Nikon 200-500 Tripod Mount system?

You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.

For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
 
Going back to basics the lens weighs around 10 pounds plus body and is 10 inches long without zooming so it needs something more substantial than the QR plate being used to prevent swivel and to provide firm and safe support.

Hardly a month goes by without the launch of another tripod and head system. There is far more choice than 10 years ago, and also quite a bit of garbage around.

A long plate, ideally with 2 quarter inch screw fittings to attach to 2 screw threads in the tripod collar (as on 200-400) is a good way to prevent swivel. Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
 
Unless you are shooting long exposures or < 1/40s shots on a regular basis:

The lens is handholdable. The VR is very nice. Yes, I get it that there is a trade-off between flexibility (and getting a shot) vs. using a tripod and getting the best IQ for a shot.

I said 1/40s because I have got sharp shots at that speed. When I tried speeds lesser than that, I had to use a longer burst to get one shot that would be sharp.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
 
You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.

For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
 
You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.

For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.
 
You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.

For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,



ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg



b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg



the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,

ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg

b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg

the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.

Thanks
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,

ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg

b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg

the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.

Thanks
The one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,

ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg

b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg

the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.

Thanks
The one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.
Thanks, think of going with this bushing


and this plate


do you think it will work.
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,

ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg



b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg
the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.

Thanks
The one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.
Thanks, think of going with this bushing

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1004781-REG/kirk_qrb_1b_brass_reducer_bushing.html

and this plate

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101494-REG/Arca_Swiss_802231_Camera_Plate_for_Nikon.html

do you think it will work.
I think it's to wide you only need something 1.5" wide and about 3.5" long.
 
The MeFoto GlobeTrotter (comes with a ball head) is only $250 and perfect for my 200-500
Check it out - it's a great product and the price is right
Converts to an outstanding mono too!
 
Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!

For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.

Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.

I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,

ba9628171cf8436aa08b3f96563397f4.jpg

b9b3f820219749c39fedeb1fe8831173.jpg

the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Nice and neat! Well done!

Yeah, the aluminium usually is softer than one imagines! I guess it is a low tensile strength aluminium, as it then has better failure characteristics than a high tensile strength variant. And it might be easier to cast!

Aircraft wings use high tensile strength aluminium on the top, and low tensile strength on the bottom. Fokker tried using the same high tensile strength stuff on both sides, but failure cracks appeared quite soon, so they had to go back to the normal practice!

--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
 

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