VR on the 70-300 f/4.5-5.6

sh00t3r

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Occasionally, I notice that some of my shots aren't sharp (they have what appears to be camera shake). This has happened while using reasonable shutter speeds (reasonable for VR at least). For example, I've had trouble nailing shots of a still object at 200mm with maybe a 1/100 shutter speed.

Anyway, this evening I was shooting at 70mm at 1/100 second, which in theory should be fine for hand holding (I'd say I have a reasonably steady grip). I took a few shots with VR on and noticed a slightly blurred image. I turned off VR and took the exact some shot, and the VR off shot is noticeably sharper.

On the other hand, there have been times when it definitely helps, but why would it make 1/100 worse with it on then off? Maybe I just got lucky and ended up with a sharp VR off shot? At any rate, I would expect a perfectly sharp shot at 1/100 second with VR on, but that didn't happen. See below:





VR off, 100% crop from near center
VR off, 100% crop from near center





VR on, 100% crop
VR on, 100% crop
 
That look like a focus issue, not a VR issue.
 
I sometimes have this issue as well. I start flicking switches back and forth which seems to help (camera on/off, VR on/off, VR Normal/Active). I'm starting to suspect that the lens is trying to compensate for lateral movement when it shouldn't.

Sometimes I forget to make sure VR is off when I mount the lens, perhaps this contributes to the problem. :/
 
All the copies of the 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 VR I've purchased have one of the best VR implementations among VR glass. That said, I default all my VR lenses to OFF. I think VR is a great tool but it's not infallible and is not a substitute for good technique or a support system. It's just a tool to be used when needed and that's what I do, turn it on when it is the best or only solution.

Part of my reasoning is based purely on conjecture and bias. I don't like the idea of electronics moving around optical elements or the sensor when I'm trying to capture the best possible image. I personally have noticed, over the years, instances just like yours where the stabilization seems to have jiggled things and actually added motion blur. This was especially true of a Tamron 70-300 VC I tried to own, but even my expensive Nikon 300 f/2.8 AF-S VRII has failed on rare occasions where I don't believe it was my fault. It usually is, but not sometimes.

In my personal experiences, I've found when using VR, I get a better keeper rate when I have the time to half press the shutter and letting the VR lock on the subject. I know many claim this is not needed, but I've done better when I do this.

Before sending it in for a possible repair and analysis, give it some more time, improve your technique, and see if a little lock time helps for you.

Take care and enjoy your lens. :-)

Here's a great article about Nikon's VR system by photographer Thom Hogan.

All About VR by Thom Hogan

Here's Thom's review of this lens with a little more about its specific VR implementation.

70-300 VR Better than you'd expect for the price.







--
Cheers, Craig
Follow me on Twitter @craighardingsr : Equipment in Profile - f/22 Club Member
I reserve the right to make mistakes in reasoning and logic as well as to change my mind anytime I wish. I also ask forbearance with respect to my typos. Please take a look at my gallery here at DPR.
 
Thanks for the tips, all. I've had his lens on multiple bodies and have occasionally seen this issue, but I will say it's pretty infrequent. I guess I could just turn off VR when I don't need it, but that's one more thing to forget, and it might be off when I really do need it.

It really does seem to work. I was playing around with it last night indoors and took a few shots of a wall calendar at 200mm. I was getting pretty clear shots at very lower shutter speeds, like 1/30 or slower. Maybe I'll do some more experimenting.
 
I have had 2 copies of the 70-300 VR, and both were excellent. Some of the best portraits I have taken have been with the 70-300, and all my wildlife shots are with it. Give it some time, and it will earn a spot in your bag.
 
I got the same lens 3 moths ago and am very happy with it. 100th of a second is pretty slow at 200mm. VR is a nice helper, but it doesn't work miracles.
 
A quote from this forum "If the shots come blurry, find what have you have been doing wrong".

This might be relevant.

The framing of the 2 images is distinctly different - and parts of the subject are not ideal for accurate AF :(

Whether your far from accurate comparison proves anything is open to doubt.

Nikon quote VR using CIPA as 2.5 stops at 300mm on FX with the 70-300 VR.
 
The 70-300 VR has given me some excellent shots. That said, there are situations where VR on will give you a somewhat sharp shot, but VR off is better. As mentioned by others, defaulting to VR off and switching it on when needed is probably the best approach to this.

Also, in contrast to the assertion of one of the other posters, I find the 70-300 VR's VR system underperforming at 300 mm. It's mostly fine at shorter focal lengths, but at 300 mm, the miss rate is higher than I'd like. Other lenses are more consistent.

Good luck!

Occasionally, I notice that some of my shots aren't sharp (they have what appears to be camera shake). This has happened while using reasonable shutter speeds (reasonable for VR at least). For example, I've had trouble nailing shots of a still object at 200mm with maybe a 1/100 shutter speed.

Anyway, this evening I was shooting at 70mm at 1/100 second, which in theory should be fine for hand holding (I'd say I have a reasonably steady grip). I took a few shots with VR on and noticed a slightly blurred image. I turned off VR and took the exact some shot, and the VR off shot is noticeably sharper.

On the other hand, there have been times when it definitely helps, but why would it make 1/100 worse with it on then off? Maybe I just got lucky and ended up with a sharp VR off shot? At any rate, I would expect a perfectly sharp shot at 1/100 second with VR on, but that didn't happen. See below:
 
Cool, thanks. It normally works pretty well, but there's the occasional hiccup. I guess that's to be expected.
 
Back I had a 8 mega pixel camera the 1/shutter speed worked. With 24 mega pixels and 100 crops I would double the shutter speed when leaving VR off.

A little off topic but I prefer the Tamron to the Nikon.
 

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