Just bought a NX 3300

You've got a big range already. Why not try it out first, and then decide what you need?

David

Pancakes are must have if you wish to have small and powerful camera in one.

The zooms you have are OK uder condition the lighting is nice.

Yea i think i do lol, you think for disney just take a 16mm pancake ? and leave the rest at the house ? dont wanna carry too much

It must depend on the kind of pics that you want to take. I think that, if I had to choose one lens, it would be the shorter zoom. I'm not sure that a wide-angle prime would work in such a busy place, especially if you're trying to get pictures of your children on rides. The 16 mm might be good for taking pictures while on rides yourself, though.

Personally I'd go with the 30mm, it's the most compact lens and the image quality is much better than the 16mm, with great shallow depth of field wide open. It's also just about wide enough for most situations and is great in low light.

However, it's not much use for handheld video as it doesn't have ois. It doesn't have an ifn button either, if that's important to you.

wow i cant believe how everybody response was so quick ! i ended up buying a 16mm and a 30mm lol hope is enough for this trip and low light ! almost bought the 16-50 2.0 haha but maybe i wont needed and the price seemed risky. and its BIG. with these 2 pancake i can fit the camera in my shorts and not worry about it too much ! Thank you again !

Angelgtc87 said:

wow i cant believe how everybody response was so quick ! i ended up buying a 16mm and a 30mm lol hope is enough for this trip and low light ! almost bought the 16-50 2.0 haha but maybe i wont needed and the price seemed risky. and its BIG. with these 2 pancake i can fit the camera in my shorts and not worry about it too much ! Thank you again !

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I'd been tempted to suggest the tiny 16/50 PZ, which I'm enjoying no end - but your solution should be fun!

Don't forget to get a second battery?

Here in the UK, I bought this - about $13 I guess - which also saves the risk of plugging the camera itself into a mains electricity connected device!


Hope you have a great trip - remember that it's not ALL about photography, but do post some pictures either here or on the recently-formed Flickr group for the NX3300.... which rather sadly looks like it needs some oomph to get it going!


Peter

PS Given that it's a big outing, perhaps shoot in RAW+JPG, or at least use auto-bracket for your exposures - to be more sure of coming home with pictures you'll be proud of!

I know right ! that group is so small lol hope this camera gets popular is pretty new....

What's a NX 3300? do you mean a NX3000?

Skipper494 said:

What's a NX 3300? do you mean a NX3000?

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It is a successor to the NX3000, released a few months ago but barely raised a ripple of interest. Very few significant changes except that a free copy of Lightroom is no longer supplied. It is reputed to have a faster processor.

16-50 is great but big, expensive and heavy. Rather predicted for using with NX1 not NX3000.

The solulion can be to buy second NX body they are very very cheap and one use with 16 and the second one with 30/F2 - no changing lenses two batteries two cards - in case of any camera damage we have spare camera.

I always take as a spare camera great compact Panasonic LX7 (zoom 24-90/F1,4-F2,3) and use it very often for fullHD movies.

And I do not agree that pancake 16 is much worse than 30 - my 16/2,4 copy is sharp and quite decent taking into the consideration it is wide angle.

I red many different reviews comparisons - always wide angle lens have some issues even few times moe expensive!

The angle of view sometimes is more important than MTF parameters.

It probably raised a lot of interest in the NX3000 as this has been dumped at bargain prices and with the 16-50 rather than the old long in the focus 20-50. Presumably as the NX3000's are cleared the NX3300 will garner more attention.

Coldamus said:

Skipper494 said:

What's a NX 3300? do you mean a NX3000?

Click to expand...

It is a successor to the NX3000, released a few months ago but barely raised a ripple of interest. Very few significant changes except that a free copy of Lightroom is no longer supplied. It is reputed to have a faster processor.

Click to expand...

i've enough space in my sd and ive been experimenting with bracketing , should i shoot in raw or bracketing jpg. or raw+jpg bracketing. lol i dont wanna come home with 10000 pictures , or just use bracketing in low light?

Angelgtc87 said:

i've enough space in my sd and ive been experimenting with bracketing , should i shoot in raw or bracketing jpg. or raw+jpg bracketing. lol i dont wanna come home with 10000 pictures , or just use bracketing in low light?

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With a bit of experience you'll get to recognise the circumstances where bracketing improves your odds of beating a massaged RAW shot.... so I'd suggest starting off with RAW + JPG, and using maybe +/- 2/3 of a stop for a week or two?

By all means get rid of the extra files in due course, possibly keeping a few more than absolutely necessary to refer back to in 12 months time when conditions may again be similar to those at this time of year?

......................

For the Disney trip, and the 100s or 1000s of shots you're going to take, having 3 or 6 files (taking up circa 84MB of card space) for each exposure could quickly be overwhelming.... so remember that there's also a "One Touch RAW +" feature with which you can "Save a file in the RAW+JPEG format. To save a file in JPEG format, press the button again."

See page 138 of your instruction manual.

This can be used in conjunction with the AEB system.... perhaps with bracketed Fine (or Superfine) JPGs as your normal setting, and then adding RAWs as and when you want. Note though that the function self-cancels rather quickly, so do keep a keen eye on the screen to be sure you're getting what you expect!

All that said, with the convenience of LR for adjusting RAWs, I tend to stick to "RAW+JPG" and only bracket if there are obviously difficult lighting conditions.

Peter

--
Recent, mostly NX3000
https://www.flickr.com/photos/132932913@N02/
Older
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde

If you use RAW than jpg is not needed - it is always included in RAW file and can be seen via Irfan View in resolution you set in the camera.

But I use very often jpg 4k quality (8MP) 16:9 aspect ratio because then I have ready pictures to watch as slide show on tv.

RAW behaves full 3:2 aspect ratio and I can still improove somethig in Lightroom pp.

I think CSC has so many tools for seeing exposition that bracketing is not necessary.

Usually -1/3 EV correction allows to avoid overblown areas and shadows can be corrected in pp.

Sometimes EV is necessary set much more to low i. e small white object on dark background - or set point measuring lighting mode and 0 EV.

Sometimes in difficult conditions - when deep shadows and very bright areas together it is better to take 3-5 identical framed shots with 1-2 EV step and during post processing join them in one to get shadows and lights - simply get HDR picture.

But HDR is not the best for moving objects of course.

Hi, I would like to ask you for a favor, could you please test the buffer clearing time for a burst of jpeg, raw and raw + jpeg images? And also inform us on real buffer depth (number of images in continuous high mode before it slows down)? Just please specify the card you are using.

Grateful in advance, Otto

I purchased an 18 - 55mm OIS lens because the lens that came with the camera is not OIS (Stabalized). The 50 - 200mm is OIS.

I would get the 16 - 50mm OIS....OIS means it has an Image Stabilizer. The one that came with the camera does not.

Get the 16 - 50 mm OIS OIS means it is Image stabalized.