Laslo Varadi
Veteran Member
Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
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Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.
For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.
For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
Any suggestions on a tripod mount system for the Nikon 200-500. I currently have a Manfrotto QR system, but the lens tends to rotate an am not sure if the QR is adequate. I will use the lens on a monopod or handheld.
I do like Manfrotto's monopod heads. Preferably one with 501PL plate.You switched from a tripod mount where an Arca-Swiss compatible ballhead and lens plate are the best solution to a monopod where a ballhead is not really needed with this lens. With the 200-500mm it is best to mount it to the monopod and then use the collar to rotate the camera and lens for vertical shots.
For a swivel action there are rubber adapters you can use on a monopod or a Bogen swivel type adapter as you only need for it to pivot on one axis as you can rotate the monopod as needed.
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user


Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,
the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
The one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,
the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Thanks
Thanks, think of going with this bushingThe one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,
the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Thanks
Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,
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I think it's to wide you only need something 1.5" wide and about 3.5" long.Thanks, think of going with this bushingThe one in the photo Is Induro PU 85 it came with my gimbal head GHB1.Hello Bob, Can you tell me which plate you are using.the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.
Thanks
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1004781-REG/kirk_qrb_1b_brass_reducer_bushing.html
and this plate
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101494-REG/Arca_Swiss_802231_Camera_Plate_for_Nikon.html
do you think it will work.
Nice and neat! Well done!Your right it was very easy, it took longer to charge the battery onmy drill than it did to drill and tap the collar.Drilling an extra hole is no major issue. I've done that on several feet! Normally I'd be drilling a hole suitable for a locking pin (like the one on Manfrotto's 501PL QR plate), sometimes replacing the locking pin with a 3mm recessed-head, stainless, screw, and fitting a washer and a Nyloc nut on the topside. Works great, but I only use a screw & nut, if I know it will be a permanent installation!The Nikkor 200-500 OEM foot does not have two screw holes (just one). This is one of my (minor) concerns, and intend to use a plate that has a shoulder/edge on one end that can be firmed against one of the ends of the OEM foot to prevent rotation.Sorry I do not know if either collar has 2 screw holes for more secure fitting of a long plate.
For lighter lenses it happens that I use a ziplock (to prevent the screw to start unwind itself), through the extra hole in the lens-foot from the locking pin hole in the QR plate. Then over the front end of the lens's foot, and back into the locking pin hole in the QR foot, and then you pull it tight, and cut off the surplus.
Works excellently, and if I need to take the plate off, it is a simple snip to free it!
--
Tord_2 (at) photographer (dot) net
Mostly Nikon V1, V2, & D600, user
I put an old manfrotto thumb screw in the one I drilled, the aluminum is very soft and if you used a screw that required a wrench it could pull out the threads, but it should work fine,
the original screw it tightened with a wrench, and the thumb screw will keep it from rotating.