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Third party zoom lenses and 5-axis steady shot

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Volkan Ersoy

Volkan Ersoy

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As Commlite announced that a Nikon F to Sony FE AF adaptor will go on sale in January, I have a question about using third party zoom lenses and AF adaptors that support AF on Sony FE cameras. What do you think would be the best path to follow in terms of SteadyShot settings? To turn it off, or to select a fixed focus length and hold on to it through the whole zoom range? For example, I have a 24-70mm lens (without VR). Would it provide better stabilization if I select, say, 50mm SteadyShot instead of turning it off?
 
Good question. I've not tried this, but I've switched lenses before and forgotten to change the steadyshot settings. I notice that when I've done this, if the change is not too great, ibis seems to still work fairly well from what I can tell and that's without any actual pixel peeping tests, but seems to work. When I change from 14 mm to 400, I can instantly tell something is weird, and seems to mess things up more than help, but not certain here either.
 
Volkan Ersoy said:
As Commlite announced that a Nikon F to Sony FE AF adaptor will go on sale in January, I have a question about using third party zoom lenses and AF adaptors that support AF on Sony FE cameras. What do you think would be the best path to follow in terms of SteadyShot settings? To turn it off, or to select a fixed focus length and hold on to it through the whole zoom range? For example, I have a 24-70mm lens (without VR). Would it provide better stabilization if I select, say, 50mm SteadyShot instead of turning it off?
Click to expand...
An AF adapter will transmit the correct FL to the camera body, making it unnecessary to lock the IBIS to a particular setting. It should just work (assuming they get the adapter right).

For non-electronic zooms, you need to use the widest setting.
 
Promit said:
For non-electronic zooms, you need to use the widest setting.
Click to expand...
I too shoot with a few legacy, MF zooms which have no communication to my a7R2. Lacking any real understanding, I have been trying to set the IBIS focal length to the mid-point of the zoom range.

Please help me understand the logic behind your advice. Why choose to set the IBIS focal length to the wide end over the long end of the zoom range?

Stan
 
Stan Huntting said:
Promit said:
For non-electronic zooms, you need to use the widest setting.
Click to expand...
I too shoot with a few legacy, MF zooms which have no communication to my a7R2. Lacking any real understanding, I have been trying to set the IBIS focal length to the mid-point of the zoom range.

Please help me understand the logic behind your advice. Why choose to set the IBIS focal length to the wide end over the long end of the zoom range?
Click to expand...
A longer focal length requires more compensation in the IS system. It will overcompensate any time the IBIS FL is set longer than the actual FL in use.
 
Promit said:
Stan Huntting said:
Promit said:
For non-electronic zooms, you need to use the widest setting.
Click to expand...
I too shoot with a few legacy, MF zooms which have no communication to my a7R2. Lacking any real understanding, I have been trying to set the IBIS focal length to the mid-point of the zoom range.

Please help me understand the logic behind your advice. Why choose to set the IBIS focal length to the wide end over the long end of the zoom range?
Click to expand...
A longer focal length requires more compensation in the IS system. It will overcompensate any time the IBIS FL is set longer than the actual FL in use.
Click to expand...
Fair enough, but how is that overcompensation worse than the undercompensation that will occur if the IBIS FL is set to the wide end of the zoom range and the shot is taken at the long end? Which error has the most detrimental effect?

Stan
 
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