How significant is going FX from a DX?

I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
Depends. What was the iso used?
 
OK it's 1/3200 sec (the EXIF said 1/10000) still higher than necessary. You could have reduced it to 1/800 and lowered iso by 2 stops for better results. 1/3200 sec was more than necessary.
 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
Depends.
No, it does not. It would certainly be much better.
What was the iso used?
That was a D7100 at iso 250.

The lens was 70-200 f/4 with a 1.4tc - i.e. shot wide open.
 
OK it's 1/3200 sec (the EXIF said 1/10000) still higher than necessary. You could have reduced it to 1/800
Sure I could have, but it would end up quite blurry.
and lowered iso by 2 stops for better results. 1/3200 sec was more than necessary.
iso was 250, not much to be had there. 3200 was more than necessary, but slower than 2000 would be too slow.

In any case - that is not the point. DX cams sure can grab great shots, but for that stuff (BBIF :) FF is better.

 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
So you shot this at 280mm f5.6 on 24MP DX? If the same lens was used with 24MP FX, the image obtained would have been almost identical in FOV and DR to one shot at 200mm f4 on 24MP DX, which you could have done in the first place just by leaving the TC off. I happen to agree with you that more light is better and therefore FX is better, but this example is not supporting that point very well. Now, if you are getting better images on FX because you are shooting a 400mm lens, well there may be something to that but the weight and cost are significant.
 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
So you shot this at 280mm f5.6 on 24MP DX? If the same lens was used with 24MP FX, the image obtained would have been almost identical in FOV and DR to one shot at 200mm f4 on 24MP DX, which you could have done in the first place just by leaving the TC off. I happen to agree with you that more light is better and therefore FX is better, but this example is not supporting that point very well.
It is. Perhaps you need to look closer?



crop from the original sample
crop from the original sample

One more stop of light would certainly help here.

Perhaps think of it like that: for this kind of shooting, having FX body behind the lens captures twice the light, as compared with DX body. This is because in order to get the min ss required for sharp image, you are wide open and above base iso most of the time.
 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
So you shot this at 280mm f5.6 on 24MP DX? If the same lens was used with 24MP FX, the image obtained would have been almost identical in FOV and DR to one shot at 200mm f4 on 24MP DX, which you could have done in the first place just by leaving the TC off. I happen to agree with you that more light is better and therefore FX is better, but this example is not supporting that point very well.
It is. Perhaps you need to look closer?

crop from the original sample
crop from the original sample

One more stop of light would certainly help here.

Perhaps think of it like that: for this kind of shooting, having FX body behind the lens captures twice the light, as compared with DX body. This is because in order to get the min ss required for sharp image, you are wide open and above base iso most of the time.
I understand, you are claiming that if you had made this image with 420mm f5.6 on FX instead of 280mm f5.6 on DX, the results would have been better. That may well be true, but do you have such a lens?



Did you understand what I was pointing out? If you shot an image with 200mm f4 + TC1.4 at f5.6 on 24MP FX (instead of the DX image you showed), and find your results improved over your 24MP DX camera, then you should have shot your DX image at 187mm and F4 to get the same FOV and same amount of light. That is why this particular example is not ideal, although in general I agree with you.
 
In this case which would you think be more significant, getting a d750 for my nikon 85mm 1.8g lens or getting a sigma art 50mm 1.4 lens for my current D5200?
I would say get an 85mm lens for the D5200 instead. You get a 135mm focal length equivalent, while on full frame, it's ideal as a short portrait lens. I imagine you already have a 50mm f1.8 lens, so that's more than fine as a short portrait for the D6200, and will serve you well if you opt to move to full frame at a later point.
I have an 85mm 1.8g for my d5200 but it's too far for my liking and hard to nail focus, I also have a 35mm 1.8g DX to make it a combo, not sure now the next step getting a sigma art 50mm 1.4 or a D750 would be better. I also have 2 DX zooms 2.8 (17-55, 11-16)
An 85mm lens is hard to nail focus wide open. If after stopping down to f2.8 and it's still not focusing correctly, then you should send it in for calibration with your lens body. But if at wide open, you'll have to lower your expectations for getting critical focus every time.

As to your original question, I think it boils down to how much portraiture you do, and what kind. I agree that the Sigma 50mm f1.4 Art is a fantastic lens. But if you already have a nifty fifty, ithe Sigma is not going be that much better for portraiture. Sharper, yes. But portraiture isn't about sharpness, which is why I now use a Nikkor 50mm f1.2 AIS instead when I can find time to manual focus. It's quite soft and hazy wide open, but that gives skin tones a very flattering smooth glow. Using a very sharp lens for portraiture is going to show a little too much detail, right down to warts and skin pores, which if isn't softened in post-processing, is going to be very harsh on your subject.

I switched to FX out of long-term economics and necessity, not because I wanted a full frame badly. In fact,I was dead set not to go full frame for event shoots, because I no longer like lugging a DSLR around when I'm not shooting for work. I hated having to sell off my Canon 70D, as I already had all the glass I needed, and if it wasn't a bad copy, the 70D had everything I wanted in a workhorse.

I opted for a D750 over a D7100 or D610 because it represented better savings in the long run. The D610's kit lens is a 24-85 f3.5-4.5, which means I'd still need to get a telephoto lens immediately for work. On the other hand the D750's 24-120mm f4 kit is all I need for my event shoots, so a telephoto lens isn't mandatory yet.

I didn't go for DX because I don't like the Nikon 17-55 f2.8, which is basically a Sigma 17-50 f2.8 at twice the price for no VR, I was previously using the Sigma on my Canon and loved it. But since the reason I couldn't get my faulty 70D exchanged because Canon blamed my AF issues on using a third party lens, I would rather not migrate to Nikon and bring exactly the same problems over. That means using only Nikon glass for my work shoots. I would get third party brands if I don't need it critically, like say a Sigma 35mm f1.4 Art but as much as I like the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC for example, I can't risk it becoming an excuse for Nikon to deny me customer service.
 
Your shutter speed was 1/10,000 sec, totally unnecessary for that shot. Something on the order of 1/500-1/1000 would have allowed you to lower your iso significantly.
 
OK it's 1/3200 sec (the EXIF said 1/10000) still higher than necessary. You could have reduced it to 1/800
Sure I could have, but it would end up quite blurry.
and lowered iso by 2 stops for better results. 1/3200 sec was more than necessary.
iso was 250, not much to be had there. 3200 was more than necessary, but slower than 2000 would be too slow.

In any case - that is not the point. DX cams sure can grab great shots, but for that stuff (BBIF :) FF is better.
I see no reason why 1/800-1/1000 would produce blurry photos. There have been many posts in other forums of jets at those shutter speeds that were sharp.
 
In this case which would you think be more significant, getting a d750 for my nikon 85mm 1.8g lens or getting a sigma art 50mm 1.4 lens for my current D5200?
I would say get an 85mm lens for the D5200 instead. You get a 135mm focal length equivalent, while on full frame, it's ideal as a short portrait lens. I imagine you already have a 50mm f1.8 lens, so that's more than fine as a short portrait for the D6200, and will serve you well if you opt to move to full frame at a later point.
I have an 85mm 1.8g for my d5200 but it's too far for my liking and hard to nail focus, I also have a 35mm 1.8g DX to make it a combo, not sure now the next step getting a sigma art 50mm 1.4 or a D750 would be better. I also have 2 DX zooms 2.8 (17-55, 11-16)
An 85mm lens is hard to nail focus wide open. If after stopping down to f2.8 and it's still not focusing correctly, then you should send it in for calibration with your lens body. But if at wide open, you'll have to lower your expectations for getting critical focus every time.

As to your original question, I think it boils down to how much portraiture you do, and what kind. I agree that the Sigma 50mm f1.4 Art is a fantastic lens. But if you already have a nifty fifty, ithe Sigma is not going be that much better for portraiture. Sharper, yes. But portraiture isn't about sharpness, which is why I now use a Nikkor 50mm f1.2 AIS instead when I can find time to manual focus. It's quite soft and hazy wide open, but that gives skin tones a very flattering smooth glow. Using a very sharp lens for portraiture is going to show a little too much detail, right down to warts and skin pores, which if isn't softened in post-processing, is going to be very harsh on your subject.

I switched to FX out of long-term economics and necessity, not because I wanted a full frame badly. In fact,I was dead set not to go full frame for event shoots, because I no longer like lugging a DSLR around when I'm not shooting for work. I hated having to sell off my Canon 70D, as I already had all the glass I needed, and if it wasn't a bad copy, the 70D had everything I wanted in a workhorse.

I opted for a D750 over a D7100 or D610 because it represented better savings in the long run. The D610's kit lens is a 24-85 f3.5-4.5, which means I'd still need to get a telephoto lens immediately for work. On the other hand the D750's 24-120mm f4 kit is all I need for my event shoots, so a telephoto lens isn't mandatory yet.

I didn't go for DX because I don't like the Nikon 17-55 f2.8, which is basically a Sigma 17-50 f2.8 at twice the price for no VR, I was previously using the Sigma on my Canon and loved it. But since the reason I couldn't get my faulty 70D exchanged because Canon blamed my AF issues on using a third party lens, I would rather not migrate to Nikon and bring exactly the same problems over. That means using only Nikon glass for my work shoots. I would get third party brands if I don't need it critically, like say a Sigma 35mm f1.4 Art but as much as I like the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC for example, I can't risk it becoming an excuse for Nikon to deny me customer service.
When you say 85mm lens is hard to nail focus wide open, is it generally among all bodies like a fact of life?
 
Your shutter speed was 1/10,000 sec, totally unnecessary for that shot. Something on the order of 1/500-1/1000 would have allowed you to lower your iso significantly.
When an image is posted here without EXIF, for some reason shutter speed is reported incorrectly. See OP's later reply for true settings.
Please read my follow up to my above post where I acknowledged I became aware of that fact. You could have saved yourself the trouble of this reply. Having made this same mistake myself in the past I now read followup posts before I post a reply.

 
Last edited:
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
Depends.
No, it does not. It would certainly be much better.
Yes, it does depend. You reach a point of diminishing returns where even the slightest adjustment in software is greater than the 1 stop difference in noise. So what you are saying is that a shot at 250 iso is unusable on DX, but would be amazing on FX. That is a wild stretch.
What was the iso used?
That was a D7100 at iso 250.

The lens was 70-200 f/4 with a 1.4tc - i.e. shot wide open.
So, I fail to understand the point of your post. You tell us you were not happy with DX, and now you are with FX....while posting an underexposed shot with DX.

This explains why I am seeing noise at iso 250....as much as I normally see at 800 or higher. You underexposed the shot. All this example does is tell me more about the failings of the photographer than the gear.
 
OK it's 1/3200 sec (the EXIF said 1/10000) still higher than necessary. You could have reduced it to 1/800
Sure I could have, but it would end up quite blurry.
and lowered iso by 2 stops for better results. 1/3200 sec was more than necessary.
iso was 250, not much to be had there. 3200 was more than necessary, but slower than 2000 would be too slow.

In any case - that is not the point. DX cams sure can grab great shots, but for that stuff (BBIF :) FF is better.
I see no reason why 1/800-1/1000 would produce blurry photos. There have been many posts in other forums of jets at those shutter speeds that were sharp.
 
OK it's 1/3200 sec (the EXIF said 1/10000) still higher than necessary. You could have reduced it to 1/800
Sure I could have, but it would end up quite blurry.
and lowered iso by 2 stops for better results. 1/3200 sec was more than necessary.
iso was 250, not much to be had there. 3200 was more than necessary, but slower than 2000 would be too slow.

In any case - that is not the point. DX cams sure can grab great shots, but for that stuff (BBIF :) FF is better.
I see no reason why 1/800-1/1000 would produce blurry photos.
You might, once you try it ;-)
There have been many posts in other forums of jets at those shutter speeds that were sharp.
Of course. It is not really that difficult to make a sharp photo of a jet at 1/800, but there is a lot of luck involved going that way. Iow, depending on the definition of 'sharp', and the jet being photographed, the difference between 1/800 and 1/2000 is like saying I will get many sharp ones, and saying vast majority of the captures are going to be sharp.
 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
If you are getting results you like with what you have don't waste your money on FF.

If you need to make prints larger than 16x20 consistently the larger the sensor the better

If you are making money at this sure go for FF but everything is just bigger, heavier and more costly if that even matters.

If you have not invested in lighting for your events and portraits the FF camera is not going to be the cure all, you need more than just a FF camera and an expensive lens.

IF you are making the change to FF, and IMO I would sell all the lenses you have and just go full frame all the way if you are committing.

I just bought a second D750 because I do shoot events and it is a PIA to change lenses. Plus the very basics of photography for sake of a business is always have a second camera. which is what you would have if the mix and match of FF and APS-C lenses do not matter you you.

Personally I think the backup camera should be the same camera and the 3rd or fourth camera can be whatever you want for a one off emergency.

*A big However,

A second camera especially with landscapes in mind and for easy transport would be looking at mirrorless, The Fuji X system is awesome for landscapes. Depends what ratio of landscape, portrait to events you do and what is done with the images after you download them to the computer to work with.
 
Last edited:
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
Depends.
No, it does not. It would certainly be much better.
Yes, it does depend. You reach a point of diminishing returns where even the slightest adjustment in software is greater than the 1 stop difference in noise. So what you are saying is that a shot at 250 iso is unusable on DX, but would be amazing on FX. That is a wild stretch.
What was the iso used?
That was a D7100 at iso 250.

The lens was 70-200 f/4 with a 1.4tc - i.e. shot wide open.
So, I fail to understand the point of your post. You tell us you were not happy with DX, and now you are with FX....while posting an underexposed shot with DX.

This explains why I am seeing noise at iso 250....as much as I normally see at 800 or higher. You underexposed the shot. All this example does is tell me more about the failings of the photographer than the gear.
You have not done this stuff much, have you?

Look at it this way: no matter the lens, if the light is less than perfect, you are going to shoot the lens wide open. Then, irrespective of the format, your ss is the slowest necessary to get the sharp image. DX or FX, these two parameters are fixed, and you are almost certainly above the base iso, to get the brightness as the camera meters the scene.

You don't need to mix the equivalence here. I am not shooting charts.
 
I have been shooting for the past 2 years with my nikon D5200, over that period I have collected a range of lenses namely the tokina 11-16mm 2.8, sigma 17-55mm 2.8, the nikon 35mm 1.8 DX and 85mm 1.8.
I'm considering going full frame as the camera isn't nailing focus as fast/accurately/sharp as i want to. I'm considering getting a d750 and using my current body as a second body when shooting events, lens wise i would have to narrow down between getting the tamron 24-70mm 2.8 or the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lens.
I would like to ask how significant is this transition and if you think that it's worth the money, if so, which of these two lenses should I get?
I usually shoot portraits, events and landscapes.

Thanks!
Going FF because your D5200 does not nail the focus every time is as good a reason going FF as any.

Personally, I went FF for the quality of the files FF camera(s) produce.

For the results I want, a DX body would just be at the brink of collapse. Consequently, anything I need to do with the photo from a DX cam is a big '?'. I know, because I have been trying that for quite some time.

FF just gives me much, much more room when I need to edit the photo I took.
How so?
It seems there is never enough light when one needs it.

Look at this:

sooc - saved as jpg from VNX
sooc - saved as jpg from VNX

This would be somewhat typical (of course there are many variables, and this image was selected because it clearly demonstrates what I mean - not all my shots looked like this all the time) for my captures, when light was less than perfect. Examine the image at full size. Can it be made to work? Sure, but this is what I mean: the file is "stressed" already straight out of camera.

Of course DX cameras do produce great results, but I wasn't 100% happy. I am 100% happy with FX body.
What were the settings? There is no exif.
I have "linked" that image from my desktop. Could be why the exif is missing.

f/5.6 1/3200.

Irrespective of what the settings were, this image would look much better had it been made from twice as much light, no?
Depends.
No, it does not. It would certainly be much better.
Yes, it does depend. You reach a point of diminishing returns where even the slightest adjustment in software is greater than the 1 stop difference in noise. So what you are saying is that a shot at 250 iso is unusable on DX, but would be amazing on FX. That is a wild stretch.
What was the iso used?
That was a D7100 at iso 250.

The lens was 70-200 f/4 with a 1.4tc - i.e. shot wide open.
So, I fail to understand the point of your post. You tell us you were not happy with DX, and now you are with FX....while posting an underexposed shot with DX.

This explains why I am seeing noise at iso 250....as much as I normally see at 800 or higher. You underexposed the shot. All this example does is tell me more about the failings of the photographer than the gear.
You have not done this stuff much, have you?

Look at it this way: no matter the lens, if the light is less than perfect, you are going to shoot the lens wide open. Then, irrespective of the format, your ss is the slowest necessary to get the sharp image. DX or FX, these two parameters are fixed, and you are almost certainly above the base iso, to get the brightness as the camera meters the scene.

You don't need to mix the equivalence here. I am not shooting charts.
Only 700+ weddings over nearly 25 years before retiring from the industry. But hey, you've snapped some air shows and botched the exposure...I guess I'm supposed to be impressed or something. Learn how to meter and get back to me. Man, you web experts are hilarious.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top