Focusing Problems in Nikon P900

eastwestphoto · Mar 31, 2015

In 24 hrs, and Four phone calls to Nikon USA, I have decided the P900 I bought off eBay, is a defective model, or defective Firmware? In all modes its focus slightly off: AF-S contrast system focuses off in sharpness. Since its a 1/2.3" cell phone sized cmos chip with a 5.6x crop factor the long zoom photos are especially bad in focus. Only way I can get a sharp photo is to put it in MF focus and Tweak it back and forth with the wheel till it looks sharp at 4x mag. Now the EVF Live view shrank the image and put like a picture frame around a smaller image? God I hate this camera. Its a disaster! Is anyone else having sharpness problems , EVF problems? Do I have a lemon? Can anyone help me, Nikon will Not take the camera back as the seller resold the camera on eBay from a Nikon USA dealer in one day? I believe the buyer didnt like this camera either. I know now Nikon has No quality control and bad customer service. Stay away from Nikon, especially this plagued model P900. Don@eastwestphoto

raywes · Mar 31, 2015

Its pretty simple and something I live by, when in doubt, send it back!! I have had dozens of digital cameras in my lifetime, none that I have ever considered defective or a "bad" copy. However I have sent back several DSLR lenses that I was certain were bad copies, just couldn't get a sharp image even in great light and steady hands. This camera seems to be a pretty solid performer but there are instances being reported of some bad copies circulating I have read.

eastwestphoto · Apr 1, 2015

Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

sherman_levine · Apr 1, 2015

What are AF-C and AF-FF ?

I can't find them in the P900 manual.

I do see a "Full Time AF" which relates only to movie mode.

Stephen Ingraham · Apr 1, 2015

eastwestphoto said:
Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

No offence intended to you...

I do not know where you got this, but it is total nonsense. Take a look at any of the excellent, sharp, correctly focused, hand held images posted in the P900 threads here. You do NOT need a tripod. Some people, including me, have found that the Manual Focus Area / Normal works better than the Manual Focus Area / Spot...but both work, and give excellent, rapid, reliable focus...

on a camera that is working right. Yours might indeed be a lemon.

eastwestphoto · Apr 1, 2015

Once i put all the modes in AF-S in menu setup, I was able to get the camera to work better. As I went through the menu modes, I noticed they were all factory defaulted to Continous AF in a wide AF box with Matrix metering? This I determine is the problem as 2000mm does not work very well at all for AF-C focus and causes massive hunting. Tripod & MF focus is really outstanding. Those reviewers who are paid by Nikon to review must have used a Tripod & AF-S or MF focus. Of course if i sold the camera on ebay today, it will sell fast as its a USA seller, which is rare.... Don

CCarolann · Jun 5, 2015

I also have focus problems. I have had 3 good pictures turn out out of over 100. I have tried Auto, every event shooting. Even with a tripod the pictures are blurish on zoom. With out using the zoom the picture is good. I hate this camera!

Stephen Ingraham · Jun 7, 2015

CCarolann said:
I also have focus problems. I have had 3 good pictures turn out out of over 100. I have tried Auto, every event shooting. Even with a tripod the pictures are blurish on zoom. With out using the zoom the picture is good. I hate this camera!

Standard advice for focus problems, no matter what camera. Always half press the shutter release and let the camera find focus (only takes a second). Then press the shutter the rest of the way to take the pic.

Augustin Man · Jun 7, 2015

eastwestphoto said:
Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

No! Just check this handheld out:

Happy shooting,

Augustin

clayton4115 · Dec 14, 2015

eastwestphoto said:
Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

all what you said i believe completely, because i have had this camera for 2 weeks now and at full zoom no matter what i tried i do not get sharp images!

Stephen Ingraham · Dec 14, 2015

clayton4115 said:
eastwestphoto said:

Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

Click to expand...

all what you said i believe completely, because i have had this camera for 2 weeks now and at full zoom no matter what i tried i do not get sharp images!

If you are not getting sharp images headheld at 2000mm then something is wrong with your camera...or with your technique. I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers . It takes some practice, but handholding the P900 can be done...and in my opinion it is worth the effort to learn. Why use a Point and Shoot if you have to carry a tripod anyway?

sherman_levine · Dec 14, 2015

Stephen Ingraham said:
If you are not getting sharp images headheld at 2000mm then something is wrong with your camera...or with your technique. I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers . It takes some practice, but handholding the P900 can be done...and in my opinion it is worth the effort to learn. Why use a Point and Shoot if you have to carry a tripod anyway?

Excellent article. Thank you for the link

Augustin Man · Dec 15, 2015

A very useful tutorial, with wonderful images!

Thank you for sharing it, Stephen!

All the best,

Augustin

myssvictoria · Dec 15, 2015

Stephen, I have been using your stand at an angle technique lately and it really helps my stability when shooting.

To the original poster and others having difficulties, perhaps you have defective copies. I have frustrations with this camera, but focusing is not one of them.

Stephen Ingraham said:
If you are not getting sharp images headheld at 2000mm then something is wrong with your camera...or with your technique. I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers . It takes some practice, but handholding the P900 can be done...and in my opinion it is worth the effort to learn. Why use a Point and Shoot if you have to carry a tripod anyway?

sherman_levine · Dec 15, 2015

myssvictoria said:
Stephen, I have been using your stand at an angle technique lately and it really helps my stability when shooting.

To the original poster and others having difficulties, perhaps you have defective copies. I have frustrations with this camera, but focusing is not one of them.

Stephen Ingraham said:

If you are not getting sharp images headheld at 2000mm then something is wrong with your camera...or with your technique. I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers . It takes some practice, but handholding the P900 can be done...and in my opinion it is worth the effort to learn. Why use a Point and Shoot if you have to carry a tripod anyway?

Click to expand...

myssvictoria · Dec 15, 2015

sherman_levine said:
myssvictoria said:

Stephen, I have been using your stand at an angle technique lately and it really helps my stability when shooting.

To the original poster and others having difficulties, perhaps you have defective copies. I have frustrations with this camera, but focusing is not one of them.

Click to expand...

sherman_levine said:
Grab your right shoulder with your left hand and rest the camera on your left arm is often a useful alternative. My right hand shakes a bit and I find this maximizes stability

That's a great technique, too. Might help with balance as that big lens zooms out.

This is what I use to help with that issue, something I've posted before:

This has made it much easier for me to handle the P900, keeping it more steady than without. But that's just me.

--
Vickie
Do not confuse experience for knowledge or skill.
Please Mr. Ichiro Kitao, give me a Wildlife Zoom camera (WZ) with a 200 - 2000mm reach and able to take a TC, and with a fast lens and all the goodies to make it fast operationally. And with a big, beautiful EVF. Come on, let's exploit the strengths of a small sensor.
myFlickr
myP900pics
myFZ200pics
myFZ70pics

clayton4115 · Dec 15, 2015

hello Stephen

some great tips there, thanks I will take all that on board, however i wish nikon had in the evf the ability to see where your zoom level is, currently they only have a bar on the top from left to right to let you know what zoom level you are at, but it is a guesstimate for the photographer to see where he is either 1400 or 1800 etc looking through the evf.

Mcbrig · Dec 15, 2015

Stephen Ingraham said:
clayton4115 said:

eastwestphoto said:

Updated info: In the Nikon P900 the camera MUST be mounted on a tripod fromm 800~2000mm if autofocus is too be used; in the AF-S Mode! this is really important. The firmware programming in Auto allows the camera to attempt to focus in AF-C or AF-FF which is impossible for hand held or moving subjects at 2000mm to be focuses correctly even in very bright light in Auto ISO. A 1/2.3" chip @ 357mm is a 5.6x cropping factor of excessive camera shake. While Nikon states a VR system of 5x , there is NO vibration reduction that is effective at 2000mm other than a tripod and MF mode for this camera. So put the camera in MF mode and do it yourself! The lens is very good , even at 2,000mm, BUT the focusing modes programmed in the firmware are incorrect to assume a moving subject or hand held subject can be accurately focused by AF-C or AF-FF. Personally i reprogrammed every mode on the camera to be in AF-S. Even then it will hunt and lock incorrectly; so you try again, till the camera AF-S gets it right? If it cannot get it right, switch the focusing mode to MF, and do it yourself by turning the wheel toggling back and forth till its sharp. I use No peaking and 4x magnify to do this task. I recommended to Nikon that they re-do the firmware ASAP!

In closing the camera will work, the quick guide is NOT written to WARN the user of the technical PROBLEMS this 2000mm lens equivalent can cause in AF-C or AF-FF modes! Even in the Scene modes for the Moon, MF is more accurate than its programmed firmware mode can handle. A cloud passing drives the system crazy. Use MF mode. Best regards, Don@eastwestphoto

Click to expand...

all what you said i believe completely, because i have had this camera for 2 weeks now and at full zoom no matter what i tried i do not get sharp images!

Click to expand...

If you are not getting sharp images headheld at 2000mm then something is wrong with your camera...or with your technique. I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers . It takes some practice, but handholding the P900 can be done...and in my opinion it is worth the effort to learn. Why use a Point and Shoot if you have to carry a tripod anyway?

Very good article as yours always are, much appreciated, I am sure by many!!

But to say something is wrong with your camera because you can not get sharp images at 2000mm hand held is really stretching it.

Granted you get very good pics hand held at higher zoom rates, and the techniques you use are most helpful, but in my opinion you are one of the lucky ones to be able to achieve these results.

Not sure why a Point and Shoot means you should not need to use a tripod or other steadying device to get the best IQ out of the P900?

mcb49’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

Francis E · Dec 16, 2015

Stephen Ingraham said:
Stephen Ingraham said:

I have some tips for holding this, or any superzoom, in my blog at Point and Shoot for Warblers .

Click to expand...

Stephen, you mentioned Dragonflies in your blog. I found that the top speed on the P900 wasn't enough to stop the wings. I needed at least 1/6400s, and ideally 1/8000s.

Stephen Ingraham · Dec 16, 2015

Yes...I never get the wings frozen on dragonflies. There a high powered flash is about the only way.

Focusing Problems in Nikon P900

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