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[Pic] Ansel's Gold Toner?

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Joe Lacy

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I wrote a little action to convert to black and white and then apply an effect that close to what Ansel used in his silver prints. I think I may have gotten pretty close. If anyone wants this for some reason, then PM me.

The small image in the top corner one I found of St. Ansel's and mine is underneath it. I want going for TONER here. How close does this look?

 
Looks good Joe, can you post the atn so we can try it out?

regards,
Haydn
 
Hello Joe,

Great effect. Would like to have the action. Thanks.

William
Joe Lacy said:
I wrote a little action to convert to black and white and then
apply an effect that close to what Ansel used in his silver prints.
I think I may have gotten pretty close. If anyone wants this for
some reason, then PM me.

The small image in the top corner one I found of St. Ansel's and
mine is underneath it. I want going for TONER here. How close does
this look?

Click to expand...
--
http://www.ImageEvent.com/WCheng999/
 
Very nice color, Joe. Hard to tell from the dark Adams shot how close you are. I have found that the easiest way to match a monochrome color I like, if I have a sample, is simply to use the eye dropper on a midtone part of its image and then fill a blank layer with it with the blend mode set to color. Can save it as a swatch or an image.
Bill
 
How we toned b4:

We would expose 2 shets of 8x10 peice of photo paper under the enlarger until it reached Dmax. (max back a paper and paper/developer will produce). Develop, Stop, fix, wash and dry.

Cut ONE of the 8x10 papers into strips 1" wide. Write on the back with a marker 10, 20, 40, 60, 80, 120, 160. These represent seconds.

Make up your toner to suggested specs. Place all the strips in the solution marked side up and start the timer. At 10 seconds, pull the 10 sec strip out and put it in the wash, 20sec strip at 20, 40 at 40 and so on until you reached 160 seconds.

Wash them all for 20 minutes and then dry completly. There IS a dry down factor, some papers as much as 15%, so they had to be completly dry. Compare the tones strips until you find the right "tone". You wanted to deepen the black but not totally shift it. If there was a radical shift (like to red) then it was too much.

Let's say, it went too far at 160 but didn't go far enough at 120. Then you would take your other sheet of paper and cut them into strips at 120, 130, 140, 150 and 160 and do the tests again. Fine the right black and that would become the baseline for all your toning with that paper and developer and toner ratio.

Personally, I like the one click action better. :-)
 
I can see why you like one click more! But I'm sure the darkroom way was, as we used to say in the Navy when everything had to be done the hard way, more "rewarding"!
Warm regards, Bill
 
Bill,

I'd like to understand this a bit better, if you will indulge my simple questions.
Bill M said:
Very nice color, Joe.
Click to expand...
Here you are referring to the tones of gray right?
Bill M said:
Hard to tell from the dark Adams shot how
close you are.
Click to expand...
I assume here that you mean it is hard to tell that the same gray gradients were used because of the predominant darker tones of the Adam's pic.
Bill M said:
I have found that the easiest way to match a
monochrome color I like,
Click to expand...
Here, do you mean an overall mix of grayscale tones, rather than just one?
Bill M said:
if I have a sample, is simply to use the
eye dropper on a midtone part of its image
Click to expand...
If you like the overall 'tonality' (sorry feivel) of a particular image you take the eye dropper to the shade closest to 128?
Bill M said:
and then fill a blank
layer with it with the blend mode set to color.
Click to expand...
Create a new layer (in the target image where you are attempting to duplicate the tone of the source image), and fill with the color sampled and blending in layers set to color.
Bill M said:
Can save it as a
swatch or an image.
Click to expand...
Save it as a swatch so you can use it again in other pics, or as a image both of which can be used for sampling.

Just wanting to make sure... thanks
--
Kent
http://www.pbase.com/kentc
 
Joe,

On my monitor (profiled meticulously with Adobe Gamma, but no hardware), your image seems a bit warmer to me than the Adams image.

I haven't checked out the action yet, so I don't know what it does, but if you are using a gradient map, it is probably just choosing a bit of a cooler color. If you are converting to greyscale (and hopefully using a channel mask) and then doing a duotone, then you'll have to work it out with all those funky curves. :)

Just my tidbit of input,

Gabriel
Joe Lacy said:
I wrote a little action to convert to black and white and then
apply an effect that close to what Ansel used in his silver prints.
I think I may have gotten pretty close. If anyone wants this for
some reason, then PM me.

The small image in the top corner one I found of St. Ansel's and
mine is underneath it. I want going for TONER here. How close does
this look?

Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/gdillon (pbase supporter)
 
Kent C said:
I'd like to understand this a bit better, if you will indulge my
simple questions.
Kent C said:
Very nice color, Joe.
Click to expand...
Here you are referring to the tones of gray right?
Kent C said:
Hard to tell from the dark Adams shot how
close you are.
Click to expand...
I assume here that you mean it is hard to tell that the same gray
gradients were used because of the predominant darker tones of the
Adam's pic.
Kent C said:
I have found that the easiest way to match a
monochrome color I like,
Click to expand...
Here, do you mean an overall mix of grayscale tones, rather than
just one?
Kent C said:
if I have a sample, is simply to use the
eye dropper on a midtone part of its image
Click to expand...
If you like the overall 'tonality' (sorry feivel) of a particular
image you take the eye dropper to the shade closest to 128?
Kent C said:
and then fill a blank
layer with it with the blend mode set to color.
Click to expand...
Create a new layer (in the target image where you are attempting to
duplicate the tone of the source image), and fill with the color
sampled and blending in layers set to color.
Kent C said:
Can save it as a
swatch or an image.
Click to expand...
Save it as a swatch so you can use it again in other pics, or as a
image both of which can be used for sampling.

Just wanting to make sure... thanks
--
Kent
http://www.pbase.com/kentc
Click to expand...
--
Kent
http://www.pbase.com/kentc
 
Sorry, Kent. Didn't see your post!
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Very nice color, Joe.
Click to expand...
Here you are referring to the tones of gray right?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Well, it's not really grey, but yes, we are talking about a single brown tint applied across all tones. Joe has created a specific monochrome color using Color Balance (one of about 50 ways to do the same thing.) As VG would say, it's "global", not different for the lights and darks, as say a duotone would be.
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Hard to tell from the dark Adams shot how
close you are.
Click to expand...
I assume here that you mean it is hard to tell that the same gray
gradients were used because of the predominant darker tones of the
Adam's pic.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Yes. My eyes looks at the midtones to compare color, and Ansel's only has a few places, like the small sandbar in the left side of the tidal pool. Joe's has the window screens. If you take a color sample of each, however, you can compare how close they are.
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
I have found that the easiest way to match a
monochrome color I like,
Click to expand...
Here, do you mean an overall mix of grayscale tones, rather than
just one?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
No, a single tint color.
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
if I have a sample, is simply to use the
eye dropper on a midtone part of its image
Click to expand...
If you like the overall 'tonality' (sorry feivel) of a particular
image you take the eye dropper to the shade closest to 128?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I'm not a numbers guy, I just eyeball with a little trial and error. But you are probably on to something there.
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
and then fill a blank
layer with it with the blend mode set to color.
Click to expand...
Create a new layer (in the target image where you are attempting to
duplicate the tone of the source image), and fill with the color
sampled and blending in layers set to color.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Exactly.
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Kent C said:
Can save it as a
swatch or an image.
Click to expand...
Save it as a swatch so you can use it again in other pics, or as a
image both of which can be used for sampling.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
That's what I mean. In fact if you use the color in the default swatch palette "Dark Cool Brown", you'll get a pretty close version of the one Joe created. To use Joe's, I could just sample and save. You can create duotones the same way using the duotone dialog's eyedropper. Pretty cool. I played with that yesterday. In fact below is an image with a duotone I created from black and the exact yellow sampled from the front of the CSX engine.

 
Bill M

Thanks. Except for the color, I seem to be on track (pun intended).
CSX is my employer.
Bill M said:
That's what I mean. In fact if you use the color in the default
swatch palette "Dark Cool Brown", you'll get a pretty close version
of the one Joe created. To use Joe's, I could just sample and save.
You can create duotones the same way using the duotone dialog's
eyedropper. Pretty cool. I played with that yesterday. In fact
below is an image with a duotone I created from black and the exact
yellow sampled from the front of the CSX engine.
Click to expand...
Another good tip. Thanks.
Bill M said:
http://www.pbase.com/image/19125726
Click to expand...
--
Kent
http://www.pbase.com/kentc
 
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