The camera was in wide/tracking AF mode. Used for tracking moving subjects.
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Fuji JPEG without details and smeary gras
- Thread starter fujiXShooter
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"The camera was in wide/tracking AF mode. Used for tracking moving subjects."
Thanks. In that mode the camera should have release priority. So if you just mash down on the shutter the camera will fire no matter if it thinks it is focused or not.
Just reading up on the XT10 but it sounds like in Wide mode with continuous AF the camera is using the entire screen to determine what to focus on. It isn't using the focus box and it is using contrast detect focus, not the centralized PD AF sensors.
As you know... with any contrast detect AF system in continuous autofocus the camera will really never stop trying to focus. It can't directly tell if it is in focus or not, it has to infer that based on the contrast at the point it is focusing on. It tries to achieve the maximum contrast at that point.. and the way to do that is by dithering focus back and forth to see where the maximum is. In AF-S mode it stops when it finds maximum. In AF-C it will keep dithering to see if the focus is changing. IME contrast detect continuous AF is lousy for this reason, it never truely locks on and keeps trying to verify itself.
This is vastly different then AF-C on a DSLR. In AF-C in a phase detect system the AF system knows directly if the camera is focused or not. In AF-C the AF will stop moving the lens the instant it has detected in focus and it won't try changing focus until you move the camera or the subject moves. I leave my D700 in AF-C (activated by AF ON, not shutter) always. There is no reason not to do it this was, it just works.
IME with CD AF-C you can't shoot the same way, one needs to use AF-S for static objects and I used AF-S for moving as well as my keepers were higher due to the dithering of AF-C.
I don't have any experience of how effectively something like the XT10s Zone AF-C mode works where there are PD sensor along with the CD AF system.
Shawn
Thanks. In that mode the camera should have release priority. So if you just mash down on the shutter the camera will fire no matter if it thinks it is focused or not.
Just reading up on the XT10 but it sounds like in Wide mode with continuous AF the camera is using the entire screen to determine what to focus on. It isn't using the focus box and it is using contrast detect focus, not the centralized PD AF sensors.
As you know... with any contrast detect AF system in continuous autofocus the camera will really never stop trying to focus. It can't directly tell if it is in focus or not, it has to infer that based on the contrast at the point it is focusing on. It tries to achieve the maximum contrast at that point.. and the way to do that is by dithering focus back and forth to see where the maximum is. In AF-S mode it stops when it finds maximum. In AF-C it will keep dithering to see if the focus is changing. IME contrast detect continuous AF is lousy for this reason, it never truely locks on and keeps trying to verify itself.
This is vastly different then AF-C on a DSLR. In AF-C in a phase detect system the AF system knows directly if the camera is focused or not. In AF-C the AF will stop moving the lens the instant it has detected in focus and it won't try changing focus until you move the camera or the subject moves. I leave my D700 in AF-C (activated by AF ON, not shutter) always. There is no reason not to do it this was, it just works.
IME with CD AF-C you can't shoot the same way, one needs to use AF-S for static objects and I used AF-S for moving as well as my keepers were higher due to the dithering of AF-C.
I don't have any experience of how effectively something like the XT10s Zone AF-C mode works where there are PD sensor along with the CD AF system.
Shawn
Jerry-astro
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OK, but this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the issue that the OP raised.Stupid foliage problem...this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it doesgoogle it.
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
--
www.darngoodphotos.com
I believe this is what a properly focused image should look like.OK, but this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the issue that the OP raised.Stupid foliage problem...this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it does
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
--
www.darngoodphotos.com
DarnGoodPhotos
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No, but it is relevant to RusYus' comment.OK, but this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the issue that the OP raised.Stupid foliage problem...this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it does
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
--
www.darngoodphotos.com
Jerry-astro
Forum Pro
Which, unfortunately, was completely offbase with respect to the issue raised by the OP in this thread. It's simply a case of the OP not using the correct AF mode. I guess I had trouble seeing any good reason to raise the mushy foliage issue for the 10,000th time, that's all.No, but it is relevant to RusYus' commentOK, but this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the issue that the OP raised.Stupid foliage problem...this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it does
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
DarnGoodPhotos
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Well that's why I quoted RusYus, not the OP.Which, unfortunately, was completely offbase with respect to the issue raised by the OP in this thread. It's simply a case of the OP not using the correct AF mode. I guess I had trouble seeing any good reason to raise the mushy foliage issue for the 10,000th time, that's all.No, but it is relevant to RusYus' commentOK, but this has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the issue that the OP raised.Stupid foliage problem...this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it does
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
--
www.darngoodphotos.com
fujiXShooter
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I looked at the camera for the focus point.
Thank you, I will try shooting landscapes with single point focus mode hoping to get better results.
Thank you, I will try shooting landscapes with single point focus mode hoping to get better results.
fujiXShooter
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Thanks, I will try to use single point AF mode in situations like this, hope this will help.
fujiXShooter
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I do not see serious foliage problem here...it is a quite sharp and detailed image
I agree that is a very sharp and detailed image and an example of what a properly focused landscape should look like.
fujiXShooter
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So that was my fault, thank you. I will try using the right focus mode for the appropriate situation.
The consensus seems to be wrong AF mode. But not necessarily your fault. It depends on how the camera was set into that mode. Or what is the default AF mode in default settings for that particular camera?
britcam
Senior Member
How can it be "not necessarily your fault" ?? Is Fuji imposing default settings on us?
You want to take a picture of a field with trees and a fence - to produce an acceptable picture with sharpness where you want it, you need to select single AF mode, and focus on your target.
Simple as that ..
It could help to not use the 18-55 as well. ;-)
I know some people have an issue with this statement but I stopped using the 18-55 after a while since it showed strange AF behavior now and then. It was perfectly fine most of the time but especially in landscape shooting I had those effects now and then. At the wide end there is a strong field cuverture as well so that in some cases you nail the focus but the corners are mushy.
Add to the AF that now and then you get a total or kind of half image blur with IS turned on and you have a lens which you start to take the same picture several times "just in case".
I know a lot of people say they never had these issues but I had, all my 4 samples of the 18-55 had and all Fujis in my photo group have it with their 18-55's. For me that was reason enough to look for a solution if not a workaround.
Funny thing is, as soon as you start to use something like 14+35 you will not have those irregularities except for when YOU get it wrong.
Yes, and then there is this foilage thing going on with Fuji but that is not what you encountered here and that is a fruitless discussion anyway and actually it does not matter in many cases anyway.
I know some people have an issue with this statement but I stopped using the 18-55 after a while since it showed strange AF behavior now and then. It was perfectly fine most of the time but especially in landscape shooting I had those effects now and then. At the wide end there is a strong field cuverture as well so that in some cases you nail the focus but the corners are mushy.
Add to the AF that now and then you get a total or kind of half image blur with IS turned on and you have a lens which you start to take the same picture several times "just in case".
I know a lot of people say they never had these issues but I had, all my 4 samples of the 18-55 had and all Fujis in my photo group have it with their 18-55's. For me that was reason enough to look for a solution if not a workaround.
Funny thing is, as soon as you start to use something like 14+35 you will not have those irregularities except for when YOU get it wrong.
Yes, and then there is this foilage thing going on with Fuji but that is not what you encountered here and that is a fruitless discussion anyway and actually it does not matter in many cases anyway.
fujiXShooter
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I also have the XF 35 and it produces good images almost all the time.
Using the 18-55 is sometimes not avoidable.
But it sounds not so good to hear that is sometimes not the fault of the photographer but the lens.
Using the 18-55 is sometimes not avoidable.
But it sounds not so good to hear that is sometimes not the fault of the photographer but the lens.
You sound like an experienced photographer who knows instinctively what settings to use. The op admits in his/her first post they just bought the camera and is shooting with the kit lens.
Some cameras are set up at default settings which include 'advanced intelligent modes' which are supposed to benefit inexperienced users.
In recent years my cameras from sony, Nikon & Panasonic had their default AF set to a multi AF area where the camera analyses the scene and decides what to focus on.
Here is a recent example from Sony multi AF. I focused, refocused and refocused. Each time the camera focused on the background with little green rectangles showing where the camera had chosen to focus. I took the shot.
Then dug into the menu system, changed the focus to single point and focused where I wanted to focus. And.
In my very first reply in this thread I mentioned that I also get such outliers with my 18-55mm lens, albeit very rarely.
I wouldn't sweat it so much. It is not uncommon to have high-tech equipment that occasionally is a bit unruly. Compare with what else the system can do for you. The instances where things randomly go wrong are really very rare, and those that are systematically problematic one can usually work around.
Lmendy
Leading Member
I am a jpeg shooter. I dial up sharpness to +1 and sometimes +2. I use Topaz Clarity. There are some great pre sets in the program that really help landscape images for viewing on the internet. I recommend that you try a 30 day trial at Topaz. You might be very pleased.this is very strange that nobody mentioned it yet. this is x-trans sensor 'foliage' problem.
i know people here will ridicule me for saying it exists, but it does
people say that if you process RAW in certain converters you don't see it, but if you are a JPG shooter like i am - you are stuck with it. The good news is that on a print it's not that obvious.
fujiXShooter
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Thanks, I have heard of Topaz and will try it.
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