Canon 6D Auto Exposure Bracketing quirks, avoiding camera shake. Best Practices?

bitpusher

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I've recently upgraded to the full-frame sensor Canon 6D and am used to using Canon's Rebel series cameras with the added Magic Lantern firmware add-on hacks. I have a question about the auto-exposure-bracketing (AEB) quirks of the 6D.

AFAIK, best practices for capturing "tack sharp" images is to use a tripod, remote trigger, mid-range aperture, and use the camera's mirror lockup delay feature. I was able to do this fine on the Rebel series cameras--once the AEB series was triggered remotely, the camera would lock the mirror, wait about a second, expose, and repeat the process through the series of bracketed exposures.

However, on the 6D (firmware 1.1.6), the default AEB behavior is for the camera to require each exposure to be manually triggered (either remotely or using the shutter button). After searching online, others acknowledge this problem and say the solution is to turn on Live View before triggering the bracketed series. However, in that configuration the 6D slaps through the exposures as fast as possible using just the mechanical shutter (the mirror doesn't move during Live View).

While this is better, it's still not "ideal" insofar as the slapping shutter could very well be introducing vibration and increasing movement/shake as more exposures are taken. I could feel the slight vibration when placing by finger on the camera while it was going though the exposures.

Using the Magic Lantern AEB was a little better. Outside of live view, it did run through all AEB exposures, but didn't honor the mirror lockup after the first exposure (quickly slapping the mirror during each exposure). However, in Live View, it did run through all AEB exposures quickly, but did give a slightly longer delay between exposures than the native Canon firmware.

Given these limitations and default behaviors, is the camera shake introduced by the slapping shutter in Canon's default firmware enough to notice or worry about? (I haven't noticed a difference in a few tests, but my test conditions weren't lab-quality).

Have others figured out a better method of getting tack-sharp AEB images with the 6D?
 
the 60D had problems with vibration when used in combination with a microscope lens that made it unusable in that field

did not consider this with the 6D

anyone doing photomacrography or photomicrography using the 6D in the lab ?
 
I've recently upgraded to the full-frame sensor Canon 6D and am used to using Canon's Rebel series cameras with the added Magic Lantern firmware add-on hacks. I have a question about the auto-exposure-bracketing (AEB) quirks of the 6D.

AFAIK, best practices for capturing "tack sharp" images is to use a tripod, remote trigger, mid-range aperture, and use the camera's mirror lockup delay feature. I was able to do this fine on the Rebel series cameras--once the AEB series was triggered remotely, the camera would lock the mirror, wait about a second, expose, and repeat the process through the series of bracketed exposures.
As far as I know, that is incorrect. With a "rebel" you have to press twice when using mirror lock up. Once to lock up the mirror, twice to take a shot. Three bracketed shots take 6 presses. Unless you activate the 2 second delay function? And then the mirror will move up and down for each shot, to **** the shutter.
However, on the 6D (firmware 1.1.6), the default AEB behavior is for the camera to require each exposure to be manually triggered (either remotely or using the shutter button). After searching online, others acknowledge this problem and say the solution is to turn on Live View before triggering the bracketed series. However, in that configuration the 6D slaps through the exposures as fast as possible using just the mechanical shutter (the mirror doesn't move during Live View).

While this is better, it's still not "ideal" insofar as the slapping shutter could very well be introducing vibration and increasing movement/shake as more exposures are taken. I could feel the slight vibration when placing by finger on the camera while it was going though the exposures.
You get the same vibration of the shutter with every rebel. You were ok with it then?
Using the Magic Lantern AEB was a little better. Outside of live view, it did run through all AEB exposures, but didn't honor the mirror lockup after the first exposure (quickly slapping the mirror during each exposure). However, in Live View, it did run through all AEB exposures quickly, but did give a slightly longer delay between exposures than the native Canon firmware.

Given these limitations and default behaviors, is the camera shake introduced by the slapping shutter in Canon's default firmware enough to notice or worry about? (I haven't noticed a difference in a few tests, but my test conditions weren't lab-quality).
No. Not if you are using a not flimsy tripod, or a bean bag.

But you can set the camera with standard firmware the way you want:
  1. Set the AEB to the bracketing you like.
  2. Set the "drive" to 2 second delay/remote.
  3. Set the camera to live view. Press once, 3 shots are taken quickly in succession.
  4. If you worry about the shutter slap, enable Mode 1 or Mode 2 of the live view silent shutter function.
It is that simple ;).

And a quick AEB reset tip: Just turn off the camera and turn it on again. The AEB is rest without having to go through the menu and dialling it to zero.
Have others figured out a better method of getting tack-sharp AEB images with the 6D?
 
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Yep, if you want to bracket using mirror lock up then you have to fire off each shot separately. Using 2sec delay without mirror lock up will fire off all bracketed shots one after the other.

I've never tried bracketing with live view so don't know what happens there.

This doesn't stop you getting 'tack sharp' pics of course does it? It just takes a little longer.

The other way to get 'sharper' pics is to dump your zoom lens for fixed focal length lenses including your 'L' zooms.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

I played with it a bit more, and found that the Silent LV shooting setting had no effect either way. It's nice to trigger the camera to fire off all 5 or 7 bracketed shots with one press quickly (but not too quick)--not only for convenience, but it's better if the clouds or other items don't move too far between shots.

Thus far, the best AEB procedure is to turn on 2-sec delay, lockup, live-view, and let Magic Lantern do the AEB series--Magic Lantern at least puts a small delay between each shot as compared to the native Canon firmware. Now, I don't know if this makes a difference, so I'll have to run a few tests using my 400mm (worst case I can test) on a tripod as soon as I decide not to be so lazy.
 
You get the same vibration of the shutter with every rebel. You were ok with it then?
Thanks for the reply. For whatever reason, the Rebels running Magic Lantern performed MLU+AEB just fine: For each AEB shot, there would be a 2-second delay after locking up the mirror--no need for live view at all, and all of them would fire off automatically.
 
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You get the same vibration of the shutter with every rebel. You were ok with it then?
Thanks for the reply. For whatever reason, the Rebels running Magic Lantern performed MLU+AEB just fine: For each AEB shot, there would be a 2-second delay after locking up the mirror--no need for live view at all, and all of them would fire off automatically.
Ther mirror will move up and down for each shot to recock the shutter, in rebels.
 
Ther mirror will move up and down for each shot to recock the shutter, in rebels.
Indeed. As I wrote, that is fine since the Rebels then pause for the 2-second delay for each AEB exposure (using Magic Lantern). The original reason for my thread is that the 6D doesn't do this whether using ML or not.
 
Ther mirror will move up and down for each shot to recock the shutter, in rebels.
Indeed. As I wrote, that is fine since the Rebels then pause for the 2-second delay for each AEB exposure (using Magic Lantern). The original reason for my thread is that the 6D doesn't do this whether using ML or not.
The rebels move their shutter before each image. So, that is the same as the 6D doing it in live view with 2 second delay, its mirror does not go up and down to **** the shutter and it does not need the 2 second delay for the mirror then.

That is the technical difference between 6D and the rebel line. The rebel like has 1 motor for shutter + mirror, the 6D has separate motors and the mirror can remain up.
 
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Regardless of mirror/shutter motor configurations, the 6D slaps through the AEB exposures quickly (no delay between exposures) whereas the Rebels would do the 2-second mirror/shutter lock-up between each AEB exposure.

In the other thread linked above someone shows how the 5D or 6D's lack of delay between AEB exposures (flapping just the shutter, not the mirror) does introduce shaking.
 

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