XF1 (EXR) overexposed pictures - cause?

kitsios_spyros

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I bought a lightly used XF1 a few months ago. I enjoyed the DR modes a lot as I am a huge fun of high DR capable sensors. SNR modes were not very convincing for me, probably due to my experience with the 14bit raw files of Pentax K5ii, which is excellent for an APSc sensor. I am making no comparisons here, just mentioning my experience and the reason I loved XF1 for day/good light scenes.

Due to the intended use for my needs, my only real problem with XF1 was the max shutter speed

1/2000 at f1.8 for DR100%

1/1000 at f1.8 for DR200%

1/500 at f1.8 for DR400%

So, I could not enjoy f1.8 at good available light, even when DR400% was enabled, due to the slow max SS.

However, this weekend I took a few shoots under strong morning light and everything was washed out. Next evening after some testing at much lower available light and after studing the exif I figured out that the camera overexposed constantly by at least one stop as

*) max SS that I managed was 1/1000 or slower for f1.8 and DR100%

*) -1EV to -2EV comp. was able to solve the problem if the SS was slow enough (1/1000), so this needed low ISO in low light, which was never enough for strong daylight of course

*) Noise was worse than I can remember for each ISO stop tested/used. Colour fidelity was also decreased

*) Trying to get stills while recording video, the exposure of both video and still was excellent. But for video the camera does not use EXR modes and stops down whenever needed

So, I believe that at least for my camera (if not all EXR cameras having overesposed images) that the root cause is not a stack wide open aperture but the EXR sensor getting stacked to SNR 200% mode (or even DR400%), so half of the pixels are shoot at higher ISO by one (or two) stops.

I follow the Fujifilm cameras for more than a decade (I chose a 6500fd as my first "serious" digital camera) as well as this forum, but I do not remeber any such discussions about sensor problem, only the locked lens error and the stacked wide open aperture.

Any thoughts?
 
From your post you probaly know a lot more about cameras than me but here goes. I have used HS20 and slightly later model HS25, both primarily in EXR DR mode. When I first got the HS20 I thought there was soething wrong with the camera due to washed out pictures. Trial and error led me to use a general under exposure of -2/3 with the HS20 and -1/3 with the HS25. However, for example, when taking full zoom pictures of birds with a fussy background, I often need -1. I have also a fairly crummy S8200 which just about works without adjustment. Kim Letkeman's guide + other posts have suggested general under exposure is needed for EXR sensor. Seems to just be the way it is?

This may not help you if you are primarily looking for the cause rather than confirming what happens.

A
 
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Did you try turning it off and back on again? (Sorry, stale IT joke.)

Sorry I did not understand your post well enough to help further. If you have specific examples, with EXIF, someone might be able to diagnose.

If you use the Setup menu to RESET (return all settings to default values) do images still look washed out?

If so, you have a sticky shutter.
 
I always set -1/3 or -2/3 on exposures with my X10 and X-S1 (same sensor and processor as your XF1). Sometimes on a rare occasion it even takes -1.0 to save extremely bright highlights outdoors. The exception is when zoomed into the scene and no sky appears in the frame. Then the overexposure seems to settle down.

EXR cameras are a bit more tweaky, but can reward with great images for their sensor size, if set right. The link in Andy10's second post above is very helpful, if you have time to read Kim L's article.
 
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I bought a lightly used XF1 a few months ago. I enjoyed the DR modes a lot as I am a huge fun of high DR capable sensors. SNR modes were not very convincing for me, probably due to my experience with the 14bit raw files of Pentax K5ii, which is excellent for an APSc sensor. I am making no comparisons here, just mentioning my experience and the reason I loved XF1 for day/good light scenes.

Due to the intended use for my needs, my only real problem with XF1 was the max shutter speed

1/2000 at f1.8 for DR100%

1/1000 at f1.8 for DR200%

1/500 at f1.8 for DR400%

So, I could not enjoy f1.8 at good available light, even when DR400% was enabled, due to the slow max SS.

However, this weekend I took a few shoots under strong morning light and everything was washed out. Next evening after some testing at much lower available light and after studing the exif I figured out that the camera overexposed constantly by at least one stop as

*) max SS that I managed was 1/1000 or slower for f1.8 and DR100%

*) -1EV to -2EV comp. was able to solve the problem if the SS was slow enough (1/1000), so this needed low ISO in low light, which was never enough for strong daylight of course

*) Noise was worse than I can remember for each ISO stop tested/used. Colour fidelity was also decreased

*) Trying to get stills while recording video, the exposure of both video and still was excellent. But for video the camera does not use EXR modes and stops down whenever needed

So, I believe that at least for my camera (if not all EXR cameras having overesposed images) that the root cause is not a stack wide open aperture but the EXR sensor getting stacked to SNR 200% mode (or even DR400%), so half of the pixels are shoot at higher ISO by one (or two) stops.

I follow the Fujifilm cameras for more than a decade (I chose a 6500fd as my first "serious" digital camera) as well as this forum, but I do not remeber any such discussions about sensor problem, only the locked lens error and the stacked wide open aperture.

Any thoughts?
The XF1's forum history suggests that the problem may be due to sticky aperture blades. Some extremists have said that it affects all XF1s and one insisted that they would all fail at or before 3,000 shutter actuations. I have a couple of XF1s and the one I've used the most has taken over 10,000 photos so this bogus claim is obviously false. That said, you should probably try to test your XF1 to see if it has sticky aperture blades. This quote may help :
...

We experienced the identical problem several months ago with our XF1. I was using settings very close to Kim's suggested settings. Upon my initial diagnosis, I thought that I had found -- and solved -- a very unusual cause for the matter: Report on disgnosis and treatment here. However, further investigation proved that my initial diagnosis was, though technically not incorrect, incomplete and masking a matter of coincidental correlation. The SD card was defective, but the main cause of the problem was not the defective card, but a stuck aperture blade.

The proof was that the camera overexposed more the smaller the indicate aperture (on the LCD screen and in the EXIF) was. When the LCD/EXIF said that the aperture was f/11, the entire picture was blown. When (at longer focal lengths) the LCD and EXIF said that the aperture was f/4.9, the images were just fine. At the widest setting of the lens (6.4 mm actual, 25 mm equivalent), when the LCD and EXIF showed f/1.8, the exposure was fine. When I had performed my initial diagnosis, I was taking test photos indoors, and the camera was usually trying to set aperture as wide as it could, which happened to be the range where the camera exposed properly with its aperture blades stuck wide open. I notice the f/11 settings in the EXIF of your beach scenes and very strongly suspect that you are experiencing the same syndrome.

I sent the camera to Fujifilm Service in Edison, NJ, enclosing a note explaining my (updated) diagnosis, and two weeks later the repaired camera showed up at my doorstep; no charge. We have seen zero problems with the XF1 since.

...
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52983714
 
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I always set -1/3 or -2/3 on exposures with my X10 and X-S1 (same sensor and processor as your XF1). Sometimes on a rare occasion it even takes -1.0 to save extremely bright highlights outdoors. The exception is when zoomed into the scene and no sky appears in the frame. Then the overexposure seems to settle down.
I used to do this with my F550EXR, but it seems totally unnecessary with the XF1 and F900EXR, except in special situations, such as night shots or snow scenes.
 
Thanl you for the response.

I do have sticky apperture blades too aftet all.
But yhe sensor issue is there. Add another problem.
SS faster than 1/3 sec, image overexposed
1/3' or slower, image is black.
But stills grabbed while taking video and video itself have spot on exposure
 
Thanl you for the response.

I do have sticky apperture blades too aftet all.
But yhe sensor issue is there. Add another problem.
SS faster than 1/3 sec, image overexposed
1/3' or slower, image is black.
But stills grabbed while taking video and video itself have spot on exposure
 
Thanl you for the response.

I do have sticky apperture blades too aftet all.
But yhe sensor issue is there. Add another problem.
SS faster than 1/3 sec, image overexposed
1/3' or slower, image is black.
But stills grabbed while taking video and video itself have spot on exposure
 
Hi,

Same story for me ... I succeed to sold xf1 battery + leather case for 20 euros ....

Mine was only 1 year and 1 month .... Fuji said that it's normal for electronic stuff ...

XF1 is a disposable camera !!!

I loved my XF1, shots were very sharp and good ....
 
Video is probably taken at maximum aperture to maximize brightness, and aperture does not have to close fast as when taking the photo.
XF1 video is surprisingly good, I mean for Fujifilm video. It is better than F900 video, even though the F900 is a much faster camera in all respects. If I need a video, the XF1 is my go-to camera - although the Nikon AW110 is good, the XF1 has better dynamic range, probably due to larger sensor.
You are at least the 15th poster on this forum whose XF1 has failed, some have had even repeated failures (repaired camera failed again). I know of only two forum posters whose XF1 has not yet failed...
Am I one of them?
 
Video is probably taken at maximum aperture to maximize brightness, and aperture does not have to close fast as when taking the photo.
XF1 video is surprisingly good, I mean for Fujifilm video. It is better than F900 video, even though the F900 is a much faster camera in all respects. If I need a video, the XF1 is my go-to camera - although the Nikon AW110 is good, the XF1 has better dynamic range, probably due to larger sensor.
You are at least the 15th poster on this forum whose XF1 has failed, some have had even repeated failures (repaired camera failed again). I know of only two forum posters whose XF1 has not yet failed...
Am I one of them?
Yes, you are...
 

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