JurijTurnsek
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Power zoom can be controlled with the zoom rocker to be very slow and smooth. Just takes some practice. I never had any jitters, that is probably down to hand-holding it.
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So so so true!Not perfect, but like you say, few cameras are. That said, had you ever seen the menus on prior NEX menus - the A6000's menu would seem as logical as a dictionary!
I only use the power zoom slider when I'm on manual focus mode otherwise I prefer to turn my lens to zoom. Like I said I debated buying the kit lens & over-all I like my version.Power zoom can be controlled with the zoom rocker to be very slow and smooth. Just takes some practice. I never had any jitters, that is probably down to hand-holding it.
I only use the power zoom slider when I'm on manual focus mode otherwise I prefer to turn my lens to zoom. Like I said I debated buying the kit lens & over-all I like my version.Power zoom can be controlled with the zoom rocker to be very slow and smooth. Just takes some practice. I never had any jitters, that is probably down to hand-holding it.
I only use the power zoom slider when I'm on manual focus mode otherwise I prefer to turn my lens to zoom. Like I said I debated buying the kit lens & over-all I like my version.Power zoom can be controlled with the zoom rocker to be very slow and smooth. Just takes some practice. I never had any jitters, that is probably down to hand-holding it.
I guess in a pinch you can do this to improve the AF performance. But otherwise I would leave this on all the time. A mirrorless advantage is the fact you can see on your EVF/LCD your image effects live.Turning off the Settings Effect will leave the lens at its largest aperture until the shutter is activated allowing more light into the camera for AF. This is also how DSLRs work. The EVF just gives extra functionality where having the lens stop down allows showing the image in the EVF, or on the LCD, as it would be captured. In low light though, this functionality gets in the way, and needs to be turned off.
Thank you
Russell
I have a license to C1P but so far I've been mainly playing around with the JPG's. Have not shot much in raw although I have edited some a6000 web raw images test shot for fun.Sony has a contract with C1 that will get you a free copy of the software (not a trial) and reduces the price for the PRO upgrade (i.e. full suite) for $30, or 90% off. The free version is totally adequate. It's the best raw converter I've used for the a6000.
No connection to C1. I wasn't quite happy with the a6000 until I found a converter that could handle the files well. I had to spend far too much time working color balance on every frame with LR, for example.
I found with both my next-5 and my NEX-7 that if you turn off the focus assist light it will actually stop defaulting to the larger focus "guess" area and actually focus much better in low lightFocus seems to be quick, really quick, in good lighting. Though, in low-light, it doesn't lock on the focus point and often defaults to the larger area (seems to be equivalent to a focus "guess"). My D7100 can focus in near black comparatively.
If anyone has any suggestions for any of the above mentioned items please feel free...
That's true of those cameras, but with the 1.2 firmware the a6000 does finally use the focus assist light properly. I did some tests last night and confirmed that it's worth turning on again.I found with both my next-5 and my NEX-7 that if you turn off the focus assist light it will actually stop defaulting to the larger focus "guess" area and actually focus much better in low lightFocus seems to be quick, really quick, in good lighting. Though, in low-light, it doesn't lock on the focus point and often defaults to the larger area (seems to be equivalent to a focus "guess"). My D7100 can focus in near black comparatively.
If anyone has any suggestions for any of the above mentioned items please feel free...
thank you for the informationThat's true of those cameras, but with the 1.2 firmware the a6000 does finally use the focus assist light properly. I did some tests last night and confirmed that it's worth turning on again.I found with both my next-5 and my NEX-7 that if you turn off the focus assist light it will actually stop defaulting to the larger focus "guess" area and actually focus much better in low lightFocus seems to be quick, really quick, in good lighting. Though, in low-light, it doesn't lock on the focus point and often defaults to the larger area (seems to be equivalent to a focus "guess"). My D7100 can focus in near black comparatively.
If anyone has any suggestions for any of the above mentioned items please feel free...
After reading this I went to buy C1 Pro but it only supports Sony cameras. To get the full pro it's 269.00. Too bad, it would have been a steal at 50 bucks!Sony has a contract with C1 that will get you a free copy of the software (not a trial) and reduces the price for the PRO upgrade (i.e. full suite) for $30, or 90% off. The free version is totally adequate. It's the best raw converter I've used for the a6000.
No connection to C1. I wasn't quite happy with the a6000 until I found a converter that could handle the files well. I had to spend far too much time working color balance on every frame with LR, for example.
I guess in a pinch you can do this to improve the AF performance. But otherwise I would leave this on all the time. A mirrorless advantage is the fact you can see on your EVF/LCD your image effects live.Turning off the Settings Effect will leave the lens at its largest aperture until the shutter is activated allowing more light into the camera for AF. This is also how DSLRs work. The EVF just gives extra functionality where having the lens stop down allows showing the image in the EVF, or on the LCD, as it would be captured. In low light though, this functionality gets in the way, and needs to be turned off.
Thank you
Russell
interesting, how do you place the black tape?Eyepiece viewfinder sensor is overly sensitive. Can be fixed with black tape.
No offense taken but, I think you're probably making some assumptions that aren't quite right. However, either way, there's many low-light scenarios that one needs to focus in near darkness to setup a shot and where using a "slow" lens is the right lens to use. Think landscape/nightscape, tripod, long exposure, large dof, ...no offense but i dont think 16-50 f3.5-5.6 is the lens to discuss about low light. perhaps you should try those f1.8 to see if the low light performance is acceptable.
dslr can focus in near dark? but what is there to focus if you cant see anything?
I believe it's placed over the left hand side of the sensor. Do a search for "Lightdims" (it's a product of tape to hide bright LEDs on electronics equipment) on the forum and you'll find the posts discussing it.interesting, how do you place the black tape?Eyepiece viewfinder sensor is overly sensitive. Can be fixed with black tape.
Two lenses I was eyeing for sure. Or maybe the Sigmas.As to manual lenses,etc. I found out it was worth setting up the camera as a manual machine able to toggle between manual and direct manual etc using that button on the top right of the screen, but it takes some getting used to. Its size is a huge advantage, and its AF speed easily good enough for most things. You'll find if you have a good 16-50mm that its very good between 22ish and 38ish.
If you read the photozone NEX reviews of lenses on the NEX7, you'll see that the Sony 50mm f1.8OSS portrait lens is good. Mine is really very good indeed and I am quite happy with my 30mm f2.8 Sigma too.
I just did a video test for 20 mins. The camera did feel warm afterwards but it wasn't doing anything other than sitting on a tripod pointed out the window. I did crank up the quality to 60p 28mbps. So far, so good there. Though I'll probably test it again. One of the draws here is the photo and video capabilities in one camera, but not if the video causes it to overheat and shutdown.I now have them on a Nex 6 as my Nex7 had to go back as it overheated and drained the new battery in between 2 and 8 minutes shooting video, so its well worth really using everything and making very sure its worth investing in. They are temperamental toys compared even to present day Nikons.
I choke on $1k lenses so it wasn't really in the running. I've been kinda eyeing the 18-105mm lens but it's another power zoom. Not too keen on the power zoom.That little zoom is great for most things. I rarely use anything else. and you will see from the recent Photozone review that the Zeiss 16-70mm f4 is junk. It is dreadful, so paying out another £800 (!!!) will get you nowhere.
I'm still hoping for a 16-50 f/2.8 zoom for Sony E-mount. Time will tell if one gets produced. That and a decent telephoto zoom to ~300mm or even 400mm would be nice. Sigh, one can hope...The 18-55mm I had was very good. The Sony 50mm Sigma 60mm f2.8 and 30mm f2.8 are IMHO the only useable lenses on this Sony stuff , but were I wanting to improve and not mind the slowness or the bulk I would an adaptor buy for that 16-50mm f2.8 A mount lens, and with that having what I use would become pointless....
Coming away from Hasselblad this stuff is cheap. And you do get what you pay for.. nonetheless while the 24-70 f4 "works" for what I need it for, it is silly the distortion pre-Lightroom treatment.I choke on $1k lenses so it wasn't really in the running. I've been kinda eyeing the 18-105mm lens but it's another power zoom. Not too keen on the power zoom