My tips would be:
1. Shoot RAW. The LX100's JPEGs are soft and mushy, and playing with the settings is only a partial solution. But its RAW files take sharpening well, offer great highlight and shadow recovery and can be punchy and saturated. Truly, a Jekyll and Hyde camera, the best of which is hidden to people who confine themselves to JPEGs
2. Get the auto lens cap, Cokin Pure Harmonie UV filter and Panasonic ever-ready case. This combination is pleasingly unobtrusive, well protected and quick to deploy, making it a great street and travel camera
3. Here in the UK, and possibly elsewhere, there's a kit available comprising the ERC and a spare battery, which is cheaper than getting the two separately - a good buy IMO
4. Set the camera to switch automatically to electronic shutter when required. That way you can shoot wide open in bright light for portraits or other limited-depth subjects without risk of overexposure
5. Select Auto ISO, lower limit base, upper I'd suggest 3200 or even 6400. Then, much of the time, you can select your desired shutter speed and aperture using the dials and leave the camera to worry about ISO
6. Don't forget the aspect ratio selector around the lens barrel. I find 16:9 great for cityscapes and tend to use the square format a lot for portraits
7. Consider using the MySets for your most-used banks of settings. I have the first set up for general/static subjects, the second for portraits (including the eye-detect AF, which I find works very well) and the third for action
8. Given the small file size, with a fast card the camera can shoot pretty much indefinitely without hitting the buffer at the kinds of firing rates most people use for portraits. So for portraits especially, keep your finger on the button and capture the decisive moment expression-wise - unlike film, space on a card is free
cameraergonomics.blogspot.com.au
camerasergonomics.blogspot.com
