I think that the non-DSLR digital cameras use a marketing slight of
hand.... Here are the statistics from the Minolta Dimage 7i (my
previous camera).
The sensor is 8.8mm wide -- giving a 4.0x crop.
The zoom range is 7.2 - 50.8 (which means 28mm to 200mm with the crop)
The f-stop is advertised as 2.8 - 3.5.
I don't think there is any sleight of hand here. It's a 7.2mm to 50.8mm zoom, with an effective f-stop range of f/2.8 to f/3.5.
OK, let's do some math: A 35mm camera with a 200mm lens would need
200mm / 3.5 = 57mm front glass collecting light. A zoom with a 7x
range would probably need quite a bit bigger piece of glass than
this, since some of the aperature is wasted by the wide-range zoom.
However, the Dimage 7i takes 49mm filters! Clearly, the front
glass is less than 57mm.
Just a quick note -- the aperture is 57mm, not the front element. The front element can be much larger, but likely will be at least 57mm large. You probably knew this already, but just to clarify ;-).
That's a 50.8mm lens on the long end, so the physical size of the aperture wide open is effectively 14.5mm, not 57mm. I say "effectively" because optics designers use tricks sometimes to make the effective aperture not the same as the physical aperture -- that's how a wide open lens is f/2.8 for the same physical aperture size whether you are zoomed out at 200mm or in at 70mm with the 70-200/2.8.
In any case, use the actual focal length of the lens to determine aperture.
So, it seems to me that point-and-shoot cameras calculate the focal
ranges using the crop factor but then "conveniently" use
non-cropped focal when computing the f-stop. You can't have it
both ways!
I understand your frustration, but I don't think they are cheating. The lens
says it is a 7.2mm to 50.8mm zoom, it
says it is f/2.8 to f/3.5 variable aperture. That's exactly what it is. The fact that the "effective focal length" refers only to the field of view and doesn't affect aperture is not sleight of hand. Heck, DPR is filled with messages talking about how DOF is not the same for an equivalent field of view with a 1.6x DSLR versus an SLR -- and now you understand why!
Accordingly, to compare all cameras, we should probably convert
EVERYTHING to 35mm equivalents. Thus when you compute f-stop, you
should use the crop-adjusted focal length to do the calculation (or
use the non-cropped focal and multiply the resulting f-stop by the
crop).
No offense, but this makes no sense. Some people (including me!) shoot with formats larger than 35mm and I hate it when everything is stated in terms of 35mm as if that's all there is ;-). The bottom line is the focal length is the focal length, the f-stop is the f-stop, and that's all there is to it. Keep in mind the focal length isn't some number pulled out of thin air, it's the bellows distance from the nodal point of the lens to the film/sensor when focused at infinity. If your film or sensor is tiny, you only capture a small image and a tight field of view. If your film or sensor is large, you capture a large image and a much wider field of view.
Put another way, compare the Canon 1DS to the 10D using the exact
same lens. The same number of photons enter the lens for a given
exposure, but the 10D throws away 1 / 1.6 of those photons! Thus
for purposes of comparing light-gathering, the 10D would be
operating at 1.6x the f-stop.
Not really, but again, I understand your frustration when it comes to tiny sensor P&S digicams ;-).
--
Brian Kennedy
http://www.briankennedy.net/