for RAW photography, as it prevents the highlight areas from loosing structure.
This feature helps reduce time when adjusting development parameters.
OK, a bit Japanese but you get the message that it is a more accurate analysis of the image to check exposure.
That all seems to me that I could safely set PLUS 0.3 EV for my "average" raw file and be happy.
If you really find that you mostly need -0.3EV then set that offset in the custom menus so you don't need to manage it during the shot.
Regards..... Guy
There said that "...slight underexposure is better...", but You set compensation to PLUS. I'm confused... to have snap underexposed mean to set compensation in MINUS. Where I'm wrong?
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Guy Parsons
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So far I have never set the Pens to default PLUS, though it is a future possibility due to that Silkypix analysis above.
I leave them as-is and 90% of the time the regular ESP metering of most situations gives me some blinkies on some highlights. The jpeg result as I review it has a few less blinkies, then when I check the raw file with RawDigger then I see that there are no blown channels. All is good.
So the camera as-is, even though it indicates over-exposure, in truth in the raw file is basically a bit under-exposed.
If using only the jpeg, then yes, obey the blinkies and set the histogram/blinkie indication limits until you get reliability, and then shot by shot adjust exposure compensation to get the result you need. Eventually maybe settling on a "safe" constant exposure compensation offset to be placed in the Custom Menu settings.
If using the raw file then ignore all that and live with a few blinkies in the reviewed jpeg (never shoot raw file only, always raw+jpeg to get a more reliable review) and the raw conversion turns out fine.
The camera seems to do its own version of MINUS in that the raw file is safe though the jpeg may indicate blinkies. So out of the box default settings are designed to be safe for the average shot.
Correct exposure was very important with the 12MP sensor as that had terrible noise issues and under-exposing meant that shadow recovery made the image very noisy. The Sony 16MP sensor is way less noisy (Exmor technology has some noise reduction on the sensor before it creates the raw file) so heavy under-exposure can be recovered very nicely with way less noise problem than the old Panasonic 12MP sensor.
The end result is yes, with the 16MP Sony sensor it is OK to under-expose if worried and then set the brightness that you need later in post process.
If careful, then a few blinkies on insignificant bits of the image are OK as the raw file usually has that information intact. Even then the jpeg result from the camera is usually OK as well.
And naturally, use the raw file always for best results as that has a heck of a lot more information (for adjustment or recovery) in it than the jpeg.
I'm an advocate of blinkies as they tell you WHERE the problem may be so you can ignore it or adjust to taste. The histogram tells you that there is a problem but you never know where that problem is and if it is important or not.
In my case I worry less when shooting and trust the camera, so usually a grab shot without noticing what is happening on the LCD turns out perfectly OK. I use the LCD so I'm more involved with the scene I see live than when using the viewfinder where your concentration is stuck with only the viewfinder screen all the icons and numbers that may be there.
Funny but the difficulty of seeing the LCD clearly in some light conditions is actually an aid to photography as then I just shoot more and fuss less.
Regards....... Guy
Solution
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
The real answer is to find what works for you by experimenting and testing, but learning what others do may help a little.
Regards........ Guy
That makes sense, because I only shoot JPEG, and the slight negative exposure works well for me. I recently purchased a copy of Paintshop Pro, which came bundled with the Perfectly clear Plugin. Perfectly Clear gives all my JPEGs the final "pop," and saves a lot of time.
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