Adapted Manual Lens Problem

The best solution is to set the camera on aperture priority as rodriguezPhoto said. Set the f-stop on the lens and then set the same f-stop in the camera. The camera will then choose the correct shutter speed for the given aperture (and ISO). Exposure compensation should then work properly because the camera will adjust the shutter speed and/or ISO accordingly.
 
You need to go back to basics - what effect on your photos changes in shutter speed and/or aperture have!

In S mode, you choose a shutter speed for a specific intent -eg stopping motion with a short SS - and the camera's auto-exp. (which can do nothing "internally") adjusts aperture for a neutral exposure. Exp. comp. will offset exposure one way or the other through aperture changes. You might have to boost ISO, or go to auto-ISO setting to achive the short SS you want if with the lens wide-open the image is still under-exposed.

In A mode, your priority is setting aperture according to the depth of field in focus you want - shallow with wide aperture, eg. - and shutter speed is of secondary concern, as long as it's fast enough to stop any motion you're concerned about and hand-holdable. Exp. comp changes the shutter speed up or down.

So basically, S or A mode simply fixes the variable you are most concerned about in your image to a set point you choose. P mode lets you scroll through the possible combinations of A and SS that yield the same exposure, with exp. comp. alternately offsetting one variable, then the other. Since DOF is generally my main concern, I am in A mode except in nature shooting in S mode with my 100-300mm lens, where a high SS is mandatory.
I appreciate the help but I know and understand everything you just wrote. But you still didn't really answer my question. I feel that we can achieve the exact same result with either modes with no extra effort in either. Is this true? Because in S mode for example, we get to control shutter speed as well as exposure compensation. The camera takes care of aperture control. But when we adjust exposure compensation, the camera is effectively adjusting aperture. Does this not also affect the depth of field? So I can still control depth of field by adjusting exposure compensation? And vice versa for A mode.
 
I do a lot of long exposures and use K-mounts as well in Manual with a Panasonic. I'm using NDs and a tripod, so those numbers have to be accurate.

I've noticed that I have to repeatedly go back and half-press the shutter button or the meter won't respond accurately to the change in shutter speed. I might change the shutter speed by a full stop in Manual mode, but the meter won't react until I half-press.

It does the same with the OEM or adapted lenses, but I notice it more with the legacy lenses.
 
The best solution is to set the camera on aperture priority as rodriguezPhoto said. Set the f-stop on the lens and then set the same f-stop in the camera.
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
The camera will then choose the correct shutter speed for the given aperture (and ISO). Exposure compensation should then work properly because the camera will adjust the shutter speed and/or ISO accordingly.
 
The best solution is to set the camera on aperture priority as rodriguezPhoto said. Set the f-stop on the lens and then set the same f-stop in the camera.
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
The camera will then choose the correct shutter speed for the given aperture (and ISO). Exposure compensation should then work properly because the camera will adjust the shutter speed and/or ISO accordingly.
 
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
Hang on, if you can't set the F-stop in the camera, then how will it automatically adjust shutter speed? It wouldn't really know what aperture to base on would it? Or does it just rely on the amount of light coming in?
 
You need to go back to basics - what effect on your photos changes in shutter speed and/or aperture have!

In S mode, you choose a shutter speed for a specific intent -eg stopping motion with a short SS - and the camera's auto-exp. (which can do nothing "internally") adjusts aperture for a neutral exposure. Exp. comp. will offset exposure one way or the other through aperture changes. You might have to boost ISO, or go to auto-ISO setting to achive the short SS you want if with the lens wide-open the image is still under-exposed.

In A mode, your priority is setting aperture according to the depth of field in focus you want - shallow with wide aperture, eg. - and shutter speed is of secondary concern, as long as it's fast enough to stop any motion you're concerned about and hand-holdable. Exp. comp changes the shutter speed up or down.

So basically, S or A mode simply fixes the variable you are most concerned about in your image to a set point you choose. P mode lets you scroll through the possible combinations of A and SS that yield the same exposure, with exp. comp. alternately offsetting one variable, then the other. Since DOF is generally my main concern, I am in A mode except in nature shooting in S mode with my 100-300mm lens, where a high SS is mandatory.
I appreciate the help but I know and understand everything you just wrote. But you still didn't really answer my question. I feel that we can achieve the exact same result with either modes with no extra effort in either. Is this true? Because in S mode for example, we get to control shutter speed as well as exposure compensation. The camera takes care of aperture control. But when we adjust exposure compensation, the camera is effectively adjusting aperture. Does this not also affect the depth of field? So I can still control depth of field by adjusting exposure compensation? And vice versa for A mode.
Not really, as far as I know the adjustment of EV of itself does nothing - it merely over-rides and adjusts the cameras own exposure meter reading. From then on the camera mechanism acts as normal to the dictates of the now adjusted exposure meter setting.
 
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
Hang on, if you can't set the F-stop in the camera, then how will it automatically adjust shutter speed? It wouldn't really know what aperture to base on would it? Or does it just rely on the amount of light coming in?
Yes, it just depends on the amount of light coming in, and you determine that by setting the f-stop on the lens.
 
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
Hang on, if you can't set the F-stop in the camera, then how will it automatically adjust shutter speed? It wouldn't really know what aperture to base on would it? Or does it just rely on the amount of light coming in?
It's like operating an early SLR with aperture-priority automatic exposure (shutter priority and program modes came later): Set aperture using the lens adjustment collar and the camera varies shutter speed to maintain exposure via the meter.

As I noted before, Auto-ISO (if enabled) will kick in at some point with the E-M10 because the camera will try to keep the shutter speed at or above above a certain level. And, since you have IBIS, you also tell it what focal length you're using so it can provide image stabilization.

It's all a lot easier to do than to describe. But I double-checked my cameras and they do support S mode with manual lenses, regardless of whether that's the best mode to use, so it seems yours is acting oddly.

The easiest way to master manual lenses might be M mode with a fixed ISO and setting exposure by the histogram. That way you get used to adjusting both aperture and shutter speed to get the effect you want.

Cheers,

Rick
 
Not really, as far as I know the adjustment of EV of itself does nothing - it merely over-rides and adjusts the cameras own exposure meter reading. From then on the camera mechanism acts as normal to the dictates of the now adjusted exposure meter setting.
But surely, in S mode the shutter value becomes fixed when you set it. If the lens is a MFT one, when you turn the exposure compensation the diaphragm gets adjusted, to give a brighter or darker picture, and the DoF varies accordingly (as suggested above). But if the lens is an adapted one, the aperture won't budge through commands from the camera, therefore the only way to do exposure compensation is by changing the aperture ring in the lens itself.
 
If you can't adjust the aperture when the switch is on Auto, you have one of the adapters without the 'ledge' behind the screw threads, so you'll need to ensure you set the switch on Man (unless you want to shoot with the lens fully open).
Thanks for the help! But this is actually something I never fully understood when researching which adapter to get. So what exactly is the difference between setting it on Manual and Auto if the adapter has this "ledge"? I mean, on Manual, you have full control of the aperture and on Auto, with the pin pushed in, the aperture remains wide open and only stops down to the selected f-stop during exposure but this would only work on a 35mm camera. So what's the point of having an adapter with the ledge?
In the case of your Super Tak and other lenses with an Auto/Manual switch, it doesn't matter if the adapter has a "ledge" or not (provided you keep the switch set to Manual), but there are lots of M42 lenses that are Auto-only and don't have that switch. In those cases you need an adapter with the "ledge" to disengage the rear pin on the lens or you need to find a way to keep the pin depressed, perhaps by taping it down.

Cheers

Brian
 
You can't set f-stop in camera with an adapted lens. The rest of your stetement is correct.
Hang on, if you can't set the F-stop in the camera, then how will it automatically adjust shutter speed? It wouldn't really know what aperture to base on would it? Or does it just rely on the amount of light coming in?
It's like operating an early SLR with aperture-priority automatic exposure (shutter priority and program modes came later): Set aperture using the lens adjustment collar and the camera varies shutter speed to maintain exposure via the meter.

As I noted before, Auto-ISO (if enabled) will kick in at some point with the E-M10 because the camera will try to keep the shutter speed at or above above a certain level. And, since you have IBIS, you also tell it what focal length you're using so it can provide image stabilization.

It's all a lot easier to do than to describe. But I double-checked my cameras and they do support S mode with manual lenses, regardless of whether that's the best mode to use, so it seems yours is acting oddly.
My E-M10 behaves the same way as the OP's. With the adapted lens mounted in S mode, the rear display histogram and Exposure Compensation scale doesn't change no matter what shutter speed I set and there's no way of knowing the 'correct' exposure. Adjusting the front Exposure Compensation dial changes the histogram and EC scale and dims or brightens the display but the actual exposure doesn't change.

Cheers

Brian
 
It's all a lot easier to do than to describe. But I double-checked my cameras and they do support S mode with manual lenses, regardless of whether that's the best mode to use, so it seems yours is acting oddly.
What exactly do you mean by "support"? I mean, my camera "supports" S mode with manual lenses. Shutter speed control works and I can see the exposure compensation changing the look of the image and the values on the viewfinder, but it just makes no difference to the final picture. Someone earlier reported that this happens to them also. Is this not the case for you?
 
[...]

Not really, as far as I know the adjustment of EV of itself does nothing - it merely over-rides and adjusts the cameras own exposure meter reading. From then on the camera mechanism acts as normal to the dictates of the now adjusted exposure meter setting.
But surely, in S mode the shutter value becomes fixed when you set it. If the lens is a MFT one, when you turn the exposure compensation the diaphragm gets adjusted, to give a brighter or darker picture, and the DoF varies accordingly (as suggested above). But if the lens is an adapted one, the aperture won't budge through commands from the camera, therefore the only way to do exposure compensation is by changing the aperture ring in the lens itself.
 
Basically, when I have the camera set to Manual, the shutter dial won't change anything at times. I would turn it this way and that and the number would move for a split second and then return to the way it was. It's not always like this and I haven't quite worked out what is making it work and what is not. Sometimes taking a picture would affect it but then again, sometimes not. I tried it 5 minutes ago for example and it just won't budge but now, it's working perfectly. This never happens on my new lenses though.
Aargh. Marcus, you broke my EM5. Nothing happens in M mode now when I turn the shutter dial. Just like your EM10.

Wait...I had reset my camera in the field last week and a lot of little things got changed. For me, in Menu B, dial function in M mode had flipped F-No and Shuter, so I was spinning the wrong dial.
 
You need to go back to basics - what effect on your photos changes in shutter speed and/or aperture have!

In S mode, you choose a shutter speed for a specific intent -eg stopping motion with a short SS - and the camera's auto-exp. (which can do nothing "internally") adjusts aperture for a neutral exposure. Exp. comp. will offset exposure one way or the other through aperture changes. You might have to boost ISO, or go to auto-ISO setting to achive the short SS you want if with the lens wide-open the image is still under-exposed.

In A mode, your priority is setting aperture according to the depth of field in focus you want - shallow with wide aperture, eg. - and shutter speed is of secondary concern, as long as it's fast enough to stop any motion you're concerned about and hand-holdable. Exp. comp changes the shutter speed up or down.

So basically, S or A mode simply fixes the variable you are most concerned about in your image to a set point you choose. P mode lets you scroll through the possible combinations of A and SS that yield the same exposure, with exp. comp. alternately offsetting one variable, then the other. Since DOF is generally my main concern, I am in A mode except in nature shooting in S mode with my 100-300mm lens, where a high SS is mandatory.
I appreciate the help but I know and understand everything you just wrote. But you still didn't really answer my question. I feel that we can achieve the exact same result with either modes with no extra effort in either. Is this true? Because in S mode for example, we get to control shutter speed as well as exposure compensation. The camera takes care of aperture control. But when we adjust exposure compensation, the camera is effectively adjusting aperture. Does this not also affect the depth of field? So I can still control depth of field by adjusting exposure compensation? And vice versa for A mode.
In looking at your gallery it's clear that you know how to manipulate shutter speed and aperture, and to use exp. comp., but I am mystified that you think exp. comp. can simply control aperture for DOF control independant of over-brightening or darkening the whole scene.

With a fixed SS (S priority), only one aperture setting will give the zero-comp neutral setting, which is chosen automatically.

And the same when choosing an aperture setting you desire in Aperture priority, but with only one SS...

Pete
 
I don't understand why you insist on using S mode when it makes no sense, and know that it won't work. The camera is completely un-aware of aperture and can't change it. If you force a given speed, how is the camera supposed to adjust aperture? It can't. All it knows is how much light there is, and will set the speed to match IF in A mode. You don't say if your adapter allows the aperture to close or not. If not, then there is only one speed and aperture combo (wide open) that is possible for a correctly exposed image for any given situation. You can play with auto ISO, and I am guessing that EV compensation can be achieved that way in theory but have not tried it (still waiting for my OM to m43 adapter). Just set the camera to A mode, that will make your life a lot easier.

--
Roger
 
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I don't understand why you insist on using S mode when it makes no sense, and know that it won't work. The camera is completely un-aware of aperture and can't change it. If you force a given speed, how is the camera supposed to adjust aperture? It can't. All it knows is how much light there is, and will set the speed to match IF in A mode. You don't say if your adapter allows the aperture to close or not. If not, then there is only one speed and aperture combo (wide open) that is possible for a correctly exposed image for any given situation. You can play with auto ISO, and I am guessing that EV compensation can be achieved that way in theory but have not tried it (still waiting for my OM to m43 adapter). Just set the camera to A mode, that will make your life a lot easier.

--
Roger
I fully agree.

In fact, with the E-M10 in S mode, I'm not even sure that the camera understands how much light is coming through the lens. You can set any ridiculous shutter speed you like and the histogram will still indicate that a valid exposure is possible. For example I can set a speed of 1/4000sec in a dimly lit room and the camera's display will suggest that a valid exposure is possible. Press the shutter, though, and the recorded exposure is (as expected) fully black.

Cheers

Brian
 
In looking at your gallery it's clear that you know how to manipulate shutter speed and aperture, and to use exp. comp., but I am mystified that you think exp. comp. can simply control aperture for DOF control independant of over-brightening or darkening the whole scene.

With a fixed SS (S priority), only one aperture setting will give the zero-comp neutral setting, which is chosen automatically.

And the same when choosing an aperture setting you desire in Aperture priority, but with only one SS...

Pete
Well the thing is, as a hobbyist, I studied everything myself by reading guides and whatever books I could find but there were things that I never quite understood and simply needed them to be explained to me. So I was able to grasp fundamentals like aperture, shutter speed etc. and what effects they have. But I never understood what Exposure Compensation was actually doing until this thread when people started telling me that when you adjust EC, you are just adjusting shutter speed or aperture, depending on if the camera is in A or S mode. Logically from that, I would assume that you'd still be able to achieve a variety of DoFs by adjusting the EC in S mode for example. I never did that myself as you can see from my gallery but that's the conclusion I got from what everyone was saying.

I didn't have my camera with me before to check but now that I do, I can see that in S mode, adjusting exposure compensation seems to have no affect on the aperture after a certain point and yet, the overall exposure is still brightening and darkening. So what is making that happen? I understand this is probably extremely frustrating trying to explain something so simple so I totally understand if you get annoyed or don't respond :)
 
I don't understand why you insist on using S mode when it makes no sense, and know that it won't work. The camera is completely un-aware of aperture and can't change it. If you force a given speed, how is the camera supposed to adjust aperture? It can't. All it knows is how much light there is, and will set the speed to match IF in A mode. You don't say if your adapter allows the aperture to close or not. If not, then there is only one speed and aperture combo (wide open) that is possible for a correctly exposed image for any given situation. You can play with auto ISO, and I am guessing that EV compensation can be achieved that way in theory but have not tried it (still waiting for my OM to m43 adapter). Just set the camera to A mode, that will make your life a lot easier.
 

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