Thanks for the quiz, Tom,

To answer your original question:

Yeah, sure, take the V1 to the regatta. It will work fine.
 
A=V1 NEF

B=Sony JPG

C= Sony ARW

D=V1 JPG

Unfortunately in hindsight I was not so clever with the exposure. The N1 was f5.6, iso 140, 1/640. I upped the shutter speed on the Sony because of recent comments about poorer VR, so used f6.3, iso 250, 1/250 (wide open shutter priority on both, with auto iso. I didn't and don't think that the higher iso should matter with the bigger sensor.

I certainly don't think it is worthwhile carrying the bigger Sony set up on a boat!

thanks for the constructive responses and comments

tom
Tom,

looks like I end up favoring the RAWs regardless of camera. Trying the understand why the Jpegs had overexposed shadows. Do you use dynamic lighting option in both cameras?
 
the sony shutter speed should of course be 1/1250

tom
Why would you need such a high shutter with a 55-200 lens with VR on APSC. That's insane. Even without vr.

it would better if you made the shutter speed the same at the same fov.. Then set the aperture of the Sony to be 2x (2 stops) higher on the Sony to give the Sony lens at chance to sharpen up at the same effective dof as the Nikon. Let iso float to where ever it wants to be. It will be around 4x higher(2 stops) than the Nikon. Then post just the raws.

thanks for the test
 
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DR off on V1, DR auto on A6000. In reply to your other thread, I will try some other SS combinations next week, time permitting.

Recent posts in the Sony forum have stressed the need for high ss on 55-210 to get sharp pics. I was unhappy with sharpness when I first tested the lens and thought I would give it every chance. Probably better to reduce aperture to f8, and back off a little from 210. I'll try again

tom
 
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Even without seeing the originals, I got two Nikon's right. 30-110 lens is Sharp! I have one. And the Raw is quite noticeably better than Jpeg. Didn't bother to tell difference b/w B and C.
 
Hey, Tom!

I'm hoping that I've waited long enough to add a 'side-question' here.

Is this your first V1? I wanted to 'razz' you about referring to the camera as 'lowly', but realized that I have no idea what your feelings about it are. I'm guessing that you used the term in an affectionate way, sort of like referring to one's wife as 'the ball and chain'. ( :

Don't forget to do something about that frpqwx control-wheel before shooting your event! In my humble opinion, none of the other V1 characteristics that could use some 'improvement' come close to the significance of that particular problem.

( Any razzing would have been, or will be, good-natured! :-) )
 
Bob.

Sorry, this is a bit of a tale.

I had a V1 for a year or ss when the cheap deals first came out, then added a V2, and then another (selling my V1 when I bought the second 'spare' V2).

Then I was lucky to pick up a full V3 kit for $400 buy it now (including grip and EVF). I wondered what it would be like, but it was perfect with the original purchase paperwork so not stolen.

I did not like the V3 for various usability reasons even though the IQ was slightly better than the V2. In the summer I sold the V3 at a decent profit, then my spare V2, and some of my Sony lenses (keeping all my N1 lenses) to build up a 'war chest' against the V4 announcement.

Stupidly I left the V2 in a drawer when I left London, so didn't have anything to shoot regattas until I go back to London at Christmas. So I bought a used V1 for less than $100 and a used 55-210 for my a6000 and have been testing to see which is most usable for long shots. Hence my post here. Incidentally I will post an update, as I can now get better results form the Sony, with a bit of stopping down and dialing back the FL to 180mm. It is still bigger though!

Is the V1 lowly? Well it is cheap to buy, has less Mp, and less features than the other Vs. Does it produce worse results? Probably not, when the V2 or V3 are downsized the output looks pretty much the same.

I don't like the dial, which I tape up (did with my old one) even though the EVF warns you that you have the wrong setting. I don't like the auto review, but a half touch on the shutter kills it. I don't like the time to turn on or the on/off button (V2 not much better either)

I don't like having to menu dive (but the V2 is really not much better) but the trick with V1 is to use it as a 'presettable P&S', and let the auto features work. I think it has a better exposure algorithm than the others, as well as great metering and WB (latter not important with RAW)

So my plan now is to sell the remaining V2 when I back to London, and keep the V1 as back up for a V4.....I hope

Does that answer it?

tom

Hey, Tom!

I'm hoping that I've waited long enough to add a 'side-question' here.

Is this your first V1? I wanted to 'razz' you about referring to the camera as 'lowly', but realized that I have no idea what your feelings about it are. I'm guessing that you used the term in an affectionate way, sort of like referring to one's wife as 'the ball and chain'. ( :

Don't forget to do something about that frpqwx control-wheel before shooting your event! In my humble opinion, none of the other V1 characteristics that could use some 'improvement' come close to the significance of that particular problem.

( Any razzing would have been, or will be, good-natured! :-) )
 
Sounds like you're pretty open-minded about acknowledging both the good and the bad characteristics of any given camera. The way Nikon 'mixes it up' between models does make it difficult to choose a favorite or conclude that one is 'best'. Any given N1 body seems to have its strengths and weaknesses, and they're all different for any given situation!

I'm glad you consider the V1 to be a viable camera. Anyone who has a single body and multiple lenses would be hard-pressed to get more bang for the buck than getting a great deal on a V1 'backup' body like you did.

Want to point out for the record that 'feature-wise' the V1 is the only N1 with both an intervalometer and front and rear infrared sensors. ( :
 

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