Handheld versus Tripod

AKL57

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I'm ordering the A7rii and 16-35 lens especially for travel and landscape photography. Please offer insights on how to calculate scenarios that allow for sharp handheld shots. Thanks in advance.
 
I'm ordering the A7rii and 16-35 lens especially for travel and landscape photography. Please offer insights on how to calculate scenarios that allow for sharp handheld shots. Thanks in advance.
 
I'm ordering the A7rii and 16-35 lens especially for travel and landscape photography.
Should produce some very nice imagery.
Please offer insights on how to calculate scenarios that allow for sharp handheld shots. Thanks in advance.
The sharpest shots will come from a tripod with moderately fast shutter speeds(to stop wind effects), followed by hand held high shutter speeds, then low shutter speeds that rely on IBIS.
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Keith L.
So basically for hand held shots, take your time, use good technique, use fast enough shutter speeds to stop any subject motion, don't count on IBIS to save the day, if you do the above, IBIS should have no problem taking care of the rest, then double check your results before you walk away.

In lower light, you can let the IBIS handle more duties as your shutter speed drops, you'll have to test for the point at which the shutter speed becomes too slow, you also have to be aware that that point may be different from day to day.

My main point, is that high resolution cameras have less tolerance for sloppy technique, if you can take care of that, the rest will fall in line.

--
I don't have any AF lenses, so if I want a picture, I have to do more than squeeze a button.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
My lenses:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus.
Mark Twain
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
 
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Good choice. I have the same combination, but, I tend to use the 24-70 more often than the 16-35.
I've heard of dissatisfaction with the 24-70, compared to the quality of the 16-35; although I agree that the 24-70 range is very useful.
Handheld should be no problem as both the lens as well as the camera body has stabilization.
When do you use the lens stabilization and when the camera stabilization? (What situations?)
I do not know how steady your hands are, but, I am able to go down to 1/8th of a second handheld. I usually try to support my hand or any part of the camera on a sold surface, if that is possible.
 
So basically for hand held shots, take your time, use good technique, use fast enough shutter speeds to stop any subject motion, don't count on IBIS to save the day, if you do the above, IBIS should have no problem taking care of the rest, then double check your results before you walk away.

In lower light, you can let the IBIS handle more duties as your shutter speed drops, you'll have to test for the point at which the shutter speed becomes too slow, you also have to be aware that that point may be different from day to day.
Do you use the minimum shutter speed option?
My main point, is that high resolution cameras have less tolerance for sloppy technique, if you can take care of that, the rest will fall in line.
Thanks for the reminder that good technique is paramount over equipment capabilities. I appreciate you sharing this great advice.

 
My choice for landscape which also involve low light /long exposure shots is a light carbon fiber tripod with a pistol grip. I use a remote shutter also. I have used a Sirui T-1205x as well as the Slick pistol grip almost daily for two years. It is a super light combination for my long hikes, very durable, high quality, quick to adjust and perfect for travel. The only drawback is that the tripod is a bit short for me.

I also use the 24-70 native lens on my A7II which covers the range I use the most.

Your combination should work really well.
 
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So basically for hand held shots, take your time, use good technique, use fast enough shutter speeds to stop any subject motion, don't count on IBIS to save the day, if you do the above, IBIS should have no problem taking care of the rest, then double check your results before you walk away.

In lower light, you can let the IBIS handle more duties as your shutter speed drops, you'll have to test for the point at which the shutter speed becomes too slow, you also have to be aware that that point may be different from day to day.
Do you use the minimum shutter speed option?
My A7r still only defaults to 1/60, Hello Sony!

Having a minimum shutter speed is the most brilliant thing about auto ISO, it's just too bad that Sony hits lots of home runs but keeps stopping at 2nd base, and never follows through, well they do seem to be getting a step closer with every generation, one less idiosyncrasy at a time....
My main point, is that high resolution cameras have less tolerance for sloppy technique, if you can take care of that, the rest will fall in line.
Thanks for the reminder that good technique is paramount over equipment capabilities. I appreciate you sharing this great advice.
 
My choice for landscape which also involve low light /long exposure shots is a light carbon fiber tripod with a pistol grip. I use a remote shutter also. I have used a Sirui T-1205x as well as the Slick pistol grip almost daily for two years. It is a super light combination for my long hikes, very durable, high quality, quick to adjust and perfect for travel. The only drawback is that the tripod is a bit short for me.

I also use the 24-70 native lens on my A7II which covers the range I use the most.

Your combination should work really well.
Sounds like you are happy with the 24-70 quality.

You read my mind - I've been searching for something that will work well with my portable tripod and the Slick pistol grip looks "slick." Thanks for the heads up.
 
Stabilisation is great for travel. Landscape needs tripod if you want to shoot dusk/dawn. I have the sirui t025x
 
Good choice. I have the same combination, but, I tend to use the 24-70 more often than the 16-35.
I've heard of dissatisfaction with the 24-70, compared to the quality of the 16-35; although I agree that the 24-70 range is very useful.
I am quite happy with the 24-70. Recently, I took a shot of a 120 feet tall hill (ofcourse, handheld shot). I did not even notice that there was a man standing at the peak. In raw file, I was not only able to see the man clearly. I was even able to read the text on his t-shirt. So, I am quite pleased with its performance. It meets my need fully.
Handheld should be no problem as both the lens as well as the camera body has stabilization.
When do you use the lens stabilization and when the camera stabilization? (What situations?)
My understanding is that the camera recognizes that the native Sony lens also has compensation and it works together with the stabilization of the lens. I believe together the stabilization effect is even more. If you switch off the stabilization using the switch on the barrel of the lens (as in case of a 70-200 lens), then the camera in-body stabilization is also switched off together. But, if you use a not-native lens, the logic may be different.
I do not know how steady your hands are, but, I am able to go down to 1/8th of a second handheld. I usually try to support my hand or any part of the camera on a sold surface, if that is possible.
 
No I just use 10s delay. Sometimes I use the phone as a remote
 
I go handheld in museums and for candid street photography, street fairs and candid family portraits.

For almost anything else, I use a tripod. Makes images sharper, lets you use a lower ISO (more dynamic range, less noise), slows things down which improves things like composition, horizontal horizon, timing, exposure settings, depth of field and focus. A tripod increases the pleasure of photography. Don't leave home without one!

[Disclaimer: I don't have a Sony but I want one.]

My opinion.

maljo



3cda1035c889464eb89d91cd58e206c1.jpg
 
My tripod is always in the back of the car with a monopod too. My Sony doesn't have IBIS and none of my lenses have OIS.

However you should try an Olympus EM1 or EM5mkii if you want to understand the difference that IBIS can make. Can even do handheld in camera HDR.

Andrew
 
My tripod is always in the back of the car with a monopod too. My Sony doesn't have IBIS and none of my lenses have OIS.

However you should try an Olympus EM1 or EM5mkii if you want to understand the difference that IBIS can make. Can even do handheld in camera HDR.

Andrew
 
I'm ordering the A7rii and 16-35 lens especially for travel and landscape photography. Please offer insights on how to calculate scenarios that allow for sharp handheld shots. Thanks in advance.
 
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I'm ordering the A7rii and 16-35 lens especially for travel and landscape photography. Please offer insights on how to calculate scenarios that allow for sharp handheld shots. Thanks in advance.

--
Keith L.
It's really simple, just follow the reciprocal focal length rule and you'll never go wrong if you use the correct handholding techniques ( Tuck your elbows in, support the lens etc ). The rule is basically to use a shutter speed at least equivalent to the focal length you are shooting at. For instance, if you are shooting at 28mm then use 1/30th shutter speed, or at 16mm 1/15th should be fine. If you follow this rule then you should never go wrong, of course more shutter speed is even better so that is the bare minimum you should aim for. Now some will say they can shoot lower using IBIS etc, and that may be true but you will be virtually guaranteed sharp results if you apply that minimum rule as much as possible. Where it can sometimes fail is if you have been exerting yourself prior to taking the shot, for instance if you have been climbing steps or a hill, in which case double the minimum rule as above to account for heavy breathing/increased heart rate.

Personally I would rather raise the ISO one stop and ensure I have enough shutter speed rather than gamble and risk getting a shot ruined by handshake, especially on high resolution cameras, YMMV.

--
667......neighbour of the beast...
http://bit.ly/1K1oqkv
 
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He's ordered an A7II, which has IBIS and a pro-grade sensor. I don't think he needs a MFT. sensor to appreciate anything.
pro grade sensors are in cell phone cameras... the bigger the sensor in a consumer device the less pro-grade it is
 
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Stabilisation is great for travel. Landscape needs tripod if you want to shoot dusk/dawn. I have the sirui t025x
Do you use a remote trigger? If so, which one?

--
Keith L.
I've used one of these cheap IR remotes since I bought my NEX-7, I got mine from eBay, work just fine.




s-l500.jpg




--
I don't have any AF lenses, so if I want a picture, I have to do more than squeeze a button.
My lenses:
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus.
Mark Twain
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
 
Stabilisation is great for travel. Landscape needs tripod if you want to shoot dusk/dawn. I have the sirui t025x
Do you use a remote trigger? If so, which one?

--
Keith L.
I've used one of these cheap IR remotes since I bought my NEX-7, I got mine from eBay, work just fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-IR...ol-For-Sony-Alpha-A7R-A500-A900-/271889485846

s-l500.jpg


--
I don't have any AF lenses, so if I want a picture, I have to do more than squeeze a button.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
My lenses:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/viewprofile.php?Action=viewprofile&username=LightShow
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus.
Mark Twain
####Where's my FF NEX-7 ?????
I had one too for my Nex-7 but it doesn't work with the A7 series. Download the app and use your cell phone for a shutter release.
 

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