You can probably select any one of those 39 points. Thus you don't have to have the focus point in the center of the image. For sitting wildlife, I will often move the focus point (for example on this birds eye). Focus was critical, since even the front of the 3 inch suet log is not in focus given the shallow depth of field.
I move the focus point with the keys on my camera. I do check focus and correct if necessary (the EVF allows me to magnify), but that is mainly when I am focusing with things in front of the target.FamilyPhotographer said:
Moving the focus point is less important for distant targets ( I am not sure why it would be more difficult - possibly differences in the specific camera). Given the images the OP posted, you could simply use the center focus point/points (given the greater depth of field at those distances slight movement would not affect the focus so you could focus and recompose if you have time). I personally always do a quick 2X multiply focus check (toggle with front button) and manually correct if there is time, but that would not be possible with the OP's camera.
Wow. Fantastic shots!
That's interesting that a smaller sensor helps the focus. Does it make that much difference?
There is much confusion about sensor size and depth of field. The OP used a 300mm lens, my images were with a 283mm lens. The mFTs will actually have a more shallow depth of field (because of the crop) than the Nikon, but will have a less wide field of view. The Nikon will have a field of view equivalent to a 450mm lens, the mFTs will have the field of view of a 566mm lens.
I use a 50-200mm lens with a 1.4 TC which gives the 283mm focal length (and loss of 1 stop). I use CAF, but my lens has mechanically linked focus, so I manually focus to approximate focus and then let the camera autofocus. The hard part is getting the bee in the EVF, once I do that I can follow it, sometimes for a few seconds. Fortunately many insects move in predictable directions which helps with keeping the insect in view. The hardest for me are flying butterflies (no predictable movement) and flying midges (that is completely manual focus and low success rate).
I think the water looks about right, so maybe just use an adjustment brush on the belly... on the one brush you could play with the sliders for temp, tint, saturation, and vibrance.
